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Topics - Ken S

Wood Turning / bowl gouge question
Yesterday at 03:33:52 PM
This came in from a new member and somehow,the message got confused in the pixels.
Advice from you turners wouls be appreciated.
Thanks, Ken

link=msg=40834 date=1719079141]
Sorry if this has been asked, many times, before! I have a bowl gouge with a 30 degree bevel (it's def a BG!) I will re-grind most probably very soon but for now, how do I set the jig on my T8 to sharpen this, please? Does not appear to be a setting for this. I presume I cannot treat it as a spindle gouge?

Knife Sharpening / sea changes
June 17, 2024, 05:07:07 PM

 There is an English language expression, "sea change", meaning "a profound or notable transformation" (source: Oxford Dictionary).

One comment during the online class 24 about the KS-123 was that the more jigs which were added, the slower Tormek sharpening became. While there is an element of truth in this, the complete picture is that these more advanced jigs also make the sharpening more accurate. Not many Tormek sharpeners want to refurn to just freehand sharpening and honing.
Of the present ongoing sea changes, the first seems to be the US-430, an evolution of the out of production US-400 support bar. At the request of a group of Tormek owners lead by Tormek dealer, Steve Bottorff, Tormek agreed to making a limited run of the US-400. I was proud to have been a part of that group. This limited run sold out quickly. I was also at least one of those who suggested that Tormek extend the two side legs, which created the present US-430. A useful tool was added to the Tormek system. (It should be noted that the US-430 is really for long knives only.)

For years, we grumbled about the SVM jigs not being automatically self centering. Tormek corrected this with the introduction of the KJ knife jigs. This seems an ongoing change, as a number of us are still not content with the reduced adjustability of the KJ. However, the KJ jigs do provide self centering at very reasonable cost.

The new KS-123 is a major step forward. In my opinion, the Tormek Design Committee really nailed the issue of using the Amglemaster with knives. We can now reserve the Anglemaster, a fine tool, for its intended purpose, flat chisels and plane irons.

Related to the KS-123 change is an even bigger sea change. Tormek has tradionally recommended freehand honing. Withlonger knives, jig honing did not work because of clearance problems with the jig and the plastic locking knobs. Pioneered by late forum member, Wootz, of Knife Grinders, many of us purchased third party Frontal Vertical Bases, which solved the clearance problem. This clever solution, just adding two holes to the MB-100, offered two functions for about the same cost as either of the two jigs. I do not believe Tormek has or will completely abandon freehand honing, although their recent comments seem to have warmed considerably to it.
When I first started using my T7 in 2009, I felt that certain areas of sharpening had advanced more with Tormek. I felt that knife sharpening was not the most area. With recent changes, I no longer feel that way. "Sharpening Innovations" is a good description of Tormek.


One of my very few disagreements with the online classes is about replacement "transport spacers" This little spacer keeps the shaft aligned when the grinding wheel is removed. Unfortunately, it is frequently lost or discarded. When viewers question how to get a replacement, they are told to make one out of wood or similar materials. I think this is poor advice. Yes, I have made several out of plastic water pipe; however, I have a drill press. Complaints to Tormek and a prominent parts dealer went nowhere.

Last August, during my visit to Tormek, I had the good fortune to meet John and Darren Of Sharpening Supplies. I shared my complaint with them. They told me they would look into it. To my surprise, the spacer was listed on their website, along with several other hard to find parts. I immediately ordered one. Darren emailed me to let me know that my order would be complimentary, a nice touch.

Two bits of advice:

First, for those who still have their spacer, mark it "SAVE" with a Sharpie.

Second, make a note to include a couple with your next Sharpening Supplies order.

The spacers themselves are very inexpensive; it's shipping which drives up the cost. Combining them with other products softens the shipping cost.

Knife Sharpening / Thoughts on the KS-123 class
June 05, 2024, 02:28:56 PM

I have been working with Dutchman's Grinding Angle tables for more than ten years. Even without an extensive math background, "Projection", Distance", "Bevel Angle", and "Changes in wheel diameter" have become comfortable old friends. I have Dutchman's tables downloaded on my ipad and printed copies scattered throughout my house.

I will readily admit that my kenjig has been completely outgunned by the KS-123 and that it will soon become mostly a relic. Both operate on the same theory; however, the KS-123 is far more sophisticated.

I had the rare opportunity of being in a discussion group with both Per and Håkan, independent designers of very similar jigs. Håkan kindly presented with a prototype jig.

Without the benefit of instructions or an online class, I had some initial difficulties understanding the KS-123; however these were soon surpassed. The online class greatly shortens the learning curve.

One concept which has been mentioned in several classes, but never fully explained is the concept of loading. Woodworkers encounter this all the time with hand plane depth adjustment screws. The same is true with adjusting wheels in machine shops. For precise adjustment, one should always  try to move the screw  ( with the Tormek that means moving the microadjust upward. This eliminates the "slop" . Either direction will get the job done; eliminating the slop just is a little better.

I will not be discarding my Anglemaster. I will move it from my knife jig to my square edge tools, where it was originally designed to be used. It functions very well with chisels and plane blades, especially with good light.


PS The most pleasant surprise with the KS-123 was the price. Having worked with a prototype, I honestly expected the price to be double the $50 US. And, instead of my present nine knife jigs, I could do the job with only one KJ-45 (possibly adding a KJ-140 if I ever purchase a long , thin filleting knife, which is doubtful).
An interesting way of precisely sharpening spokeshave blades:

The late David Charlesworth was a superb woodworker. This is the best demonstration of cambering with the SE-77 that I have found.

Tormek T-1 and T-2 / Well done T2 video
June 01, 2024, 05:39:45 PM
This video is by Darryl Hughes of Affinity Cuiinary, the former US importer. I met Darryl years ago and remember him as a likable guy. Judging from this video, he has also become quite knowledgeable, also. The video is focused on professional chefs, the target market for the T2. It is obviously a marketing video, but well done. here is a link:

Tormek T-1 and T-2 / revisiting a firestorm
May 28, 2024, 03:16:30 PM
I inadvertantly caused a firestorm when I posted my idea that I thought a knife only side job sharpener might be better served with a T2 instead of a T4 or T8 as his main machine. Without any evil intentions, I apparently dishonored a sacred cow.

I respect the critical replies. They are based on good, solid Tormek experience. However; I don't always agree with them. A primary criticism was that the T2 can only sharpen kitchen knives. (To be fair, as a specialty machine, it is specifically designed for chefs to maintain their knives.) As an old hand with sharpening chisels and plane irons going back to oilstones, fine tooth mill files, and sandpaper on glass, I am quite sure I could sharpen chisels and plane irons with my T2. I freely admit that the T2 is no match for a T4 or T8 with these tools. How often do chefs sharpen woodworking tools?

Most youtube videos show a knife being thoroughly abused before being sharpened. Although the T2 survives this cruel and unusual punishment, how often do we see a good chef actually abuse his knives, the tools of his trade, like this? Yes, the T2 is really designed for knives to be regularly maintained. Why would a top professional want it otherwise?

"Only knives"? Not so. The two Tormek videos demonstrate sharpening other tools which are part of every kitchen such as food processor blades and rotary blades. Especially with food processor blades, I don't know of any other jig controlled method of sharpening these.

The more recent video (Johan and Hugo) includes some things not in the first video. The wheels used originally used were DWF, as opposed to the more recent DF with side diamonds. I reduced a bolster with my DWF, although the newer DF does this more conveniently using the side of the wheel. The newer video also shows some user modifications to expand the range of the jig.

I believe through field use the T2 is evolving into an even more useful machine. I leave it to the reader to decide if he wants to include it in his sharpening kit.

Knife Sharpening / ceramic knives with the S G
May 28, 2024, 04:55:10 AM
This surprised me. Thoughts?


Tormek T-1 and T-2 / T2 "202" video
May 25, 2024, 01:28:20 PM
The T2 Online Class is well done and informative. This video goes beyond it, adding the experience gained from more time in the field. It is located on the Tormek Culinary youtube channel and well worth watching. I recommend it not just for T2 users, but also for anyone who sharpens knives with a Tormek. Here is a link:

Tormek T-1 and T-2 / another good opinion
May 21, 2024, 04:25:35 AM
I enjoy Ukulele Jay's videos. In this video, he demonstrates how he skillfully uses his T1. His technique is not idetical to Tormek's. It is close and it is effective.


All of the demonstrations in the online classes show the honing compound being applied directly before honing. I can see the teaching value of doing this in sequence; however, it is not the most effective time to apply the compound.

The online classes mention that the honing compound works best when it is almost dry. I would suggest that it should be applied the first thing after the cover is removed to give it as much time as practical to dry.

Hand Tool Woodworking / "a small square"
April 19, 2024, 01:20:11 PM
Tormek makes a very nice small square. You get one "for free" if you purchare the Anniversary Black T8. Unfortunately, this small square is not yet available as a stand alone accessory. HOWEVER, there is a relatively inexpensive "plan B". Although the TTS-100 is primarily designed for setting woodturning tools, it can also work very well with vhisels and plane irons. It makes a very fast, accurate setting tool and a useful small. Wolfgang demonstrates this at 1:07:20 in this video:

Wolfgang demonstrates this with a skew chisel; however, many things in sharpening cross function.


PS The first time I sharpened a turning skew, I did not know the TTS-100/ small square trick. I assumed my skew angle matched the Tormek diagram. This "sharpening" turned into a lengthy reshaping project. A wiser plan would have been to draw the square line and set the skew angle to just a little closer to the recommended angle. After several sharpenings, I would have gradually matched the angle. A markedcollar with the third setting left blank initally would have tipped me off.
This video shows an interesting combination grind for scandigrind carving knives:

This seems like a good video for maintaining a T1 ( or the pads of a T2.

General Tormek Questions / older Tormek?
March 18, 2024, 05:04:29 PM
I see frequent topics wondering about whether or not to purchase an older Tormek. This forum is probably the best place to ask these questions, as many of us have extensive experience with older Tormeks.

What concerns me is what I usually don't see in these topics. What is the asking price compared to the cost of a new Tormek. I do not mean to minimize the cost of a new Tormek on one's budget; however, what I have seen of used prices is often very close to the cost of a new unit. Before I purchased my T7, I knew nothing about the used Tormek market. A good used Tormek at a fair price would have been very tempting to me, even a T-2000 in good condition.

Please do not misunderstand me. A T-2000 is a solid machine, usually with many years of useful life remaining. It is compatable with all the latest jigs and accessories. With Tormek's no obsolescense policy, worn, missing, or non working parts can be replaced. Even a severe case, like a rusted shaft with a frozen grinding wheel, can be replaced. If the initial price of the used unit is low enough, even expensive repairs like this may be cost effective. However, at the listed prices I have seen, this is rarely the case.

A rebuilt older Tormek is not the same thng as a new Tormek. It normally does not have Tormek's iron clad eight year (5+3 years if registered) warranty. Tormek has incorporated many innovations over the years. I upgraded the drive wheel of my T7. The new drive wheel is zinc instead of plastic and will probably never break. The rubber wheel is a patented rubberlike surface for better performance. The paint on the housing has improved rust resistance. The present universal supports are threaded for the microadjusts. The alignment of the shaft and sleeves is more precise with the machined zinc top. The present version of the TT-50 truing tool is much improved over the T-2000 vintage truing tool and improved over the original TT-50.

Is a used T-2000 a good buy? For the right price, I would buy one, but only at the right price. I still believe a new user who does not have a trusted coach is better served with a new, fully warranted Tormek.

General Tormek Questions / "Plasters"
March 06, 2024, 09:37:20 PM
The first time I heard the term "plasters" was when Tormek started including them with new machines. Yesterday I had occasion to hear plasters from a different perspective, literally from the ground up. I have a tradition ith two of my neighbors. Whoever happens to be home when the trash or recycleing s collected brings the empty cans from the street to the garages.

Forgetting my age, I started to bring up the recycling cans. The next thing I knew, I was face down at the edge of the street and could not get up. Other than a few minor scrapes, I was not injured; I just could not get up. Several good neighbors came to help me. One of them mentioned that he was an army medic. Explainng what he was doing, he told me that he was placing several plasters on my hand and face. Noticing his use of the word plasters, I asked him if he was exposed to British English He said that he had studied British English, presumably while growing up in Africa.

I am grateful for good neighbors especially for one skilled in plasters.

We have a forum member who needs our help.  In this case, the member is me. For the past six months, I have had deteriorating balace and general exhaustion.

My Tormek is presently setup in my basement workshop. This is very inconvenient, as going up and dowstairs is hazardous with my balance. I believe I can handle one or two round trips.
I don't know how long lastingave these symptoms will be. After numerous tests, blood tests, and scans. we have a very good idea of what I do not have and no clue as to what I do have.

Working with the Tormek has been an important part of my life since 2009. I think I could contnue if I switch to a sitting position. Your thoughts and suggestions will be most appreciated.


One of my happy memories from visiting Tormek was meeting Alex Carmona. In addition to being a nice guy, Alex is a consummate artist and craftsman. He was one of the featured artists displaying atthe Tormek Gallery.

Here is a link to his gouge sharpening video:

Here is a link showing Alex at work:

We occasionally receive a question about fitting a T4 (a e200 mm diameter wheel which also fits a T2) onto a t8.

I just took some measurements using a metric combination square as a depth gage. The width of the 250mm grinding wheels is 50 mm at the edge. The indent on the outside (EZYlock side) is 4.5 mm, meaning the width of the wheel is 45.5 mm at the bore. The width of the 200 mm diameter wheels is 40 mm at the edge. The indent on the outside face is 2.5 mm, meaning the width of the wheel is 37.5 mm at the bore.

In order for the T4 wheel to tighten in a T8, it is necessary to add an extra Washer for stone,   Here is a link to the part:

With the added washer, a 200 diameter T4 wheel will fit in a T8 as well as any 250 mm wheel which has worn down to 200 mm. In general, I think it makes sense to use 250 mm wheels with the T8. Occasionally, a wheel is only available in 200mm or a 200mm hollow grind is specified for a particular blade.