Messages

I have a T2000, a T7, and a T2.  The T2 is what I use for knives.

One or two would work, but when you have different diameter wheels, YES, you have to adjust the supports to keep the angles.  That and my experience with the T2, make me want the diamond wheels.  Not sure which is better, the course diamond wheel, or SG wheel for rough shaping.

I've used mini ziploc  type of bags (ones that came holding little screws with purchases).  I can pull the magnet out of the bag, over the trash and  the metal falls down into it.

For experimentation Ken, may I suggest Update International knives.  Basically a lower priced Victorinox.

Bumping this (Ken?), so maybe someone will explain the difference between the T2 wheel and the wheels for the full size T series?

Two questions:
How long does a wheel at rest take to dry, verses one spinning on the Tormek, with no water (air circulation)?
Do the stone wheels dry slower then the diamond wheels, same time, faster? 

The T2000/7/8 are designed that they can run pretty much all the time, I would be tempted to leave my stone wheels running on them.

Well, aside from the dubious interest from an energy standpoint, you may have to factor in the fact that rotating the wheels will also prevent some water from dripping off the wheel (the swiss cheese fondue effect ?). But that's an unexpected question.

As for the comparison between stone and diamond, the answer is clear: the diamond wheels sry MUCH faster as they don't soak up at all. The SG stone probably stores around 1 liter of water.

Not sure what you mean by dubious interest?
While I expect there may be less dripping, my one trial of leaving the wheel spinning after using, makes me think the wheel drys quicker from the air circulation.
Then, LONG ago (I think the post I remember is from when Jeff Farris ran this show) I believe there was something about wet wheels going out of round, quicker, if stopped in the same place, regularly.
I would be inclined to hang the diamond wheels elsewhere, for drying, more readily then the stone wheels.  Maybe close to a fan. (have a fan, older then me, that was always on my grandfathers bench)  The less I have to move the stone wheels, the less chance of dropping, IMHO.

There are a lot of posts I have missed, since life got in the way.  I think last time I was on the forum, the diamond wheels had just been announced, and I was trying to find the price.
I am sure there are posts that discuss things that I wonder, like why do the diamond wheels need to be used in water, verses the diamond wheel on the T2?  (currently the one machine of the three I own, that I have handy, the T7 and T2000 are elsewhere)  I just learned last night, that there is a new honing wheel, that requires no compound (interested in comparison posts).

How about a rubber mat underneath that (like one that comes with a dish rack)?

Two questions:
How long does a wheel at rest take to dry, verses one spinning on the Tormek, with no water (air circulation)?
Do the stone wheels dry slower then the diamond wheels, same time, faster? 

The T2000/7/8 are designed that they can run pretty much all the time, I would be tempted to leave my stone wheels running on them.

I thought this had been brought up before... but I don't see where the T-2 is "NSF Certified".

You are correct, it is not certified.  I do not have any idea if/when they will submit it for that, but based on the prior model and what I have seen on marketing/how/to who sold, it is my belief that it has been designed for it.

Welcome to the forum, Kenc. That's good information about bolt grades. Is there any difference between grades in corrosion resistance?

Ken (S)

I don't know specifics, but I would say yes when it comes to grade 8 (the yellowish coating they have, as they tend to be used on machinery like cars) or stainless.  When I worked in a garage, it was grade 8 for frame work, and if a bolt was screwed up holding down something like the battery tray or an alternator bolt, lower grades were ok.

The reason for no water use with the T2 wheels, is your local health departments and :
http://www.nsf.org/consumer-resources/what-is-nsf-certification

The T2 was designed to be run dry, to meet regulatory requirements of the respective countries.  Where you would simply use a light touch, run the knife dry, then buff and then wash/rinse/sanitize. (three step process)  Although based on discussions with some chef's I know, many knives are actually just done via the wash (by hand) rinse, method.
Besides all that, it helps keep knives (a consumable/equipment/tax deduction), sharp, but the tool itself is a consumable/equipment/tax deduction.

Misunderstood, or explained badly, to a not target or language speaking audience?

I have been interested in 3d printing for some time.  However I can't afford one that fits my needs (size/prints in metal).
That said, today's 3d printing is at the stage that would equal computers in the early 80's, when there were more competitors and OS's (Apple II, Commodore, 8086).  I expect it to be a lot more useful in 10 to 20.

Picture the head of the bolt and it will let you know.
https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Printable-Tools/Fastener-Basics.pdf

I found this useful for people that haven't yet learned how to read a bolt.
Also, with a long enough bolt, inserted at a slight angle, one wouldn't need the bolt to have a head and it would be more like a tire stud used on some cars (VW for example) to help align and hang the tire, until the first lug is tightened down.  (useful tool for side of road/flat tire changes)

Thank you.  Now for the outdoor hunting video.....

SADW,

The grit numbers are not the whole story. Working with diamond wheels really is different than working with what Tormek now calls "the original Tormek wheels".

Back to grit size. I have used the coarse grit, 360 grit, more than the other two grits. Both the new 250mm diameter and the T2 version seem to cut the same. I find they cut more aggressively than the SG or SB graded coarse. I do not completely understand why. My guess is that the grains are sharper. They not only start cutting better, they retain that cutting level. (These statements are based on the wheels after preliminary breaking in.)


Ken

I have used the fine that comes with the T2, and it certainly does what it was designed for.  I have some other uses that I expect the coarse would be better suited for. (taking chips out of old blades/tool restoration, and other metal shaping work that may deal with things such as 7075 aluminum)
While the diamond is harder then stone, and the grains I do expect would be sharper (hardness, how shaped both by nature and man), I also expect the binding agent of the stone plays a part.  (as it comes off and sticks via surface tension, it would effectively change the grit/fill in voids, between the grains)
My want, is all three stones, my budget, may only allow for one at a time, hence my wondering and trying to fulfill certain needs.

Did you get paperwork with these wheels?
What are the grits (particularly the course)?  I tried to find it via the buying site the other day, and didn't.

How do the wheels deal with the water?  I wouldn't expect them to retain it, like a stone wheel, so I am wondering about using a sponge to get off any moisture that you might be trying to save.  (squeeze it into a container that is sitting on something magnetic, so particles get pulled towards the bottom, for reuse of fluid.