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Jan Svancara was one of the brightest stars on this forum. He shone in so many aspects of sharpening.

My first memory of Jan were his restoration of his grandfather's ancient mortising chisel. His love and respect for his grandfather resonated with me. While honoring his past, Jan was also forward looking. He was a professor of engineering in his native Czech Republic. He took great joy in tutoring his thirteen year old granddaughter in physics. As part of her learning program, she regularly followed this forum.

Always wanting to broaden his mind, Jan studied with an English language tutor. He balanced this with sharing some of his Czech heritage on the forum. He could balance his highly trained engineering mind with well grounded practicality. I felt honored when he saw the value in my kenjig (based on Dutchman's tables). One of Jan's favorite sayings was "Iron sharpens iron; one man sharpens another". Jan was an early believer in the kenjig. He adopted my 139mm Projection into his knife sharpening technique. Jan's vote of confidence and his improvements made me a sharper man and the kenjig sharper.

When Jan passed away, he left us with his many posts. Those of us who are innovative would do well from studying his posts. Jan often used a building set similar to an Erector set to construct his ideas. Among them was a very solid drill bit jig.

Jan was a good man; I miss him.

Ken

The latest version of the TT-50 truingtool is definitely worth having.

Ken

Rick, the link tothe online class:

https://www.youtube.com/live/Gg4R9jxtKfI?si=Fs98j1bpYkGkQzf0

Ken

Welcome to the forum, Chris. I am not familiar with a Tormek SAB-250 model. I suggest that you email support (support@tormek.se) The head of support is a veteran employee who may well have been part of the crew which built your Tormek. Be sure to include the video with your email.

Please share your reply on the forum.

Ken

Kev,

Yes, it is possible "to keep throwing money at the Tormek system", if you choose to do so. However; that is not the only choice available. Two of the most expensive Tormek items are the 4000 grit SJ wheel and the DBS-22 drill bit jig. The SJ will do a superb job with shelf princess knives and tools. For most working tools, it is overkill. The DBS-22 is Tormek's most advanced jig, capable of more versatility that only a specialist or Tormek junkie needs.

For basic woodworking tools and knives, only a very few basic jigs and the standard issue SG wheel are all that is needed. I have a knife jig from before 1992 which still functions as well as when it was new and a square edge jig made before my T7 in 2009. I have chosen to purchase newer jigs which are easier to use; however, that was my choice, and not a requirement.

Do a computer search for "kenjig instructions". You will find the PDF I wrote describing the kenjig knife setting tool I invented many years ago. While largely eclipsed today, in my opinion, it remains the fastest way to set knives. It is essentially one small piece of plywood. Early versions and "one offs" for things like my vegetable cleaver are quickly made of cardboard.

I have made several small knife platforms and bushings from plastic pipe.

You can choose to throw lots of money at a Tormek system if you wish to. However; many Tormeks approaching fifty years of service are still in use, being powered by electric drills. I consider the Tormek to be a good longterm investment.

Ken

PS If you discover any useful homemade accessories, please sharethem on the forum. Over the years, many useful ideas have begun on the forum.

Welcome to the forum, Espen.


Please give us more information in order to give you more informed replies. My first recommendation for a hobbiest would be the SG wheel. With the stone grader, you will have 220 and 1000 grit, all the grit range you will need.

Let us know if you have special needs.

Ken

Rich,

Your post strikes a note with me. I have a favorite Tinker with a blade worn prematurely from overzealous sharpening with my SG. Unless one of my SAK blades is damaged, I will start with my SJ.

Thanks for posting.

Ken

Welcome to the forum, Kev.

Several years ago, the handbook said that knives could only be honed freehand with the T4. Looking critically at my T4, I realized that the problem was caused by the the locking screws of the knife jig, sleeves(the horizontal tubes which hold the support bars and a high spot on the knife jig bumping into the support bar. The easiest way to prevent this is with the Tormek MB-102. In addition to being a Frontal Vertical Base, the MB-102 also allows accurate flat grinding with diamond wheels using the side.

If the knife is too long for the standard US-103 support, the longer US-430 support bar will correct this. For my tests, I was able to both grind and hone (using the knife jig and leather honing wheel) with my T4 and a ten inch chef knife.

I am reluctant to push people into purchasing more jigs and accessories. In your case, since you already have the diamond wheels, I believe the MB-102 will do double duty. Watch the online class covering it. If any of your knives are too long for your support bar, the US-430 will fill the bill and also be a useful second support bar.

Keep us posted.

Ken

John,

The online class would have been worthwhile staying up for. I hope you can catch it on the channel. Among other things, it had more good information about the SB-250 than I have seen since it was introduced in 2009. For a long time I have felt it was unfortunately overlooked in favor of the diamond wheels. After watching the online class, if I was starting out, I would make it the first wheel I would purchase after the SG-250.

I do regret that Tormek has not included an SB-200 wheel in its lineup. When Tormek introduced the T4, they introduced a solid, professional 200mm machine, which deserves its own SB-200.

The coverage of the SJ-250 has inspired me to put mine back into active service again after several inactive years. I learned that my FVB could be used in the grinding into direction as well as grinding away.

The diamond wheels and SG-250 are also well covered. The use of a digital microscope was well done. Be sure to watch the q and a at the end. Your time will be well spent.

Thank you, Sébastien and Wolfgang.

Ken

John,

If you move to the Eastern Time Zone in the US, you can enjoy the live class with your second cup of morning coffee. . . .

Seriously, although I try to view the classes live, you can get the benefit of the classes afterward at your convenience. Also, the benefits increase from second watchings.

Ken

 
Discover the difference between Tormek grinding wheels – Live Sharpening Class
After a long, dark Swedish winter, the spring sun is finally shining in again — and it's the perfect time to take your sharpening to the next level. In this upcoming episode of Tormek's Live Sharpening Classes, we'll guide you through the unique features of each grinding wheel and take a really close look at the results you can expect.

We'll answer key questions like:
✅ How much does the result actually vary between our diamond wheels?
✅ Do you really need the Japanese Waterstone to achieve a mirror finish?

Whether you're a seasoned sharpener or just getting started, this is your opportunity to get hands-on insights and ask questions live.
 

🗓 Join us on Wednesday and bring your questions to the live chat!
When?
Wednesday, April 16, 3.30 sharp!😉
(3.30 PM, Swedish time, CET / 9.30 AM, US Eastern Time, ET)
 
Watch it on YouTube
 
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I don't disagree with tgbto. However, while the larger wheels last longer, the replacement cost is also higher. I suspect most Tormek users, of both sizes, will not wear out their initial wheels. Those realistically anticipating high volume, should probably favor the larger wheels.

Theoretically, a larger wheel will grind flatter. However, using my "test chisels" I sharpened two identical 3/4" wide chisels. One was with a T8; one was with a T4.Using a straightedge, I could not see any difference. The hollow grinding discussion goes back several decades to when most people used six inch high speed dry grinders. At that diameter, the hollow grind is easily visible.

Yes, the smaller wheel is 40mm wide and the larger wheel is 50 mm wide. I like wider wheels, although I have used one inch (25mm) wide wheels on my Tormek with no problems. Regardless of width, good truing is essential.

My final thought is if you will look back, wanting the larger model, just bite the bullet and get the T8. You won't go wrong.

Ken

The present 200 mm Tormek T4 is certainly not "a poor relation to the 250 models". In fact, the advanced precision machined zinc top of the flagship T8 is based on the T4. The T4 has the same "continuous duty" motor rating as the T8. The same jigs fit either size.

The choice of size should be based on the intended use. The T8 is the logical choice for a fixed location heavy duty "factory" environment. The T4 really shines in more portable and mobile environments. In the long run, any cost difference is minimal.

Ken

Welcome to the forum, Bill.

This online class will answer your questions:

https://youtu.be/38c95D6z5D8?si=u4pHQvULVDfsIVhc

Håkan Persson is a recognized expert in "superabrasives" which includes both diamonds and CBN.Diamond wheels are best used with ACC solution, although they may also be used dry.

Ken

John,

Thank you for posting the link to this informative video. While not actually being demonstrated on a Tormek, the principles certainly apply.

One of my influential sharpening mentors is Jeff Farris, the founder and first moderator of this forum. Jeff wisely took steps to eliminate as many gremlins as possible during his demonstrations. His demo knives of choice were Victorinox Fibrox chef knives. These have a long reputation for good steel at a reasonable price. They are consistently highly rated popular knives for culinary students. I have long advocated them for learning how to use the Tormek. I totally agree with tip number four in this video.

One lesson I learned slowly was the importance of using the stone grader to lessen the scratch pattern, especially when used in combination with lighter final passes. A lighter final pass was highlighted in the T2 online class, although the benefit applies to all Tormeks.

I have made it my custom to study sharpening videos almost daily. My sharpening is almost entirely doen on a Tormek, although many of the videos I study, like John, use different tools. Sharp is sharp, regardless of the tools employed, although I confess a preference for Tormek.

Keep up the good work, John.

Ken