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#1

General Tormek Questions / Re: New SVD-186R jig

Last post by RickKrung - Today at 03:59:34 PM

I wanted a second SVD-186R and remembered that there had been a discussion of this when the R was released with its locking knob. I had a 186 on hand so for the conversion to a 186R I implemented Rick's idea of a collar around the jig to reinforce the tapped hole.

As can be seen in the pictures, the body of the 186 is about 2.5mm thick and the collar doubled that. There is now plenty of thread to hold the knob. (If I were Rick I would have machined a steel collar, but the 20mm ID brass bushing was so cheap ($6) and easy that I couldn't resist; I am confident that it will do the job.)

The brass bushing was a decent interference fit over the jig: I warmed the bushing, froze the jig, slid on the bushing and it tightened up nicely. If the fit hadn't been so nice, I would have put a dab of JB Weld in to keep things orderly.

Though it looks a bit bulkier in the middle, I am finding the homemade 186R to be functionally the same as my "real" 186R, so this was a successful modification for me.

Gord

Nicely done.  I think brass is a good choice here.  If I were doing it, rather than ordinary, rustable steel, I would use stainless, but I love working in brass as well and it will serve quite well and I would be happy with it this way. 

Rick

#2

General Tormek Questions / Re: New SVD-186R jig

Last post by GKC - Today at 05:35:57 AM

I wanted a second SVD-186R and remembered that there had been a discussion of this when the R was released with its locking knob. I had a 186 on hand so for the conversion to a 186R I implemented Rick's idea of a collar around the jig to reinforce the tapped hole.

As can be seen in the pictures, the body of the 186 is about 2.5mm thick and the collar doubled that. There is now plenty of thread to hold the knob. (If I were Rick I would have machined a steel collar, but the 20mm ID brass bushing was so cheap ($6) and easy that I couldn't resist; I am confident that it will do the job.)

The brass bushing was a decent interference fit over the jig: I warmed the bushing, froze the jig, slid on the bushing and it tightened up nicely. If the fit hadn't been so nice, I would have put a dab of JB Weld in to keep things orderly.

Though it looks a bit bulkier in the middle, I am finding the homemade 186R to be functionally the same as my "real" 186R, so this was a successful modification for me.

Gord

#3

General Tormek Questions / Re: Removing the Grinding Whee...

Last post by John Hancock Sr - Today at 02:50:43 AM

T8 was not yet available 15 years ago

Sorry, it was a T7 dated 2011. My son now has it. I bought the T8 Anniversary but with my repairs and paint job the T7 is as good as new.

#4

General Tormek Questions / Re: Removing the Grinding Whee...

Last post by RichColvin - September 26, 2026, 09:26:11 PM

Yes, time has a tendency of passing quickly. It's quite easy for me to walk away from a sharpening session and leave the machine unattended for weeks or even months. I've learned my lesson. Remove the water trough, empty and thoroughly rinse, and remove the grindstone immediately after every session.

I do the same as Heman.

#5

General Tormek Questions / Re: Removing the Grinding Whee...

Last post by Dan - September 26, 2026, 08:30:37 PM

The Tormek T8 had been introduced 10 years ago in 2016.

Yes, I also thoought the T8 was not yet available 15 years ago. Perhaps it wasn't as old as John thought

#6

General Tormek Questions / Re: Removing the Grinding Whee...

Last post by Herman Trivilino - September 26, 2026, 07:36:27 PM

Yes, time has a tendency of passing quickly. It's quite easy for me to walk away from a sharpening session and leave the machine unattended for weeks or even months. I've learned my lesson. Remove the water trough, empty and thoroughly rinse, and remove the grindstone immediately after every session.

#7

General Tormek Questions / Re: Removing the Grinding Whee...

Last post by Drilon - September 26, 2026, 06:27:28 PM

The Tormek T8 had been introduced 10 years ago in 2016.

#8

General Tormek Questions / Re: Is there a way to prevent ...

Last post by John Hancock Sr - September 26, 2026, 08:14:45 AM

I'm curious, John. Where was the rust? Where the grindstone makes contact with the main shaft? Did the rust penetrate into the grindstone?

The rust was under the wheel. It did not extend into or past the bearing. The wheel was completely stuck to the shaft It was about 15 years old when I bought it and I suspect that it had never been removed. It was in a liquidation auction for a business. The rust did not penetrate into the wheel. There is a collar inside the hole which is part of the wheel, which stopped it. It only rusted where the wheel contacted the shaft. The bearings were also quite worn.

In hindsight I could have used vinegar to dissolve the rust and remove the wheel but it cracked when I tried to remove it.

#9

General Tormek Questions / Re: Removing the Grinding Whee...

Last post by John Hancock Sr - September 26, 2026, 08:08:19 AM

So, I just removed the wheel, in case of any problems and all is fine

It will take a while to show. Also greasing will help.  I bought a second hand T8 that was about 15 years old. The SG wheel was rusted solid to the shaft. I suspect that it had never been removed.  I think if you remove it regularly you may be fine. I will continue to remove mine after every session thought

#10

General Tormek Questions / Re: Removing the Grinding Whee...

Last post by Dan - September 24, 2026, 10:57:22 PM

Hello all,
A little update on this subject...
After some of your comments, I was a little worried that my choice of leaving the wheel on all the time wasn't maybe so wise.
So, I just removed the wheel, in case of any problems and all is fine.
No rust or any sign of rusty bits.
I did use some thickish lithium grease the last time and it seems to have protected everything OK.
The wheel and the ezylock came off easily.
I just regreased the shaft and put it all back on.

Until next time....
Danny