Messages

Alston,

The Tormek is an evolving system. It was originally designed by Torgny Jansson to sharpen his father's woodworking tools. Even the knife sharpening jigs are evolving. Some of these evolutionary changes originated by Tormek. Some have originated by our forum members. We will see more changes in knife jigs in the future.

Welcome to the innovators.

Ken

Lars,

One of the bedrock principles of Tormek is none obsolescence of older models. Support will give you an honest answer of whether or not your 1200 is worth repairing or not. I know the head of support personally. He is a good guy; I have full confidence in him. He has worked for Tormek since long before the 1200, and may have actually worked on the group which built your machine.

Email support. (support@tormek.se)

Ken

Welcome to the forum, Evan. I think you were wise to purchase a new leather honing wheel. The learning processis easier when all your equipmant is fully functional.

I suggest you set your damaged leather honing wheel aside until you master basic sharpening. At that point, you can look at your wheel with some experience. Gently sand the cut areas of your leather wheel. Apply a little light machine oil and then a little PA-70. Start with a practice/learning tool. A bench chisel something between 1/2" and 3/4" is right for this. Don't worry if you don't have a square edge jig, just move your support bar close to your grinding wheel and rest your chisel on it. Make sure your support bar is in the horizontal, motor in the moving away from the blade direction. Start with light grinding pressure. Your Tormek will telegraph the results to you.

If your results are good, you Re in luck. If not, I would set the wheel aside for a future repair.

Please keep us posted.

Ken

Lars,

Some of the 1200s had overheating problems which caused the openings to melt. I highly recommend that you email the closeup photo to Tormek support (support@tormek.se).
Please post your reply. We are curious.

Ken

Colin,

I wish all Tormek owners were as fastidious as you are. If so, We would not have the rusted shaft problems.

Ken

Greggy,

We receive posts occasionally about the T2000. Yours is a little different than most, but not entirely different. Many involve ashaft and grinding wheel rusted together. This is usually due to the grinding wheel being left in the trough with water still in it. Most of these shafts are pre 2006, when Tormek switched to stainless steel. Also, I wonder how many of these stuck shafts received the recommended annual removal and regreasing.

Many of the T2000 posts are from potential buyers wishing to spend less than the costof a new Tormek. Saving money is great; however, the cost of a new TTS-50 Truing Tool and US-105 Support Bar with Microadjust, both essentials, will lower  that money gap considerably. If rusted shaft and grinding wheel must be replaced, the savings evaporate quickly.

Someone like you, with some Tormek experience and knowledge of the care of the machine is most likely ahead of the game, as is someone fortunate enough to have a family member or friend with some Tormek experience.

I usually recommend going new for someone without prior knowledge or the good luck to have expert help. Tormek's eight year warrantee is a substantial risk reducer.

Greggy, I recommend you acquire an up to date TT-50 Truing Tool and US-105 Support Bar. Anything else can be acquired as needed.

Keep us posted.

Ken

Greggy,

I totally support your decision to spend some time on youtube learningabout using the Tormek. In my opinion, you will maximize the value of thattime by focusing on the Tormek online classes. I do not say this as a marketing ploy for Tormek. These classes did not exist for most of the years I have used my Tormek. My learning process would have been much easier with them. Too many youtubes are biased by vendors trying to sell their own products or by alack ofunderstanding about the Tormek. Also, you do not need to hear grumbling that Tormek products are "too expensive". Prices are what they are; you can make up uour mind.

I am not saying to never watch non Tormek videos; I am advising you to concentrate first on learning the basic Tormek philosophy and technique. Once you have that solid footing, you will be able to intelligently branch out if you wish.

Regarding the redesigned jigs, I have reviewed them for the forum. I would divide them into two groups. Most of them, if I was buying them for the first time, I would choose the newer design. However, if I already hadthe older design, I would be reluctant to spend the money to upgrade. The second group is typified by the SVD-186 (now R). For an active woodturner, the new jig, in my opinion, was a no brainer. The older SVD-185 was still as good as ever. The new design is substantially better, enough to deserve an upgrade.

Evaluate your present jigs carefully. You may want to replace a very few soon and most eventually, if needed. For the present, increased knowledge will serve you best.

Keep us posted,

Ken   

Alston,

Your knife jig looks interesting. Would you please share more information about it?

When I designed the kenjig many years ago, my design goal was to be able to set a common Projection with all knives ranging from paring knives through chef's knives. My thinking was that by using three pre set jigs all to this common Projection, a common Distance from the grinding wheel to the support bar would not have to be reset. Minor differences in Projection could be adjusted by how deeply the knife was set in the jig.

The constraint was that starting in 1992, the SVM jigs had shorter shafts and the common Projection wiuld not work. My work around was to purchase three pre 1992 jigs on ebay. That solved the problem for me, but was not practical for others.

So, my question for you is, is your shaft long enough for for a common Projection for knives from paring to chef's?

Two other questions: Does your jig provide auto self centering? And, can a flatter stop be easily interchanged for straighter knives?

If you jig can handle these three questions, you will have truly advanced knife jigs. It would be the fastest set up available.

Ken

A number of our members have an electrical/engineering background much more advanced than mine. I appreciate that. My electrical background is generally limited to installing and troubleshooting telephone voice and data circuits and self study in home wiring electricity.

I can read charts like Tormek's and understand why a 50 Hertz, 240 Volt motor in not compatable with 60 Hertz 120 Volt US commercial power. I also understand why a motor drawing 200 Watts requires more power than one drawing 120 Watts.

I can not understand the working of the posted formula, or why it is important. I would like to understand this. I believe I am not alone in this. I would humbly request replies going beyond just mouthing formulas. Please share your expertise by educating the rest of us and explaining the conceps involved and whythey are important

I once watched a marvelous VHS tape explaining Einstein's E=MC2. It gave the example of when a baseball is thrown at the speed of light squared, the baseball (matter) becomes Energy. for me, that was very informative. I would like to better understand the Tormek motors.

Ken

The thingiverse file is for a Tormek with 200 mm grinding wheel. The T2000 was a machine with a  250 mm wheel. It would be possible to redesign the file to fit the T2000. Frankly, just purchasing the AWD-250 I mentioned earlier seems like a much more practical choice.

Ken

Welcome to theforum, Derek.

I suggest you email support, (support@tormek.se).

Ken

Pete,

It may surprise you to learn that I actually agree with you on several points. Those of us who have followed my posts over the years will know that I have been an advocate of the T4 since it was first introduced. That stated, I have been an honest critic. I have never liked the way it has been marketed. I have never thought of it as a stripped down, less expensive version of the T8.

When it was introduced, the T4 was Tormek's most advanced model. It was a major redesign of the T3. The machined zinc top, later incorporated in the T8, allowed much greater accuracy than the Then flagship model, the T7. My comments over the years have run counter to the prevailing "more ecenomical, hobbiest" sales pitch. In my opinion, the T4 is a professional quality machine when properly equipped. I have equipped my T4 with a TT-50 truing Tool, and both the steel EZYlock and quick change nut listed as spare parts for the T7/8. The "thirty minute duty" myth should have been eliminated from the start. It never was a problem with the T4..

I believe the T4 should have only been sold with the truing tool. Initial truing is always good grinding practice, just as frequent flattening is for bench stones. The need for truing is not a criticism of Tormek quality; it is just part of grinding, just like oil changes are with vehicle engines.

Sadly, we live in a do it yourself world where customer training is regarded as an expense rather than a compensated part of customer service. A training session with a Tormek instructor would have solved your problems. The bump in your leather wheel is a one time, less than a minute fix with a scrap of sandpaper. Truing the grinding wheel requires a Truing tool, but is a skill quickly and easily mastered.
Getting a square grind is also not a difficult skill to learn.Tormek has made learning so much easier with the handbook and the online classes. I have lost track of how many times I have read the handbook and watched the classes. I learn more with each repetition.

Purchasing a Tormek is a lifetime investment. I hope you will not short circuit your Tormek experience by premature giving up. The learning curve is worth the effort.

Keep posting your questions; we have all been there.

Ken

Welcome to the forum, Pete. With a little courage and patience, your troubles will soon be in the past. Tormek has provided us with two valuable resources, the handbook and the online training classes on youtube. Your time studying these will be well rewarded.

The bump on the leather honing wheel joint is an easy fix. The leather used in the leather honing wheel is absolutely top quality. I remember an exhibit describing it when I visited Tormek in Sweden. Unfortunately, occasionally some of the glue needs a little sanding to be smooth. Thirty seconds sanding the joint lightly with medium grit sandpaper will end your problem.

The SE-77 is a versatile jig. It can grind plane irons with controlled camber. This versatility requires a little more skill. Use a black marker on your bevel. Run your Tormek for a couple seconds. Examine the bevel with a small square to check for squareness. Adjust the chisel if needed. Do not grind the entire bevel before verifying squareness.

Be sure to watch the online class with Stig. He demonstrates an effective procedure to check squareness. as I recall, it was about 24 minutes into the class.

At this point, what you need is education and experience. Tormek provides the education. After study, I suggest you work slowly and make one chisel ((3/4" is a good first width)sharp and square. Then, just build on that experience. You will succeed.

Keep us posted.

Ken

PS You are not alone. Forty years ago, I purchased my dream camera, a wooden 4x5 view camera. The outfit cost $1200. I was quite discouraged when I could not see to view or focus with it. With much persistence, I finally mastered it. It became my favorite camera.

Patience and persistence. . . .

Several years ago, one of our members posted a very practical solution to your problem.

Purchase a plastic turkey baster. These are inexpensive and can be found in grocery and cooking stores. Lower the water trough of your T8. Using your turkey baster, remove most of the water from your water trough. Dump this in a plastic container. Remove the sludge with a paper towel. Using another container with clean water, rinse your water trough. This will prevent the sludge from clogging your drain.

Ken

Welcome to the forum, Kodar.

My first thought is to recommend that you email support. (support@tormek.se)

Reading that you have very hard water, I would try usinf distilled water from the grocery store. It is not expensive. My water is not hard, so I have never had that problem.

Please post the reply from support. I am curious to learn what they recommend.

Ken