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#1
Tormek T-1 and T-2 / Re: T1: Damage to the composit...
Last post by AJB Temple - Today at 10:27:48 AMI would be surprised if it is not still perfectly usable. Leather strops frequently have nicks in them and that doesn't affect performance. My limited T1 experience is a hand strop block is faster than the T1 at honing and better. But to be fair I have had a lot of practice.
#2
Tormek T-1 and T-2 / Re: Tormek T1 - am I expecting...
Last post by AJB Temple - Today at 10:25:40 AMYes, almost all of the German knives (not the flexible slicers) have traditional bolsters and I agree from a sharpening perspective they are a pain.
I used the T1 early this morning on a Misono 10 (Japanese knife, Swedish steel) and that was sharp in two or three passes. That knife is more of a laser. At present I find hand stropping more effective than the T1 rotary strop.
I have still not got my original Japanese test knife seriously sharp on the T1. Puzzling. Maybe it only works well with thin blades or softer steel.
I used the T1 early this morning on a Misono 10 (Japanese knife, Swedish steel) and that was sharp in two or three passes. That knife is more of a laser. At present I find hand stropping more effective than the T1 rotary strop.
I have still not got my original Japanese test knife seriously sharp on the T1. Puzzling. Maybe it only works well with thin blades or softer steel.
#3
Tormek T-1 and T-2 / Re: Tormek T1 - am I expecting...
Last post by tgbto - Today at 08:36:11 AMThe belt grinder will always come in handy when you will want to regrind the bolsters of the german knives (I assume they do have a bolster guard like many Wusthofs/Zwillings/...). Bolsters are a PITA, whatever the sharpening system, if we want to keep a sharp knife for generations.
The T1 should do a good job of keeping those sharp as long as it is used for short, frequent sessions. I'd say a couple passes on each side and a thorough honing on a slightly wet composite wheel.
The T1 should do a good job of keeping those sharp as long as it is used for short, frequent sessions. I'd say a couple passes on each side and a thorough honing on a slightly wet composite wheel.
#4
General Tormek Questions / Stone will not turn if you put...
Last post by Cliff - Today at 04:18:25 AMI have an older Super Grind 2000, I haven't used in quite a while I started sharpening a chisel and as long as I did not put any pressure on the stone it worked ok however I seam to remember that I could the last time I used it I removed the honing wheel and drive wheel turned the motor on and used an emery cloth to clean the motor shaft then replaced the drive wheel and used the emery cloth to clean the surface however this did not really help much? wondering if someone has more suggestions? other then replacing the drive wheel.
Another question, when I turn the switch on the stone does not move I need to push it then it gains speed and runs ok.
Another question, is when I turn the switch on I can turn the stone in either direction and it will keep turning the stone. Is the motor meant to run in either direction?
Thanks
Cliff
Carlisle Ontario
Canada
Another question, when I turn the switch on the stone does not move I need to push it then it gains speed and runs ok.
Another question, is when I turn the switch on I can turn the stone in either direction and it will keep turning the stone. Is the motor meant to run in either direction?
Thanks
Cliff
Carlisle Ontario
Canada
#5
Tormek T-1 and T-2 / Re: Tormek T1 - am I expecting...
Last post by AJB Temple - Yesterday at 07:47:26 PMThank you. This is pretty much the conclusion I had arrived at. The yanigiba's are very fine (and expensive) and I will stick to the Naniwas or J naturals for them. The various other fine J knives likewise. They are sharp anyway.
My team mainly prefer our German double bevels which don't "steer" and that is why I bought the T1 really as they dull quickly and are tedious to sharpen.
I also have an Edge Pro belt device with a lot of grits (workshop not kitchen), but it lacks speed control and so can blue a tip in an instant, Mainly used for chisels and plane blades.
I will stick with the T1 for a while and work through the GEU's etc and see how they do. Otherwise it will be moved on. T8 is much too messy for a commercial kitchen environment even though we are small.
My team mainly prefer our German double bevels which don't "steer" and that is why I bought the T1 really as they dull quickly and are tedious to sharpen.
I also have an Edge Pro belt device with a lot of grits (workshop not kitchen), but it lacks speed control and so can blue a tip in an instant, Mainly used for chisels and plane blades.
I will stick with the T1 for a while and work through the GEU's etc and see how they do. Otherwise it will be moved on. T8 is much too messy for a commercial kitchen environment even though we are small.
#6
Knife Sharpening / Re: Knife restoration - W.Moun...
Last post by kwakster - Yesterday at 06:47:44 PMA few pics i took for my own archive:
#7
Knife Sharpening / Re: Knife restoration - W.Moun...
Last post by kwakster - Yesterday at 06:46:50 PMJust finished with a bit of TLC and hand regrinding the blade to it's original full convex zero edge shape again.
Based on this i suspect it's also crucible steel (much more wear resistant than comparable German blades), and i wouldn't be surprised if the steel has a certain amount of tungsten carbides in it, or something similar.
It definitely wants to be sharp. (like reverse chest hair whittling sharp with an 800 grit SiC finish)
Based on this i suspect it's also crucible steel (much more wear resistant than comparable German blades), and i wouldn't be surprised if the steel has a certain amount of tungsten carbides in it, or something similar.
It definitely wants to be sharp. (like reverse chest hair whittling sharp with an 800 grit SiC finish)
#8
Knife Sharpening / Re: Knife restoration - W.Moun...
Last post by kwakster - Yesterday at 06:46:19 PMOn Bladeforums member Jack Black had this to say:
"The knife is one of the Sheffield 'Town Pattern's, made by hundreds of firms, and still made in Sheffield today.
It is one of the patterns described in Sheffield as a 'Whittle-Tang Bowie'. Tens of thousands were sold to Boy Scouts, and so they were sometimes referred to as 'Scout Knives', with at least one early maker (Maleham & Yeoman) etching the blade 'Scouts Woodcraft Knife'.
W.Mount also made Girl Guide Knives, a small folder with a Sheepsfoot blade and Marlin Spike, of which I have an example, but they seem to have been an obscure company."
"The knife is one of the Sheffield 'Town Pattern's, made by hundreds of firms, and still made in Sheffield today.
It is one of the patterns described in Sheffield as a 'Whittle-Tang Bowie'. Tens of thousands were sold to Boy Scouts, and so they were sometimes referred to as 'Scout Knives', with at least one early maker (Maleham & Yeoman) etching the blade 'Scouts Woodcraft Knife'.
W.Mount also made Girl Guide Knives, a small folder with a Sheepsfoot blade and Marlin Spike, of which I have an example, but they seem to have been an obscure company."
#9
Knife Sharpening / Knife restoration - W.Mount & ...
Last post by kwakster - Yesterday at 06:44:18 PMAnyone here familiar with Sheffield maker W.Mount & Son ?
There doesn't seem to be much info about them on the internet, or i'm looking in the wrong places.
My educated guess would be that the W.Mount & Son is from about the same time frame as my Wade & Butcher Boone model (1920's - 1930's), and was made with boy scouts /or hunters in mind.
The knife itself is definitely a quality piece, with especially the handle construction being strikingly similar to my Wade & Butcher model.
There doesn't seem to be much info about them on the internet, or i'm looking in the wrong places.
My educated guess would be that the W.Mount & Son is from about the same time frame as my Wade & Butcher Boone model (1920's - 1930's), and was made with boy scouts /or hunters in mind.
The knife itself is definitely a quality piece, with especially the handle construction being strikingly similar to my Wade & Butcher model.
#10
Drill Bit Sharpening / Re: Getting the secondary beve...
Last post by RickKrung - Yesterday at 04:24:06 PMQuote from: Baldeagle on Yesterday at 04:49:34 AMThanks Ken, I'll have another session with that video, it appears that the cutting edge MUST be lined up, parallel to the horizontal line .... can you tell me what the other line is there for ?
I was about to describe how I rotate the drills counterclockwise when they need a lot of grinding, so that the flutes "end up" lined up with the parallel lines. But before doing so, I thought to check the DBS-22 manual. Lo and behold... That is exactly what the slanted lines are for. First mentioned on page 7 where it talks about lining the flutes up with the parallel lines, but refers readers to page 13 where it talks about the slanted lines for grinding "broken drill". I would say one does not need to rotate all the way to the slanted lines, depending on just how much more grinding is needed to eliminate chips in the flutes, things that are less than "broken" drills?
This makes me wonder about the wisdom of starting out lining up facets of just dull drills with the parallel lines. Why are we not rotating all drills just a little CCW from parallel so that when done, they are lines up with the parallel lines, as it says in the figure on page 13.
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