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#1
Knife Sharpening / Re: Consistenty of sharpening
Last post by miriamjssb - Today at 03:34:59 PM
That sounds rough! if you wanted a comprehensive guide to sharpening, here's an article on how to sharpen knives that I found.
Hope it helps!
#2
Scissors Sharpening / Re: SC-60 Scissors Jig
Last post by Ken S - Yesterday at 03:09:59 PM
Two things of note with Tormek platforms:
If you look through the bore, the hole is not round. There are two flat areas. Tormek calls these flats "Torlock", a patented feature for producing a tighter grip using less pressure. It really makes a noticeable difference.
The second thing of note is the thread size of Tormek locking screws. Tormek has standardized on M6 threads. This is a standard size readily available in a variety of styles in hardware stores. Those of us who modify our jigs (including me) tend to accumulate various M6 hardware.
#3
Scissors Sharpening / Re: SC-60 Scissors Jig
Last post by rolsen - Yesterday at 09:52:03 AM
Despite my initial feelings, I ordered the new jig too.
#4
Scissors Sharpening / Re: Excess Water Overflow When...
Last post by Royale - Yesterday at 03:38:54 AM
I typically sharpen scissors left to right only, and this often directs the drips back into the trough.
#5
Hand Tool Woodworking / Re: Woodpeckers Router Plane
Last post by WimSpi - January 26, 2026, 04:45:34 PM
Quote from: RickKrung on January 26, 2026, 01:22:09 AMLooks like a really cool and useful tool.  As long as woodworkers have been dealing with that sort of need, why has this not been invented before?

As a carpenter, I worked with a router plane in the 1970s. It was made entirely of wood.

Adjusting the depth was easy. You placed the router plane on the wood. And the depth of the groove was marked on the side of the wood. You then lowered the chisel until it touched this depth mark and tightened it with a nut. That's all there was to it.
If the groove was deeper, you set it to multiple depths.

The centuries-old name for this plane in Dutch was "Horletoet."
But if you translate the current name, "grondschaaf," into English, it becomes "ground plane."

What I find more important than a very precise adjustment of the chisel is a heavy mass. Then it pushes the plane more easily through the wood when encountering resistance from the wood.

#6
Hand Tool Woodworking / Re: Woodpeckers Router Plane
Last post by rolsen - January 26, 2026, 01:49:08 PM
Router plane iron is also very simple to sharpen freehand on a diamond stone (or other). Veritas is a go-to router plane these days, as vintage ones have gotten a Paul Sellers increase  ;)
#7
Hand Tool Woodworking / Re: Woodpeckers Router Plane
Last post by MikeK - January 26, 2026, 10:40:29 AM
Veritas has been making a router plane with removable blades for years.  The Veritas version is less expensive than the Woodpeckers version.

https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/planes/router/52609-veritas-router-plane
#8
Hand Tool Woodworking / Re: Woodpeckers Router Plane
Last post by RickKrung - January 26, 2026, 01:22:09 AM
Looks like a really cool and useful tool.  As long as woodworkers have been dealing with that sort of need, why has this not been invented before?
#9
Hand Tool Woodworking / Woodpeckers Router Plane
Last post by RichColvin - January 26, 2026, 12:35:10 AM
Woodpeckers came out with a new router plane which has a really innovative design for the cutting blade.  

https://www.woodpeck.com/woodpeckers-router-plane.html

I have an idea about how the blade could be held in a 3d-printed holder which could then be held in the SE-77.  If you have one of these, please contact me:  I'd like to work with you on this idea. 
#10
General Tormek Questions / Re: Some Questions about my ne...
Last post by carlhanger - January 25, 2026, 10:50:01 PM
Quote from: RickKrung on January 25, 2026, 06:58:34 PMI suspect the bump you removed in the rubber drive wheel had nothing to do with the drive, rather I think more likely it was from the machine sitting, unused for a long time, giving the drive shaft time to create a depression in the rubber. 

Keeping the knife jig collar against the support bar should come with experience.  I assume you are speaking of using it on the vertical bar, grinding edge-leading.  I wonder if you are exerting more pressure on the knife against the grinding wheel than is necessary, which could cause it to want to "travel with" the grinding wheel, pushing it away from the support bar. 

I think you are right about about both. Thank you. Any Idea what that noise might be then?

Quote from: magnus on January 25, 2026, 09:43:56 PMI am quite new to the tormek world but could the bump you are feeling in the honing wheel be where the seam is glued? look at minute 3:58 in this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6IbPmyb6U_Q&t=236s
That would not explain the noise but worth a try. I had to sandpaper my honing-wheel on the T4 quite a lot to get rid of the bump.
congrats on a fine setup of tormek things!

Magnus


I thought about that, but dismissed the idea because the bump is so perfectly in sync whith the rythm of the noise. I will sand down the wheel anyways though in order to rule that out. Thanks