Recent posts

#1

Drill Bit Sharpening / Re: Getting the secondary beve...

Last post by RichColvin - Today at 03:01:38 PM

I agree with John & Rick.

#2

Hand Tool Woodworking / Re: chisel question replies

Last post by John Hancock Sr - Today at 09:16:53 AM

Focus on only one chisel. Do not be distracted by thinking about multiple chisels until your first chisel is completely sharpened.

Agree. I have also found this to be the most effected approach.

#3

Hand Tool Woodworking / chisel question replies

Last post by Ken S - Today at 07:43:27 AM

Kingken and Jimmyboy.

I apologize for my delay in replying to your posts. While your posts are not identical, I believe one more in depth reply will be more effective than individual replies. Individual issues can be covered in follow up replies.

For several years  I sharpened only chisels and hand plane irons. Eventually I added knives; however, chisels and plane irons have always been my first love. Some basic guidelines:

I will concentrate on chisels for simplicity. As chisels are generally made from high carbon steel, I will concentrate on the SG grinding wheel. Proper chisel sharpening includes flattening and polishing the back of the chisel; however, this is well covered elsewhere, so I will only mention it briefly here.

Focus on only one chisel. Do not be distracted by thinking about multiple chisels until your first chisel is completely sharpened. This is the point to discuss the stone grader. Use the coarse side of the stone grader until the bevel is sharp and ground square. At that point, use the fine side of the stone grader to refine the scratch pattern of the bevel. Do not remove the chisel from the jig until sharpening is complete. Removing the chisel will introduce set up errors which will increase grinding time and wear on the tool and the stone.

I consider grinding wheels to be long  time consumables, like brake parts.

Sequencing can save you much frustration. The quarter inch chisel can be the most difficult to grind square. Your widest chisel can be very time consuming to grind. Start with a chisel in the half to three quarter inch range. Start with a chisel mostly square and not too dull. You will want to have a black marker and a small square.

Tormek makes a very effective (
patented) set up accessory which will speed up your set up time. The TTS-100 Turning Tool Setter was originally designed to set up turning tools. It also works very well with setting up chisels and planes. The A and B holes standardize setting up the distance between the grinding wheel and the support bar. The two patented metal wheels autocorrect grinding wheel wear. After setting up one chisel twelve years ago, I have not needed to setup any chisels since then.

Set up in good light and do not be in a hurry. Enjoy the process.
Keep us posted.

Ken

#4

Drill Bit Sharpening / Re: Getting the secondary beve...

Last post by RickKrung - Today at 07:32:34 AM

...snip...
I would suggest to start by lining up the drill to start with based on how much damage there is, broken vs severe chipping, then re-adjust as you get close to done with the primary bevel.

Yes, this what I was trying to get at, although the latter part of John's point is a good one, you don't need to just keep grinding until the flutes line up, okay/good to re-adjust them when the flutes are cleaned up so the final grinding is at the angle provided when lined up. 

#5

General Tormek Questions / Re: Stone will not turn if you...

Last post by John Hancock Sr - Today at 04:20:59 AM

used the emery cloth to clean the surface however this did not really help much

If it is the drive wheel then yes, I had the same issue. Abrasive is fine but I find a vert much better solutions is to use belt grip. It is used for drive belts for when they glaze and begin to slip. You can get it in a small pot or spray can. It is available from your local automotive store.

I remove the honing wheel. Place a paper towel or cloth under the shaft to catch the drips. Set the machine running. Spray a small amount onto the drive wheel. Turn the machine off and clean up the excess. I found t works a treat.

#6

Tormek T-1 and T-2 / Re: T1: Damage to the composit...

Last post by John Hancock Sr - Today at 04:14:46 AM

Is the composite wheel still usable,

You will be perfectly fine

#7

Drill Bit Sharpening / Re: Getting the secondary beve...

Last post by John Hancock Sr - Today at 04:10:09 AM

I would say one does not need to rotate all the way to the slanted lines, depending

It will also depend on the flute geometry. The flutes vary slightly depending on the exact design of the drill, say for wood, brass, ductile steel carbon steel &etc, and the manufacturer.

I would suggest to start by lining up the drill to start with based on how much damage there is, broken vs severe chipping, then re-adjust as you get close to done with the primary bevel.

#8

General Tormek Questions / Re: Sharpening salon scissors ...

Last post by Royale - Today at 03:02:28 AM

I use the Hira To for sharpening hairdressing and grooming shears, more specifically for blades with convex geometries.

The one thing my Hira To has, that my Tormek T8 lacks, is the small level of give (or sponginess) in the velcro backed sanding discs.

The low level sponginess (from the velcro backing) allows me to round the convex edge without rounding the apex, and it creates a scratch pattern perpendicular to the apex.

I have tried just once using the side of my SJ-250 to sharpen a pair of hairdressing shears, and it worked. But that was pure luck.

I think the grindstones should theoretically work, but the vulnerability to error is just way too high for my liking.

#9

Knife Sharpening / Re: New angle jig KS-123

Last post by tgbto - Yesterday at 08:19:19 AM

I test every knife with a Bess Tester, my results are the same whether I measure or use the KS-123.  If you use the same care setting up the KS-123 as you do measuring, I would, with confidence state, you could possibly be more accurate using it.

Whatever the real accuracy of the KS-123, I think it is good enough that you won't be able to tell the results apart by BESS testing. +/- 1dps won't have any significant impact on sharpness. If you follow this train of thought, even the AngleMaster or a plain protractor will get you very sharp knives. Initial sharpness depends more on technique than absolute edge angle measured with a .1 dps precision.

+/- 1 dps will have a significant impact on metal removal though, so the real question is : "is the KS-123 consistent enough that I can get very very close to the angle I used the previous time ?" I can't, but I have stopped using the KS-123 more than very occasionally. On my everyday knives, which I sharpen the most, measuring usually gets me a burr on the first pass, second pass at worst. Most of my time is spent honing the burr away.

As to the KS-123 being *more accurate* than measuring, evidence would further this theory more than confidence.

#10

General Tormek Questions / Re: Sharpening salon scissors ...

Last post by Sir Amwell - September 10, 2026, 10:01:03 PM

Yes I agree that in theory it could be done.
However I think it would be difficult.
If you are expert at free handing expensive, fully convexed salon scissors on a flat hone, eg hirato. Then yes try it.
But if you are not then buy some very cheap convexed scissors and practice, practice, practice.
Also be aware that the hirato has an angle controlled jig to mount the scissors in, and unless you are a complete master, free-handing these type of blades is extremely difficult.
Please promise me you won't jump in at the deep end and run the risk of ruining a hairstylist's expensive scissors!