Messages

Whether one chooses to purchase or 3D print a set of the new rubber feet, I believe in hindsight he will wish he had acquired at least a second set. Tormek likes the word "multi", and this is definitely a multi use accessory. In addition to the original use, tilting the machine to lessen spillage, and the close second use as a spacer to keep the shaft in place when the grinding wheel is removed, other uses are primarily limited by imagination.

Placed on the RB-180, all of "the woodworking machines" are conveniently tilted.

Placed on the vertical bars of the support bar, they make a handy preset stop. This is especially useful for those of us with multiple support bars.

These will be very useful, versatile accessories. Please share other uses you discover.

Ken

Tormek switched from the straight stainless shaft to the EZYlock soon after I purchased my T7. My original shaft worked fine. However, being a Tormek junkie, I wanted to have my T7 equipped with the latest and greatest.

Installing the EZYlock shaft was a valuable learning experience. I observed that the Tormek is essentially a very simple machine. If I had to, I could replace most of the parts at my local hardware store.Tormek used "off the shelf" parts wherever possible and put the cost where it really counted. The machining of the shaft is excellent, asis the design engineering.

Like Rich, I think the new rubber feet are clever and versatile. I also agree that posting the 3D printing file is outstanding PR for the users.

Ken

Michael,

I believe you have made a wise decision. Before you purchase a backup T2 or T4 for possible heavy duty repairs, I would purchase an insulated coffee mug. The 600 grit diamond wheel may not be a speed demon for repairs; however, how many and how often will you need to do repair work? A good cup of coffee will make the extra sharpening minutes more pleasant. Not being quick for a particular task is certainly not the same thing as not being able to do it.

I think grit numbers are overemphasized. Diamond crystals are very hard and very sharp. As you become more familiar with your T1, I believe you will find it increasingly versatile. Hopefully experience and frequent honing will speed your sharpening time.

I am sure many who follow this forum will have questions to yours. Please share your "from the trenches" thoughts.

Ken

John,

At $6 US, instead of your wallet, I think a change purse would suffice.

Mike,

You are correct in thinking that the new rubber feet may have little value for you. However; like automatic transmission and power steering in a vehicle, they are a step forward. I believe many users, myself included, will find them useful. I learned a couple new uses from Wolfgang's tips during the class.

Ken

Interesting topic. I happen to have both a T2 and a T1, as well as a T4. I think which is a better choice depends largely on how many knives are sharpened and how often.

A very dull or damaged knife will be sharpened more quickly with the DC-200 diamond wheel. How many working knives do you have in your kitchen? I would guess four knives do most of the work in most home kitchens. Diamond wheels cut efficiently. While the initial sharpening may take longer, restoring an edge regularly should go quickly, even with the Df-200. The original plan for the T2 was for just the DF-200. One of the large Swedish restaurants requested an optional coarser wheel.

I believe either model would be a good choice. Both have the identical composite honing wheel and knife setting jig. Sharpening your knives two or three times a year, using them carefully, and honing frequently, the diamond wheel on either will last many years. Careful use includes light grinding pressure.

Which one would I choose when the time comes to pare down? It will probably depend mostly on how much room I have in my kitchen. I also happen to already have all three grit wheels and a traditional multigrit sharpening background. It will be a difficult decision.

Ken

I have two questions for those of us wanting to sharpen serrated knives with a Tormek.

First question: How many serrated knives do you realistically plan to sharpen, both in number and in frequency? Related to this is how much revenue is projected?

In my own case, I only occasionally sharpen my Henckels bread knife. A wooden dowel wrapped with wet and dry abrasive paper does a very adequate job at low cost. Time is not excessive.

My second question is really a concern for the basic Tormek philosophy of sharpening. Are these six inch CBN wheels going to be used with anticorrosion solution and only remove minimum metal? For me, "the burden of proof" is on the wheels and their use.

Ken

Welcome to the forum, Hugh.

Let me take two guesses, hopefully favoring the scientific portion of SWAG (Scientific Wild Ass Guesses).

First: When you use the Anglemaster, is the angle pointer positioned so that the bottom touches the grinding wheel?

Second: Since the 5° error seems consistent, especially since these are school machines, is it possible that your pointers may be worn. We have had a few posts where these are the problem. I suspect that this wear occurs from measuring while the machine is still running, but that's just a guess.

Third, I would suggest that you email support (support@tormek.com) The two pointers are both available as replacement parts. I do not speak for Tormek; however, I would not be at all surprised if Tormek gifted you the spare parts. Support is very experienced and dedicated.

Please keep us posted.

Ken

Well stated, Rick.

Ken

Alston,

I remember when Wootz of KnifeGrinders introduced this video. It caused a lot of interest on the forum. Some of us used metal sleeves. Some of us made sleeves using painter's tape. I used plastic pipe. All of these did in fact raise the speed of the grinding wheel.

I have not seen posts recently promoting the speed acceleraters!. I suspect they have proved a flash in the pan and fallen into disuse. If you want to try using one, other third party vendors may still sell them. They are not expensive. (Knife Grinders closed after the death of the owner.) Making one of painter's tape is cheap and easy.

My personal opinion is that the Tormek engineers could easily have increased the speed IF they felt it was beneficial. They chose not to do so; therefore I have stayed with their preferred speed.

Regarding using CBN wheels dry, this is how they are designed AND to be used this way with high speed dry grinders. I first investigated them before Tormek introduced diamond wheels. At the time, all of the CBN instructional videos used high speed dry grinders with turning tools. One vendor voided the warranty if the wheels were used wet. In fairness, the problem was due to careless use, rather than the wheels themselves. CBN wheels, like any grinding wheels, should not be left in water when not in use. My original CBN wheels were steel. Used in plain water, they rusted quickly. When I added Honerite Gold, I no longer had the rust problem.

Ken

Welcome to the forum, Johann. My thoughts will probably differ from many on the forum. Please note that I am not saying that other thoughts are wrong, just that mine differ.

I think relying entirely on grit size is an oversimplification. Over the years, I have heard several grit numbers for PA-70. I have also noticed that the 360 grit DC diamond wheels cut faster than the 220 grit SG wheels. I have no special training in abrasives; I am just basing this on my observations.

Here is my suggestion to answer your question: Sharpen two chisels around 3/4" width. The two sizes don't have to be identical, as long as they are close. The backs don't even have to be polished for this test. Go through your normal sharpening sequence:
1) SG graded coarse.
2) SG graded fine (do not skip this step)
3) SJ

I suggest using two chisels because the large bevels are very visible. Add using the leather honing wheel with PA-70 to one chisel. Compare the scratch patterns of the two chisels.

Continue with sharpening using the leather honing wheel and PA-70 on half the tools. You will answer your own question.

Keep us posted.

Ken

Like Rich, I have an AX-40. It looks very impressive, although, not having an ax or hatchet, I have not used it yet. It is certainly leagues more advanced than the original jig, which was the longest lasting of the original Tormek jigs.

I would point out that it doesn't work withdouble bit axes or half hatchets (with hammer heads).With these two exceptions, it is a very flexible jig and holds the axes quite securely.

Ken

I received an email from my longtime friend, forum member Grepper, informing me that our friend, Mike Brubacher, had passed away. Mike was the inventor of the Edge on Up testers and the BESS system. He was a smart and good hearted guy. Grepper knew him better than I did, so I will post Grepper's notice from the Bessex group
(the forum for BESS users):

"It is with a heavy heart I say that Mike Brubacher passed away last night, 2025/01/30, about 11:00 pm.

For those of you who don't know, Mike invented our edge sharpness testing instruments, the PT50 series, Edge Lab, the BESS (Brubacher Edge Sharpness Scale), was the founder of Edge On Up and changed the world of edge sharpness testing.  A truly amazing man.  Thank you Mike!

Temperature used to be described with words like "chilly" or "freezing" or whatever.  In the 1600's European physicist Daniel Gabriel Fahrenheit gave the world a way to measure temperature and describe it to others in numerical degrees.  Now we can say it's 34° F. 
 
Before Mike, sharpness was described as "scary sharp", "razor sharp", etc.  Mike gave the world the ability to share exactly how sharp an edge is and affordable equipment to test it.  Instead of "shaving sharp", thanks to Mike, now we can say the edge is BESS 134 and everyone world wide can know exactly what that means.

The ability to communicate edge sharpness is revolutionary, changed the sharpening world, and we all have Mike Brubacher to thank for it.  He was an amazing man.

On a personal note, Mike and I were close friends.  I already miss being able to share life moments and thoughts with him.  I feel so lucky our life paths crossed."

Ken

Bravo, Dad and Daughter!!!!

Ken

Welcome to the forum, Michael.

I suggest that you email support. (support@tormek.se) for your parts request.

A small tube of white lithium grease works very well for the shaft.

Ken

Jan Svancara was one of the brightest stars on this forum. He shone in so many aspects of sharpening.

My first memory of Jan were his restoration of his grandfather's ancient mortising chisel. His love and respect for his grandfather resonated with me. While honoring his past, Jan was also forward looking. He was a professor of engineering in his native Czech Republic. He took great joy in tutoring his thirteen year old granddaughter in physics. As part of her learning program, she regularly followed this forum.

Always wanting to broaden his mind, Jan studied with an English language tutor. He balanced this with sharing some of his Czech heritage on the forum. He could balance his highly trained engineering mind with well grounded practicality. I felt honored when he saw the value in my kenjig (based on Dutchman's tables). One of Jan's favorite sayings was "Iron sharpens iron; one man sharpens another". Jan was an early believer in the kenjig. He adopted my 139mm Projection into his knife sharpening technique. Jan's vote of confidence and his improvements made me a sharper man and the kenjig sharper.

When Jan passed away, he left us with his many posts. Those of us who are innovative would do well from studying his posts. Jan often used a building set similar to an Erector set to construct his ideas. Among them was a very solid drill bit jig.

Jan was a good man; I miss him.

Ken