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Recent posts
#1
Knife Sharpening / Dishing on Right Side of Blade
Last post by Mark Greene - Yesterday at 07:05:00 PMI'm new here and new to using a Tormek. But not new to sharpening. I'm getting some constant dishing on the back third of the blade only on the right side. Left side coming out great - nice even bevel all the way from heel to point. I'm right handed (which controls left side of blade) so maybe left hand needs to learn. Frustrating.
Any advice much appreciated.
Here's a radical example of what I'm talking about.
Any advice much appreciated.
Here's a radical example of what I'm talking about.
#2
General Tormek Questions / Printable version of the Sharp...
Last post by RichColvin - November 06, 2026, 02:36:38 PMI've had requests to make the Sharpening Handbook available as an actual book. To date, I've not done that as it becomes too static and cannot accommodate updates which I make over time. Also, I was not sure how to incorporate web links and videos.
The compromise I arrived at is to make it a series of chapters. These can be updated as they need to be. And to keep the cost down for users of the Sharpening Handbook, it is available as PDFs you can print.
To access the printable version, click on the link on the lower right corner of the opening page.
The compromise I arrived at is to make it a series of chapters. These can be updated as they need to be. And to keep the cost down for users of the Sharpening Handbook, it is available as PDFs you can print.
To access the printable version, click on the link on the lower right corner of the opening page.
#3
General Tormek Questions / Re: Is there a way to prevent ...
Last post by Thy Will Be Done - November 05, 2026, 01:56:59 PMI will add my experience here, never having had the problem the OP mentions. I also correctly grease my main shaft with heavy wheel bearing grease made by Lubriplate. This doesn't mean smearing a light coat of grease on the main shaft. It means greasing it heavily enough that when you rebuild the machine after greasing it will inevitably push some grease out along the way. This means there will be sufficient grease to hold the spacer nice and tight to the machine. Problem solved, forever, if you keep your unit greased properly.
#4
Knife Sharpening / Re: Goniometer - MASTER
Last post by Arthur King - November 04, 2026, 05:02:27 PM,,Vetako products are now available through their new website: manualsharpening/com... They do ship to North America btw." 
#5
Tormek T-1 and T-2 / Re: New DC-150
Last post by John Hancock Sr - November 04, 2026, 10:05:12 AMThey are advertising it on Facebook
https://shop.tormek.com/de-eu/products/conical-diamond-wheel-coarse-repair
https://shop.tormek.com/de-eu/products/conical-diamond-wheel-coarse-repair
#6
Tormek T-1 and T-2 / Re: New DC-150
Last post by RichColvin - November 04, 2026, 02:44:13 AMJohn,
I can't find that on the Tormek site. Where did you see this?
Rich
I can't find that on the Tormek site. Where did you see this?
Rich
#7
Tormek T-1 and T-2 / New DC-150
Last post by John Hancock Sr - November 03, 2026, 06:24:41 PMIt appears that Tormek now have a coarse wheel for the T1, the DC-150.
#8
Knife Sharpening / Re: Thinning layered Japanese ...
Last post by tgbto - October 27, 2026, 08:34:13 AMIf your blade is still usable, shape-wise, after having lost 8 mm of height, then two things :
- you don't *have to* remove these layers if the blade is still thin enough, they will sharpen easily and the cutting will still be done by the hard steel
- if the blade is significantly thicker at this point, you have to thin it exactly the same way you'd do with any knife : grind it at a shallow angle till you have a "zero edge" (little to no bevel due to the thinness of the blade) then sharpen it at your usual angle.
How shallow of an angle you want is a matter for discussion. As a rule, you want it significantly below your sharpening angle, but still significantly higher than the base angle of the blade from spine to original edge. So if, say, your base angle is 1dps, and your usual sharpening angle is 15dps, 3 to 4 dps is a safe bet.
Your base angle is arcsin(spine_thickness/(2*original_blade_height)). Also, please note that this will take time on a Tormek, and must not be rushed.
- you don't *have to* remove these layers if the blade is still thin enough, they will sharpen easily and the cutting will still be done by the hard steel
- if the blade is significantly thicker at this point, you have to thin it exactly the same way you'd do with any knife : grind it at a shallow angle till you have a "zero edge" (little to no bevel due to the thinness of the blade) then sharpen it at your usual angle.
How shallow of an angle you want is a matter for discussion. As a rule, you want it significantly below your sharpening angle, but still significantly higher than the base angle of the blade from spine to original edge. So if, say, your base angle is 1dps, and your usual sharpening angle is 15dps, 3 to 4 dps is a safe bet.
Your base angle is arcsin(spine_thickness/(2*original_blade_height)). Also, please note that this will take time on a Tormek, and must not be rushed.
#9
Knife Sharpening / Thinning layered Japanese knif...
Last post by Jgushue - October 27, 2026, 01:59:20 AMHi, the blade has been sharpened in the past so that the two soft outer layers are now at the cutting edge. When new, these layers were 6-8mm up from the cutting edge. How do I pull these layers back up away from the hard edge. I have a t-8. Joe
#10
General Tormek Questions / Re: T8 user, starting to get b...
Last post by tgbto - October 26, 2026, 11:25:53 AM