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#1
Knife Sharpening / Choosing a default angle
Last post by Rossy66 - Today at 03:12:59 PMI have had my business up and running for just over 2 months now and although its doing quite well, I have a question for the forum that I know docent have a absolute answer but I will ask it anyway for guidance. I get a lot of knives that are in bad shape and although I have been looking up the website of the knife maker or Googling the answer, I try to put the factory recommended angle on it or a default 18° and was wondering if anyone who sharpens for the public chooses a different angle?
In all honesty, I would like to have a more "standard" angle to sharpen customers knives except for very specific knives that require a specific angle (As an ex chef, I use Japanese knives and sharpen most of them at 15° and have some as low as 12°) and I am wondering if the standard 18° should be lower, possibly 15°? I understand that this may leave less material behind the edge and most cheap knives wont stay sharp for long so is there a compromise edge angle? Any input would be most welcome.
In all honesty, I would like to have a more "standard" angle to sharpen customers knives except for very specific knives that require a specific angle (As an ex chef, I use Japanese knives and sharpen most of them at 15° and have some as low as 12°) and I am wondering if the standard 18° should be lower, possibly 15°? I understand that this may leave less material behind the edge and most cheap knives wont stay sharp for long so is there a compromise edge angle? Any input would be most welcome.
#2
General Tormek Questions / Re: Leakey Tormek
Last post by Dan - Today at 09:13:44 AMMy choice was a very cheap (6 euros!) and sturdy gardening tray which has been excellent 
https://forum.tormek.com/index.php/topic,5458.msg39853.html#msg39853
https://forum.tormek.com/index.php/topic,5458.msg39853.html#msg39853
#3
General Tormek Questions / Re: Leakey Tormek
Last post by Sir Amwell - Today at 02:02:06 AMAdjust your workspace to accommodate water. Spills. Drips. Leakages.
Drip trays. Well positioned towels. Absorbent, dry able flooring.
It's the nature of the beast being water cooled grinding.
I'd prefer water all over the place to dry breathable dust everywhere!
Your machine isn't leaking. It's performing.
Drip trays. Well positioned towels. Absorbent, dry able flooring.
It's the nature of the beast being water cooled grinding.
I'd prefer water all over the place to dry breathable dust everywhere!
Your machine isn't leaking. It's performing.
#4
Knife Sharpening / Re: Grit reccomendations for c...
Last post by BPalv - Yesterday at 08:02:30 PMQuote from: kwakster on May 28, 2026, 12:13:15 PMThe 1200 grit CBN wheel will most certainly grind an initial edge on ceramic knives, but that edge will be completely unusable due to chipping (even with careful use)Thank's for the intel...
For most commercial work after creating an initial edge on the SB-250 Blackstone i refine on a first Paper Wheel with 15 micron diamond compound (edge is still unusable after this), and then at least up to 6 micron diamond compound on a second Paper Wheel.
When there are no large chips i often only use the 15 and 6 micron Paper Wheels.
Further refinement with 3 micron diamond compound on a third Paper Wheel or even 1 micron diamond compound on a fourth Paper Wheel leads to a noticeable keener edge as well as much longer edge longevity.
The problem is of course that this also takes much more time, so after a lot of experimenting & testing i have found refinement up to 6 micron to be a good balance of edge keenness & longevity, and time spent sharpening/polishing.
Also: i avoid working on cheap ceramic knives, these are not worth it.
These days i only do quality ceramics.
Maybe this older thread is also helpful:
https://forum.tormek.com/index.php/topic,5672.0.html
#5
General Tormek Questions / Re: Leakey Tormek
Last post by Ken S - Yesterday at 07:54:49 PMWelcome to the forum, Jack.
The Tormek machines do not leak. However, there can be some spillage. Years ago, I spent a full day observing the Tormek demonstrators at a woodworking show. I paid particular attention to the amount of spillage throughout the day. The Tormeks were set up on a very expensive new Swedish workbench, with only a single layer of cardboard to protect the bench stop. I was surprised that only a few drops of water spilled out during the day. I attributed this to several things:
1) There was only enough water in the water trough for efficient wet grinding. The SG-250 will absorb water until it is saturated. At saturation, no more water is needed. As a lifelong photo darkroom user, I habitually use graduates. Inexpensive plastic kitchen graduates work well. Turn on your Tormek and pay attention to how much water is needed to reach absortion. Overfilling will cause spillage.
2) Spillage can happen when dumping the water trough. One of our members came up with a clever, inexpensive solution. A grocery store turkey baster makes a very good siphon. I siphon the water into a recycled plastic peanut butter jar. Imop up the last bit of water and the grinding sludge with a paper towel and rinse out the trough.
3) The tools you sharpen can influence spillage. Narrow blades, like chisels and plane irons keep the sharpening over the trough. Longer knives hang over outside the trough. The Advanced Water Trough has a wider lip and a ramp to catch the spillage. If you sharpen primarily woodworking tools, the regular trough works fine. For an occasional longer knife, a paper towel next to your Tormek will get the job done. If you decide to purchase an AWT, make sure to choose the version for the older machines.
In defense of the expensive Tormek Rubber Work Mat, it is a marvelous luxury. It is thick rubber and manufactured by the same company which makes the tires for the Land Rover. It is a joy to use. That stated, an inexpensive plastic tray will suffice. If I was going to make a stand, I would size the top to accommodate the Tormek RWM whether it was in hand or a possible future purchase.
Enjoy your T2000. It should serve you for many years.
Ken
The Tormek machines do not leak. However, there can be some spillage. Years ago, I spent a full day observing the Tormek demonstrators at a woodworking show. I paid particular attention to the amount of spillage throughout the day. The Tormeks were set up on a very expensive new Swedish workbench, with only a single layer of cardboard to protect the bench stop. I was surprised that only a few drops of water spilled out during the day. I attributed this to several things:
1) There was only enough water in the water trough for efficient wet grinding. The SG-250 will absorb water until it is saturated. At saturation, no more water is needed. As a lifelong photo darkroom user, I habitually use graduates. Inexpensive plastic kitchen graduates work well. Turn on your Tormek and pay attention to how much water is needed to reach absortion. Overfilling will cause spillage.
2) Spillage can happen when dumping the water trough. One of our members came up with a clever, inexpensive solution. A grocery store turkey baster makes a very good siphon. I siphon the water into a recycled plastic peanut butter jar. Imop up the last bit of water and the grinding sludge with a paper towel and rinse out the trough.
3) The tools you sharpen can influence spillage. Narrow blades, like chisels and plane irons keep the sharpening over the trough. Longer knives hang over outside the trough. The Advanced Water Trough has a wider lip and a ramp to catch the spillage. If you sharpen primarily woodworking tools, the regular trough works fine. For an occasional longer knife, a paper towel next to your Tormek will get the job done. If you decide to purchase an AWT, make sure to choose the version for the older machines.
In defense of the expensive Tormek Rubber Work Mat, it is a marvelous luxury. It is thick rubber and manufactured by the same company which makes the tires for the Land Rover. It is a joy to use. That stated, an inexpensive plastic tray will suffice. If I was going to make a stand, I would size the top to accommodate the Tormek RWM whether it was in hand or a possible future purchase.
Enjoy your T2000. It should serve you for many years.
Ken
#6
General Tormek Questions / Re: Leakey Tormek
Last post by John Hancock Sr - Yesterday at 05:57:12 AMThere is the Tormek plastic matt but a much cheaper option is one of those silicone dog or cat trays from Amazon or your local pet supplies. Just get one with similar dimensions as the Tormek.
#7
General Tormek Questions / Re: Leakey Tormek
Last post by RichColvin - Yesterday at 02:43:38 AMNo, but you will certainly spill water, & get dripping off the tools you are sharpening.
#8
General Tormek Questions / Leakey Tormek
Last post by Riversider - Yesterday at 02:37:35 AMI recently acquired a SuperGrind 2000. I want to build a stand for it so I can tuck it away when not in use. When I googled Tormek Stand I saw several pics of the Tormek on top of the stand but placed in a plastic basin. My question is ... Do these machines tend to leak?
Thanks for help.
Jack
Thanks for help.
Jack
#9
Knife Sharpening / Re: Grit reccomendations for c...
Last post by kwakster - May 28, 2026, 12:13:15 PMThe 1200 grit CBN wheel will most certainly grind an initial edge on ceramic knives, but that edge will be completely unusable due to chipping (even with careful use)
For most commercial work after creating an initial edge on the SB-250 Blackstone i refine on a first Paper Wheel with 15 micron diamond compound (edge is still unusable after this), and then at least up to 6 micron diamond compound on a second Paper Wheel.
When there are no large chips i often only use the 15 and 6 micron Paper Wheels.
Further refinement with 3 micron diamond compound on a third Paper Wheel or even 1 micron diamond compound on a fourth Paper Wheel leads to a noticeable keener edge as well as much longer edge longevity.
The problem is of course that this also takes much more time, so after a lot of experimenting & testing i have found refinement up to 6 micron to be a good balance of edge keenness & longevity, and time spent sharpening/polishing.
Also: i avoid working on cheap ceramic knives, these are not worth it.
These days i only do quality ceramics.
Maybe this older thread is also helpful:
https://forum.tormek.com/index.php/topic,5672.0.html
For most commercial work after creating an initial edge on the SB-250 Blackstone i refine on a first Paper Wheel with 15 micron diamond compound (edge is still unusable after this), and then at least up to 6 micron diamond compound on a second Paper Wheel.
When there are no large chips i often only use the 15 and 6 micron Paper Wheels.
Further refinement with 3 micron diamond compound on a third Paper Wheel or even 1 micron diamond compound on a fourth Paper Wheel leads to a noticeable keener edge as well as much longer edge longevity.
The problem is of course that this also takes much more time, so after a lot of experimenting & testing i have found refinement up to 6 micron to be a good balance of edge keenness & longevity, and time spent sharpening/polishing.
Also: i avoid working on cheap ceramic knives, these are not worth it.
These days i only do quality ceramics.
Maybe this older thread is also helpful:
https://forum.tormek.com/index.php/topic,5672.0.html
#10
Knife Sharpening / Re: Grit reccomendations for c...
Last post by Ken S - May 28, 2026, 06:30:20 AMBpalv,
I found this article by our late member, Wootz (Vadim of Knifegrinders).
Ken
phttp://knifegrinders.com.au/06Procedures_ceramic.htm
I found this article by our late member, Wootz (Vadim of Knifegrinders).
Ken
phttp://knifegrinders.com.au/06Procedures_ceramic.htm