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#1
General Tormek Questions / Re: White Fluffy Mold On SG-25...
Last post by Ken S - Yesterday at 10:43:56 PM
I agree with checking with support.

The other thought I have is to check your water. I would pick up a gallon or two of distilled water from your grocery store. I would start with scrubbing your wheel with a scrubbing brush. When you are through sharpening, store your wheel dry.

Please keep us posted.

Ken
#2
Knife Sharpening / Re: Knife restoration- Wade & ...
Last post by Rossy66 - Yesterday at 07:54:46 PM
Amazing job  :o  :o
#3
Knife Sharpening / Re: Anyone had experience with...
Last post by Rossy66 - Yesterday at 07:53:19 PM
Thank's, I may order one.
#4
Knife Sharpening / Re: Anyone had experience with...
Last post by WimSpi - Yesterday at 06:09:08 PM
I bought them at the address below. I have two leather wheels. The first one has polishing paste and the second one is just leather. In fact, my leather strap


https://schleifjunkies.de/produkt/lederrad-250x35-glatte-oberflaeche-zum-end-abzug/
#5
Knife Sharpening / Re: Knife restoration- Wade & ...
Last post by kwakster - Yesterday at 04:56:34 PM
This knife was sold a while ago for 325 Euro to an experienced local hunter who actually uses it as a hunting knife.

Decades ago the man owned exactly the same Boone model but somehow lost it, and he spent many years looking for another in good condition.

He praises both the very useful overall design as well as the crucible cast steel quality that is relatively easy to sharpen like 1095 steel, but keeps a keener edge for longer.

He uses this knife for deers and smaller game, and a higher end Fallkniven in more wear resistant 3G steel for boars (everzwijnen in Dutch)
#6
Knife Sharpening / Re: Knife restoration- Wade & ...
Last post by kwakster - Yesterday at 03:31:33 PM
A few pictures i took for my own archive:












#7
Knife Sharpening / Re: Knife restoration- Wade & ...
Last post by kwakster - Yesterday at 03:30:36 PM
Paper ad from 1926 showing the Wade & Butcher Teddy model on top and the Pioneer, Boone, and Bowie models below:





#8
Knife Sharpening / Re: Knife restoration- Wade & ...
Last post by kwakster - Yesterday at 03:29:36 PM
The blade has been refined through grit 800 and 1000 wet & dry (again using WD40 on the piece of conveyor belt), removed the very fine burr on the Tormek leather wheel, and the apex can now whittle one of my chest hairs from root-to-tip at about 3.0 centimeters from the point of holding.
Also polished the aluminium pommel a bit on a felt wheel, recut the swedge & jimping with a few small diamond files, and next step is to refine the swedge surfaces a bit more.

This is how the knife currently looks:















#9
Knife Sharpening / Re: Knife restoration- Wade & ...
Last post by kwakster - Yesterday at 03:28:49 PM
A website dedicated to various things Sheffield, among which several clips related to knife making:

Little Mesters – Alex Glen Wilson

Footage from the 1960's where the same George Goodwin (now 77 years old) shows how he makes the crucibles:
 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tOS05k1C7zM

Also this fascinating color documentary made in 1945 about large scale steel manufacture in Sheffield.
In the beginning there is even some footage of crucible steel manufacture.

https://film.britishcouncil.org/resources/film-archive/steel
#10
Knife Sharpening / Re: Knife restoration- Wade & ...
Last post by kwakster - Yesterday at 03:27:06 PM
Originally the blade used to be full convex ground, but sometime during it's existence a previous owner had sharpened a bit of a rough secundairy bevel into it.
So i reground the blade by hand to full convex again on 400 grit wet & dry using WD40 oil as a lubricant on a medium hard rubber backing (old piece of fiber reinforced conveyor belt)

The old blunt "edge" measured between 35 and 40 degrees inclusive, while the new edge apex fits almost exactly in the (specifically aimed for) 30 degrees inclusive slot of my Tormek WM200 Angle Master.
I do consider this a bit on the conservative side, as i think the steel can most likely handle a thinner edge geometry just fine, but for now i want to play it safe with this rare & valuable knife (to me anyway)
If need be further thinning can always be done later.

There is still a tiny burr on the apex, next step will be to refine the scratch pattern with probably 800 grit wet & dry.
After that the plan is to recut the swedge with a small diamond file followed by wet & dry paper & some WD40.
The handle has already been smooth sanded with 400 grit wet & dry and treated with several coats of warm Granger's wax.