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Topics - Ken S

#1
This seems like a good video for maintaining a T1 ( or the pads of a T2.

https://youtu.be/hKohrsHODTA?si=g788I_Jv6cvU0TUJ

Ken
#2
General Tormek Questions / older Tormek?
March 18, 2024, 05:04:29 PM
I see frequent topics wondering about whether or not to purchase an older Tormek. This forum is probably the best place to ask these questions, as many of us have extensive experience with older Tormeks.

What concerns me is what I usually don't see in these topics. What is the asking price compared to the cost of a new Tormek. I do not mean to minimize the cost of a new Tormek on one's budget; however, what I have seen of used prices is often very close to the cost of a new unit. Before I purchased my T7, I knew nothing about the used Tormek market. A good used Tormek at a fair price would have been very tempting to me, even a T-2000 in good condition.

Please do not misunderstand me. A T-2000 is a solid machine, usually with many years of useful life remaining. It is compatable with all the latest jigs and accessories. With Tormek's no obsolescense policy, worn, missing, or non working parts can be replaced. Even a severe case, like a rusted shaft with a frozen grinding wheel, can be replaced. If the initial price of the used unit is low enough, even expensive repairs like this may be cost effective. However, at the listed prices I have seen, this is rarely the case.

A rebuilt older Tormek is not the same thng as a new Tormek. It normally does not have Tormek's iron clad eight year (5+3 years if registered) warranty. Tormek has incorporated many innovations over the years. I upgraded the drive wheel of my T7. The new drive wheel is zinc instead of plastic and will probably never break. The rubber wheel is a patented rubberlike surface for better performance. The paint on the housing has improved rust resistance. The present universal supports are threaded for the microadjusts. The alignment of the shaft and sleeves is more precise with the machined zinc top. The present version of the TT-50 truing tool is much improved over the T-2000 vintage truing tool and improved over the original TT-50.

Is a used T-2000 a good buy? For the right price, I would buy one, but only at the right price. I still believe a new user who does not have a trusted coach is better served with a new, fully warranted Tormek.

Ken
#3
General Tormek Questions / "Plasters"
March 06, 2024, 09:37:20 PM
The first time I heard the term "plasters" was when Tormek started including them with new machines. Yesterday I had occasion to hear plasters from a different perspective, literally from the ground up. I have a tradition ith two of my neighbors. Whoever happens to be home when the trash or recycleing s collected brings the empty cans from the street to the garages.

Forgetting my age, I started to bring up the recycling cans. The next thing I knew, I was face down at the edge of the street and could not get up. Other than a few minor scrapes, I was not injured; I just could not get up. Several good neighbors came to help me. One of them mentioned that he was an army medic. Explainng what he was doing, he told me that he was placing several plasters on my hand and face. Noticing his use of the word plasters, I asked him if he was exposed to British English He said that he had studied British English, presumably while growing up in Africa.

I am grateful for good neighbors especially for one skilled in plasters.

Ken
#4
We have a forum member who needs our help.  In this case, the member is me. For the past six months, I have had deteriorating balace and general exhaustion.

My Tormek is presently setup in my basement workshop. This is very inconvenient, as going up and dowstairs is hazardous with my balance. I believe I can handle one or two round trips.
I don't know how long lastingave these symptoms will be. After numerous tests, blood tests, and scans. we have a very good idea of what I do not have and no clue as to what I do have.

Working with the Tormek has been an important part of my life since 2009. I think I could contnue if I switch to a sitting position. Your thoughts and suggestions will be most appreciated.

Ken

#5
One of my happy memories from visiting Tormek was meeting Alex Carmona. In addition to being a nice guy, Alex is a consummate artist and craftsman. He was one of the featured artists displaying atthe Tormek Gallery.

Here is a link to his gouge sharpening video:

https://youtu.be/6s5dxcHVDtU?si=IcoZqC8L8yms4RNh

Here is a link showing Alex at work:

https://youtu.be/O7x6O_1sRAI?si=YQfzDih_ZsKaboEq

Ken
#6
We occasionally receive a question about fitting a T4 (a e200 mm diameter wheel which also fits a T2) onto a t8.

I just took some measurements using a metric combination square as a depth gage. The width of the 250mm grinding wheels is 50 mm at the edge. The indent on the outside (EZYlock side) is 4.5 mm, meaning the width of the wheel is 45.5 mm at the bore. The width of the 200 mm diameter wheels is 40 mm at the edge. The indent on the outside face is 2.5 mm, meaning the width of the wheel is 37.5 mm at the bore.

In order for the T4 wheel to tighten in a T8, it is necessary to add an extra Washer for stone,   Here is a link to the part:

https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Washer-for-Stone-P2059.aspx

With the added washer, a 200 diameter T4 wheel will fit in a T8 as well as any 250 mm wheel which has worn down to 200 mm. In general, I think it makes sense to use 250 mm wheels with the T8. Occasionally, a wheel is only available in 200mm or a 200mm hollow grind is specified for a particular blade.

Ken
#7
9:30 AM (eastern time US) Wed feb 21

https://www.youtube.com/live/YOM931z3YPM?si=OY1CR3OCtlMB32Xs

Reshaping woodturning tools on a bench grinder
In this episode of the Tormek sharpening classes we explain how you can quickly and with full control, re-profile your turning tools on your bench grinder. The BGM-100 Bench Grinder Mounting Kit allows you to use the same jig settings as on your water-cooled Tormek sharpening system. It is therefore easy to do the rough shaping on the bench grinder and then continue to sharpen and maintain the edge of your Tormek machine.

Check in with us live today to see how to install and use the BGM-100 Bench Grinder Mounting Kit , and ask your questions to our experts. See you in a bit!
When?
TODAY Wednesday, February 21, 3.30 sharp!😉
(3.30 PM, Swedish time, CET / 9.30 AM, US Eastern Time, ET)
Watch live!


Ken
#8
Knife Sharpening / "an afterthought" ?
February 17, 2024, 08:58:48 AM

"The Tormek was not created as a knife-sharpening equipment. Knives are kind of an afterthought."

I recently read this comment on our forum. While I partially agree with this, I also have reservations about it. It is true that Torgny's original idea fifty years ago was to create a sharpening tool for his father who was a woodworker. I don't know exactly when Tormek users began sharpening knives.

While developing the kenjig technique, I learned that the SVM knife jigs were modified in 1992 to have shorter handles. I don't know when the first Tormek knife jigs were introduced. However, by 1992, thirty two years ago, they were modified. I do not consider thirty two years "an afterthought". In those thirty two years we have seen several versions of the SVM jigs and an entirely new series of KJ jigs.

Ken
#9
In my efforts to learn more about bushcrafting knives, I keep encountering videos which include batoning (using a knife to split small pieces of wood).

In general,I prefer smaller knives. The typical Moras seem plenty large to me for most "camp chores", although perhaps smallish for batoning. This intrigued me:

https://youtu.be/epbUPi-0hnA?si=9NyMNGOVmO7wIhdi

(Starts at about 16:00)

This small, inexpensive Ontario machete looks just the ticket for batoning small wood. The blade is just under five mm thick, well within the range of the KJ-45. It is compact and light. It seems ideal for pairing with a Mora.

I do not desire to become a knife collector. This seems a worthy, inexpensive addition to my humble collection.

Ken

PS This was out of stock at Knife Center. I actually purchased it on Amazon.
#10
General Tormek Questions / Initial burr removal step
January 12, 2024, 07:12:42 AM
When I research a Tormek related sharpening question online, I prefer to start with a Tormek source person that I trust. More than one trusted Tormek person is even better.  For this question, how to initially reduce burr, I was fortunate enough to have two trusted Tormek persons.

My first source person was Stig. During a conversation several years ago, Stig mentioned the importance of making the finishing strokes of a sharpening step with very light pressure. At the time, I thought this was to lighten the scratch pattern, which is partially correct.

My second trusted Tormek person helped me to see the rest of the answer. Johan is Tormek's Global Director for the T2. In the online class he and Sébastien did with the T2, Johan demonstrates and explains the importance of following up raising a burr with both bevels with one light pass on each bevel to reduce the burr. While Johan demonstrates this with the T2, it would apply with any Tormek. Here is a link, starting at 5:50:

https://www.youtube.com/live/dCe3bKc5Ym8?si=PBsmgJAuP6uxKBHg

In this case, I also found a good video demonstrating the concept using a diamond bench stone. Here is a link:

https://youtu.be/ZTuZB8uGbaU?si=sDnZqlwm2Rx6B0m8

There are numerous methods of burr reduction. The last light pass method is fast, reliable and requires no extra equipment. It is not designed for total burr removal, just to give one a very good start.

Ken
#11
We are having intermittent trouble on the forum this week. Tormek IT is aware of this and will look into it after vacation this week.
Ken
#12
General Tormek Questions / New Tormek Story video
December 27, 2023, 03:15:27 PM
Early this morning we have a new Tormek video, "The Tormek Story". Here is a link:

https://youtu.be/wYaVdHSJGN8?si=eW47b6nzhG4Y4EYQ

This informative video tells the story of fifty years of Tormek, as told by those who lived it. The majority of the video is in English. It is well worth watching.

Ken
#13
General Tormek Questions / Season's Greetings
December 25, 2023, 01:50:03 PM
Season's greetings to all. 2023 has been an exciting year for the Tormek Community. It has seen the 50th Anniversary T8; the recertification of the T4 and T2 to continuous duty; the self centering KJ knife jigs; the MB-102; and some fine online classes. I look forward to 2024 being another productive year for our Tormek Community.

Ken
#14
In Class 22 Wolfgang was asked if there is a T2 style knife jig for the T8. He answered "No, it is a completely different technology." Excellent answer. It also starts to explain why the tilt up technique is not used for the tip of the knife with the T2 and T1. Start at 23:00.

https://www.youtube.com/live/zPfckZXyW6Y?si=FGv6XFa-_U2eEDuU

Ken
#15
Drill Bit Sharpening / small bit preference with SG-250
December 06, 2023, 09:19:44 AM
I was pleasantly surprised. Class 22 is listed as "which machine should I choose". Tucked in is a question about the DBS-22 with some interesting thoughts. I had not thought about leaning toward the larger T8 with the DBS-22 because of the weight of the jig. Also, I had not thought about possible damage to a diamond wheel with smaller drill bits. (Use the SG-250 with smaller drill bits.) This class is the first place I have heard this information.
Well done, Sébastien and Wolfgang!

https://www.youtube.com/live/zPfckZXyW6Y?si=FGv6XFa-_U2eEDuU

Ken
#16
I used to think I had no use for recurve sharpening. I did not, and still do not, have any recurve knives. I was wrong.

The first twelve minutes of the recurve class have some excellent background information on preparing the grinding wheel. I highly recommend watching it.Here is a link:

https://www.youtube.com/live/aw4vJSUPXmk?si=REqO_BTvEpVjnxKJ

Ken

PS The rest of the class is informative, also.
#17
Part of the Tormek philosophy is not abandoning  support for older, out of production models. Part of this program includes maintaining only the latest parts in inventory when they are compatible with older models. An example of this was the disappearance of the stainless steel straight main shaft when the EZYlock shaft became available. Tormek quite logically concluded that, as the EZYlock was fully backward compatible, there was no need for the expense of maintaining the straight shaft in spare parts inventory. 

As newer, improved versions of jigs and accessories are introduced, older versions are no longer listed in the product line and are discontinued. I suspect this will happen with the SVM jigs, if it has not already happened.

I now think of the SVM and KJ jigs as two different tools. The KJ is self centering and can do convexing. The SVM, while not self centering, offers adjustability of the end stop. while this may not be necessary for many users, for high volume knife sharpeners it is highly desirable. Therefore, I think it is prudent for a knife sharpener who is seriously contemplating starting a knife sharpening service to acquire an SVM-45. The SVM and KJ jigs complement each other. The KJ is the jig of choice for thicker knives. In my opinion, the SVM is the correct choice for rapid switching of knives of typical thickness. I believe a well equipped sharpener should have both. I do not believe duplicating the long jigs is as critical.

At this time, finding SVM jigs among dealers' stock or used should not be difficult. I would not wait.

Ken



#18
General Tormek Questions / Tormek expectations
November 28, 2023, 02:47:48 PM
We have always had high expectations for our Tormeks. And, our expectations keep getting higher.

I purchased my first T7 in 2009, the tail end of a very long Tormek history when the complete basic machine consisted of the machine, one grinding wheel (the SG-250) with stone grader, and one leather honing wheel.

Today, the "complete basic machine" would probably consist of at least six grinding wheels and two honing wheels, plus a desire  for more of each. Please do not misunderstand me. I am not being critical of this trend, only noting it. Our variety of jigs, accessories and expectations has also increased.

We may be overlooking the fact that, while the Tormek excels at many sharpening tasks, in some its performance is less than excellent. For example, with flattening the backs of chisels  using the outside of the grinding wheels, conventional grinding wheels could not be retrued (flattened). the ability to flatten declined with wheel wear. Admittedly, the consistent size of the diamond wheels has diminished this limitation; however, when using the SG-250, the grinding wheel designed for high carbon steel, the constraint still remains. While purchasing diamond wheels may be cost efficient for a large shop or school, I find the cost per tool excessive to purchase diamond wheels for just several chisels. I still prefer to do the entire bevel sharpening procedure with the SG-250, but do the flattening and back polishing with flat bench stones. Admittedly, some prefer to do the final sharpening steps for the bevel with bench stones. This is a perfectly valid technique, just one that I do not use. My point is that, in my opinion, the Tormek excels at sharpening bevels and is less than stellar at flattening backs. Fortunately, back flattening is a one time chore, and minimized by purchasing premium chisels. Why not use the Tormek for operations where it excels, and related tools for the other operations? We do not expect this of other tools. Even a humble home workshop probably has multiple saws, hammers, chisels, etc.

Related, is the concept of tool (and knife) size. The Tormek excels at mid range tools and knives.  It does a great job with mid size chisels. With chisels 1/4" and narrower, performance can get dicey. Knives can be the same way. It excels with chef knives. Very small blades like pen knives can be dicey, even with the SVM-00.

I am not being critical of the Tormek. I am only saying that although my other sharpening gear is no longer used much in routine sharpening, I still find it useful for some operations. Sometimes I find a few quick strokes with a mill file more efficient than using my Tormek. as Engineer Scotty would say in the Star Trek movies, "The right tool for the right job".

Ken.
#19
In the ongoing debate of whether to sharpen knives grinding into or trailing, one question seems to be often overlooked:

Are we grinding with the knife held in a jig or freehand?

While perhaps not the only issue, I believe this is the fundamental issue. Grinding into the edge allows for observing the water flow over the edge. it also allows for heavier grinding pressure and faster grinding times. Grinding away makes freehand grinding possible. Grinding away may also allow for more control due to the slower pace, although a case can be made for the accuracy of using the jig.

Two sub questions should be included with this question: Have we developed the skill to sharpen freehand well? And, how many knives do we sharpen in what time period?

My knife sharpening mentor, who was proficient sharpening in either direction, generally sharpened edge trailing. While he acknowledges that jig sharpening offers the most control, he sharpened at farmers markets for many years with the Saturday morning time constraint of sharpening a hundred knives within the morning. Not having to set up each knife in a jig allowed him to "get up a little speed".

I offer these thoughts as guides and do not recommend carrying them to extremes. Your comments are welcome.

Ken
#20
For some reason, I did not receive the notification email about the upcoming online class on Nov 22. The topic is maintaining your Tormek, an important topic.
Don't miss it!

Ken