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https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3565.msg22884#msg22884

Tried via the search to see if any link to the video was posted.  Did this video happen and if so, where the heck is it?

It is interesting when you have a tool, you tend to notice it more out and about.  I was watching tv while eating dinner and saw Kick-ass on (humor "super" hero movie that may not make it past language filter), and I looked up and saw a Tormek in use by "hitgirl".
Anyone spot one in something else?  LOL, it got me thinking, I know there are car and firearms, movie databases, but is there or should there be a tool movie database?

I used one of the original old style knife jigs last night.  Evidently the handle was cracked as it was really loose so I tightened the knob and the section around the knob came out.
I am assuming that ordering a replacement knob, since the old style isn't available, doesn't come with the o-ring.  So I will need to order an o-ring as well.  But does the old style jig have a spot for it, or am I better off just getting a new jig?
Anyone replace one yet?

How often do you turn your Tormek around doing turning tools (and for what)?

I am thinking I don't really need a second rotating base, as my hand tool/knife one, I expect will get rotated a lot more then the unit setup for turning. (but would rather learn from others habits first)

Who here has done axe grinding?  (the one time I tried, the location of my Tormek, precluded it, due to the long handle)
Do you use the stone in the 220 grit, or graded finer? (assume no chips, reshaping)

If you had just one (and no web access), which would you prefer?
I am thinking the dvd, personally, as it is more of a training aid (and since there isn't a book/dvd package).
What was the version of the book, sold with a T-7?  (or the range of versions)  What is the current version?  (looking at used copies on a river site, for my friends to keep with theirs, so I will end up with mine back)

Thanks

On a side note, I went ahead and ordered some upgraded jigs as I want to compare them.

I will have a Blackstone soon and know that there are times that it is recommended to use a permanent marker on a knife and on the stone.  Does a typical black  marker show up well on the blackstone, or do I need to be looking for some other color for use with that stone?

For those into carving, which stone do you use or recommend for sharpening?  The SG or the SB stone, that turners seem to prefer?
I have read through this section and seen the video, where the SJ stone is used as a final in place of, as well as a post where they mention using the jigs to keep the items in proper alignment, so with regular honing, they require fewer sharpenings.  But I am wondering what stone initially and I guess that also means what materials are your carving tools made of?

We have discussed serrated knives before, and using both Jeff's technique and a slightly modified Jeff's technique (buffing more on a true buffer, rather then the leather wheel), I feel pretty comfortable sharpening them now.  What I realized this week, when sharpening about a dozen old ones ("recently found") from my friends restaurant, as well as a chef's knife, is what I am not happy with, is the way to test.
The Chef's knife, I wasn't 100% happy with, as I think that is just more practice needed (didn't quiet get the grind even on both sides for my taste).  But it cut paper extremely well, didn't take long to do, and made the user very happy.  It was testing with paper I realized that doesn't work well with serrated knives.
Serrated knives have points when new.  As they get used quite a bit, the points wear away, and they become more of a scalloped (think bread) knife.  Now granted, I don't go out and buy Tomato's and onions as test materials (what they are most used for in their place), and they seemed to like the way it cut them.  Where my unhappiness lies, is I have been able to use a tapered diamond hone to effectively repair serrations towards the tips. but I can't make new points on a well used knife (now scalloped).  Points tell me it is sharp.  Since serrated knives can't really slice paper, but may do more of a tear cut, I never feel comfortable with my work.
In my thoughts, I am wondering if Stevebot, tells how he tests those in his video?

The first image shows a knife in the jig. The Protrusion is 139mm, as I use with the kenjig.



Ken

The above image made me wonder if there are any issues to be aware of with knives that have the Granton edges.  (Santoku, Chef's, or Roast slicers typically) 
I realize these won't have the lifespan of those without, but am wondering how far down you can really go?  (my thoughts are when your at or into the Granton edges, the knife will have thinner and more prone to breaking the edge)

Thanks, rather learn before I screw one up.

I received an email from Tormek on June 1st.  This is how it appears, because preferences are for text emails, not html.  There are no working links because of no html.  There are no cut and paste links for one to use.  You should consider either setting up an email that will work better, or send a different email to those with text emails preferences.
New model: Tormek T-8

If you are having trouble viewing this email, view it online.   


         The next generation is here.   


         New model: Tormek T-8 Ultimate precision with solid cast frame

Get top results with a real sharpening system! With an updated
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Tormek AB | Sweden 

On the old style jig, it was easy to see how to stop the handle from spinning. (the little knob)  I used the long knife jig for the first time today (cheap flexible knife a friend asked me to try) and it felt a couple times, like the handle was trying to spin, when going back and forth.  I tried moving my hand out of the way to observe, and there may have been very SLIGHT, movement (felt it more then observed).  Has that happened to anyone else, and is there any tricks to lock the handle more securely?

Thanks

http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=1314.0

First and last name not capitalized, someone is slipping.  Older posted deleted, but spammer not banned?

I have been going through the forum and found the old flat blade jig, being listed as better for mortising chisels (by Ionut from memory).  I know there was a SVS-40 jig, that was the predecessor to the 32.  I think Jeff just sold some old stock in January, of it, via Ebay.  I am wondering if this jig has any benefits over the new on any tool?  (found one via CL, wondering if I should add it, if price is right)

Are the arbor sizes the same between the machines and what is the minimum stone size for the T-3?

Just thinking out loud here, wondering when the stone on the T-7/2000 (later in my case) gets to the 7" mark, could it be used on the smaller machine?  Thanks

My 2000 came with a bar that has no threads or nut, and one like the earlier video's, where it has the black nut (no markings) and no hole on the end.  I didn't realize that until I tried to use the stop on the end.
When did they change and any idea of the depth and thread pitch (debating about drilling and tapping).

http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=916.msg2087#msg2087
I kept coming back to that and finally found two videos that gave a little bit of idea of the newer verses the older jig.
How much shorter is the newer jig? (rather not modify it too short)

Can they be done on this?

Do you always sharpen with your Tormek, or are there tools and preferences you choose other things for?

Some use a dry grinder for general shaping and I am considering that for garage sale tools (make the Tormek stone last longer).  There are other tools, personally I see no need for the Tormek (not going to be using it on my mower blades, a die grinder or angle grinder works great for that).  Then there are habits that I haven't changed, or figured out if I need to yet (keep the hand stones handy, for touch ups when using a chisel).  I look at some of these, and to me they are similar to using a steel to keep kitchen knives sharp, until you have to sharpen.
I hope this isn't too far out of line to ask, because I doubt I am the only one who believes multiple systems work well for them and would like to learn about others experiences.

Since they came out with this, one thing that annoy's me is I have been looking for them to update their information on it, to list DRAWER SIZE.  Guy's, if your listening, when it comes to toolboxes, that is REQUIRED information for those who are trying to determine what best fits their needs.

I gave up waiting.