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Messages - Ken S

#1
You are correct; the manual only shows the TTS-100 for turning gouges. That is unfortunate, as the TTS-100 has several more uses. My suggestion is based on my actual working method for more than ten years. Try it; you will find it works well. No marking is needed beyond the one initial mark, done only once. The patented two metal wheels automatically correct for wheel wear. Used this way, the angles are accurate and consistent.

I don'tknow why Tormek does not show other uses for the TTS-100.

Ken
#2
Rick,

I agree with you that the platform designed by Jan is the way to go when roughing drill bits with CBN and a dry grinder. Drill bits frequently get very hard use and infrequent sharpening. "Resharpening" them is often really reshaping, especially with larger sizes.

Did you have success using the (eight inch diameter) 46 or 80 grit Norton 3X wheels (wet) or the (ten inch diameter) 46 grit wheel (also used wet) with the DBS-22? Granted, they are not as fast as a high speed dry grinder; however they do not produce loose grinding dust to ruin your jig.

Ken
#3
Mrgimp.

You do not specify whether you were using your diamond wheels with the remonnended ACC solution or dry. This is just my opinion; however, I wish Tormek had never said that the diamond wheels could be used dry. ACC has several benefits. It prevents rust on both the wheels and the tools as well as helping them stay clean. If tools sharpened with ACC solution are allowed to air dry, the ACC will leave some rust prevention.

The first I heard of using PBBlaster was in a video by a vendor who recommends his CBN wheels be only used dry. These wheels are made of a fiberglass type substance or aluminum. Tormek diamond wheels are made of steel, which is stronger and require fewer chemicals during manufacturing. Please note: I am not disparaging CBN wheels. I am just stating that, especially when used dry, they are different than diamond wheels.

Tormek should issue specific cleaning instructions.

You should email your question and photo to (support@tormek.se).

Please keep us posted.

Ken
#4
Good thoughts, John.
Ken

PS The same guy did another video where he sharpened a paring knife @17° per side) using the T1 and had a BESS reading of 110 (and then 99 adding just a dry leather strop). He claims BESS readings of 50 when using extra honing gear, but, as a cook, he feels BESS 100 is more than sharp enough for kitchen knives.
#5
Rick,
You should sent your question to support (support@tormek.se).

One question I have is about the choice of grinding wheels. This seems like a good use for CBN wheels. Diamond and CBN wheels run cooler than conventional wheels. I mention CBN because they are available in 80 grit. As a general rule, coarser wheels run cooler than conventional wheels.

On the plus side for diamond wheels, they are built on steel frames. There are some CBN wheels with steel frames.

Ken
#6
General Tormek Questions / Re: older Tormek?
March 20, 2024, 10:12:21 AM
John,

My table saw is a 1931 Eight inch Delta tilting table saw. I have learned how to tune it and would not trade it for a new one. While a Tormek is less complicated, when I first purchased my T7, I did not know how to tune it. (I do now,)

What I want to say is a person with some machinery experience can certainly make good use of an older Tormek. A new user without this experience may have a shorter learning curve with a new, warranteed machine. If possible, find a good coach when starting out. (Your son has the ideal situation.)

Ken
#7
If you have access to a 3D printer, Rich's Projection jig is a more elegant way to set the Projection. The TTS-100 can also be used to set the Distance, as well as a square for marking the grinding wheel. For a busy woodworker, I would recommend having both.

Both the TTS-100 and Rich's jig work by using what I call the gage block principle. In precision machine shop practice, very accurate measurements can be made using precision ground hardened steel or carbide blocks. These are made in several grades, the highest grade will measure in millionths of an inch. While either of these jigs are nowhere near this super precise, they are both more precise than necessary for sharpening. Both are also repeatable. The chisels you sharpen today will have identical bevel angles to those you will sharpen months from now, without any further measuring.

Ken
#8
This seems like a good video for maintaining a T1 ( or the pads of a T2.

https://youtu.be/hKohrsHODTA?si=g788I_Jv6cvU0TUJ

Ken
#9
I would post a wanted to buy listing on some of the other forums and ebay for a SVH-60. I had two soares, but have already given them to other forum members. They were included with T-2000 models for many years. I suspect most are now unused, having been superceded bo the SE-76 and SE-77.

In the meantime, the platform jig will give trooper service. Use a small square or the TTS-100 to scribe a square line on your grinding wheel.

Ken

#10
Good thoughts, all; thank you. I think some trial and error practice runs are in order. I will kee you all posted.

Ken
#11
Dave,

I have a better idea. Use the Tormek TTS-100. Use the closer hole to set the Distance from the grinding wheel to the support bar. The two Tormek patented metal wheels automatically adjust for changes in wheel diameter. The Distance will remain constant.

Place a chisel in the jig with the Projection set close to 25 or 30°. You can check this with the Anglemaster. Fine tune your Projction if needed. Place your in jig chisel in the three slots of the TTS-100. Mark the end of the bevel with a fine tipped Sharpie, and label it (25° or 30°).

I did this with one chisel twelve years ago, and have not needed to measure a chisel or plane blade since.

Ken

PS If you add camber to your plane blades with an SE-76 using "English" you may find it useful to use the further projection hole for more flex. If you do, I suhhest using a different color Sharpie for these marks.
#12
General Tormek Questions / older Tormek?
March 18, 2024, 05:04:29 PM
I see frequent topics wondering about whether or not to purchase an older Tormek. This forum is probably the best place to ask these questions, as many of us have extensive experience with older Tormeks.

What concerns me is what I usually don't see in these topics. What is the asking price compared to the cost of a new Tormek. I do not mean to minimize the cost of a new Tormek on one's budget; however, what I have seen of used prices is often very close to the cost of a new unit. Before I purchased my T7, I knew nothing about the used Tormek market. A good used Tormek at a fair price would have been very tempting to me, even a T-2000 in good condition.

Please do not misunderstand me. A T-2000 is a solid machine, usually with many years of useful life remaining. It is compatable with all the latest jigs and accessories. With Tormek's no obsolescense policy, worn, missing, or non working parts can be replaced. Even a severe case, like a rusted shaft with a frozen grinding wheel, can be replaced. If the initial price of the used unit is low enough, even expensive repairs like this may be cost effective. However, at the listed prices I have seen, this is rarely the case.

A rebuilt older Tormek is not the same thng as a new Tormek. It normally does not have Tormek's iron clad eight year (5+3 years if registered) warranty. Tormek has incorporated many innovations over the years. I upgraded the drive wheel of my T7. The new drive wheel is zinc instead of plastic and will probably never break. The rubber wheel is a patented rubberlike surface for better performance. The paint on the housing has improved rust resistance. The present universal supports are threaded for the microadjusts. The alignment of the shaft and sleeves is more precise with the machined zinc top. The present version of the TT-50 truing tool is much improved over the T-2000 vintage truing tool and improved over the original TT-50.

Is a used T-2000 a good buy? For the right price, I would buy one, but only at the right price. I still believe a new user who does not have a trusted coach is better served with a new, fully warranted Tormek.

Ken
#13
John,
Admittedly, I have no expertise in motors. Was the machine and motor used in the seller's country before being sold?
Ken
#14
Johan,

My first question would be which electric power your country has. Thelabel on this motor looks like it says 240 volts, 50 hertz. That is the standard electric power for Europe. (For the US and Canada, it is 110 volts, 60 hertz. If the label does not match your national power, the answer is a defnite no for purchase.

You should contact Tormek support (support@tormek.se). Support works Monday through Friday. Unless you have a long enough time window to cancel, I would recommend that you cancel the sale.

Ken
#15
I appreciate all of the replies. I hope they will benefit many more members than just me.

Over the years, I have seen numerous questions from new members wanting advice to built "the ideal stand and storage area" for their Tormeks. I have been reluctant to suggest final specifications. Too much can change. I am more of a "cardboard box" kind of designer. I have a child's table top I rescued from the trash fifty years ago. I fashioned legs and supports from odd pieces of 2x4. Over the years, I have used it as a stand for a drill press, a jointer, and a couple dry grinders as well as a Tormek. I have also used my Workmate, my workbench, my dining room table, and my Tormek Work Station as work stands for my Tormek. None of these have been "ideal", although they all work.

I will adapt to my new seated working. Adapting won't be a big deal. I will share the process and appreciate your help.

Ken