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#1
Knife Sharpening / Re: Struggling to keep knife f...
Last post by BPalv - Today at 01:59:39 AMQuote from: blade runner on January 12, 2026, 06:24:48 AMI have encountered a similar issue about keeping the blade flat on the stone. The blade holder keeps hitting the post of the threaded part of the universal support bar. I am unable to slide the blade holder smoothly along the bar. What should I do to avoid this?
I believe I have been experiencing the same issue (occasionally) as you. I believe the root cause is the KJ-45 jig. Is that what you're using?
The collar on that style jig is a tad more than 90° to the USB. It is flared out a bit causing that.
Someone had a similar issue and just filed off the area it was bumping on the USB support bar. I will be doing mine in the morning.
#2
Hand Tool Woodworking / Sharpening an old wood chisel
Last post by WimSpi - Yesterday at 09:21:51 PMIn 1970, during my carpentry training at technical school, I received a set of chisels from Nooitgedagt. I used them a lot. Like every carpenter, I also have a 'favorite' chisel, which is the one in the photo.
This chisel has now been ground down so much that it no longer fits properly in the SE-77. It has become too short.
I made an 'emergency attachment' so that I could still sharpen it on the Tormek. It worked quite well. I want to refine it a bit with a slightly better 'grip' and also with a right-angled stop.
I did the deburring 'traditionally' on a so-called 'Belgian chunk'. There is still one quarry in Belgium that sells these whetstones (8000 grit).
Like all carpenters back then, we had to learn how to deburr freehand at technical school, by holding the chisel steady in front of your stomach and rotating the whetstone in circles over the chisel. You use your eye to make sure the stone is flat on the chisel. Once you've mastered that, it works really well. This was called the 'carpenter's deburring method'.
The BESS score is 135. I'm satisfied with that.
(I hope the translation is correct.)
This chisel has now been ground down so much that it no longer fits properly in the SE-77. It has become too short.
I made an 'emergency attachment' so that I could still sharpen it on the Tormek. It worked quite well. I want to refine it a bit with a slightly better 'grip' and also with a right-angled stop.
I did the deburring 'traditionally' on a so-called 'Belgian chunk'. There is still one quarry in Belgium that sells these whetstones (8000 grit).
Like all carpenters back then, we had to learn how to deburr freehand at technical school, by holding the chisel steady in front of your stomach and rotating the whetstone in circles over the chisel. You use your eye to make sure the stone is flat on the chisel. Once you've mastered that, it works really well. This was called the 'carpenter's deburring method'.
The BESS score is 135. I'm satisfied with that.
(I hope the translation is correct.)
#3
Knife Sharpening / Re: Goniometer - MASTER
Last post by BPalv - Yesterday at 12:10:21 AMMy son printed my one a couple years ago, prior to that I made one out of wood ( both designs can be found on hackaday.com.
Recently I bought a cheap one off Amazon. All of them work about the same. Good enough.
Good luck with your design though. I use a goniometer often and believe they are a staple in my tiny little shop.
Recently I bought a cheap one off Amazon. All of them work about the same. Good enough.
Good luck with your design though. I use a goniometer often and believe they are a staple in my tiny little shop.
#4
Knife Sharpening / Re: Goniometer - MASTER
Last post by RichColvin - January 15, 2026, 05:35:00 PMNick,
I've not played with the inserts, though I've looked into them. So far, I've found that the threads in the PLA are sufficient as the load is not high; or at least that is what I've experienced so far.
Thank you for the recommendation though. And if would modify the design (the f3d file) to use such inserts, please do send it to me and I will add that to the documentation (and of course crediting you for the work).
Rich
I've not played with the inserts, though I've looked into them. So far, I've found that the threads in the PLA are sufficient as the load is not high; or at least that is what I've experienced so far.
Thank you for the recommendation though. And if would modify the design (the f3d file) to use such inserts, please do send it to me and I will add that to the documentation (and of course crediting you for the work).
Rich
#5
Knife Sharpening / Re: Knife restoration - Kienel...
Last post by kwakster - January 15, 2026, 05:09:13 PMThat is a stubby screwdriver from which i ground away the tip's midsection, so it fits over the threaded tang.
You need such a tool to remove the brass nut from the pommel..
A pair of needlenose pliers might also work in a pinch, but it carries more risk of damaging both the brass nut and the pommel.
You need such a tool to remove the brass nut from the pommel..
A pair of needlenose pliers might also work in a pinch, but it carries more risk of damaging both the brass nut and the pommel.
#6
Knife Sharpening / Re: Knife restoration - Kienel...
Last post by Tony Montana - January 15, 2026, 02:45:05 PMBeautiful!
About the disassembly of the handle, what tool is that?
About the disassembly of the handle, what tool is that?
#7
Knife Sharpening / Re: Goniometer - MASTER
Last post by tgbto - January 15, 2026, 08:52:11 AMRich, this is a very nice and useful piece of work. Thanks a lot for sharing !
I was wondering, are you familiar with heat set inserts ? They are inexpensive and make for a very easy way to add strong threads to 3D-printed parts. All you have to do is :
- change the diameter of the hole to the appropriate one for the thread size (3.8 mm for a M3 insert for instance, and some even go as far as making a conical insert to minimize bulgin around the insertion point)
- put these holes inside a cylinder-shaped modifier so that the wall thickness around the insert is about 80% of the thread size (3.2mm at least for M4 for instance),
- add them using a soldering iron (any will do but using the included toolheads will make it even easier).
A nice trick is to put them on the backside if you can so that the screw tends to pull the insert into the 3D printed part instead of ripping it out. You can add the modifiers as separate bodies in F3D so they will be appropriately placed in your slicer. I can make the modification for you in your design if you wish.
Many thanks,
Nick.
I was wondering, are you familiar with heat set inserts ? They are inexpensive and make for a very easy way to add strong threads to 3D-printed parts. All you have to do is :
- change the diameter of the hole to the appropriate one for the thread size (3.8 mm for a M3 insert for instance, and some even go as far as making a conical insert to minimize bulgin around the insertion point)
- put these holes inside a cylinder-shaped modifier so that the wall thickness around the insert is about 80% of the thread size (3.2mm at least for M4 for instance),
- add them using a soldering iron (any will do but using the included toolheads will make it even easier).
A nice trick is to put them on the backside if you can so that the screw tends to pull the insert into the 3D printed part instead of ripping it out. You can add the modifiers as separate bodies in F3D so they will be appropriately placed in your slicer. I can make the modification for you in your design if you wish.
Many thanks,
Nick.
#8
Knife Sharpening / Re: Goniometer - MASTER
Last post by RichColvin - January 13, 2026, 11:51:52 PMI've developed a laser goniometer which can be 3D printed. It is available at https://www.sharpeninghandbook.info/Jigs-LaserGoniometer.html.
#9
Knife Sharpening / Re: Sharpen workflow for ‘mid-...
Last post by Royale - January 13, 2026, 04:20:01 PMI think a good place to start is to be very clear on the standard(s) that you're aiming for, and the general trend in knives you receive.
About 99% of customer knives I receive are the end product of numerous botched sharpening attempts, and hatchet jobs by other sharpening businesses.
I just reprofile all knives I get with the SG-250, sharpen with the DF-250, then strop. BESS testing is only for my top tier service (for high end knives and/or professional chefs), and for this service I go through all diamond grindstones, the SJ-250, and strop.
But my motivation may be different from yours, because my business is still relatively new, and I'm more focused on social media outreach and generating customer to customer chatter.
But yeah, I'd recommend establishing what "good enough" is, to be very clear about it, then the workflow will pretty much create itself.
About 99% of customer knives I receive are the end product of numerous botched sharpening attempts, and hatchet jobs by other sharpening businesses.
I just reprofile all knives I get with the SG-250, sharpen with the DF-250, then strop. BESS testing is only for my top tier service (for high end knives and/or professional chefs), and for this service I go through all diamond grindstones, the SJ-250, and strop.
But my motivation may be different from yours, because my business is still relatively new, and I'm more focused on social media outreach and generating customer to customer chatter.
But yeah, I'd recommend establishing what "good enough" is, to be very clear about it, then the workflow will pretty much create itself.
#10
General Tormek Questions / Re: chisel with 25 degrees in ...
Last post by MikeK - January 13, 2026, 03:01:04 PMQuote from: John Hancock Sr on January 13, 2026, 09:45:08 AMOnce you set the bar height for the first one make a note of the protrusion and set them all with the same protrusion.That's what I do and how I was taught by the late David Charlesworth. I have the Tormek T8 (David had the T7) with the DC-250 diamond wheel and SE-77 jig. The bar is 9mm above the wheel and the projection is 38mm for a 25-degree hollow ground bevel.
I use a 5mm and 4mm Domino tenon glued together for the 9mm spacer to set the bar height. This works for all chisels and plane irons and has never failed to produce consistent results.