Messages

Welcome to the forum, Hugh.

Let me take two guesses, hopefully favoring the scientific portion of SWAG (Scientific Wild Ass Guesses).

First: When you use the Anglemaster, is the angle pointer positioned so that the bottom touches the grinding wheel?

Second: Since the 5° error seems consistent, especially since these are school machines, is it possible that your pointers may be worn. We have had a few posts where these are the problem. I suspect that this wear occurs from measuring while the machine is still running, but that's just a guess.

Third, I would suggest that you email support (support@tormek.com) The two pointers are both available as replacement parts. I do not speak for Tormek; however, I would not be at all surprised if Tormek gifted you the spare parts. Support is very experienced and dedicated.

Please keep us posted.

Ken

Well stated, Rick.

Ken

Alston,

I remember when Wootz of KnifeGrinders introduced this video. It caused a lot of interest on the forum. Some of us used metal sleeves. Some of us made sleeves using painter's tape. I used plastic pipe. All of these did in fact raise the speed of the grinding wheel.

I have not seen posts recently promoting the speed acceleraters!. I suspect they have proved a flash in the pan and fallen into disuse. If you want to try using one, other third party vendors may still sell them. They are not expensive. (Knife Grinders closed after the death of the owner.) Making one of painter's tape is cheap and easy.

My personal opinion is that the Tormek engineers could easily have increased the speed IF they felt it was beneficial. They chose not to do so; therefore I have stayed with their preferred speed.

Regarding using CBN wheels dry, this is how they are designed AND to be used this way with high speed dry grinders. I first investigated them before Tormek introduced diamond wheels. At the time, all of the CBN instructional videos used high speed dry grinders with turning tools. One vendor voided the warranty if the wheels were used wet. In fairness, the problem was due to careless use, rather than the wheels themselves. CBN wheels, like any grinding wheels, should not be left in water when not in use. My original CBN wheels were steel. Used in plain water, they rusted quickly. When I added Honerite Gold, I no longer had the rust problem.

Ken

Welcome to the forum, Johann. My thoughts will probably differ from many on the forum. Please note that I am not saying that other thoughts are wrong, just that mine differ.

I think relying entirely on grit size is an oversimplification. Over the years, I have heard several grit numbers for PA-70. I have also noticed that the 360 grit DC diamond wheels cut faster than the 220 grit SG wheels. I have no special training in abrasives; I am just basing this on my observations.

Here is my suggestion to answer your question: Sharpen two chisels around 3/4" width. The two sizes don't have to be identical, as long as they are close. The backs don't even have to be polished for this test. Go through your normal sharpening sequence:
1) SG graded coarse.
2) SG graded fine (do not skip this step)
3) SJ

I suggest using two chisels because the large bevels are very visible. Add using the leather honing wheel with PA-70 to one chisel. Compare the scratch patterns of the two chisels.

Continue with sharpening using the leather honing wheel and PA-70 on half the tools. You will answer your own question.

Keep us posted.

Ken

Like Rich, I have an AX-40. It looks very impressive, although, not having an ax or hatchet, I have not used it yet. It is certainly leagues more advanced than the original jig, which was the longest lasting of the original Tormek jigs.

I would point out that it doesn't work withdouble bit axes or half hatchets (with hammer heads).With these two exceptions, it is a very flexible jig and holds the axes quite securely.

Ken

I received an email from my longtime friend, forum member Grepper, informing me that our friend, Mike Brubacher, had passed away. Mike was the inventor of the Edge on Up testers and the BESS system. He was a smart and good hearted guy. Grepper knew him better than I did, so I will post Grepper's notice from the Bessex group
(the forum for BESS users):

"It is with a heavy heart I say that Mike Brubacher passed away last night, 2025/01/30, about 11:00 pm.

For those of you who don't know, Mike invented our edge sharpness testing instruments, the PT50 series, Edge Lab, the BESS (Brubacher Edge Sharpness Scale), was the founder of Edge On Up and changed the world of edge sharpness testing.  A truly amazing man.  Thank you Mike!

Temperature used to be described with words like "chilly" or "freezing" or whatever.  In the 1600's European physicist Daniel Gabriel Fahrenheit gave the world a way to measure temperature and describe it to others in numerical degrees.  Now we can say it's 34° F. 
 
Before Mike, sharpness was described as "scary sharp", "razor sharp", etc.  Mike gave the world the ability to share exactly how sharp an edge is and affordable equipment to test it.  Instead of "shaving sharp", thanks to Mike, now we can say the edge is BESS 134 and everyone world wide can know exactly what that means.

The ability to communicate edge sharpness is revolutionary, changed the sharpening world, and we all have Mike Brubacher to thank for it.  He was an amazing man.

On a personal note, Mike and I were close friends.  I already miss being able to share life moments and thoughts with him.  I feel so lucky our life paths crossed."

Ken

Bravo, Dad and Daughter!!!!

Ken

Welcome to the forum, Michael.

I suggest that you email support. (support@tormek.se) for your parts request.

A small tube of white lithium grease works very well for the shaft.

Ken

Jan Svancara was one of the brightest stars on this forum. He shone in so many aspects of sharpening.

My first memory of Jan were his restoration of his grandfather's ancient mortising chisel. His love and respect for his grandfather resonated with me. While honoring his past, Jan was also forward looking. He was a professor of engineering in his native Czech Republic. He took great joy in tutoring his thirteen year old granddaughter in physics. As part of her learning program, she regularly followed this forum.

Always wanting to broaden his mind, Jan studied with an English language tutor. He balanced this with sharing some of his Czech heritage on the forum. He could balance his highly trained engineering mind with well grounded practicality. I felt honored when he saw the value in my kenjig (based on Dutchman's tables). One of Jan's favorite sayings was "Iron sharpens iron; one man sharpens another". Jan was an early believer in the kenjig. He adopted my 139mm Projection into his knife sharpening technique. Jan's vote of confidence and his improvements made me a sharper man and the kenjig sharper.

When Jan passed away, he left us with his many posts. Those of us who are innovative would do well from studying his posts. Jan often used a building set similar to an Erector set to construct his ideas. Among them was a very solid drill bit jig.

Jan was a good man; I miss him.

Ken

The latest version of the TT-50 truingtool is definitely worth having.

Ken

Rick, the link tothe online class:

https://www.youtube.com/live/Gg4R9jxtKfI?si=Fs98j1bpYkGkQzf0

Ken

Welcome to the forum, Chris. I am not familiar with a Tormek SAB-250 model. I suggest that you email support (support@tormek.se) The head of support is a veteran employee who may well have been part of the crew which built your Tormek. Be sure to include the video with your email.

Please share your reply on the forum.

Ken

Kev,

Yes, it is possible "to keep throwing money at the Tormek system", if you choose to do so. However; that is not the only choice available. Two of the most expensive Tormek items are the 4000 grit SJ wheel and the DBS-22 drill bit jig. The SJ will do a superb job with shelf princess knives and tools. For most working tools, it is overkill. The DBS-22 is Tormek's most advanced jig, capable of more versatility that only a specialist or Tormek junkie needs.

For basic woodworking tools and knives, only a very few basic jigs and the standard issue SG wheel are all that is needed. I have a knife jig from before 1992 which still functions as well as when it was new and a square edge jig made before my T7 in 2009. I have chosen to purchase newer jigs which are easier to use; however, that was my choice, and not a requirement.

Do a computer search for "kenjig instructions". You will find the PDF I wrote describing the kenjig knife setting tool I invented many years ago. While largely eclipsed today, in my opinion, it remains the fastest way to set knives. It is essentially one small piece of plywood. Early versions and "one offs" for things like my vegetable cleaver are quickly made of cardboard.

I have made several small knife platforms and bushings from plastic pipe.

You can choose to throw lots of money at a Tormek system if you wish to. However; many Tormeks approaching fifty years of service are still in use, being powered by electric drills. I consider the Tormek to be a good longterm investment.

Ken

PS If you discover any useful homemade accessories, please sharethem on the forum. Over the years, many useful ideas have begun on the forum.

Welcome to the forum, Espen.


Please give us more information in order to give you more informed replies. My first recommendation for a hobbiest would be the SG wheel. With the stone grader, you will have 220 and 1000 grit, all the grit range you will need.

Let us know if you have special needs.

Ken

Rich,

Your post strikes a note with me. I have a favorite Tinker with a blade worn prematurely from overzealous sharpening with my SG. Unless one of my SAK blades is damaged, I will start with my SJ.

Thanks for posting.

Ken