Messages

PS For anyone planning to add any jigs or accessories in the near future, With the 10% discount, September is a goodtime to do it.

Ken

I ran this by Tormek, Inc in Illinois. Here is their reply:

"10 percent off jigs and accessories in September. That's a real thing."

Ken

One of my regrets with this forum is that our newer members never had the opportunity of working with some of our outstanding, now deceased members. Jan (Jan Scanvara) was outstanding. He was a combination of a practical, helpful, down to earth member and a highly educated, innovative professor of engineering from the Czech Republic. He was also a good friend.

Ken

Tim,
Please check your PMs.
Ken

My introduction to BESS testing was many years ago when Steve Bottorff sent me a now out of production KN100. It held the knife securely. The amount of pressure on the test medium was controlled by the number of BBs in the container above the knife. The procedure was slower, but seemed more accurate than with the present models.

With care, even the least expensive model will identify the presence of some burr. In my opinion, many of the inaccuracy problems blamed of the tester are really the result of poor technique. A fine violin skillfully played can produce beautiful music or noise if played by a poor player. I recently refreshed my BESS knowledge wth study of the sdgeonup.com website. Mike Brubacherand his creware continuing to innovate, even if some of the users Re not keeping pace.

Ken

This beautiful restoration by Kwakster reminds me of the need for thinking on various levels. This impeccable work is far removed from the work needed from the busy farmers market of large contract sharpener. I am not denigrating this busier word, just stating the obvious in terms of expectations. As Tormek might say, it cuts the tomato, and cuts it well. That is the objective, not creating a show piece.

Longtime members may remember the restoration Jan did on his grandfather's chisel. It was truly a labor of love. There is room in the Tormek spectrum for both restoration and workaday sharpening, as well as for crossover work. 

Kwakster lets us see the inner artist.

Ken

Well done, Kwakster!

Ken

This is just a wild guess: The original Tormek grinding wheels were natural
sandstone mined at Gotland Island. These were phased out to the aluminum oxide manmade Super Grind (SG) wheels. Perhaps the SE wheels were these sandstone,
Email support for a better answer (support@tormek.se).

Please post their reply.

Ken

Interesting thought, TGB. I did an Amazon and a Google search for TBT-1000 with no luck. Would you please provide a purchase source?

What initially piqued my curiosity was a comment Wolfgang made "or an old credit card, which he did not have". I wondered if a used gift card or a Sharpie might work. I believe this requires further investigation.

I welcome further comments.

Ken

Please allow me to clarify some things.  What I post are my opinions. While based on fifteen years experience with the Tormek and many more years of sharpening and much study, I do not have any illusions  that they are gospel or the only way for all beginners. I consider myself still learning.

Like you, I purchased almost the entire Tormek system early on, including several CBN wheels. I do not consider them to be inferior to diamond wheels. Yes, there are differences; however, either will get the job done. I happen to prefer Tormek diamond wheels, but that is just my opinion. In my case, the SG-250 is adequate for my needs. Your needs may be different, which is fine with me.

I do object to the frequent misinformation about the cost or inconvenience of ACC. I have never seen cost documentation from those who make those claims. Each Tormek diamond wheel comes with a 150ml bottle of ACC. A trough full of solution for the T8 requires 125ml of water and 5ml of ACC. This solution can be reused. In addition to rust prevention, it keeps both the wheel and the tools clean. It also keeps the sharpening process water cooled and does not require scrubbing with PB Blaster. Do the math for cost, and compare it with the cost of a set of CBN wheels. (Many users have both diamond and CBN wheels.)
Compare the sales pitches of the CBN vendors and Tormek equally critically.

I see nothing wrong with purchasing more gear, as long as it dies not interfere with the learning process. I hope your Tormek experience will be a source of long term satisfaction.

Ken

HJ,

The MB-102 is a direct descendant of the MB-100. It has all functions of the MB-100, plus two holes which also make it a FVB. Tormek combined these two tools at essentially the cost of either one. Be sure and watch the online class for the
MB-100. At about 9:00, it covers mounting the jig in either position. Here is a link:

https://www.youtube.com/live/3r_1mZ9XjIs?si=kgulycw3geEc3Xm8

Ken

I remember recently watching a video where the presenter used the lid of an EM-15 edge marker instead of his thumb nail. I tried this, and it seemed to work well. My knife slid along smoothly until it hit a rough patch. I have never been comfortable using my thumb nail.

I held off posting this because I have not been able to find the source and post a link. I would be most appreciative if anyone remembered the source and would post a link. For that matter, I would welcome good information either supporting or disproving the marker top idea.

Thanks in advance.

Ken

Haitham,

What equipment do you have presently?

The MB-102 as a frontal vertical base is primarily for grinding and honing with the grinding wheel turning away from the tool. The multibase function is primarily to allow flat grinding using the side of the diamond wheels.

I am reluctant to see anyone purchase equipment which will not do what they want.
With that in mind, I recommend some study time with the Tormek online classes.

Ken

I have not heard anything about it lately; however, we used to hear about
"600 grit" with the SG grinding wheel. The 600 number is just an approximation, really meaning  an in between grit. The SG is not a 220/1000 two grit only stone.
we can vary the grit by just varying the time with the stone grader. Remember, this is not an exact science.

Ken

Welcome to the forum, Haitham.

Very long chisels can often be removed from their wooden handles for sharpening or more compact storage. They are called socket chisels. Your sash mortise chisel appears to be this construction. Tapping the side of the wooden handle should release the blade of the chisel. Sharpening just the blade is less clumsy than sharpening the long assembled chisel. After sharpening, tapping the bottom of the reassembled chisel on your bench should hold it together. (If the handle is still loose, a kittle hair spray has enough tack to hold it together.)

Your first chisel appears to be tang construction and probably cannot be disassembled. The US-430 is primarily for larger knives; however, it may also be useful with your long chisels. Your long chisels are similar to "very narrow cleaver knives". The longer projection should work with the taller legs of the
US-430.

Regarding the thickness of your chisels, if they are too thick to fit in the SE-77 (or the SE-76), they will probably fit in the long discontinued SVH-60 jig. These are only available now used. Here is a current link on ebay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/135067024062

I remember a very similar forum discussion many years ago with forum member Ionut. He had a thick "pig sticker" mortise chisel which was too thick for the SE-76 jig. The newer square edge jigs tighten from below. The SVH-60 tightens from above, and has more adjustment room. SVH-60 jigs are available occasionally on ebay.

Keep us posted.

Ken