Messages

Thanks.  Worked with a wide chisel the other day and twice ran it off the bar.
That made me remember the stop, then found I couldn't use it.  More practice of Christmas list.

Let me try to rephrase then, in a way that is more clear.
I have TWO bars.  The original, that is non threaded (fine for use with a home made bench grinder adapter).
The second, has the black, non marked nut on the threaded rod.
The new US-105 has a tapped hole on the end, for a stop (part number 3 on: http://tormek.com/international/en/grinding-jigs/se-76-square-edge-jig/) part of the SE76 jig.   I am wondering when that hole came into being a part of the bar.

Agreed.  If Tormeks were Rolexes, none of us would be on this forum.

Ken

I have a Rolex box, from a friend who used to work on them.  I could afford a free box.

Good thought, Rob.  We Neanderthals still like pencil and paper..........

Ken

Uhg, cave drawings.

I will post back tomorrow.  Been a long day and tomorrow should be longer.  Mainly got on tonight, trying to find a commercial a friend of mine is in.

I accept the horse for courses reasoning but my take is simply that its more polarised than that in other words there is a much greater bias in the direction of linisher style machines because they make the processing of most tools faster and simpler.

How are they for kitchen knives, pocket knives, and scissors?  Or do you use them mostly for turning tools.  I'm not a turner!

When you get into knife making, you will find whole groups that spend way more then the Tormek costs, on their belt grinders.
I am cheap, my Tormek with most of the turning stuff, cost me less then $200.  (then I added the hand tool kit and a few other bits)  I also have the Multitool that Jeff sells now, from when Snap on, closed them out (used to be a distributor under the Blue Point label).  They were around for $109.  I view them more as a fast stock removal tool and fabricating tool.  (although with some of the belts they are also great for cleaning off gaskets)  Jeff doesn't carry the full line of stuff for them (I don't see the adapters for certain grinders, like my Baldor, nor do I see the plane iron jig).
In my view, the Tormek is a tool maintainer, more then a reshaper.  (should be faster then by hand, after practice)

My 2000 came with a bar that has no threads or nut, and one like the earlier video's, where it has the black nut (no markings) and no hole on the end.  I didn't realize that until I tried to use the stop on the end.
When did they change and any idea of the depth and thread pitch (debating about drilling and tapping).

You said, in another thread, that your in the UK.  I don't know the places over there, but maybe this side of the ponds, diagrams will help:
http://sharptoolsusa.com/parts.finder.php?target=parts&parent=9  (models 2000 and T7)

http://sharptoolsusa.com/parts.finder.php?target=parts&parent=27 (says T3 so unsure about the 1200)

You might have to measure the outside diameter and shaft diameter and ask your local place, because the part number for the bushings/bearing, matches.

Mine is the older 2000 model.  Pretty sure that a switched outlet would work.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           

One reason I like the idea of the metal table, is the legs could be cut down,

I remembered seeing a comment about this in another subject (flattening tool backs), so I went looking.  (I am not sure I am comfortable flattening the back with the Tormek yet, and since my old method works....)
Anyway here was the thread: http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=1933.msg9831#msg9831
Herman Trivilino posted this link: http://tormek.com/media/100841/se76_factors_en.pdf which does deal some with small chisels.  I do remember the training stuff said to start with a 3/4" chisel to learn technique (and it is easier to see if out of square).
Otherwise, I still consider myself too new to chime in.


And thanks for the reminder (forgot to email Ken about the foot switch I read in that thread).

Edit, thanks, not sure why my link has those question marks.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3n4GzXVQvUE&list=UUDXjZxWuwVvvtibuMVuUnWw

Jeff says he does it free hand, and the above video, I think is to get you used to using it first, so you know what angles/how to hold it. (muscle memory) When I first read this, I thought you were talking about just the back.  Reading more I am not sure.  I would think with a lot of chisels it would come naturally after a while. 

On the other hand, one tool I can see staying with the bar and jig for:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UC1w8kLvo14&list=UUd7yqvqF2BuoHNCuw8GMGRg
Since I am not a turner, yet, I can see the need there.

http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/dept/TH/item/MS-SSS

This is what got my attention.  I have access to some equipment, via a friends restaurant (fixed various pieces of equipment over the years, he isn't mechanically inclined).  Costco has one (24" square) under $100 and I figure I can easily make drawers to size and keep everything together.  Also these type of tables, you can add wheels to.

The sushi chef I know says he sharpens his knife every night by hand.  He doesn't wait for it to get dull.

That is along the lines of what I was thinking.  Using the SJ stone more as a maintainer.

On another note, the last of my "needed" Tormek stuff arrived yesterday.  (Turner setting tool and video)  Prior owner didn't have those, or know where they went.  Good thing too, because I picked up an old 1940 lathe at a garage/pre estate sale.

Several of the videos I have seen, say sushi chefs like to go to a much higher grit then the base Tormek stone.  (specifically sushi chefs)
Since the Japanese chef I know isn't in town (works in Omaha), I am wondering if you, Herman think the SJ stone might be better for SOME things, or if it is more just a personal preference?

Thanks