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Topics - Ken S

#21
The late David Charlesworth was a superb woodworker. This is the best demonstration of cambering with the SE-77 that I have found.

https://youtu.be/Bfd-xzOF5sc?si=_04kB3L-veZorMvj

Ken
#22
Tormek T-1 and T-2 / Well done T2 video
June 01, 2024, 05:39:45 PM
This video is by Darryl Hughes of Affinity Cuiinary, the former US importer. I met Darryl years ago and remember him as a likable guy. Judging from this video, he has also become quite knowledgeable, also. The video is focused on professional chefs, the target market for the T2. It is obviously a marketing video, but well done. here is a link:

https://youtu.be/lO2gVo9jx2I?si=XIWkDNS25nXNkhdN

Ken
#23
Tormek T-1 and T-2 / revisiting a firestorm
May 28, 2024, 03:16:30 PM
I inadvertantly caused a firestorm when I posted my idea that I thought a knife only side job sharpener might be better served with a T2 instead of a T4 or T8 as his main machine. Without any evil intentions, I apparently dishonored a sacred cow.

I respect the critical replies. They are based on good, solid Tormek experience. However; I don't always agree with them. A primary criticism was that the T2 can only sharpen kitchen knives. (To be fair, as a specialty machine, it is specifically designed for chefs to maintain their knives.) As an old hand with sharpening chisels and plane irons going back to oilstones, fine tooth mill files, and sandpaper on glass, I am quite sure I could sharpen chisels and plane irons with my T2. I freely admit that the T2 is no match for a T4 or T8 with these tools. How often do chefs sharpen woodworking tools?

Most youtube videos show a knife being thoroughly abused before being sharpened. Although the T2 survives this cruel and unusual punishment, how often do we see a good chef actually abuse his knives, the tools of his trade, like this? Yes, the T2 is really designed for knives to be regularly maintained. Why would a top professional want it otherwise?

"Only knives"? Not so. The two Tormek videos demonstrate sharpening other tools which are part of every kitchen such as food processor blades and rotary blades. Especially with food processor blades, I don't know of any other jig controlled method of sharpening these.

The more recent video (Johan and Hugo) includes some things not in the first video. The wheels used originally used were DWF, as opposed to the more recent DF with side diamonds. I reduced a bolster with my DWF, although the newer DF does this more conveniently using the side of the wheel. The newer video also shows some user modifications to expand the range of the jig.

I believe through field use the T2 is evolving into an even more useful machine. I leave it to the reader to decide if he wants to include it in his sharpening kit.

Ken
#24
Knife Sharpening / ceramic knives with the S G
May 28, 2024, 04:55:10 AM
This surprised me. Thoughts?

https://youtu.be/u1mMoXjHWcQ?si=gAGpWFrQJulJnGBt

Ken

#25
Tormek T-1 and T-2 / T2 "202" video
May 25, 2024, 01:28:20 PM
The T2 Online Class is well done and informative. This video goes beyond it, adding the experience gained from more time in the field. It is located on the Tormek Culinary youtube channel and well worth watching. I recommend it not just for T2 users, but also for anyone who sharpens knives with a Tormek. Here is a link:

https://youtu.be/JFSg_eUYc10?si=B7Z5_LAHQPfh5YDc

Ken
#26
Tormek T-1 and T-2 / another good opinion
May 21, 2024, 04:25:35 AM
I enjoy Ukulele Jay's videos. In this video, he demonstrates how he skillfully uses his T1. His technique is not idetical to Tormek's. It is close and it is effective.

https://youtu.be/CRoeRtjUymE?si=Kx0ZHCgb_8lFcvs5

Enjoy.

Ken
#27
All of the demonstrations in the online classes show the honing compound being applied directly before honing. I can see the teaching value of doing this in sequence; however, it is not the most effective time to apply the compound.

The online classes mention that the honing compound works best when it is almost dry. I would suggest that it should be applied the first thing after the cover is removed to give it as much time as practical to dry.

Ken
#28
Hand Tool Woodworking / "a small square"
April 19, 2024, 01:20:11 PM
Tormek makes a very nice small square. You get one "for free" if you purchare the Anniversary Black T8. Unfortunately, this small square is not yet available as a stand alone accessory. HOWEVER, there is a relatively inexpensive "plan B". Although the TTS-100 is primarily designed for setting woodturning tools, it can also work very well with vhisels and plane irons. It makes a very fast, accurate setting tool and a useful small. Wolfgang demonstrates this at 1:07:20 in this video:

https://www.youtube.com/live/7aHmc43RUY4?si=av0B0hGR-tWmKWQy

Wolfgang demonstrates this with a skew chisel; however, many things in sharpening cross function.

Ken

PS The first time I sharpened a turning skew, I did not know the TTS-100/ small square trick. I assumed my skew angle matched the Tormek diagram. This "sharpening" turned into a lengthy reshaping project. A wiser plan would have been to draw the square line and set the skew angle to just a little closer to the recommended angle. After several sharpenings, I would have gradually matched the angle. A markedcollar with the third setting left blank initally would have tipped me off.
#29
This video shows an interesting combination grind for scandigrind carving knives:

https://youtu.be/2awkDNBT584?si=HV0H3RqOuEKk5pI8

Ken
#30
This seems like a good video for maintaining a T1 ( or the pads of a T2.

https://youtu.be/hKohrsHODTA?si=g788I_Jv6cvU0TUJ

Ken
#31
General Tormek Questions / older Tormek?
March 18, 2024, 05:04:29 PM
I see frequent topics wondering about whether or not to purchase an older Tormek. This forum is probably the best place to ask these questions, as many of us have extensive experience with older Tormeks.

What concerns me is what I usually don't see in these topics. What is the asking price compared to the cost of a new Tormek. I do not mean to minimize the cost of a new Tormek on one's budget; however, what I have seen of used prices is often very close to the cost of a new unit. Before I purchased my T7, I knew nothing about the used Tormek market. A good used Tormek at a fair price would have been very tempting to me, even a T-2000 in good condition.

Please do not misunderstand me. A T-2000 is a solid machine, usually with many years of useful life remaining. It is compatable with all the latest jigs and accessories. With Tormek's no obsolescense policy, worn, missing, or non working parts can be replaced. Even a severe case, like a rusted shaft with a frozen grinding wheel, can be replaced. If the initial price of the used unit is low enough, even expensive repairs like this may be cost effective. However, at the listed prices I have seen, this is rarely the case.

A rebuilt older Tormek is not the same thng as a new Tormek. It normally does not have Tormek's iron clad eight year (5+3 years if registered) warranty. Tormek has incorporated many innovations over the years. I upgraded the drive wheel of my T7. The new drive wheel is zinc instead of plastic and will probably never break. The rubber wheel is a patented rubberlike surface for better performance. The paint on the housing has improved rust resistance. The present universal supports are threaded for the microadjusts. The alignment of the shaft and sleeves is more precise with the machined zinc top. The present version of the TT-50 truing tool is much improved over the T-2000 vintage truing tool and improved over the original TT-50.

Is a used T-2000 a good buy? For the right price, I would buy one, but only at the right price. I still believe a new user who does not have a trusted coach is better served with a new, fully warranted Tormek.

Ken
#32
General Tormek Questions / "Plasters"
March 06, 2024, 09:37:20 PM
The first time I heard the term "plasters" was when Tormek started including them with new machines. Yesterday I had occasion to hear plasters from a different perspective, literally from the ground up. I have a tradition ith two of my neighbors. Whoever happens to be home when the trash or recycleing s collected brings the empty cans from the street to the garages.

Forgetting my age, I started to bring up the recycling cans. The next thing I knew, I was face down at the edge of the street and could not get up. Other than a few minor scrapes, I was not injured; I just could not get up. Several good neighbors came to help me. One of them mentioned that he was an army medic. Explainng what he was doing, he told me that he was placing several plasters on my hand and face. Noticing his use of the word plasters, I asked him if he was exposed to British English He said that he had studied British English, presumably while growing up in Africa.

I am grateful for good neighbors especially for one skilled in plasters.

Ken
#33
We have a forum member who needs our help.  In this case, the member is me. For the past six months, I have had deteriorating balace and general exhaustion.

My Tormek is presently setup in my basement workshop. This is very inconvenient, as going up and dowstairs is hazardous with my balance. I believe I can handle one or two round trips.
I don't know how long lastingave these symptoms will be. After numerous tests, blood tests, and scans. we have a very good idea of what I do not have and no clue as to what I do have.

Working with the Tormek has been an important part of my life since 2009. I think I could contnue if I switch to a sitting position. Your thoughts and suggestions will be most appreciated.

Ken

#34
One of my happy memories from visiting Tormek was meeting Alex Carmona. In addition to being a nice guy, Alex is a consummate artist and craftsman. He was one of the featured artists displaying atthe Tormek Gallery.

Here is a link to his gouge sharpening video:

https://youtu.be/6s5dxcHVDtU?si=IcoZqC8L8yms4RNh

Here is a link showing Alex at work:

https://youtu.be/O7x6O_1sRAI?si=YQfzDih_ZsKaboEq

Ken
#35
We occasionally receive a question about fitting a T4 (a e200 mm diameter wheel which also fits a T2) onto a t8.

I just took some measurements using a metric combination square as a depth gage. The width of the 250mm grinding wheels is 50 mm at the edge. The indent on the outside (EZYlock side) is 4.5 mm, meaning the width of the wheel is 45.5 mm at the bore. The width of the 200 mm diameter wheels is 40 mm at the edge. The indent on the outside face is 2.5 mm, meaning the width of the wheel is 37.5 mm at the bore.

In order for the T4 wheel to tighten in a T8, it is necessary to add an extra Washer for stone,   Here is a link to the part:

https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Washer-for-Stone-P2059.aspx

With the added washer, a 200 diameter T4 wheel will fit in a T8 as well as any 250 mm wheel which has worn down to 200 mm. In general, I think it makes sense to use 250 mm wheels with the T8. Occasionally, a wheel is only available in 200mm or a 200mm hollow grind is specified for a particular blade.

Ken
#36
9:30 AM (eastern time US) Wed feb 21

https://www.youtube.com/live/YOM931z3YPM?si=OY1CR3OCtlMB32Xs

Reshaping woodturning tools on a bench grinder
In this episode of the Tormek sharpening classes we explain how you can quickly and with full control, re-profile your turning tools on your bench grinder. The BGM-100 Bench Grinder Mounting Kit allows you to use the same jig settings as on your water-cooled Tormek sharpening system. It is therefore easy to do the rough shaping on the bench grinder and then continue to sharpen and maintain the edge of your Tormek machine.

Check in with us live today to see how to install and use the BGM-100 Bench Grinder Mounting Kit , and ask your questions to our experts. See you in a bit!
When?
TODAY Wednesday, February 21, 3.30 sharp!😉
(3.30 PM, Swedish time, CET / 9.30 AM, US Eastern Time, ET)
Watch live!


Ken
#37
Knife Sharpening / "an afterthought" ?
February 17, 2024, 08:58:48 AM

"The Tormek was not created as a knife-sharpening equipment. Knives are kind of an afterthought."

I recently read this comment on our forum. While I partially agree with this, I also have reservations about it. It is true that Torgny's original idea fifty years ago was to create a sharpening tool for his father who was a woodworker. I don't know exactly when Tormek users began sharpening knives.

While developing the kenjig technique, I learned that the SVM knife jigs were modified in 1992 to have shorter handles. I don't know when the first Tormek knife jigs were introduced. However, by 1992, thirty two years ago, they were modified. I do not consider thirty two years "an afterthought". In those thirty two years we have seen several versions of the SVM jigs and an entirely new series of KJ jigs.

Ken
#38
In my efforts to learn more about bushcrafting knives, I keep encountering videos which include batoning (using a knife to split small pieces of wood).

In general,I prefer smaller knives. The typical Moras seem plenty large to me for most "camp chores", although perhaps smallish for batoning. This intrigued me:

https://youtu.be/epbUPi-0hnA?si=9NyMNGOVmO7wIhdi

(Starts at about 16:00)

This small, inexpensive Ontario machete looks just the ticket for batoning small wood. The blade is just under five mm thick, well within the range of the KJ-45. It is compact and light. It seems ideal for pairing with a Mora.

I do not desire to become a knife collector. This seems a worthy, inexpensive addition to my humble collection.

Ken

PS This was out of stock at Knife Center. I actually purchased it on Amazon.
#39
General Tormek Questions / Initial burr removal step
January 12, 2024, 07:12:42 AM
When I research a Tormek related sharpening question online, I prefer to start with a Tormek source person that I trust. More than one trusted Tormek person is even better.  For this question, how to initially reduce burr, I was fortunate enough to have two trusted Tormek persons.

My first source person was Stig. During a conversation several years ago, Stig mentioned the importance of making the finishing strokes of a sharpening step with very light pressure. At the time, I thought this was to lighten the scratch pattern, which is partially correct.

My second trusted Tormek person helped me to see the rest of the answer. Johan is Tormek's Global Director for the T2. In the online class he and Sébastien did with the T2, Johan demonstrates and explains the importance of following up raising a burr with both bevels with one light pass on each bevel to reduce the burr. While Johan demonstrates this with the T2, it would apply with any Tormek. Here is a link, starting at 5:50:

https://www.youtube.com/live/dCe3bKc5Ym8?si=PBsmgJAuP6uxKBHg

In this case, I also found a good video demonstrating the concept using a diamond bench stone. Here is a link:

https://youtu.be/ZTuZB8uGbaU?si=sDnZqlwm2Rx6B0m8

There are numerous methods of burr reduction. The last light pass method is fast, reliable and requires no extra equipment. It is not designed for total burr removal, just to give one a very good start.

Ken
#40
We are having intermittent trouble on the forum this week. Tormek IT is aware of this and will look into it after vacation this week.
Ken