Recent posts

#1

General Tormek Questions / T8 Damaged in Shipping

Last post by pkern - Today at 07:19:16 PM

Hello. My new T8 Original was damaged during shipping. The motor is contacting the adjustment for the water tray, and when I raise the water tray, the motor loses tension on the drive wheel. Can this be fixed? It seems like a stout motor and housing so I don't see a way to bend it back or straighten it. Can anyone tell me which parts need to be replaced? Thanks in advance.

#2

Knife Sharpening / Re: How to achieve less than 1...

Last post by BPalv - Yesterday at 10:23:36 PM

You are probably being facetious. My method defiled logic, but I was serious.

Here are the BESS scores for the last three CraftKitchen knives I have sharpened. It takes about 3 passes on the first side to raise a burr. I use very light pressure. 

New 220
Sharpened 160
Honed 1st 105
Honed 2nd 115
Honed 3rd 85

New 160
Sharpened 120
Honed 85

New 310
Sharpened 145
Honed 75

3D your method seems similar to mine.  Go to Walmart.  Buy a CraftKitchen knife for $6.  Only use the rough grit.  Only use very light pressure sharpening and honing.  Use 15 degrees per side.  Please let me know what your BESS scores were New, Sharpened and Honed. 

Thanks.

Pretty spot on... For me, the amount of pressure needed to strop effectively does vary.  Some steels generate larger and more stubborn burrs. Buck's sport an exceptional temper generating a hard burr. I find increasing the pressure a tad helps remove that burr.  So for me, the pressure needed and the angle can change depending on the steel and temper.

#3

General Tormek Questions / Re: Tormek T8 Water tray eleva...

Last post by pkern - Yesterday at 04:13:03 AM

Can this be fixed?

#4

Drill Bit Sharpening / Re: Getting the secondary beve...

Last post by RichColvin - September 12, 2026, 03:01:38 PM

I agree with John & Rick.

#5

Hand Tool Woodworking / Re: chisel question replies

Last post by John Hancock Sr - September 12, 2026, 09:16:53 AM

Focus on only one chisel. Do not be distracted by thinking about multiple chisels until your first chisel is completely sharpened.

Agree. I have also found this to be the most effected approach.

#6

Hand Tool Woodworking / chisel question replies

Last post by Ken S - September 12, 2026, 07:43:27 AM

Kingken and Jimmyboy.

I apologize for my delay in replying to your posts. While your posts are not identical, I believe one more in depth reply will be more effective than individual replies. Individual issues can be covered in follow up replies.

For several years  I sharpened only chisels and hand plane irons. Eventually I added knives; however, chisels and plane irons have always been my first love. Some basic guidelines:

I will concentrate on chisels for simplicity. As chisels are generally made from high carbon steel, I will concentrate on the SG grinding wheel. Proper chisel sharpening includes flattening and polishing the back of the chisel; however, this is well covered elsewhere, so I will only mention it briefly here.

Focus on only one chisel. Do not be distracted by thinking about multiple chisels until your first chisel is completely sharpened. This is the point to discuss the stone grader. Use the coarse side of the stone grader until the bevel is sharp and ground square. At that point, use the fine side of the stone grader to refine the scratch pattern of the bevel. Do not remove the chisel from the jig until sharpening is complete. Removing the chisel will introduce set up errors which will increase grinding time and wear on the tool and the stone.

I consider grinding wheels to be long  time consumables, like brake parts.

Sequencing can save you much frustration. The quarter inch chisel can be the most difficult to grind square. Your widest chisel can be very time consuming to grind. Start with a chisel in the half to three quarter inch range. Start with a chisel mostly square and not too dull. You will want to have a black marker and a small square.

Tormek makes a very effective (
patented) set up accessory which will speed up your set up time. The TTS-100 Turning Tool Setter was originally designed to set up turning tools. It also works very well with setting up chisels and planes. The A and B holes standardize setting up the distance between the grinding wheel and the support bar. The two patented metal wheels autocorrect grinding wheel wear. After setting up one chisel twelve years ago, I have not needed to setup any chisels since then.

Set up in good light and do not be in a hurry. Enjoy the process.
Keep us posted.

Ken

#7

Drill Bit Sharpening / Re: Getting the secondary beve...

Last post by RickKrung - September 12, 2026, 07:32:34 AM

...snip...
I would suggest to start by lining up the drill to start with based on how much damage there is, broken vs severe chipping, then re-adjust as you get close to done with the primary bevel.

Yes, this what I was trying to get at, although the latter part of John's point is a good one, you don't need to just keep grinding until the flutes line up, okay/good to re-adjust them when the flutes are cleaned up so the final grinding is at the angle provided when lined up. 

#8

General Tormek Questions / Re: Stone will not turn if you...

Last post by John Hancock Sr - September 12, 2026, 04:20:59 AM

used the emery cloth to clean the surface however this did not really help much

If it is the drive wheel then yes, I had the same issue. Abrasive is fine but I find a vert much better solutions is to use belt grip. It is used for drive belts for when they glaze and begin to slip. You can get it in a small pot or spray can. It is available from your local automotive store.

I remove the honing wheel. Place a paper towel or cloth under the shaft to catch the drips. Set the machine running. Spray a small amount onto the drive wheel. Turn the machine off and clean up the excess. I found t works a treat.

#9

Tormek T-1 and T-2 / Re: T1: Damage to the composit...

Last post by John Hancock Sr - September 12, 2026, 04:14:46 AM

Is the composite wheel still usable,

You will be perfectly fine

#10

Drill Bit Sharpening / Re: Getting the secondary beve...

Last post by John Hancock Sr - September 12, 2026, 04:10:09 AM

I would say one does not need to rotate all the way to the slanted lines, depending

It will also depend on the flute geometry. The flutes vary slightly depending on the exact design of the drill, say for wood, brass, ductile steel carbon steel &etc, and the manufacturer.

I would suggest to start by lining up the drill to start with based on how much damage there is, broken vs severe chipping, then re-adjust as you get close to done with the primary bevel.