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John, I think you are off to a very good start.  Keep at it, and keep us posted.

Ken

Good answer, Jeff.  It gave me a good laugh, as well as being informative.

Ken

No mention has been made of "Chinese" cleavers.  These are lighter weight cleavers designed primarily for cutting vegetables.  I eat very little meat, so my need is for vegetables.  My Chinese cleaver does this very well.  It does a great job of cutting cabbage.  A more acute edge, maybe combined forty degrees, should work well for these knives.  Next time I sharpen it, I will try my version of the Ionut/Herman jig.  I store it in a plastic edge guard from Lee Valley, as it does not fit inmost wooden knife blocks.

Ken

Mark, the less macho way might be to purchase a good, but not absolute tops pair of pinking shears and sharpen them a few times.  As they would already be sharp, removing just a minuscule amount of steel with the magic marker should do the trick.  Doing this a few times would give you the confidence and skill to try someone else's shears.  (You could also have them try cutting with the shears you had just sharpened.)

I don't know very much about salon scissors.  My wife has a pair she uses on me and family members.  She bought them through a friend who cuts her hair.  Cosmetology schools seem plentiful.  The many students need workable scissors at student budget prices.  Surely you could find some inexpensive scissors of reasonable quality for sharpening training purposes.  Yes, there are some big bucks prestige salons.  But there are a lot of low budget salons of hard working people trying to make a living.

I will ask my wife's friend about economical scissors.  You might also make inquiries.  Tom should know.    Posting the results might be of interest to many on the forum.

Ken

I can't write about the Drill Doctor, as I have no experience with it. 

With the DBS-22, matching the two flutes of the bit is no problem.  Once the depth is set, just grind one side and flip the bit holder over.  The two flutes match.

Getting the two primary facets to line up is not necessarily automatic.  Someone with more experience than I have with it might have a better system.  For me, there is some trial and error with the process.  I think there may be a correlation between the amount of offset between the leading edges of the primary facets and the depth of cut needed to align them.  That seems logical to me, however, I have not found it mentioned in the Tormek videos or written instructions.  Measuring the offset, especially on smaller bits, might be difficult.  With practice, "eyeballing it" may work well.

I was able to grind the two facets in alignment with very little fussing around.  My radial alignment of the bit was a bit off, so my primary facets are not exactly parallel.  They seem close enough to work well.

If you have access to the finewoodworking.com website, do a search on "drill bits Ernie Conover".  Ernie has done an excellent you tube on precision wood drilling with twist bits.  Ernie is a first-rate woodworker and teacher.  He and his father designed and manufactured the wonderful Conover lathes, so Ernie is also a no slouch machinist.  In a nutshell, his recommendation for drilling a precisely sized hole in wood with a twist bit is to do in in three stages.  Stage one is a small pilot hole.  (This essentially eliminates the need for a four faceted bit.)  Stage two is to use a bit just undersized.  Stage three is to use the exact size bit.  Not super quick, but quite accurate.  (Isn't that the real goal in good work?) 

I have found the quickest way to use the DBS-22 is to sneak up on both the primary and secondary facets.  It adds very little time to the process and vastly improves the results.  If you happen to overshoot the mark, a little regrinding quickly saves the day.  (It also shortens the life of the bit; your grandson may have to replace it.)

Where the DBS-22 really shines is in versatility.  It enables you to custom grind a bit for different materials and clearances.  That is probably beyond the practical needs of most of us, but it is fascinating.  I wish I had had one when I was field sharpening my long telephone bits with a hand file (the wood bits which I file to a ninety degree point to penetrate softwood quickly) and the long carbide bits which I just leaned on more.

The four facet grind shines when no pilot hole is drilled.  For larger, really clean holes, it's hard to beat a sharp Forstner bit. (Lee Valley sells them in well made high speed steel, also.)

So, to answer your question, the DBS-22 does indeed make precise sharpening possible.  It's just not automatic and needs some operator skill.  (That's part of the fun.)

Ken

Herman,

I believe Leonard Lee has a wise thought about drill bits in his sharpening book.  He recommends purchasing high quality American made high speed bits.  They stay sharper longer. (He also happens to sell them, however, I believe his recommendation is solid and honest.)

The smallest bit I have sharpened with the DBS-22 is 3/8".  Next time out, I should try a 1/8" bit.  For bits smaller than that, I suspect Lee's advice is the best course of action.  Bits that small are more prone to breakage, so I would suggest purchasing more than one at a time.

Ken

Herman, I'll stand by my last quote.  You do get a Cadillac tool for a Cadillac price.  I've never owned or wanted to own a Cadillac.  I'm more comfortable in a humble Chevy.  However, I do like the Cadillac DBS-22.  I truly believe anyone on this forum could learn how to sharpen drill bits with a grinder and no jig.  The question is how many of us would take the time to learn the skill.Even the argument about conserving one's precious tools doesn't really hold water.  how many eight dollar drill bits would be required to become proficient in hand sharpening?  I would think that by the third bit most of us would be reasonably proficient.

The humble General jig would doubtless be more than adequate given the operator skill to use it well.

So would the Drill Doctor.

So, why the DBS-22?  With practice, it will do pristine four facet sharpening.  After all, if we really wanted to go with the low bid, why would we be on the Tormek forum?

Herman, my suggestion would be to talk with your local Tormek dealer and see of any woodworking shows are scheduled for between now and Christmas.  Often the Tormek and accessories are available at  20% discount, something any Santa's helper would appreciate. 

Ken

I believe acquired his experience one blade at a time........

(As far as I know, that method still works.)

"The life so short, the craft so hard to learn."

Ken

Your wife is lucky to have such a literary spouse.......

I'm pleased you guys have found the recommended books useful.  While I believe in the value of hands on experience, I do believe we can shorted and deepen the learning experience by well written books, articles and videos.

Ken

Jeff, I think it would be good to add a sentence or two about oiling the leather honing wheel (and accessory discs).  It could use discretely larger font size and perhaps bold.  It should include a recommended amount and type of oil and stress ONCE.  I trust your judgement.

Ken

I began my career at the telephone company in the age of the brace and bit, Star drill, and egg beater drill.  I still have them and occasionally use the brace and bit.  However, I have become a convert to power tools much (or at least some)  of the time.

I especially like the 12 volt size drill an impact driver.  In my younger days, I would have appreciated the extra power of more voltage.  Now smaller and lighter are nicer.

Ken

Goot tip, Mark.  It looks like a nice to have in reserve item for when needed.

Ken

Herman, the two guys who 1)are well known and 2) (probably more important) are very experienced in the use of the drawknife are Michael Dunbar and Brian Boggs.  Both are very accomplished chairmakers, however, they work in different styles. 
Both have made their livings using tools like drawknives.  I would suggest you google both.

Christopher Schwarz talks about the drawknife in his book The Anarchist's Toolchest.  (Don't be put off by the title; Chris explains his choice of title in the book.  By the way, this book is also on my "should have" list.)

Keep growing and keep posting.

Ken

It seems to me the only area you would need to file flat would be where the locking nut meets the threads (do it for both USB configurations.  I would keep the rest of the area full dimension.

Ken

Good thought, Herman.

Ken