Messages

Hi, Herman. I am glad you posted. I assume your "homemade jig" is the famous "Herman's Homemade Small Platform" so familiar to the oldtime members of this forum. Sadly, your homemade jig may not be familiar to many of our newer members.

The Tormek SVD-110 is very useful for supporting larger tools. Its Achilles Heel is its width. It is too wide to allow grinding the full length of both bevels of a knife. You corrected this problem by making a narrow platform no wider than the grinding wheel. Your homemade jig is accurate, repeatable, and fast. It is even better because it utilizes A Tormek made platform with the Tormek patented Torlock.
I have made several, which do not work as well as yours. I also have two (one sized for the T4 and a larger one sized for the T7/8) made and given to me by a friend, which work very well. I believe any well equipped knife sharpener who does not have a Herman's Homemade Small Platform has handicapped himself.

Ken

Rob,

Yes, Bob really is your uncle. . . .

As much as I like and respect the very skilled Tormek staff, it is reallythe Robs and Kens (and their wallets) which keep the whole ball of wax going. I do find the T1 easy to use. Yes, the target market is home cooks who are untrained in sharpening. In my opinion, they have fulfilled that goal very well. I also feel that they have done a good job a good job of catering to a different market, The Samuels, Robs and Kens who have years of experience and a T7/8 in the workshop. The T1, like the T2, offers quick and accurate setup. No water or honing paste is needed and he knife holding ig couldn't be easier to set. Yes, we might occasionally want to do major repair work on a damaged knife That's the domain of the Big T we have in the shop. With the T1, we can have the knife sharpened and/or honed bofore the Big T is set up.

The T1's diamond wheel isjust the ticket or Global knives.

The composite wheel is nothing new.I think Tormek actually had them briefly years ago. I have had a et of three "rust erasers" for decades which have served me very well.

As with any tool,a little practice helps.

Ken

John,
Is the T2 available in Australia?
Ken

Hi, Rob.

Welcome back. It is good to hear from you; you have been missed. While you were missing, your Uncle Bob has been busy. In fact, he was mentioned in the Agatha Christie Death on the Nile episode my wife and I watched this morning.

I happen to have a T1. I like it; I think you would, too. It is a specialty machine designed for the serious home cook. Instead of just my occasional user thoughts, I think Samuel Stenhem does a much better job of describing it in this Tormek online class. I met Samuel during my week long visit to Tormek last August. We had several opportunities for in depth one on one conversations. In addition to being a good guy, Samuel is the CEO of Tormek and uses his T1 daily in his home kitchen. Here is a link to the video:

https://www.youtube.com/live/nqD0cefN0yU?si=pA1zYPBFWIeORWAA

Don't be a stranger, Rob. You are a friend and part of this family.

Ken

THe felt wheel Vadim (RIP) used was produced by the chinese company Ningbo Purui Polishing Company.

https://www.puruipolishing.com/product/10-inch-rock-hard-felt-wheel/

Regards,
Drilon

The second dimension listed (45mm) is correct forthe felt wheel Vadim sold. The original felt wheels he ordered were 50mm thick. This did not allow for the inset in the outside of the wheel. I ordered on of the first felt wheels he sold. To Vadim's credit, once he realized the mistake in size, he reordered the correct size.

Ken

First: what are CBN grinding wheels?

Second: I read that diamond grinding wheels can also be used dry, but how long do they last? With water, approximately, how many sharpenings can they withstand?

Third: is there a coarser grinding wheel (stone or diamond) that allows you to make the first roughing (especially when the blade is very damaged) and allow the finer ones to last longer?

CBN (Cubic Boron Nitride) wheels are made of CBN, the second hardest material.Only diamond is harder. Both diamond and CBN wheels are considered superabrasives and generally. ut faster and harder steel than conventionalgrinding wheels. While not identical, they can usually be used interchangeably. Tormek recommends startng with the SG grinding wheel.


In imy,opinion, neither diamond or CBN wheels should be used dry. In addition to keeping the toolsrust free, ACC solution prevents grinding dust, runs cooler, and keeps the grinding wheel much cleaner. How long weither diamond or CBN wheels last is largely determined by careful use (light pressure whn grinding).

The coarsest diamnd wheel is the DC-250. the coarsest regular wheel is the SB-250 blackstone. Neither of these wheels is designed for a fine, smooth cut. The finst cut diamond wheel is the DE-250. The finst cut regular wheel is the SJ-4000 Japanese wheel, followed by the SG-250 graded fine.

I suggest you check on the Tormek website (tormek.com). The xcellnt handbok is available ias a free download in sixteen different languages when you register your Tormek.

Keep us posted.

Ken

Thank you and have a good continuation of the evening.

This video shows an interesting combination grind for scandigrind carving knives:

https://youtu.be/2awkDNBT584?si=HV0H3RqOuEKk5pI8

Ken

1. File off those (pointless?) marks atop the edge of the jig

That mark is for centering a plane blade in order to apply a symetrical curve on the iron.

John is absolutely correct. Far from being pointless, the line on the front of the SE-77 is what allows centering the plane blade for balanced cambering. Controlled cambering is what separates a cabinetmaker from an average woodworker.

Those who do not understand cambering should just ignore the line, preserving it for the day when they do understand it.

Ken

Nick,

I like your idea of using laser engraving as a premium sharpening service. I can see the customer's name as being very popular. Somewhat related, for sharpeners who also have a knife rental service, I think being able to identify the rental knives with a laser engraved name would be very useful.

I do have reservations with engraving lines on a chisel, if they are part of a quick setup scheme. Multiple sharpenings will shorten the chisel, thus making the lines inaccurate. Bevel angles also seem iffy to me. If obtained from the knife manufacturer, are they chosen for best cutting or minimum customer complaints. I think I would rather rely on the sharpener's experience.

I do think name engraving is an excellent idea, both for providing an extra customer service and enhanced revenue.

Ken

I have wondered why my bench stone sharpening results were not first class. Being a lefty, I have been handicapped by using right handed stones.

When will Tormek offer left handed grinding wheels?   

Ken April 1, 2024

Rich,
You would like Leonard Lee's advice on sharpening drill bits. For most users, he recommended buying quality US made hss bits.
Ken

I am curious, not critical. Are you guys using your diamond wheels with the recommended ACC solution or dry?

 In the T1 online class, Samuel recommends using acetone to clean the T1 wheel, which can only be used dry. In an email with support, they told me that ACC in addition to preventing rust also forms a surface on the wheel to keep it clean. Also, that air drying helps to preserve this cleaning, rust preventative surface.

Ken

You can set the bevel angle with either the Distance from the grinding wheel to the support bar OR the Projection. Usually with chisels we control the setting by changing the Distance with the Microadjust.

Using my method with the TTS-100 automates both of these settings. Using the hole in the TTS-100 standardizes the Distance setting. The two metal wheels automatically compensate for differences in grinding wheel diameter.

Marking one of the slots in the TTS-100 for 25° Projection (or whatever angle you desire) is just a convenient way to do this. As you note, there are other easy ways to do this. Wooden stop blocks are a typical choice which work well.

Try it. Set the Distance using the TTS-100. If you prefer, use a stop block to set the Projection. You may have to do some trial and error fine tuning for the initial chisel. After that, everything is automated.


Ken

For several years, I enjoyed corresponding with our member, Wootz (Vadim Kriachuk of Knifegrinders). I considered him a friend and admired his dedicated research in pushing back the frontiers of sharpening. I especially appreciated the respect he showed Tormek, even though his evolving technique often differed from traditional Tormek technique. Here is a link to my favorite video he made. It shows the achievable BESS score using only traditional Tormek equipment and technique.

https://youtu.be/UckPmizllk0?si=hPCKmdPqOotI2X39

Ken

PS I agree with 3DAnvil about the effect of edge angle.

You are correct; the manual only shows the TTS-100 for turning gouges. That is unfortunate, as the TTS-100 has several more uses. My suggestion is based on my actual working method for more than ten years. Try it; you will find it works well. No marking is needed beyond the one initial mark, done only once. The patented two metal wheels automatically correct for wheel wear. Used this way, the angles are accurate and consistent.

I don'tknow why Tormek does not show other uses for the TTS-100.

Ken