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#1
Knife Sharpening / diamond cross section shaped b...
Last post by outcast27pa - Today at 04:02:04 AMHello. I am trying to sharpen a knife for a buddy and the blade has a diamond cross section.. I have tried to use the KJ-45 but I am having trouble securing the blade in the jig. The blade wobbles along the long axis and screws up my angle. Any suggestions on sharpening diamond shaped blades? Thanks.
#2
General Tormek Questions / Re: Sharp-Nado Sharpening Stat...
Last post by HaioPaio - Yesterday at 07:53:37 PMLove it...
QuoteQ: Is it really more efficient?
A: Absolutely. Studies suggest that eliminating unnecessary hand movements can lead to a 0.0087% increase in sharpening productivity.
#3
General Tormek Questions / Sharp-Nado Sharpening Station
Last post by RichColvin - Yesterday at 05:08:34 PMSharpening Supplies has just announced an amazing new product: Sharp-Nado Sharpening Station.
There is even room in the middle for your Bess tester!
Here's a link to the product announcement. I'm not sure when they will be shipping it.
There is even room in the middle for your Bess tester!
Here's a link to the product announcement. I'm not sure when they will be shipping it.
#4
General Tormek Questions / Re: Tormek Supergrind 2000 (sq...
Last post by andicugino - Yesterday at 08:30:41 AMI just wanted to give a quick update: I removed the old paint with paint stripper. The housing was more rusted than initially apparent. The rust removal with electrolysis worked very well. I now decided to give the housing away for powder coating.
If all goes well, I'll be able to use the Tormek again next week.
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If all goes well, I'll be able to use the Tormek again next week.
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#5
General Tormek Questions / Re: New member, old Tormek
Last post by John Hancock Sr - Yesterday at 02:15:04 AMQuote from: Seapy on March 31, 2025, 10:55:19 AMThe shaft is exactly 16mm diameter steel.
Sorry - my mistake. Yes the shaft is 16mm edge to edge and reduced to 12mm either end for the stone and honing wheel. Rick is of course correct that the older shafts had RH threads either end but the new one with the knurled thumb nut is now LH thread on the wheel side.
233mm is white good showing moderate wear. If you can get it working then it will still be a good wheel.
As Herman says, go back and see if there are any jigs. Tormek have made some really good improvements to some of the jigs, although they are on the pricey side they are excellent quality. Also see if there was a grading stone. https://tormek.com/en/products/accessories/sp-650-stone-grader It is for grading between the natural coarse grit and the fine 1000 grit on the grinding wheel.
Quote from: Seapy on March 31, 2025, 10:55:19 AMI am not expecting a good outcome, the crush effect of expanding rust has probably damaged the stoneI would not worry too much since the stone rotation is quite slow so there is not a lot of tension.
#6
General Tormek Questions / Re: New member, old Tormek
Last post by RickKrung - March 31, 2025, 04:41:38 PMQuote from: Seapy on March 31, 2025, 10:55:19 AMThank you for the kind welcome and helpful replies gentlemen.
The threads which retain both of the wheels on the shaft are definitely Right Hand, 12mm X 1.75mm pitch, a standard ISO 12mm nut screws on easily, I have just run a good 12mm X 1.75mm die on the threads at the stone wheel end AND the honing wheel end, which suggests to me that this is a home made (or improvised) shaft. The shaft is exactly 16mm diameter steel. ...snip...
I believe the right hand threads you see are what was standard, back in the day. Thus, the shaft may or may not have been "home made". That the shaft is 16mm dia. is curious and could be an indicator of non-standard. What part of the shaft is 16mm?
The "new" shaft version has the left hand threads and EZ-Loc nut, which a major reason for getting it instead of fabricating a new one with right hand threads.
Quote from: Seapy on March 31, 2025, 10:55:19 AM...snip...
I will drill out the shaft from the stone wheel later and see what the situation is with the remaining hole in the stone wheel, I am not expecting a good outcome, the crush effect of expanding rust has probably damaged the stone so I expect to have to sleeve the hole then bore the sleeve accurately to retain concentricity.
...snip...
Good luck boring out the shaft and if you have to sleeve the hole, good luck boring out the stone to make space for that sleeve. With the "price" of the machine to you, you may be better served just buying a new "modern" standard grinding wheel (SG-250).
#7
General Tormek Questions / Re: New member, old Tormek
Last post by Seapy - March 31, 2025, 10:55:19 AMThank you for the kind welcome and helpful replies gentlemen.
The threads which retain both of the wheels on the shaft are definitely Right Hand, 12mm X 1.75mm pitch, a standard ISO 12mm nut screws on easily, I have just run a good 12mm X 1.75mm die on the threads at the stone wheel end AND the honing wheel end, which suggests to me that this is a home made (or improvised) shaft. The shaft is exactly 16mm diameter steel. Bear in mind, I am only 5 miles from the home of the British nuclear submarine shipyard, It's quite likely a new shaft could have been 'knocked up' during a tea break in 'The Yard', it's not unknown...
I need to clean off the various parts so I can see more clearly what I have. Given the age of this machine I will remove the motor and check the wiring, it has a white power lead which does not seem to me to be authentic. What colour would the original power lead have been?
Have just had a quick look at the honing wheel, it appears to be plastic with steel mounting plate to fit the main shaft, a rubber tyre and some sort of skin on the flat side, very difficult to tell what it is but seems like the side layer COULD be leather stuck to the plastic wheel. Will clean and examine more carefully later today. The material on the rim seems to be rubber with some slight radial cracks close to the inside edge of the 'tyre' the outer part of the 'tyre' seems free of cracks but is quite uneven across it's width, it had a worn line around one side about 14mm (9/16") wide.
I will drill out the shaft from the stone wheel later and see what the situation is with the remaining hole in the stone wheel, I am not expecting a good outcome, the crush effect of expanding rust has probably damaged the stone so I expect to have to sleeve the hole then bore the sleeve accurately to retain concentricity.
The stone wheel is 233mm in diameter and 48mm wide or thick.
I shall explore the method of uploading photographs and try to show you some features of the machine.
Enough chatting, things to do!
Regards, Robert
The threads which retain both of the wheels on the shaft are definitely Right Hand, 12mm X 1.75mm pitch, a standard ISO 12mm nut screws on easily, I have just run a good 12mm X 1.75mm die on the threads at the stone wheel end AND the honing wheel end, which suggests to me that this is a home made (or improvised) shaft. The shaft is exactly 16mm diameter steel. Bear in mind, I am only 5 miles from the home of the British nuclear submarine shipyard, It's quite likely a new shaft could have been 'knocked up' during a tea break in 'The Yard', it's not unknown...
I need to clean off the various parts so I can see more clearly what I have. Given the age of this machine I will remove the motor and check the wiring, it has a white power lead which does not seem to me to be authentic. What colour would the original power lead have been?
Have just had a quick look at the honing wheel, it appears to be plastic with steel mounting plate to fit the main shaft, a rubber tyre and some sort of skin on the flat side, very difficult to tell what it is but seems like the side layer COULD be leather stuck to the plastic wheel. Will clean and examine more carefully later today. The material on the rim seems to be rubber with some slight radial cracks close to the inside edge of the 'tyre' the outer part of the 'tyre' seems free of cracks but is quite uneven across it's width, it had a worn line around one side about 14mm (9/16") wide.
I will drill out the shaft from the stone wheel later and see what the situation is with the remaining hole in the stone wheel, I am not expecting a good outcome, the crush effect of expanding rust has probably damaged the stone so I expect to have to sleeve the hole then bore the sleeve accurately to retain concentricity.
The stone wheel is 233mm in diameter and 48mm wide or thick.
I shall explore the method of uploading photographs and try to show you some features of the machine.
Enough chatting, things to do!
Regards, Robert
#8
General Tormek Questions / Re: Storing Tormek tools
Last post by tgbto - March 31, 2025, 08:48:03 AMQuote from: Arzt on March 29, 2025, 01:01:33 PMIt would be easy to print such images then use the paper print-out as a template.
I used the tools themselves as templates for shaping ShadowFoam. It allows for cutting at different depths to match the depth of the tool/jig.
#9
General Tormek Questions / Re: New member, old Tormek
Last post by RickKrung - March 31, 2025, 07:25:32 AMWelcome to the forum. Nice acquisition.
The replacement shaft is stainless steel, so I believe it would behoove you to get it from Tormek, as it comes with the new, easy lock nut as well and won't corrode, even if your grinding wheel has rust embedded in it. I love turning and milling stainless (at least some alloys of it), but I is not worth the work in this case, I feel.
There have been several folks who have restored older Tormeks and there is extensive discussion around those threads that could be of great interest to you. And just spend some time, if you haven't already, just reading the long history of discussions, regarding all aspects of the Tormek. Lots to learn.
I highly recommend getting a Truing Tool. Much easier and likely more accurate than truing on your lathe. I have two lathes and I would not want the grinding grit getting on the ways or other moving surfaces.
Rick
The replacement shaft is stainless steel, so I believe it would behoove you to get it from Tormek, as it comes with the new, easy lock nut as well and won't corrode, even if your grinding wheel has rust embedded in it. I love turning and milling stainless (at least some alloys of it), but I is not worth the work in this case, I feel.
There have been several folks who have restored older Tormeks and there is extensive discussion around those threads that could be of great interest to you. And just spend some time, if you haven't already, just reading the long history of discussions, regarding all aspects of the Tormek. Lots to learn.
I highly recommend getting a Truing Tool. Much easier and likely more accurate than truing on your lathe. I have two lathes and I would not want the grinding grit getting on the ways or other moving surfaces.
Rick
#10
General Tormek Questions / Re: New member, old Tormek
Last post by Herman Trivilino - March 31, 2025, 03:40:03 AMThere is an assortment of jigs and accessories that come with the Tormek. The newer T7 and T8 machines use many of the same accessories or jigs, although the newer ones are a bit different. If you do some google searches you can find photographs, drawings, and videos of them. Go back in the shed and see if you can find them. In particular, there is a leather honing wheel that fits over the rubber drive wheel, and attaches with a threaded knob.
If you don't have the Universal Support Bar (USB) see if you can find the original in the shed.
All of these parts are still available, although they may be upgraded versions. They will all fit your machine. If the Tormek you found still runs, it may be worth it to you to buy some of these upgraded accessories. Especially the USB and the truing tool.
If you don't have the Universal Support Bar (USB) see if you can find the original in the shed.
All of these parts are still available, although they may be upgraded versions. They will all fit your machine. If the Tormek you found still runs, it may be worth it to you to buy some of these upgraded accessories. Especially the USB and the truing tool.