Messages

I received an email from Håkan Persson today. After seventeen years of service with Tormek, Håkan will be retiring as CEO of Tormek. Håkan is a highly respected expert with superabrasives (diamond and CBN). I am sure Håkan was the leader in Tormek moving from the traditional Super Grind wheel to a choice of six wheels, including three diamond wheels. Håkan worked with Sebastien during one of the online classes covering diamond wheels. Here is a link:

https://youtu.be/38c95D6z5D8

Fortunately, Håkan will remain a Senior Advisor with Tormek. All of his wealth of lifelong experience and expertise will not be lost. The day to day operations will be taken over by Samuel Stenhem, who has been Tormek's Marketing Director for the last five years. Here is a link to an online class he did with Sebastien covering the T1:

https://www.youtube.com/live/nqD0cefN0yU?feature=share

Samuel is a member of the T1 design team. I look forward to the future of Tormek with Samuel at the helm.

Ken

https://www.youtube.com/live/LQ3gcUhk29U?feature=share

Ken

You don't specify if you are using your diamond wheels with ACC solution or dry. The ACC solution will keep your wheels cleaner.

Here is a link to a Knife Grinders you tube describing a method of mounting two grinding wheels on your SuperGrind 2000. Please note that this method is not sanctioned by Tormek:

https://youtu.be/BAhgVmQoeiA

Ken

John,
Are you noticing any difference in how well your composite wheel "cuts" now?
Ken

Good question, John.

I asked a question about using water with the composite honing wheel during one of the online classes. Wolfgang stated that he never uses water; Sebastien stated that he prefers to use water. I'm in the uses water camp. I use a plastic container with water and a Scotch Brite pad. I like the smoother feel with the water. The Scotch Brite pad seems to keep the composite wheel clean, although I have no scientific proof of this.

Keep us posted.

Ken

I use the Viel belt grinder modified with a variable speed motor. I use the Viel articulated arm and the TAS (twice as sharp) scissors clamp with the soft grip. The TAS clamp and the Viel articulated arm require a custom machined adaptor.

This rig works very well. However, it costs around the price of a T8. The Tormek scissors jig also works well and only costs a small fraction of the price of my Viel rig and the platform can do double duty as the base for a homemade small platform.

The real reason why Tormek does not make things like the articulated arm in the photo is that it cannot protect its investment with a patent. Most companies require the protection of a patent before investing in the expense of developing and tooling a new product.

Ken

When I started with my Tormek in 2009, the handbook and Jeff Farris' videos were our primary learning sources. Here is a link to Jeff's video on sharpening scissors:

https://youtu.be/HGFeBd8ZspM

Note his short cut for setting the bevel angle. Instead of trying to measure the very small scissors bevel with the Anglemaster, Jeff adds ten degrees and uses the broad surface of the jig platform as a reference for measurement.

For those concerned with the hollow grind of the Tormek grinding wheel, Ernie Conover suggests adding three degrees to the Anglemaster setting.

If an error of half the taper of the knife blade is troublesome, why not just correct the Anglemaster setting by two degrees? This should put the bevel angle within tolerance. If this is not close enough, dial in a more exact number.

I would probably use a kenjig or one of the computer apps; however, the Anglemaster can be dialed in for tighter accuracy if desired.

Ken

For a clue about what may possibly be coming, study history:

https://www2.canadianwoodworking.com/tools/tormek-turns-40-unveils-sharpener

Ken

Bas,

I would suggest that you send your photos in an email to Tormek support.
(support@tormek.se).

Ken

I wish I had this information before I ruined all those knives.

I don't quite understand. I have seen pro and con thoughts about the Anglemaster. I like it for broader, flat tools like chisel backs and plane blades. I have mixed thoughts about using it with knives, although I have seen two Tormek masters use it quite adeptly with knives.

I can't quite see how using an Anglemaster would have "ruined all those knives".
If one knife was not turning out as expected, why would one proceed with other knives before correcting the situation?

I do not intend to sound critical. I have made many errors and only hope to spare others some of my numerous pitfalls.

Ken

Perra,

I think you have designed an innovative, useful tool. The question comes up with every tool design, Do we design for general purpose or to excel for one task?

I would rather have a tool designed to excel at one task. If I neededa similar tool for any of the other mentioned jigs, I would prefer to have a second tool specifically designed for that task.

Ken

Interesting tool, Perra. I look forward to learning more about it.

Ken

Welcome to the forum,Jess.

This is the part you need:

https://advanced-machinery.myshopify.com/products/68-ezylock-for-msk-250-shaft

Any authorized Tormek dealer should be able to order it for you; however, Advanced Machinery will have it in stock. I remove my grinding wheels frequently, and swapped the plastic nut for the steel nut which comes with the T8. The left hand thread is the same.
While you are ordering, I would also order the locking knob for the honing wheel. (This is also standard with the T8, but is the same thread.) This was originally called the "quick connect". Hereis a link:

https://advanced-machinery.myshopify.com/products/50-locking-knob-for-honing-wheel

I have happily used these two upgrades with my T4 for many years. It's a great machine, and better with these two upgrades.

Ken

Welcome to the forum, BW.

I would carefully use your TT-50 truing tool. Take very light cuts, just a fraction of a number on the microadjust nut. (If your support bar predates the threaded microadjust nut, just adjust very carefully. A new threaded microadjust US-105 universal support bar would be a useful addition to your want list.)

Once you have your grinding wheel cleared, use the coarse edge of your stone grader to create a slight radius on both corners of your grinding wheel. Incidentally, worst case scenario, the diamond cluster of the TT-50 is available as a spare part and very easy to install. The cost is about a third the cost of a new grinding wheel. This is for information only; I doubt you will need this.

Good luck and keep us posted. I would leave your SVD-110 as is to remind you to be careful. I speak from experience. My former workshop was the garage of a house with no basement. It was overstuffed with junk. One day I lost my balance and my eyeglasses hit the concrete floor. I left the slightly abraded frame as is as a reminder to be careful.

Welcome to the club......

Ken

PS I am emailing Sebastien and Wolfgang suggesting they include how to clean aluminum from the grinding wheel is an upcoming video. If, by chance, you have not watched Tormek's online class videos, I recommend them highly.

Good point, 3D.

Ken