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#1
Knife Sharpening / Re: Choosing a default angle
Last post by tgbto - Today at 11:05:14 AMQuote from: John_B on June 06, 2026, 01:13:00 AMQuote from: RichColvin on June 06, 2026, 12:10:04 AMWhen I hear concerns about using the KS-123 due to it being less than needed accuracy, I wonder why the angle on the blade must be accurate to 0.1°. In the sharpening I do for most things, if the angle is good to +/- 1 degree I am good. What am I missing?
Nothing.
I think this is an example of going to the extreme without any clear delineation of the benifit. When Wootz proposed some new idea he backed it up with extensive testing and real world usage in meat packing plants. I believe only a miniscule number of users have the ability to measure the angle to this accuracy.
If I may introduce a modicum of nuance and open-mindedness to "Nothing" :
- I agree being able to measure the edge angle with 0.1° precision has no benefit in terms of sharpness or edge retention
- However, being able to reproduce a given angle quickly with the smallest deviation possible results in raising a burr much faster, with less metal removal.
As we are talking small angles, the amount of metal being removed is proportional to the ratio of angles : you remove 5 times more metal if you're 1° off compared with .2° off. It is to me a clear delineation of the benefit. [EDIT] Actually, much more than this if you take into account cases where you will be thinning the blade [/EDIT]
#2
Drill Bit Sharpening / Re: New DBS-22 Setting Templat...
Last post by John Hancock Sr - June 07, 2026, 05:49:07 AMLooks fantastic. Putting in an order with my local printer -- AKA my son!
#3
Drill Bit Sharpening / New DBS-22 Setting Templates
Last post by RichColvin - June 06, 2026, 07:48:22 PMDan Heil developed a set of templates which make setting up the DBS-22 a lot easier when addressing the secondary grind. And, he added the capability for a tertiary grind as well.
There are separate templates for each clearance angle. Below are pictures of the one for 9° in use.
Primary facets
Secondary facets
Tertiary facets
These are based on these calculations:
The great value to this approach is the ease in setting the secondary (and tertiary) facets in a very repeatable manner. Additionally, it is easier and faster to use this method than the approach outlined in the DBS-22 user manual (pg. 11).This really comes into play when resharpening a number of drills at one time.
The files to 3D print these are at
There are separate templates for each clearance angle. Below are pictures of the one for 9° in use.
Primary facets
Secondary facets
Tertiary facets
These are based on these calculations:
- secondary facet angle = primary facet angle + 13°, and
- tertiary facet angle = secondary facet angle + 32°.
The great value to this approach is the ease in setting the secondary (and tertiary) facets in a very repeatable manner. Additionally, it is easier and faster to use this method than the approach outlined in the DBS-22 user manual (pg. 11).This really comes into play when resharpening a number of drills at one time.
The files to 3D print these are at
#4
Knife Sharpening / Re: Choosing a default angle
Last post by Rossy66 - June 06, 2026, 06:06:35 PMMy overall goal is to give a service that the customer deems necessary if they love to cook and the feedback they get from a knife sharpened by me makes them realize that I should be the one to maintain it for them. Being a professional plant based chef, I have to keep my knives in top condition as I am predominantly dealing with dense, fibrous ingredients so my Enso's are sharpened to 12° but I was not sure if most customers would notice a difference between 15°. 17° or even 20°, I have some knives that I have been doing tests on and I definitely notice a difference in angles but I have been cooking for over 40 years and quite a control freak.
It's been an eye opener hearing other sharpeners opinions on what angle they use for their customers, 15° being the norm, I just don't want customers coming back saying the knife was sharp for a couple of weeks and now not so much but I guess I can't control how they use and abuse their knives and a "one shoe fits all" approach shouldn't drive my business, It would be nice to have a "go to angle" that's sharp enough to make a difference but durable enough the last some time and allows me to maintain a decent speed so I can move through a medium to large volume of knives while maintain quality (I use two T8's, one course grit and one fine grit). Nirvana I guess.
It's been an eye opener hearing other sharpeners opinions on what angle they use for their customers, 15° being the norm, I just don't want customers coming back saying the knife was sharp for a couple of weeks and now not so much but I guess I can't control how they use and abuse their knives and a "one shoe fits all" approach shouldn't drive my business, It would be nice to have a "go to angle" that's sharp enough to make a difference but durable enough the last some time and allows me to maintain a decent speed so I can move through a medium to large volume of knives while maintain quality (I use two T8's, one course grit and one fine grit). Nirvana I guess.
#5
Knife Sharpening / Re: Choosing a default angle
Last post by John_B - June 06, 2026, 01:13:00 AMQuote from: RichColvin on June 06, 2026, 12:10:04 AMWhen I hear concerns about using the KS-123 due to it being less than needed accuracy, I wonder why the angle on the blade must be accurate to 0.1°. In the sharpening I do for most things, if the angle is good to +/- 1 degree I am good. What am I missing?
Nothing.
I think this is an example of going to the extreme without any clear delineation of the benifit. When Wootz proposed some new idea he backed it up with extensive testing and real world usage in meat packing plants. I believe only a miniscule number of users have the ability to measure the angle to this accuracy.
#6
Knife Sharpening / Re: Choosing a default angle
Last post by RichColvin - June 06, 2026, 12:10:04 AMWhen I hear concerns about using the KS-123 due to it being less than needed accuracy, I wonder why the angle on the blade must be accurate to 0.1°. In the sharpening I do for most things, if the angle is good to +/- 1 degree I am good. What am I missing?
#7
Knife Sharpening / Re: Choosing a default angle
Last post by tgbto - June 05, 2026, 08:37:26 AMThere are two phenomena with hysteresis here :
- One linked to the threaded rods, which can be compensated by always ending with slightly raising the USB. This is standard operation and does not cause any issue. It will prevent the USB from settling lower due to the rod moving slightly insided the nut before getting fastened.
- Another one linked to friction inside the KS-123. Going down, then up, will ensure that the error is always on the same side. For a given static friction coefficient, that is, which will depend on when it was lubricated, if it is slightly wet or not, how tight the nut is, etc. Plus, the amplitude of USB movement necessary to put the needle back in motion on the way up is much, much higher than with vernier calipers resting against the top of the USB and the wheel where only the slightest turn of MicroAdjust nut is enought to lift the lower end of the wheel.
So while using the down-then-up routine will minimize the error, it will still be more important than using the distance method, less reproducible, and therefore the amount of material that needs to be removed before raising a burr will statistically increase.
- One linked to the threaded rods, which can be compensated by always ending with slightly raising the USB. This is standard operation and does not cause any issue. It will prevent the USB from settling lower due to the rod moving slightly insided the nut before getting fastened.
- Another one linked to friction inside the KS-123. Going down, then up, will ensure that the error is always on the same side. For a given static friction coefficient, that is, which will depend on when it was lubricated, if it is slightly wet or not, how tight the nut is, etc. Plus, the amplitude of USB movement necessary to put the needle back in motion on the way up is much, much higher than with vernier calipers resting against the top of the USB and the wheel where only the slightest turn of MicroAdjust nut is enought to lift the lower end of the wheel.
So while using the down-then-up routine will minimize the error, it will still be more important than using the distance method, less reproducible, and therefore the amount of material that needs to be removed before raising a burr will statistically increase.
#8
General Tormek Questions / Re: true stone?
Last post by RichColvin - June 05, 2026, 04:44:06 AMThe SE-77 may also be misaligned. That is what prompted me to develop an alignment jig for it https://sharpeninghandbook.info/Jigs-SE-77-Alignment.html. You can easily 3d print one for yourself.
#9
Knife Sharpening / Re: Choosing a default angle
Last post by John Hancock Sr - June 04, 2026, 10:55:37 PMQuote from: Ken S on June 04, 2026, 10:43:54 PMTo borrow a phrase from Wolfgang, making your custom of making the final adjustment by raising the microadjust will serve you well. In itself, it may not be a big deal; however, small improvements compound.
Ken
Probably why I don't notice it. I allow for the slop in the mechanism, always have done. Force of habit.
#10
Knife Sharpening / Re: Choosing a default angle
Last post by Ken S - June 04, 2026, 10:43:54 PMTo borrow a phrase from Wolfgang, making your custom of making the final adjustment by raising the microadjust will serve you well. In itself, it may not be a big deal; however, small improvements compound.
Ken
Ken