Messages

CB,
I ordered a knife to convex today. It is a Mora Companion HD (heavy duty, as the blade thickness is heavier than the standard Companion. It is within .1mm of the thickness of the Garberg, Mora's only full tang knife. I ordered it in stainless steel and colored burnt orange, so that it will be easily identifiable.
I will post my impressions of convexing it.
Ken

CB,

You make a very valid observation; I should actually convex a knife. Part of me knows that is the right thing to do. Another part of me doubts that convexing would really benefit my simple knife needs. I need to make that decision based on actual experience.

I like Mora knives. The Companion HD, heavy duty model seems a good balance of a thicker blade at a modest price, a good convexing candidate, and a knife I might actually use. WhTare your thoughts on this? (Other members, please feel free to comment.)

Ken

Well done, CB.

Interesting thoughts.

I generally follow Tormek's recommended sharpening procedures. They have been factory and user tested for decades. The key word in my statement is "generally".
All too often, I have found that certain tools do not work well with the Tormek because the manufacturers failed to design them within Tormek specs. Some are too large; some are too small; some are not made of a Tormek friendly alloy; and some are not perfectly machined parallel, flat, and square. A related set of problems are Tormek buyers who may not want to purchase all thirty nine jigs to better cover the waterfront and sharpening customers who procrastinate long beyond the "just off sharp" period for which Tormek excels for resharpening.

In my opinion, one of the best examples of forum ingenuity is "Herman's Homemade Small Platform". While the SVD-110 excels with large turning scrapers, it is too large and clumsy for very small knives. While the SVD-00 performs well with round Wooden handled carving tools, it is clumsy with small metal knives.

In the excellent Tormek YouTube channel long video of Glenn Lucas demonstrating sharpening turning tools, Glenn demonstrates sharpening a thin parting tool with the SVD-120 platform. His technique was excellent, quite in contrast to my memory of watching a Tormek demonstrator unsuccessfully butchering a thin parting tool with the traditional multi jig. The tool was just too thin for the jig.

I have stated my opinion that the best US-430 is the US-430. Yes, other methods may work occasionally, but not ideally.

I am keeping the jury out with convexing with the KJ-45. I have not developed the skill to fairly judge it. Also, for my needs, I am not convinced that convexing is necessary or beneficial. I freely admit that my knife sharpening needs are more limited than many users. If that should change, I would rethink the issue.

Ken

Whenever I encounter a new piece of equipment or technique, I tend to categorize it as immediately useful; hopefully useful at some point; maybe useful for me at best; or not for me. Sometimes a jig or technique may fit more than one category for this user.

Different aspects of the KJ-45 self centering knife jig fall into different categories for me. The main event, self centering falls into immediately useful, although not in a way one might expect. My thickest knife is my Mora Garberg, with a thickness of 3.2mm. I have several Mora knives, none of which I need. I have reached the age where bushcrafting is only a mental interest. I just like Mora knives. Looking ahead, if I ever need to sharpen my Garberg, it will be far less frequently than I sharpen my several thin paring knives. It is my thin paring knives which seem candidates for self centering. If I am being honest with myself, workarounds for my thin knives do not seem difficult.

While the inner stop of the KJ-45 might seem a possible substitute for the US-430, the ideal US-430 is the US-430.If I did not already have one, for knife blades longer than eight inches and cleavers, the genuine US-430 would be high on my wish list.

I am glad to own a jig which can handle convexing, although I doubt I will ever convex an edge. None of my Moras seem heavy enough, nor are my future plans demanding enough to warrant convexing.

These are all just personal thoughts. If I was a serious knife collector or an active bushcrafter, I would feel differently. I welcome other points of view.

Ken

Welcome to the forum, Lokepus.

Looking at your photos, it appears that your primary bevels may extend too far across the cutting face. Compare your bits with the one in the photo at the start of this video. Notice the primary bevel is very small. If your primary bevel is too,large, that would put extra drag on the drill bit.

Ken

  the start of wisdom!

Ken

Well stated, John.

Ken

I have noticed that increasingly YouTube channels I liked for good information are becoming more like infomercials. I find this trend at least as disturbing as lack of facts, especially when the sales pitch is based on questionable information.
The best defense for this is to be prepared with good factual information.

Ken

Kess, (or is it Keesh? I like to spell people's names correctly.)

Danny makes a good point about avoiding wheel freezing. One of the outstanding features of the T4 is its light weight. As a senior citizen, the T8 can be a bit much for me to carry. The T4 is no problem. Either is easier to carry with the grinding wheel removed.

My suggestion with a shed is to carry your grinding wheel into your house during colder weather and put it in a good place to dry.

A plastic container for your grinding wheel would be useful. I would check in the local grocery store.

Ken

Welcome to the forum, Kees.

You should be able to use the while width of your grinding wheel with the DBS-22. Just keep in mind that there is no automatic stop and use some care.

The Tormek is designed to operate using normal tap water.

I can recommend from personal experience not storing damp grinding wheels in the cardboard boxes. Your grinding wheel will remain damp for several days. After emptying and cleaning your water trough, you can leave your grinding wheel mounted. It will dry naturally.

Enjoy the journey of learning the Tormek and keep us posted. I have found the online class series an invaluable learrning aid.

Ken

Good comments, Sir Amwell.

When I designed the kenjig, I had three "target users" in mind: 1) Beginners who were having trouble coordinating the basic skills to get started sharpening knives. 2) Occasional sharpeners who might sharpen the home knives once a year and might have difficulty remembering all the steps involved. And 3) A busy "weekend warrior" sharpener who might have to sharpen a hundred knives in a Saturday morning.

Time and sharpening techniques have changed since then. I still think the kenjig may have some value for the first and second group. I believe the third, busier group may be better served with more recent developments. This does not discourage me. It was a valuable learning experience. I look to see the kenjig joined on "the back burner" by several things we are regularly using today.

Yes, sharpening is a gift which keeps giving.

Ken

Merlin,

I just found this video by Findon. The technique is solid. I was impressed that he acknowledged that the idea was from Wootz (Vadim), making no claim to being the originator. He also expanded it slightly. It was well done and informative.
here is a link:

https://youtu.be/HzF_TQHixrg?si=b8_joWCNRksz08sZ

Ken

John,

My first router is an ancient Stanley 71. It is a joy to use, quiet, and very controllable. Yours is even better, since it was your Dad's. Think good thoughts of him whenever you use it.

Ken

PS If you ever come across any of the first three books by Pat Warner about the router, please read the credits. I did all the darkroom work for Pat. I learned a lot about routing from Pat. I have always considered him head and shoulders the best router man.

PPS Clever jig, Dr.Al.

Nick,

I knew and liked Wootz from forum posts, emails and as a KG customer. I recently met Sébastien when he heroically rescued me from the Stockholm airport. The happy ending to that story was a half hour car ride together with a good opportunity for a pleasant chat. I trust both of their good intentions, while realizing that things are continually changing and evolving with a forward looking company like Tormek.

Some of the magic becomes just understanding with experience. I was curious to test Tormek's statement that the T4 could only be used freehand for knife honing. The problem was that the plastic knob of the SVM-45 knife jig wanted to occupy the same space as the support bar. I swapped out button cap screws for the jig and sleeves, ground off a miniscule part of the jig, and the problem was solved for around five dollars US. Although this worked, a regular FVB works much better. There is no magic in an FVB, just a very clever solution.

Wootz noted in one of his videos that Tormek used "Swedish leather" for the leather honing wheels. Someone at Tormek must have been paying attention. One of the displays in the new Tormek Museum describes the leather they use. It is a top drawer Swedish product. It is also described in the online class about the museum.

The most famous retained data is the closely guarded recipe for Coca cola. I certainly understand why Tormek would consider formulae for its grinding wheels as propriety information.

With some facts, observations, and opinions we move forward. Since I purchased my T7 in 2009, I have observed many innovations. I believe we will see many more, especially with knife sharpening.

Ken