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#1
Knife Sharpening / Re: Dc-250 - Df-250 - Sg-250?
Last post by Ken S - Today at 04:06:02 PM
One overlooked solution is to make the final pass or two with your DF-250 with VERY light pressure. This is demonstrated in the online class covering the T2, but can be applied to any Tormek. This is very fast, not involving any wheel changing. It is also very cost efficient, as no extra expense is involved. It gently transfers the initial honing from the leather wheel to the grinding wheel.

Ken
#2
Carl,

I suggest you email your video and question to support (support@tormek.se). Some of us may have encountered your problem once; however, support handles problems regularly. I am not saying that there are lots of problems. I know the head of support. He has worked for Tormek since the early 1980s. He is very experienced and very dedicated. Incidentally, Tormek does not charge for tech support.

Ken
#3
Take a quick look at this video, it should help.

https://www.youtube.com/live/aw4vJSUPXmk?si=FLB_MqNcvVXp00DJ
#4
Knife Sharpening / Dc-250 - Df-250 - Sg-250?
Last post by Swemek - Today at 12:15:08 PM
Hi all,

I have two Tormek diamond wheels, course and fine. I also have SG-250 wheel which has never been graded course, so it still has the 250 mm dimension since I only use it as the final step after the diamond wheels, used as Tormek Japanese water stone, if you will, but with courser grit.

Many times DE-250 (grit 600) is the final step, this give me good enough result.

Wanted to ask you all if you see any reason to have the 1200 grit diamond wheel, as long as my SG-wheel keep it's dimension but also remains true?

To my eyes the result from SG-250 (graded very fine, with a finer grit than the fine git side of the Tormek grading stone) gives a beautiful edge to finalize on my leather wheels.

Is there any practical or theoretical pros with using diamond (or CBN) as the last step of sharpening super steel's like m390, rather than traditional aluminium oxide stone?

I I'm aware that deburring on diamond can give high vanadium steels better edge retention.

Thanks!

#5
New drive wheel arrived and is installed. Everything runs smoothly now. Sometimes I I feel like the sound is slowly creeping back, but I think I am just a bit paranoid at this point. The knob is still wobbling around. I guess it was a dumb idea to use it as an indicator for anything.

Even after spending an extra 110€, I still think I got a good deal on this T7. Also, I have come to get to know the machine better (I love its simplicity btw), and the new drive wheel seems of much higher quality than the old one.
 
#6
Knife Sharpening / Re: Knife angle Setter KS 123,...
Last post by Swemek - Today at 11:31:38 AM
Quote from: Royale on February 07, 2026, 01:49:08 PMI stripped my KS-123 down, cleaned it thoroughly, and just applied a wee bit of PTFE grease on the pivot area. So far after a few months of daily use, it's been pretty smooth.
I did exactly this, with success.
#7
I would also be interested in this
#8
As forum moderator, I have no problem with adding a gardening tools sub forum. I will email the request to the Tormek IT manager. We added scissors several years ago; I don't know of any objections to adding garden tools.

Ken
#9
General Tormek Questions / Re: Possible new section for G...
Last post by IGA - Today at 04:19:20 AM
 8) Hi, I would like to be part of that section.
I have a number of old loppers pruning tools and a vintage TORMEK
Sharpening the lopper has always been a bit of a problem
#10
General Tormek Questions / Sharpening concave paring knif...
Last post by stphnchnr - Yesterday at 10:36:43 PM
Hi everyone,

I have a T-7 with silicon carbide wheel where I use the small knife holder to sharpen my concave shaped paring knife with 20 degree angle. For the life of me, I find I can never get a really nice sharp clean edge and final result, no matter what I do.
Do you think the universal support would help me sharpen this type of knife better?

Steve