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#91
General Tormek Questions / Ultrasonic cleaner to remove r...
Last post by Clickngofar - June 07, 2025, 02:24:56 AMHi Guys, Max here from Auckland, NZ, new to the forum, and just upgraded to a T-8.
I think I might have just discovered a eureka moment:
I use a sonic cleaner for dirty knives before processing, and after finishing a mid range filleter, I did a BESS test and it scored a 50, (I only have the chef version), so I was very pleased with that.
Then I thought, I've read Vadim's book and watched all his videos, and no matter what you do there will always be a residual root burr left after the final strop. So I put the finished knife, blade first, in the sonic cleaner for about ten minutes and tested it again. Low and behold the score was 25!
When you think about it, root burrs are microscopic, and sonic cavitation works on the same scale. It is a powerful shock force that could easily knock any loose remaining burr clean off the edge.
Am I the first one in the history of the world to discover this?
Please tell me I am...it's my birthday today and that would make my day.
I think I might have just discovered a eureka moment:
I use a sonic cleaner for dirty knives before processing, and after finishing a mid range filleter, I did a BESS test and it scored a 50, (I only have the chef version), so I was very pleased with that.
Then I thought, I've read Vadim's book and watched all his videos, and no matter what you do there will always be a residual root burr left after the final strop. So I put the finished knife, blade first, in the sonic cleaner for about ten minutes and tested it again. Low and behold the score was 25!
When you think about it, root burrs are microscopic, and sonic cavitation works on the same scale. It is a powerful shock force that could easily knock any loose remaining burr clean off the edge.
Am I the first one in the history of the world to discover this?
Please tell me I am...it's my birthday today and that would make my day.
#92
Knife Sharpening / Re: Rock Hard Felt Wheels
Last post by Columbo - June 06, 2025, 06:10:45 PMAlso, if I may add trying a variable speed 1" x 30" machine may be helpful. A machine such as a Toolker with a servo motor. Options it's nice always to have options. Then you can add on a modified angle guide apparatus to consistently set your angles.
There are many YouTube videos of such modifications to the angle guides.
There are many YouTube videos of such modifications to the angle guides.
#93
Knife Sharpening / Re: Rock Hard Felt Wheels
Last post by Columbo - June 06, 2025, 06:07:36 PMIf I may suggest, in my minimal experience, instead of the felt or slotted paper wheel, as your final step, try a hanging strop made from kangaroo tail.
But damn 50 or 60 on the Bess scale pack your yourself on the back. Digest it and say to yourself, damn am I good
But damn 50 or 60 on the Bess scale pack your yourself on the back. Digest it and say to yourself, damn am I good
#94
Knife Sharpening / Re: Sharpening Serrated Knives
Last post by Columbo - June 06, 2025, 05:29:50 PMInteresting isn't it
#95
Knife Sharpening / Re: Knife sharpening software ...
Last post by tgbto - June 06, 2025, 08:29:07 AMKen, if a kenjig is the fastest and most accurate way of setting knives, then add however many seconds are necessary to set a distance on vernier calipers, and you'll get a close second. Especially if you want to add a controlled honing, where it's just a matter of resetting the calipers.
Versatility included !
Versatility included !
#96
Knife Sharpening / Re: Knife sharpening software ...
Last post by Ken S - June 06, 2025, 01:06:34 AMI agree with Dutchman. I prefer the KS-123; however, I still have both my ipad file and several copies of Dutchman's tables. (I also still have several kenjigs, which I still believe are the fastest and most accurate method of setting knives, although I concede it is not the most versatile.)
Ken
Ken
#97
General Tormek Questions / Re: micro bevels, another opin...
Last post by Ken S - June 05, 2025, 11:17:34 AMI seem to be out of synch with some of our forum members regarding micro bevels.For the record, I do not think they are wrong. Why the difference in thinking?
My sharpening and sharpening thinking is primarily chisels and bench planes. This goes back to the early 1970s and oilstones. I really did not sharpen knives until the 2010s when I had a chance meeting with Steve Bottorff. My first sharpening love is still chisels.
In the 1970s, the popular chisel sharpening technique involved starting with a small diameter (6") higher speed electric grinder for rough grinding. The apex work was left for bench stones to avoid overheating. Micro bevels became fashionable because the smaller bevel area required less physical labor. This was logical, although old timers like Frank Clausz recognized that the strongest edges were flat ground.
This micro bevel thinking has carried over onto Tormek sharpening. I no not think it is necessary. Unlike with bench stones, the Tormek's electric motor does the heavy lifting with sharpening. Also, the Tormek's 250mm or 200mm wheel diameter creates a much flatter grind than smaller diameter dry grinders. I am open to benefits of stropping at a slightly higher angle, although honing at a higher micro bevel angle just seems like extra work to me. I am not saying that micro bevels are wrong, only that I have not personally found them to be useful.
Ken
My sharpening and sharpening thinking is primarily chisels and bench planes. This goes back to the early 1970s and oilstones. I really did not sharpen knives until the 2010s when I had a chance meeting with Steve Bottorff. My first sharpening love is still chisels.
In the 1970s, the popular chisel sharpening technique involved starting with a small diameter (6") higher speed electric grinder for rough grinding. The apex work was left for bench stones to avoid overheating. Micro bevels became fashionable because the smaller bevel area required less physical labor. This was logical, although old timers like Frank Clausz recognized that the strongest edges were flat ground.
This micro bevel thinking has carried over onto Tormek sharpening. I no not think it is necessary. Unlike with bench stones, the Tormek's electric motor does the heavy lifting with sharpening. Also, the Tormek's 250mm or 200mm wheel diameter creates a much flatter grind than smaller diameter dry grinders. I am open to benefits of stropping at a slightly higher angle, although honing at a higher micro bevel angle just seems like extra work to me. I am not saying that micro bevels are wrong, only that I have not personally found them to be useful.
Ken
#98
Knife Sharpening / Re: Knife sharpening software ...
Last post by Dutchman - June 05, 2025, 10:52:41 AMThank you for the clear answer
I prefer the method with KS-123, but I'm happy that apparently the math-approach is still atractive
I prefer the method with KS-123, but I'm happy that apparently the math-approach is still atractive
#99
General Tormek Questions / Re: micro bevels, another opin...
Last post by tgbto - June 05, 2025, 08:58:26 AMI just watched the video. IMO, the premises are flawed as examplified by conflating "withstanding impact with a copper rod" (abuse) and "getting dull out of abrasion wear at the apex" (normal use). With the same line of reasoning, one would equip their road bike with downhill ATB tires because they can withstand being banged sideways against the pavement.
And though for outdoor knives, abuse and normal use might not be so easily set apart, I'm sure we can all agree a typical scandi grind bushcraft knife is still not a machete.
And though for outdoor knives, abuse and normal use might not be so easily set apart, I'm sure we can all agree a typical scandi grind bushcraft knife is still not a machete.
#100
Knife Sharpening / Re: Knife sharpening software ...
Last post by tgbto - June 04, 2025, 11:18:19 AMSorry for the convoluted sentence... I meant that all things considered, I prefer working with the calculator : Even if there is an additional workload at the beginning (entering projection distance in the calculator, and setting the TUSB distance on the calipers), the angle is so close to one previously ground that I get a burr in only a couple of strokes.
I found the KS-123 more fiddly(?) - it has more play/hysteresis than vernier calipers, so it takes longer to set up the USB height - and less precise (so a few more strokes to get a consistent burr).
I found the KS-123 more fiddly(?) - it has more play/hysteresis than vernier calipers, so it takes longer to set up the USB height - and less precise (so a few more strokes to get a consistent burr).