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I am submitting this for forum evaluation as a start for our beginner advice sticky message.  I welcome constructive criticism, suggested additions, deletions, or changes.  I also welcome other posts. 

My suggestion would be to have this and other submitted posts available for forum criticism.  Once we feel comfortable with a reasonably "final" version (which can still be easily changed if necessary) I would give Jeff full moderator prerogative to edit, add or delete.

Please be part of the process.

Ken


Using a Tormek is like driving a stick shift car.  There is a bit of a learning curve, one which thousands of users have completed successfully.  Here is our advice to develop your "clutch foot".

Spend some time becoming very familiar with the videos on the tormek.com and sharptoolsusa.com websites.  You may have found them before even purchasing your Tormek.  Read your Tormek handbook; do not be afraid to make it your own by highlighting and flagging.  Keep it nearby.

Every Tormek user should have a Sharpie marker. The Sharpie marker, as shown in the videos and handbook, allows the user to quickly verify grinding angles.  It is an essential tool.

The first tool you should learn to sharpen is a chisel.  Regardless of what your intended use for your Tormek, if you can sharpen a chisel proficiently and fluently, you can learn other tools. A chisel is the  simplest edge to grind.  It is ground square, not angled.  The bevel angle of 25 to 30 degrees is an easy range to duplicate.  Unlike most knives, only one bevel is ground.  The full range of the Tormek is used in sharpening a chisel, initial grinding with the stone graded coarse; finer grinding with the stone graded fine; and finally, stropped with the leather honing wheel.
 
An excellent first chisel is the Irwin 3/4" Blue Chip chisel.  Why an Irwin 3/4" Blue Chip chisel?  During various posts on this forum, 3/4" has emerged as the most practical width chisel for learning how to use the Tormek.  The Blue Chip chisel has enough blade length to be a very usable first learning tool. The steel is good carbon steel. The sides are also ground square to the back of the blade with no rounding over (which would interfere with preparing the back for sharpening).  Irwin acquired Joseph Marples, the fine company which had made these good chisels for a very long time.  And, on a very practical level, these chisels are very reasonably priced.  At this writing they are available on Amazon for $8.51.  A set of four (1/4 to 1" is also available for about $25 for those who would like several practice chisels.  They are also working standard tools in many shops.

Do not just sharpen this chisel once before moving on.  Blunt the edge with a hammer or file several times and restore the edge until you become proficient.  During these practice sessions you will learn a lot about machine.  Learn to listen to the sound of the grinding.  Learn to become sensitive to the feel of the  grinding.  Learn to be consistent in setting up your machine.  Learn what a truly sharp edge is, and what it can do.

Even if you do not intend to do woodworking, go through these exercises with your chisel.  And, keep the chisel nearby.  Should a day come when your sharpening is going badly, you can always return to sharpening your chisel. This will simplify your troubleshooting.  If you can match your initial sharpening, your basic machine and wheel are functioning properly.  If not, this exercise will point you in the correct direction to solve the problem.

Getting a mindset for the grinding wheel:

All too often, new users approach the grinding wheel with a sense of reverence and feel a need to preserve it.  While proper use is important, it should be remembered that the grinding wheel is designed to be worn away during use.  Look at the wheel as you would a set of good tires or brake linings.  Good care extends their useful life, however, they are designed to be worn out.

The Tormek wheel is designed to be used as either a coarse wheel or a finer wheel, depending on how the grading stone is used.  The wheel actually has a third grading when freshly dressed with the TT-50 diamond dresser (more coarse).   Do not try to squeeze a bit more life out of your wheel or a bit of time off the sharpening operation by skipping the grading operation.  Proper use of the grader is well covered in the videos and handbook.  Follow these instructions!

Be patient and persevere.  Your Tormek skills will quickly develop.  Please feel free to participate in the forum.  We welcome you.

Herman,

I think a standard 6mm bolt would do the trick for you.  That's what I used in my jig.  (See post of earlier today.)

Ken

ps (Only a Yankee barbarian would do this.......I think the tapped hole could be redrilled and tapped for 1/4 20 thread.)

Elden,

I think the #X 46 grit wheel would be just the ticket for large drill bits.  The large grit runs cooler than finer grits.  It works quickly, and, with a light touch, leaves a surprisingly smooth surface. 

(You might want to try using a final freehand smoothing pass with the Tormek.)  Keep us posted!

Ken

Elden,

Check out my SVD-45 jig described in my recent post.  It might be just the ticket for sharpening muchos machetes.

Ken

Thanks, Elden for reviving that thread.  It was probably one of my best posts.  It sums up my philosophy of learning.  I would humbly suggest it as reading for the rest of the forum.

I never heard anything more out of Elizabeth.  I hope she is doing well.  The forum (and probably most forums) have lost many potentially very good members.  I hope more will post.

Ken

Back during the time period when Ionut made his small knife blade jig, I posted a couple ideas.  One was for a wooden jig, similar to Ionut's.  The other was essentially sawing an SVD-110 in half.  That would allow a small blade to be held on either side of the wheel, as the table would be about the same width as the wheel.

I purchased a second SVD-110 at the time, and never got around to finish the jig. 

Herman inspired me with his jig.

this afternoon I got out the SVD-110s.  one had two holes for holding screws.  I measured off a line about 1 7/8" from one side and headed toward the bandsaw.  My 1/2" 3 tpi blade made short work of the cut through the extruded aluminum.  Surprisingly, the cut was almost as smooth as the factory cut.

I knew I would need to turn the jig around to get close enough to the wheel.  I had purchased a regular 6mm short bolt to substitute for the Tormek knob.

Alas, the bolt was still too long.  I ground down the bolt on the belt grinder.  Still too long.  I filed down the threaded surface on the jig.  Still too long.  At this point I am unable to get close enough for a 20 degree bevel.

I have not given up.  I will attach something, either wood or metal on top of the jig.  It will work in time.  For now, I have an SVD-110, an SVD-70 and an SVD-45.  (wow!)

still plugging along.....

Ken

Elden,

I really like the Norton 3X 46 grit wheel on my dry grinder.  Before I added it, I was using a Norton white wheel with 80 grit.  It was quite an improvement over the regular gray wheels.  It has not been used since I added the Tormek.

When I have heavy grinding to do, the Norton 3X does the job.  How does it hold up?  I have not noticed a problem with it, but that's very unscientific.  I hold up better with it because it cuts so well.  I would not use it instead of the cooler wet wheel Tormek.  For removing decades of mushrooming on a couple splitting wedges, it was a trooper.

If you are in a hurry shaping turning tools and use a dry grinder, that's the wheel I would use.  (I have not tried it for that.)

If I was using it for any edges where I was concerned about overheating, I would dress the edge crowned, to narrow the actual cutting area.  (Joel Moskowitz' suggestion).

Ken

Well done, Herman.  You get the Yankee Ingenuity award!

Ken

Very good post, Elden.  Not only is the information quite good, it indicates awareness of a problem with keeping edges square.

I agree, Herman. It makes sense to me to become proficient with the most simple of edged tools, and then build on that proficiency.

Ken 

If someone should happen to create a masterpiece which ends up as part of an unhelpful mess, maybe the "masterpiece" should be deleted.  I say this as someone who has contributed several ideas for this project.  I am fully aware that presenting them to the forum for review and revision should help the good ideas develop and the less than good ideas will hopefully be constructively criticized and fade away.

I would think the entire project should fit onto one page.  (two at most depending on how much in included.)  Links to more detailed posts would be helpful.

Ken

Here is a thought for our stickie file:

I believe the beginning Tormek user should start with a Sharpie marker and a chisel.  I state this recommendation for all new Tormek users, not just woodworkers.

Specifically, I would recommend an Irwin 3/4" Blue Chip chisel.  These are readily available and not expensive (presently $8.51 at Amazon).  Blue Chips, formerly made by Joseph Marples of England (now part of Irwin) have been a solid chisel for many years.  The steel is well made carbon, ideal for the Tormek SG wheel.  They are a good working length, not excessively long, but with plenty of sharpening area.

The sides are ground square to the back with no rounding over to interfere with flattening.  These are an excellent learning tool as well as a very good user.

I recommend learning to sharpen a chisel first because it is the simplest edge tool.  It is ground square.  There is no camber to grind like with a plane blade.  Only one bevel is ground, unlike a knife blade.  The chisel fits easily in the basis SE-76 jig.

General chisel sharpening uses the coarse wheel setting, fine wheel setting, and leather honing.  It requires learning to be able to set a bevel and work square.

I believe when a new user can consistently sharpen a chisel well, he will be ready to move on to whatever tools he requires.

The use of the Sharpie marker for setting the bevel angle is well covered in both the handbook and Jeff's videos.  A dedicated sharpie should be kept with the Tormek.

Do not be hesitant to sharpen the Blue Chip chisel many times as part of the initial learning process.

Ken

Ionut,

Your small knife jig was a very good idea when you posted it, and it still is.  It remains one of the best examples I have seen of the potential to go beyond the basic Tormek use.  I'm glad you reposted it.

Ken

Doesn't everyone use a cold chisel for dovetails?  They can be a problem with the skinny empire dovetails fashionable across the pond.

Ken

I started in my garage.  After moving, I now use my basement shop.  A towel is a good idea, as are the magnetic bumpers to raise the side opposite the wheel.  At first not having a level horizon offended my sense of order.  Once I finally broke down and tried the risers, I don't notice the disharmony.  Being not so thrifty, I upgraded to the new water trough, which catches more of the mess.  I recommend the upgrade. 

You guys who set up in the kitchen are either single or very nervy!

Ken

Good point, Herman. Grepper and Ron, I had the same problem with my favorite (Henckel) paring knife.  As Ron Hock might say, it failed the green onion test.  (flat edge instead of a slight curve to allow rocking). 

"Not the best knife"--fine.  However, it should be a knife which you will regularly use on your cutting board. We need the use feedback.

Ken