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#1
Hand Tool Woodworking / Re: having 5 or six chisels to...
Last post by Dan - Yesterday at 04:31:44 PMHello,
Not sure what you mean by the 'rough stone setting'. The rough stone setting is the 220 grade. In general, you need to keep the chisel in the jig for both initial rough grind (220 grade) and then the same exact angle once you make the wheel smoother (1000 grade)
This allows for a finer finish in exactly the same angle. You should see no difference in the grind except finer lines.
All it takes is 10 - 20 seconds using the stone grader to make the wheel less abrasive. (Or more abrasive the other way round)
Once the grind is finished, you can remove the chisel from the jig and do the honing on the honing wheel, normally freehand.
In reality the grading of the stone is not so precise. It is at its most abrasive just after truing it with the diamond truing tool. After that it generally settles down to around 600.
You can make it more rough or smooth with the grading tool but it is not really 220 or 1000!
The basic idea is to use the rough cut for more metal removal when you need to and then finish it with the finer grind.
I, and others, tend to use a diamond plate of different grades to roughen or to smooth the stone.
See this Tormek video for a good example of chisel sharpening
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yd6nnexsPjY
When I sharpen my knives, I like to hone at a precise angle using a different honing wheel setup.
That's a different story...
Danny
P.S. There are many useful videos on the Tormek channel for all sorts of sharpening.
P.P.S. The chisels will be less sharp pretty quickly especially if used on harder woods or very resinous softwoods.
When it loses its edge, it is possible to just touch up the cutting edge on a stone afterwards. The hollow grind of the Tormek helps this a lot.
P.P.P.S. Welcome to the sharpening rabbit hole
Not sure what you mean by the 'rough stone setting'. The rough stone setting is the 220 grade. In general, you need to keep the chisel in the jig for both initial rough grind (220 grade) and then the same exact angle once you make the wheel smoother (1000 grade)
This allows for a finer finish in exactly the same angle. You should see no difference in the grind except finer lines.
All it takes is 10 - 20 seconds using the stone grader to make the wheel less abrasive. (Or more abrasive the other way round)
Once the grind is finished, you can remove the chisel from the jig and do the honing on the honing wheel, normally freehand.
In reality the grading of the stone is not so precise. It is at its most abrasive just after truing it with the diamond truing tool. After that it generally settles down to around 600.
You can make it more rough or smooth with the grading tool but it is not really 220 or 1000!
The basic idea is to use the rough cut for more metal removal when you need to and then finish it with the finer grind.
I, and others, tend to use a diamond plate of different grades to roughen or to smooth the stone.
See this Tormek video for a good example of chisel sharpening
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yd6nnexsPjY
When I sharpen my knives, I like to hone at a precise angle using a different honing wheel setup.
That's a different story...
Danny
P.S. There are many useful videos on the Tormek channel for all sorts of sharpening.
P.P.S. The chisels will be less sharp pretty quickly especially if used on harder woods or very resinous softwoods.
When it loses its edge, it is possible to just touch up the cutting edge on a stone afterwards. The hollow grind of the Tormek helps this a lot.
P.P.P.S. Welcome to the sharpening rabbit hole
#2
General Tormek Questions / Re: Shutting down
Last post by Rjje - Yesterday at 04:30:56 PMI got a new machine, works perfect 
Tormek suport 💪💪
Tormek suport 💪💪
#3
Hand Tool Woodworking / having 5 or six chisels to sha...
Last post by kingkey - Yesterday at 11:34:18 AMHi from the UK here, total newbie to a Tormek T 8, My first post so please be gentle,
I trained as a chef many years ago and have sharpened my knives to a great edge.
however my son in law is a carpenter and is giving me his chisels to sharpen ,i have watched plenty of videos from both Tormek and individuals ,
So i have used the truing tool to cut the wheel both square and round and am ready to do my first chisel !
My question to you guys is do i sharpen them all with the rough stone setting first then when all 6 are done go to the 220 setting for all 6 , then go to the 1000 grit for all then hone
Or do i do 1 chisel at a time changing the wheel twice , wont this wear the stone out quickly or does it not really impact the stone so much ,
Thankyou for your time and sorry if its a daft question
I trained as a chef many years ago and have sharpened my knives to a great edge.
however my son in law is a carpenter and is giving me his chisels to sharpen ,i have watched plenty of videos from both Tormek and individuals ,
So i have used the truing tool to cut the wheel both square and round and am ready to do my first chisel !
My question to you guys is do i sharpen them all with the rough stone setting first then when all 6 are done go to the 220 setting for all 6 , then go to the 1000 grit for all then hone
Or do i do 1 chisel at a time changing the wheel twice , wont this wear the stone out quickly or does it not really impact the stone so much ,
Thankyou for your time and sorry if its a daft question
#4
General Tormek Questions / Re: Stone will not turn if you...
Last post by Ken S - September 05, 2026, 11:30:01 PMI agree with Haio Paio. Email support ([email protected]). Capacitor problems are not uncommon with twenty year old machines and are usually corrected.
Ken
Ken
#5
General Tormek Questions / Re: Stone will not turn if you...
Last post by HaioPaio - September 05, 2026, 10:30:59 PMNevertheless, I suggest to contact Tormek support. This motor works in conjunction with a capacitor. When this capacitor is defect, the motor looses torque and can be pushed to start in either direction. This is not possible with a fully functioning machine.
#6
General Tormek Questions / Re: Stone will not turn if you...
Last post by Cliff - September 05, 2026, 04:59:36 PMI found out that I was running the stone in the wrong direction that's why the stone would slow down and stop when I applied pressure.
Seams I'm ok now and it is running correctly.
Thanks,
Cliff
Seams I'm ok now and it is running correctly.
Thanks,
Cliff
#7
Tormek T-1 and T-2 / Re: Tormek T1 - am I expecting...
Last post by AJB Temple - September 04, 2026, 08:04:11 PMThanks.This one is not a thick blade - nothing like a big Deba for example.
#8
Tormek T-1 and T-2 / Re: Tormek T1 - am I expecting...
Last post by tgbto - September 04, 2026, 03:03:01 PMIf you're sharepning a knife with a thick blade, you might be reprofiling it even if the sharpie test comes out okayish. So you'll have to remove a lot of material before consistently hitting the APEX, which the T1 is not good at. It may require thinning the knife with a more suitable device beforehand. This is compounded with hard steels.
#9
Tormek T-1 and T-2 / Re: T1: Damage to the composit...
Last post by AJB Temple - September 04, 2026, 10:27:48 AMI would be surprised if it is not still perfectly usable. Leather strops frequently have nicks in them and that doesn't affect performance. My limited T1 experience is a hand strop block is faster than the T1 at honing and better. But to be fair I have had a lot of practice.
#10
Tormek T-1 and T-2 / Re: Tormek T1 - am I expecting...
Last post by AJB Temple - September 04, 2026, 10:25:40 AMYes, almost all of the German knives (not the flexible slicers) have traditional bolsters and I agree from a sharpening perspective they are a pain.
I used the T1 early this morning on a Misono 10 (Japanese knife, Swedish steel) and that was sharp in two or three passes. That knife is more of a laser. At present I find hand stropping more effective than the T1 rotary strop.
I have still not got my original Japanese test knife seriously sharp on the T1. Puzzling. Maybe it only works well with thin blades or softer steel.
I used the T1 early this morning on a Misono 10 (Japanese knife, Swedish steel) and that was sharp in two or three passes. That knife is more of a laser. At present I find hand stropping more effective than the T1 rotary strop.
I have still not got my original Japanese test knife seriously sharp on the T1. Puzzling. Maybe it only works well with thin blades or softer steel.