Messages

Nick,

You make some good points. Like you, I believe one of the most useful functions of BESS testing in detecting minute residual burr which needs to be removed. I've known Mike Brubacher, the "B" in BESS, for many years through email. Mike is a really nice, helpful guy.

I have thought about purchasing a PT50A because of its 1 gram accuracy. So far, I have tabled that decision. My early version of the PT50B with 5 gram accuracy is more than enough for me. In fact, the 25 gram accuracy of the PT50C will detect residual burr problems. (For a shapener thinking of buying a BESS tester, I recommend at least the B model.)

Ken

One of the first things I did with my T4 was to upgrade the plain nut securing the leatherhoning wheel with a "quick connect" as supplied with the T7/8. I did this to be able to clean off the excess honing compound which had spun off the leather honing wheel. (To be perfectly honest the problem was operator technique rather than a machine defect.) For those on a quest to find a cheaper honing compound, an easy answer might be not to waste PA-70 by using too much.

I think he granular size breakdown of PA-70 can be advantageous. The granules start larger during the initial rougher stages and become smaller, finer as the honing becomes smoother.

I find it encouraging that the same fingers (Dutchman's) which when used first with a calculator and later a computer to give us his grinding tables, the ancestor of all of our sharpening apps, also smooth out honing compound. Dutchman, you truly are a man for all seasons.

I am pleased that as a forum we can both think independently and benefit from sharing our ideas.

Ken

Sir Amwell,

You raise some good points. Thepursuit of 50 and sub 50 BESS numbers strikes me as pursuing the Holy Grail. Lots of bragging rights with little added practical  value. I am much more interested in an edge with staying power to cut the tomato.

I do believe BESS testing is useful in testing for residual burr, more for identifying the presence of remaining burr than for the numbers themselves.

I believe the best BESS technique is focused on accuracy rather than low numbers.

Ken

I am a longtime eliever in BESS. However, I also do the chopping for our home meals. I recommend you do the same. Working regularly at your cutting board will give you invaluable "from the trenches" feedback about your knives.

Ken

PS For some reason, Wootz changed the bevel angle setting in the middle of the video.

Welcometo the forum, MMM.

I like your 3D printing idea! I think the SVD-186R is one of Tormek's best designed jigs. It works very well or tools within its designated size range.

Please keep us posted about your 3D design.

ken

Welcome to the forum, Ed.

Move the applicable online classes to the top of your to do list and don't be afraid to watch the most applicable lasses more than once.

I started the pinned tips and tricks topic pinned at the top. (I did not choose the topic name or expect so many replies.) I am a firm believer in first learning with a chisel. It is the most basic edge and a great teacher.

Start with practice sharpening on reasonably priced tools, not junk tools, to learn.

Eep in touch.

Ken

Welcome to the forum, Jimon.

This video demonstrates how to get low BESS readings using standard Tormek equipment.

https://youtu.be/UckPmizllk0?si=jb6f3UwgOOq8JTFC

Please note at just after 1:15 the targeted bevel angle setting used on the applet, 10 degrees. (10 degrees per side). What bevel angle are you using when you sharpen?

The demonstrator in this video, our late member,"wootz" (Vadim Kriachuk of Knifegrinders of Australia) was a very dedicated sharpener and researcher. He developed a very refined technique as shown in his numerous you tube videos

Personally, I would not feel comfortable using a 10° bevel.

Ken

I suspect it placed uneven pressure and uneven bevels.

Ken

I hate to discourage innovation; however, all Tormek SVM jigs made prior to 1992 had longer shafts. Tormek switched to the shorter shafts in present use because some users were leaning on the longer shafts.

Ken

All of the demonstrations in the online classes show the honing compound being applied directly before honing. I can see the teaching value of doing this in sequence; however, it is not the most effective time to apply the compound.

The online classes mention that the honing compound works best when it is almost dry. I would suggest that it should be applied the first thing after the cover is removed to give it as much time as practical to dry.

Ken

Kevin,

Your printed copy of the handbook should be a working book. Mine has a lot of underlining and hilighting. I note page numbers with topics in the front as well as notes in the margins.

Inside the cover is a good place to note the serial number, date and dealer name and contact information.

Make sure to have a copy, either printed or online of the handbook in your primary language.

Ken

I agree withRick about the importance of honing. I would also recommend the MB-100.

Several of the online classes mention making the lastpass ofthe grinding processes with verylight grinding pressure. Do this on bothbevels of knives toreduce the size of the burr before using the leather honing wheel.

Ken

Welcome to the forum, MMM.

My advice may not be popular with the forum or what you want to hear.

Don't short circuit your sharpening skill education by starting out with too much gear or too many grinding wheels. Stay with just the SG until you thoroughly master it. Give yourself the opportunity to learn the craft. Study the handbook and the online classes. Spend time sharpening on learning tools.

Keep us posted.

Ken

Welcometo the forum, Kevin.

First suggestion, have you seriously digested the habdbook?

If, by chance, you do not have a copy of the print edition of the handbook, when youregister your Tormek on the Tormek website, you can download the latest online edition. I downloaded it on my iad and refer to it often.

Ken

Welcome to the forum, Marcel.

The closest I could find to your question was starting at around eleven minutes on this online class video:

https://www.youtube.com/live/DajdnpeOUF4?si=KPPC1z7kigLk2442

That may not be exactly the tool you want to sharpen. I suggestyou email yourquestion and photos to support (support@tormek.se)

Ken