Messages

Welcome to the forum, Joe.

Since you are wisely holding off with your supersteel knives and a tube of PA-70 honing compound came with your T8, I suggest you stRt with PA-70 and set the diamond compound aside. Your time learning your SG-250 and PA-70 will be well spent. This is the combination the Tormek instructors use in the online classes, and they have access to the complete Tormek lineup.

Keep us posted.

Ken

Caution:


Most of the replies here predate the introduction of both the Tormek diamond wheels and the newer CBN wheels.

Ken

In order to restore the grinding surface of the Tormek SG with fresh (sharp) grains,it is necessary to use the diamond tipped TT-50 Truing Tool. The grains are not designed to be self sharpening (friable). Although the SG is primarily designed to sharpen carbon steel, it will also sharpen hss, although more slowly. This process can be sped up by frequent light truing with the TT-50.

As hss tools became more widely used, Tormek introduced the silicone carbide SB wheel, designed to give increased performance with hss and other harder steels. Later on, Tormek introduced the diamond wheels.

I agree, requiring a replacement SG and EZYlock shaft, your SuperGrind is no longer "a bargain". However, there are thousands of SuperGrinds still in active service providing quite serviceable results. For less than the cost of adding grinding additional wheels, adding a TT-50 Truing Tool (preferably the newer version) and a US105 support bar with microadjust should give you satisfactory results.

Keep us posted.

Ken

Welcome to the forum, Gino.

I suggest that you email support (support@tormek.se) Support are the experienced experts with older models. The head of support may have actually been part of the team which built your SA-250.

Keep us posted.

Ken

"Usually" matching the existing bevel angle with the black marker will serve. Reading between the lines of the Online classes, I suspect thatis the actual commonly used method. 

Ken

Keesh,

I would consider "the ideal" grinding wheel to be aTormek wheel, around 80 grit, and 40mm thick. Unfortunately, such a wheel is not available. I do not consider my plastic pipe adaptor solution to be any where near ideal. I have found it satisfactory for initial grinding. If, like Rick, I had a machinist shop and skills, my hands down favorite would be his solution.

I would prefer a thicker wheel than 1" 25mm). .however, 1" is the standard thickness for most 8" dry grinder wheels. I did ask a Norton rep about the possibility of a 40mm thick wheel with a 12 mm bore. Norton would make this for me, with a minimum quantity of 500 wheels.

Before leaving the ideal world, for frequent sharpening if bits larger than 12 mm, a T8 or a braced T4 would be preferable.

Is the 3X wheel suitable for wet grinding? I think so, however, at $60US, I will be happy if it would last half as long as a Tormek wheel.

Ken

Welcome to the forum, John.

Let's start the conversation by talking about good lighting. For many years, my workshop was a poorly lit garage. I made the mistake of prioritizing acquiring tools over good, very good, lighting. Then one day I set up my Tormek outside in what photographers would call open shade lighting. It was very bright but not high contrast. I purchased a good LED task light and my sharpening improved.

Start with a single bench chisel. 3/4" is a good starting width. Use your DF-250 as a diamond wheel with a light touch. Before I purchased my Tormek T7 in 2009, I sharpened with oilstones, waterstones, and sandpaper after the customary friable white 80 grit six inch grinding wheel. I used hollow grinding and a microbevel. With the Tormek SG-250 andleather honing wheel I did not need the labor saving microbevel. Electricity didthe work.


Slow speed wet grinding works best for resharpening as opposed to reshaping. I classify really dull tools as border line reshaping jobs. When doing repetitive tasks like hand chopping dovetails, you can feel the difference when your chisel first starts to loseits keen edge. This is the time for light resharpening, frequent, minimal metal removing. If you do a lot of dovetailing, a second freshly sharpened chisel of the same size is much more useful than having eleven different sizes. Do not move on from this first chisel until you are completely satisfied that it is sharp. Speed will come with time.

Did your Jet machine come with the standard aluminum oxide wheel? I am not familiar with  the Jet machines. Are the Jet wheels gradable? I use my SG wheel to sharpen my 1891 vintage Stanley jack plane iron and my 1909 vintage Bedrock irons. I have never tried sharpening them with diamond wheels, so I can't speak from experience. My gut feeling is to use the ACC solution with your DF-250 wheel. (I never use my T8 diamond wheels dry or without ACC.)

Don't be in a hurry to purchase more grinding wheels. Onceyou master your present wheel, you will know from experience if you want or need any more grinding wheels.

Be patient.Study the Tormek online youtube classes. Do not be shy about posting questions on the forum; you are among friends.

Ken

One of the problems with comparing superabrasive grinding wheels (both CBN and diamond) is the source of the information. A common search seems to be trying to locate the same manufacturer as Knife Grinders used. Look at this comparison chart from the Knife Grinders website:

http://knifegrinders.com.au/11CBN.htm

Pay special attention to the wheel diameters. The Tormek is designed to use 250mm grinding wheels. Vadim of Knife Grinders was a very experienced Tormek user. His CBN wheels were 250mm, just like the Tormek diamond wheels. He was the firstCBN vendor to do so. Adapting 254mm wheels to use with a Tormek is an after thought.The oversize diameter adds a needless constraint. Yes, they can be adapted to the Tormek, however, that is not their primary use.

Some CBN vendors have posted videos on using their wheels. I have not found any using a Tormek, only higher speed dry grinders (which they also sell). Ihave even seen vendor videos showing how to scrub wheels with Blaster solvent, something unnecessary with diamond wheels used with ACC.

I have no problem with any vendor promoting his own products, including Tormek, as long as conflicts of interest are noted.

Ken

Welcome to the forum, Baine.

I suggest you study the following Online classes from Tormek's youtube channel:

https://www.youtube.com/live/R2ifZQOJA7k?si=HdAwzwAfLIbZCJ7j

https://www.youtube.com/live/PrRwBTil1l8?si=WI7taCgIjWfCWH41

You are with friends; don't be shy about asking questions.

Ken

Looking at Tormek's photos of the SVM-00, the jig is always shown with larger wooden handled carving knives. I have no doubt that this jig works well with these knives. I do not believe it works as well with small blades with folding pocket knives. In my opinion, the homemade small platforms developed by forum members work much better. These are generally called "Herman's Homemade Small Platforms" or occasionally Ionut's. Whereas the larger Tormek platform workswell with larger tools suchas turning scrapers, the platform is too wide to be used on double beveled knives without resetting the platform to allow full length grinding on both bevels.

The small platform's width is no wider than the grinding wheel, thus allowing both sides to be ground full length without needing to remount the jig.This definitely improves sharpening speed.

Ken

Kees,

As I was getting ready topost this, I noticed Rick's reply. Rick, he has a T4, so no SB option is possible. However, keep reading:

Here is what I did to solve a very similar problem: (It works very well with the T4) You need a Norton 3X grinding wheel, either 46 or 80 grit. It costs around $60US. For heavy drill bit grinding, I might favor the 46 grit, although either grit will work. You will want the eight inch diameter. It comes with a one inch bore and step down reducers to 5/8". I used a short piece of 5/8" OD plastic pipe.
The ID is 7/16". You need to bore this out with either a 12mm or 31/64" drill bit.You may have to enlarge the hole slightly by drilling slightly off straight. Get a three pack of fender washers with 12mm inside diameter. (The 3X wheel in only one inch thick.

This is a somewhat primitive, but adequate fix. Rick Kruger had a much more elegant fix. He machined a bushing. You might want to talk with a local machinist. This neither complicated nor time consuming.

Use the 3X wheel with water. I used a diamond T dressing tool. Rick has used his TT-50.

Two untried ideas: You might try a dremel with a carbide cut off cutter. I would think a 3D printed bushing might work well.

Keep us posted.

Ken

Jeff,

The Calcapp program that CB mentioned is accurate, quick to learn and use, and uncomplicated. That stated, the new Tormek KS-123 knife setting tool has large made setting programs not as essential as before. I think a combination of the KS-123 and Calcapp as a ready reserve should cover the waterfront.

Ken

Steve,

One of the rare opportunities I have had has been getting to know and work with Stig Reitan. For many years, Stig was one of Tormek's top demonstrators. I continue to watch and recommend the online class with Stig. Stig has a real love of knives. His wife is a gourmet cook and he keeps their Japanese knives in top condition.

Being retired, I was able to spend the weekend in Hartville during the big shows. I spent almost the entire shows observing and talking with Stig. When he was busy, I watched. During slow periods, I had plenty of questions for him. It was wonderful one on one training. As his sharpening skills developed, his technique intensified and simplified. Among other things, he essentially stopped using his 4000 grit Japanese grinding wheel. He became quite expert using the SG-250 with the grading stone and the leather honing wheel with PA-70 honing compound. This is to explain why I would recommend not being in a hurry to purchase the 4000 grit wheel.

The diamond wheels have some unique advantages, as does the SG. The SG can be easily graded to cover a range of grits. If it is damaged or needs to be refreshed, the TT-50 can restore it. Using the KS-123 makes compensating for wheel diameter changes a very minor inconvenience. The SG can also be reshaped with radiused corners to sharpen concave knives.

If you do decide to switch to diamond wheels, I suggest doing so while your SG has useful life remaining. Even if diamond wheels become your primary wheels, there are times when the SG is the first choice.

Ken

Steve,

My opinion may not be popular with many forum members. However, The KJ-45 you ordered is the only current model. The end stop is non adjustable, which makes it somewhat slower to use. For users on a farmers market schedule (100 knives in four hours), this could be a handicap. However, there are both pros and cons with the new jig.

How many knives do you plan to sharpen? I suspect that most of us, including me, might sharpen no more than a dozen, probably two or three times per year. Especially when the KJ-45 is used with the new KS-123 set up tool, the time per knife should be close and not a problem. The KJ-45, especially when used with the new KS-123 setting tool, work very well together. Both are reasonably priced, around $50US each. Unless you sharpen thin flexible fillet knives longer than 160mm, you won't need the longer KJ-140 jig (If at some point you decide you want one, you can always purchase it separately).

My suggestion would be to use the KJ-45 jig you have ordered and plan to get a KS-123 soon. In the meantime, you can use the marker method. Be sure to watch the online classes on both of these.

Keep us posted.

Ken

Welcome to the forum, Tony.

I agree, we are an ingenious bunch, made better by sharing our ideas. Even today, the Tormek jig for small knives is really designed for wooden handled carving knives rather than small knives made of metal. our small platform, being the width of the grinding wheel, lets us sharpen both sides of a blade without having to reposition the jig.

Ken