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#1
General Tormek Questions / Re: Shutting down
Last post by Rjje - Today at 05:08:25 PMI haven't received a response from Tormek Support yet. I'll wait a couple more days before following up, as it may be due to the holiday season.
But I'll keep you updated if anything happens.
But I'll keep you updated if anything happens.
#2
Knife Sharpening / Re: Paper Wheels
Last post by kwakster - Today at 03:42:34 PMCurrently busy with the same mod of another Gerber Applegate-Fairbairn folder like i showed earlier a few pages back.
This is how the knife looked when i received it from the owner, still with a single edge & an edge angle between 40 and 45 degrees inclusive.
And this is how the knife looks after grinding the new edge on the back of the blade & trying to match it with the reprofiled edge on the other side.
The scratch pattern complete with burr remains still present on the apex comes from a Rubber Wheel coated with ~ 170 grit diamond powder & wax.
The idea was to make the 2 edges / 4 bevels as visually similar in width & curvature as i could, with a specific edge angle of ~ 35 degrees inclusive, without damaging the names on the blade, and to create a new point that would be centered as much as possible.
Trying to achieve all these things at the same time freehand, together with many visual checks with a Victorinox loupe in between passes isn't easy, so i took my time.
Below you can see the end result after refining the initial edges with a Paper Wheel coated with 15 micron diamond compound & deburring with a second Paper Wheel coated with 0.25 diamond compound.
Both edges are treetopping sharp.
This is how Applegate intended the knife to be, a true folding dagger.
It can still be carried in your pocket, but the top edge is only about 2-3 millimeters inside the handle, so when deliberately trying i can just feel the apex with my index finger.
Now the thumb lugs stop on the grooved linerlock tab, so it would be easy to use a file or a Dremel on it's surface to lower the blade a tiny bit deeper inside the handle for added safety, as there is some room for it.
This is how the knife looked when i received it from the owner, still with a single edge & an edge angle between 40 and 45 degrees inclusive.
And this is how the knife looks after grinding the new edge on the back of the blade & trying to match it with the reprofiled edge on the other side.
The scratch pattern complete with burr remains still present on the apex comes from a Rubber Wheel coated with ~ 170 grit diamond powder & wax.
The idea was to make the 2 edges / 4 bevels as visually similar in width & curvature as i could, with a specific edge angle of ~ 35 degrees inclusive, without damaging the names on the blade, and to create a new point that would be centered as much as possible.
Trying to achieve all these things at the same time freehand, together with many visual checks with a Victorinox loupe in between passes isn't easy, so i took my time.
Below you can see the end result after refining the initial edges with a Paper Wheel coated with 15 micron diamond compound & deburring with a second Paper Wheel coated with 0.25 diamond compound.
Both edges are treetopping sharp.
This is how Applegate intended the knife to be, a true folding dagger.
It can still be carried in your pocket, but the top edge is only about 2-3 millimeters inside the handle, so when deliberately trying i can just feel the apex with my index finger.
Now the thumb lugs stop on the grooved linerlock tab, so it would be easy to use a file or a Dremel on it's surface to lower the blade a tiny bit deeper inside the handle for added safety, as there is some room for it.
#3
Hand Tool Woodworking / Re: Preparing New Chisels
Last post by KaithyHong - Today at 02:25:18 PMOne thing that's helped me is making a couple of light test passes before trying to remove much material. It gives you a chance to check the angle and contact without committing too early. A marker on the bevel is also a quick way to see if everything is lining up correctly.
#4
Tormek T4 and T4 Bushcraft / Re: T4 - Wobble (video include...
Last post by tgbto - Today at 08:24:54 AMThen a solid option would be to contact Tormek support ([email protected]).
#5
Scissors Sharpening / Re: Deburring?
Last post by RickKrung - Today at 03:56:34 AMWhere does the procedure/process of deburring by "opening" the blades against each other - after having held them apart so they do not touch when closing them - fit in the scheme of scissors deburring. I'm not sure where else I heard/saw this professed, other than Steve Bottorff, Sharpening Made Easy, but I'm pretty sure I have.
Also, I have heard/read/seen that dragging scissors through wood end grain does not adequately deburr them, meaning I believe there is some disagreement about this method. It really is only able to remove small burrs and can leave ragged tags of burrs.
Also, I have heard/read/seen that dragging scissors through wood end grain does not adequately deburr them, meaning I believe there is some disagreement about this method. It really is only able to remove small burrs and can leave ragged tags of burrs.
#6
Knife Sharpening / Re: Knife restoration - NYKC H...
Last post by John Hancock Sr - Today at 02:05:07 AMQuote from: kwakster on Yesterday at 11:07:58 AMit was already rather dry again when i applied the Ballistol
Yes. I probably would have given it (now I know!) a though clean with turps before applying the Ballistol.
#7
Scissors Sharpening / Re: Deburring?
Last post by John Hancock Sr - Today at 02:00:20 AMScissors need some roughness to cut effectively. If you strop then the edge is too smooth and the paper or cloth will tend to slip. This does not apply to secateurs or shears since they are cutting much more sturdy material.
The wood method will remove the burr without damaging the edge too much. Closing them would perhaps be too violent on the edge and tend to rip holes into the edge.
The wood method will remove the burr without damaging the edge too much. Closing them would perhaps be too violent on the edge and tend to rip holes into the edge.
#8
General Tormek Questions / Re: T-4 Limescale Cleaning
Last post by bacallado - Yesterday at 08:24:07 PMMany thanks for the replies so far!
That was blunt, but totally necessary haha. If I drank that water I would have a stone the size of a fist in my kidney, so yes, in hindsight absolutely not a good decision and I definitively would not make that mistake twice. Thanks for the eye opener!
Any leads on how can I securely take apart the motor from the head of the machine? It seems that the citric acid seems to be the consensus to remove the scale, but submerging the part in any liquid doesn't seem an option with an electric motor attached... I have read somewhere in this forum a very scarce indication where somebody says to knock the flat edge of the pin... but that´s for a T-8. That´s all the info I got.
Quote from: Ken S on July 26, 2026, 09:53:50 PMMy first question is, do you drink this water? If not, why would you allow it to be used in your Tormek?
That was blunt, but totally necessary haha. If I drank that water I would have a stone the size of a fist in my kidney, so yes, in hindsight absolutely not a good decision and I definitively would not make that mistake twice. Thanks for the eye opener!
Any leads on how can I securely take apart the motor from the head of the machine? It seems that the citric acid seems to be the consensus to remove the scale, but submerging the part in any liquid doesn't seem an option with an electric motor attached... I have read somewhere in this forum a very scarce indication where somebody says to knock the flat edge of the pin... but that´s for a T-8. That´s all the info I got.
#9
Tormek T4 and T4 Bushcraft / Re: T4 - Wobble (video include...
Last post by NorSharp88 - Yesterday at 04:49:44 PMQuote from: tgbto on Yesterday at 04:37:45 PMI don't believe the second knife (the one with the black handle) has been suddenly "eaten" by your T8. It has seen a lot of sharpening time before it went to a standard convex (or straight) shape to this concave shape.
The first one I can believe, and is a common problem with Tormek machines. It can be avoided with :
- careful technique (compensating by spending longer at the heel, not using too much pressure, ...)
- a few tips. Notably, the biggest improvement for me was rounding out the shoulders of the wheel after truing it. Too sharp corners will dig into the blade whenever the blade does not rest fully flat against the stone. Also, I always make sure to lay down the knife ever so slightly tilted so the heel hits the stone first and not the other way around. Of course you have to aim for flat, but better to err on the heel-first side rather than heel-last.
As for your wobble, is your video taken right after truing ? That would be odd. My bet would be that the stone has been trued, taken off, then put back on, but rotated. There has to be some clearance for the wheel to slide onto the shaft. So if you put it back in a position that's different from the one used for truing, then that will create some wobble (proportional to 1-cos(alpha_truing-alpha_sharpening) ). Standard practice is to always put the stone on the shaft "label up".
Also, please keep in mind that such wobble is unstable. Said otherwise : it will create a more uneven surface over time, especially if you use heavy pressure : the blade will kind of dig in each time it encounters a low spot, making it even lower. This is another reason to use reasonable pressure, and to often true the wheel a little as opposed to seldom true it a lot. However, if every part of the blade sees the wheel a similar amount of time, the effect of this wobble will be homogeneous along the length of the blade and will not create dishing.
Hope this helps!
Hello!
Yes, the video is taken seconds after I once again tried to get the stone level.
As for placement of the stone, I always orient it with the label facing upwards.
I see the wobbling on the honing wheel also, so I suspect the shaft itself is no longer straight or something inside the machine is causing it to jump up and down, because one of my plants on the table where the Tormek is placed seems to be swaying rhythmically to the machine as well.
BTW, I have the T4, not the T8.
#10
Tormek T4 and T4 Bushcraft / Re: T4 - Wobble (video include...
Last post by tgbto - Yesterday at 04:37:45 PMI don't believe the second knife (the one with the black handle) has been suddenly "eaten" by your T8. It has seen a lot of sharpening time before it went to a standard convex (or straight) shape to this concave shape.
The first one I can believe, and is a common problem with Tormek machines. It can be avoided with :
- careful technique (compensating by spending longer at the heel, not using too much pressure, ...)
- a few tips. Notably, the biggest improvement for me was rounding out the shoulders of the wheel after truing it. Too sharp corners will dig into the blade whenever the blade does not rest fully flat against the stone. Also, I always make sure to lay down the knife ever so slightly tilted so the heel hits the stone first and not the other way around. Of course you have to aim for flat, but better to err on the heel-first side rather than heel-last.
As for your wobble, is your video taken right after truing ? That would be odd. My bet would be that the stone has been trued, taken off, then put back on, but rotated. There has to be some clearance for the wheel to slide onto the shaft. So if you put it back in a position that's different from the one used for truing, then that will create some wobble (proportional to 1-cos(alpha_truing-alpha_sharpening) ). Standard practice is to always put the stone on the shaft "label up".
Also, please keep in mind that such wobble is unstable. Said otherwise : it will create a more uneven surface over time, especially if you use heavy pressure : the blade will kind of dig in each time it encounters a low spot, making it even lower. This is another reason to use reasonable pressure, and to often true the wheel a little as opposed to seldom true it a lot. However, if every part of the blade sees the wheel a similar amount of time, the effect of this wobble will be homogeneous along the length of the blade and will not create dishing.
Hope this helps!
The first one I can believe, and is a common problem with Tormek machines. It can be avoided with :
- careful technique (compensating by spending longer at the heel, not using too much pressure, ...)
- a few tips. Notably, the biggest improvement for me was rounding out the shoulders of the wheel after truing it. Too sharp corners will dig into the blade whenever the blade does not rest fully flat against the stone. Also, I always make sure to lay down the knife ever so slightly tilted so the heel hits the stone first and not the other way around. Of course you have to aim for flat, but better to err on the heel-first side rather than heel-last.
As for your wobble, is your video taken right after truing ? That would be odd. My bet would be that the stone has been trued, taken off, then put back on, but rotated. There has to be some clearance for the wheel to slide onto the shaft. So if you put it back in a position that's different from the one used for truing, then that will create some wobble (proportional to 1-cos(alpha_truing-alpha_sharpening) ). Standard practice is to always put the stone on the shaft "label up".
Also, please keep in mind that such wobble is unstable. Said otherwise : it will create a more uneven surface over time, especially if you use heavy pressure : the blade will kind of dig in each time it encounters a low spot, making it even lower. This is another reason to use reasonable pressure, and to often true the wheel a little as opposed to seldom true it a lot. However, if every part of the blade sees the wheel a similar amount of time, the effect of this wobble will be homogeneous along the length of the blade and will not create dishing.
Hope this helps!