Messages

Wondering what the difference between it and the T-3 is and if the T-7 is changing as well?

Haven't been on for a while, between my old hard drive crash and work hours going up.  I remembered a post here:
http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=1471.msg4814#msg4814

Where Jeff Farris mentions "Store knives in a block on the counter, not in a drawer."  I hope he will respond to this, as I expect he is talking about loose.  I am designing my future kitchen build, and one idea I like is putting a knife block in a drawer, dedicated to the knives and the cutting board stuff. (lack of counter space, makes me not want a block, or I will hang one under the counter)
I might have the wrong forum for this (seen knife questions in different area's), so move if appropriate.

Also, anyone use/sharpen Dexter Russel knives?  (given some by a friend, as they were dull and his restaurant replaced them)

It really is a matter of time verses money.

I picked up the T2000, a few years back, with a few jigs, for $185.  The gentleman that sold it to me, was given it by his best friend, who he helped sell his shop when he was dying  of cancer.  He didn't like it, but didn't realize, he didn't have the stone grader or the diamond stone (makes a difference).  Due to life getting in the way (no shop time), an employers medical issue (LOTS of extra hours at work), it was two years, before I was able to get back to it, and buy the parts I wanted (jigs and upgrades but all with fun money).
It was worth the wait.  (if it wouldn't have been, I was offered more then I paid for it a few times, prior upgrades)
Now, if I can find time to use the tools and resharpen them again (shop time), I will be happy.  Life just keeps getting in the way.

No standard angle on the gullets, ok.

Tormek was/is going to be my second step.  BEFORE getting to grinding on the back, I was planning on making a fixture and running down the gullets, (with an inherited sharpener that is the correct size for them), then doing the Farris described method. (flattening the back then honeing on the wheel)
The Tormek part seems like it should be the easy part, and my thoughts were I could make something that referenced a standard angle for the gullet tool. (less chance of me buggering them)

So no idea of the standard angle of the gullets then?

I've read about sharpening a serrated knife on the grinding wheel then buffing it and what I saw sounded like buffing it between the serrations on the buffing wheel.   What angle are serrations typically or is there a typical?


Thanks

When you say chisels and plane blades, are you moving them across the stone while your sharpening?  Using one spot, or too much pressure on the grading stone could cause more wear on the stone.  When I flattened my stone, I left one groove in the stone from leaving the diamond tip in one place too long.  (dropped something and left the Tormek in that position when I went to pick it up).


I know at the garage I worked at, the stone was always beveled towards one side, that received the most use.

There is a video on YouTube of someone who mounted one on their variable speed, Craftsman grinder.  Years back, Snap on carried them, and when they stopped, they hit closeout stores like Overstock to Ebay for around $100 (you supply the grinder).  I picked up a couple, but I couldn't find the plane blade attachment, that used to be sold for them.  The other went to a friend, who uses it with the scotchbrite type of belt for cleaning gaskets off of things.
I would use mine for for that, but tend to use their shop when I need that (act as spare hands for each other).  Haven't got together in a while, due to kids/life/etc.

I found an old thread and went looking at the Tormek group on Yahoo.  In their attachment section they have a pdf that you can save/print off, and then use that on thin cardboard or just leave a paper sleeve on.

I thought the idea of using the scissors jig on a regular bench grinder was interesting, so..., of course..., I had to try it.   And..., I just happened to have an old, basically all restoration hope lost pair of scissors!  How could I resist?

I stuck the scissors in the jig, adjusted the grinder tool rest/scissors jig to "about" the same angle as the bevel on the scissors, set the grinder to about 25% speed and started grinding away.  The tool rest is flat and the jig moved smoothly as I slid it back and forth.  No real problem with control.

How did you adjust the speed down?  While some grinders, like Craftsman's, have an adjustable speed, most do not and speed devices like router speed adapters, don't work with them.
Generally, you see more high speed grinders (32xx rpm) or low speed grinders (17xx+ rpm) then variable speed ones.
My garage shop has both a Baldor and a square frame (old) Craftrsman.

New here myself, and have one of my grandfathers old straight razors, and several safety razors (my preference).  I tried the straight razor once, and need both practice and honing, so I searched when I came here, before joining and found these two threads, hope this helps:

http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=255.msg744#msg744

http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=263.msg778#msg778

Do the new Tormeks, still have that plastic, throwaway piece, where the wheel goes?  (wondering if it is that)

In mid, 2010, I purchased a Tormek from a local man, who didn't like it.  He was given it by a friend who died from cancer, after helping him clear out his shop, so his wife didn't have to.  Lack of practice and the reminder of his friend was why he sold it, and I was lucky enough to find it on CL for a good deal.
Last year, I was finally ready to start learning when an emergency at work, drove up my hours (70 hours a week for several months).  Spring hit and I moved outside (house projects), and now winter is just about here and I am straightening up the shop and going to learn.
I ordered the jigs I didn't have, as the late fellow that had this was a turner (I have no lathe yet).  I wanted one for years, but couldn't justify it and just took a lot of time to refurb used plane blades.

Being this has sat this long, I went through 30+ pages and didn't really see a write up about refurbishing these.  I saw bits and pieces.
The prior owner had the stone rust on the shaft.  He chipped it getting it off and bought a replacement.  Since the shaft had rust, I removed it, and now my father has (already worked the chip out), the old stone, shaft and water trough.  (planned project, a treadle version)
Does one replace the bushings, automatically, when they install the new shaft?  (I know I should lube either, and the old shafts were taught to lightly lube, I am guessing the stainless do not need lube)
What else to look at on the underside? (need to record the model number so I can download the newer manual)
I tend to see lazy susan's at garage sales, so plan on going that method for it.  (wondering if others have done it, as I am wondering about drilling a stop bolt hole in one)

Headed out to work, so may be more later (still have to read the last of the forum pages),
Thanks all.