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Take a look at the water tray.  I knew the new ones came with a magnet and spot for it (at least on the replacement ones sold for the T7), but didn't realize it was marked where the water fill line was at first.
If I wasn't the only one using it, I would use a paint stick to highlight that for future users.

That said, I tend to fill from a plastic Folgers jug, and when done I empty it into another one.  I thought about trying to run the water over a coffee filter to see if I could grab the gunk and save the water, but realized the time verses the cost of the filters, etc. didn't make that worth it to me.

It was Jeff's post from when he was connected with them.  Now, in the states Affinity tools, I think is the one (although Jeff still carries parts).  I didn't see where you were at, originally and meant the posting more as guide, that whoever is your local person, should take care of you. (seems to be part of their backward upgradeable philosophy)  Otherwise, you may have to buy a part, from those who sell the replacement parts.
I hope all those above posts helped some, and welcome here.

See this thread:
http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=526.0

From some of the stuff I saw on them, I think it depends on when it was made as to the angle.  I have seen reference that the older ones were at a twenty degree angle while the newer ones (and the sharpener they sell) are at a fifteen degree angle.
But the angle of the sharper they recommend/use at ATK is twenty degree's per side.
Now going to Victorinox's site, on their sharpening recommendation/pdf they say 15-20 degree's.

I picked up a pair of them, with a steel and a paring knife recently for the price of this knife (deal of the day type of site).  I've been looking at redoing my entire kitchen, and using it more.  (layout, poor storage, older, and still had first set of moving out knives etc)
I personally don't care much if the handles are Rosewood or plastic as much as function.  That said another one I found great reviews on, and bought a couple that I say try, are Update International (reviews said cost effective clones of the Forschners).   My first set of knives while they will work fine (especially after the Tormek), I decided should be my training/trial aids.  (also if one of the relatives wants to learn to use the Tormek)

I think several of us would love to try one, but for what it is, at that price, I view it as a lifetime SJ stone.  Designed for touchups, but not for grinding out big nicks or damaged chunks. (take way too long)

I mentioned this a while back, and am wondering if something like antiseize or thread locker would add resistance or lock it if I decide to only use the nut.

Thanks for chiming back in and letting us know Kenny.

You should be able to use the setup gauge.  From reading the forum and some older reviews I saw, before that gauge, they used to recommend making your own spacing template (block of wood), but the jig made it simpler.
If the adjustable nut and post is what I think your referring to, it is the msk200 upgrade. http://tormek.com/international/en/spare-parts/shafts/msk-200-stainless-steel-shaft/
On the angled base, the model prior to the T7 was called the Supergrind 2000, and during its production, it changed from the square frame to the angled frame and got an addition that only works on the angled frame, of a stone gauge/label. (don't have to grab a measure)  Mine is the angled 2000, but I have been watching someone local, trying to sell their square framed 2000 locally, for the last year (started at $600 and now down to $400). If they came down to a realistic price, I would be tempted for a second stone machine.

I am a little shocked no one chimed in yet.  The 185 is an upgraded 180, that should be in your manual, and it works with the T3 and now the T4 so it should work just fine with your 1200.

Are we talking balance?

The Tormek T7 is kind of a legacy hold over from the earlier 2000 model.  On the T7 the horizontal base wasn't there originally, then was with a different, single knob setup (mine) then later the dual knobs that became the T7.  The T4 incorporates that into the zinc cast horizontal base/handle combo.  Other then pulling it out of the box, or transporting (where they recommend removing the stone), the handle isn't used as much since the rotating base (instead of picking it up and trying not to spill the water).

There was mention of knives with a tapered spine, changing the angle due to the spine and how it effects sitting in the jig.
With how much curve that has, I would think that tip would be more of a free hand thing. (Tormeks video does make it look like there is more then lifting going on at the tip, on the knife jig)

Let me ask a question (something that has been discussed lately), does the spine of that knife taper from the base to the tip?

Your lucky, I am currently on a Window's machine (run Linux at home).
Jeff's video doesn't have that newer jig, but the older one where you did it all on the one side.  I pointed out that difference when giving my father the older jig. (I caught it when I got the newer one with the hand tool kit)

No different then the "value" argument, it is a personal thing.  I use mine for lots of things, but the friend whose restaurant has sent me knives to sharpen, well that is all they would use it for and if they had something like the T4 to hone or touch them up often, that would be all they needed.