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#1
Knife Sharpening / Re: New angle jig KS-123
Last post by tgbto - Today at 08:19:19 AMQuote from: BPalv on Yesterday at 09:11:15 PMI test every knife with a Bess Tester, my results are the same whether I measure or use the KS-123. If you use the same care setting up the KS-123 as you do measuring, I would, with confidence state, you could possibly be more accurate using it.
Whatever the real accuracy of the KS-123, I think it is good enough that you won't be able to tell the results apart by BESS testing. +/- 1dps won't have any significant impact on sharpness. If you follow this train of thought, even the AngleMaster or a plain protractor will get you very sharp knives. Initial sharpness depends more on technique than absolute edge angle measured with a .1 dps precision.
+/- 1 dps will have a significant impact on metal removal though, so the real question is : "is the KS-123 consistent enough that I can get very very close to the angle I used the previous time ?" I can't, but I have stopped using the KS-123 more than very occasionally. On my everyday knives, which I sharpen the most, measuring usually gets me a burr on the first pass, second pass at worst. Most of my time is spent honing the burr away.
As to the KS-123 being *more accurate* than measuring, evidence would further this theory more than confidence.
#2
General Tormek Questions / Re: Sharpening salon scissors ...
Last post by Sir Amwell - Yesterday at 10:01:03 PMYes I agree that in theory it could be done.
However I think it would be difficult.
If you are expert at free handing expensive, fully convexed salon scissors on a flat hone, eg hirato. Then yes try it.
But if you are not then buy some very cheap convexed scissors and practice, practice, practice.
Also be aware that the hirato has an angle controlled jig to mount the scissors in, and unless you are a complete master, free-handing these type of blades is extremely difficult.
Please promise me you won't jump in at the deep end and run the risk of ruining a hairstylist's expensive scissors!
However I think it would be difficult.
If you are expert at free handing expensive, fully convexed salon scissors on a flat hone, eg hirato. Then yes try it.
But if you are not then buy some very cheap convexed scissors and practice, practice, practice.
Also be aware that the hirato has an angle controlled jig to mount the scissors in, and unless you are a complete master, free-handing these type of blades is extremely difficult.
Please promise me you won't jump in at the deep end and run the risk of ruining a hairstylist's expensive scissors!
#3
Knife Sharpening / Re: New angle jig KS-123
Last post by BPalv - Yesterday at 09:11:15 PMWhen I first started using the KS-123 I was in the camp of, not accurate enough.
After using the KS-123 in my lineup more frequently, I am gaining the confidence to even use it on fine blades.
The reason is simple. I test every knife with a Bess Tester, my results are the same whether I measure or use the KS-123. If you use the same care setting up the KS-123 as you do measuring, I would, with confidence state, you could possibly be more accurate using it.
After using the KS-123 in my lineup more frequently, I am gaining the confidence to even use it on fine blades.
The reason is simple. I test every knife with a Bess Tester, my results are the same whether I measure or use the KS-123. If you use the same care setting up the KS-123 as you do measuring, I would, with confidence state, you could possibly be more accurate using it.
#4
Hand Tool Woodworking / Re: having 5 or six chisels to...
Last post by RichColvin - Yesterday at 04:11:40 AMI recommend you take each chisel from start to finish, then begin again on the next chisel. You will experience less frustration with re-attaching the jig to the chisel.
#5
General Tormek Questions / Re: Ultrasonic cleaner to remo...
Last post by Clickngofar - September 09, 2026, 11:46:52 PMQuote from: tgbto on May 04, 2026, 10:31:14 AMA bit more food for thought on this ultrasonic deburring thing :Very interesting indeed.
https://www.blackstone-ney.com/blog/ultrasonics-deburring-fact-or-fantasy/
I wondered why some of my knives scored no BESS changes after cleaning, and this report explains why.
So many variables that are impossible to control.
However, I still use my USC on most of the knives I sharpen and my results still make it worth it.
#6
General Tormek Questions / Sharpening salon scissors on T...
Last post by Clickngofar - September 09, 2026, 11:26:16 PMTeam, I've been thinking about how it might be possible to sharpen salon shears, and scissors using the side of the extra fine diamond wheel on a T8.
Top of the line, flat disc, (eg. Hira-To), machines are hugely expensive and I wondered why you couldn't utilise the side of the diamond wheel to freehand sharpen such high end shears.
I don't see any major difference between the two systems other than the T8 wheels is in a vertical plane and could even be tipped over to the horizontal if necessary.
You would lose the water cooling on the horizontal, but other than that, it's the same principal.
Honing will need some thought to see what works best, but is this idea worth pursuing, or am I completely up a creek without a paddle.
Top of the line, flat disc, (eg. Hira-To), machines are hugely expensive and I wondered why you couldn't utilise the side of the diamond wheel to freehand sharpen such high end shears.
I don't see any major difference between the two systems other than the T8 wheels is in a vertical plane and could even be tipped over to the horizontal if necessary.
You would lose the water cooling on the horizontal, but other than that, it's the same principal.
Honing will need some thought to see what works best, but is this idea worth pursuing, or am I completely up a creek without a paddle.
#7
Hand Tool Woodworking / Re: having 5 or six chisels to...
Last post by Dan - September 09, 2026, 02:25:08 PMQuote from: kingkey on September 09, 2026, 10:06:42 AMthanks for your reply DannyOK, I see what you mean.
i was referring to the rough cut as being as soon as the tool to true the stone had been used as i noticed it was cutting a lot more than when the 220 grit was in operation ,
great info re grading the stone ,as to using diamond cards to dress the wheel i already have trend diamond cards in 300,600 and 1000, should i be using them ?
looking forward to this sharpening journey
Steve
I also use 80 diamond plate to roughen the stone and 400 to smooth it. Seems to work pretty well
Danny
#8
Hand Tool Woodworking / Re: having 5 or six chisels to...
Last post by tgbto - September 09, 2026, 11:24:14 AMYou can use the diamond stones, they are easier to use than the stone grader. Is you have the straight edge jig, backthese cards with anything thick and you're set.
300 will not give your the roughest grit though, I use 80 and the SG is quite aggressive afterwards.
300 will not give your the roughest grit though, I use 80 and the SG is quite aggressive afterwards.
#9
Hand Tool Woodworking / Re: having 5 or six chisels to...
Last post by kingkey - September 09, 2026, 10:06:42 AMthanks for your reply Danny
i was referring to the rough cut as being as soon as the tool to true the stone had been used as i noticed it was cutting a lot more than when the 220 grit was in operation ,
great info re grading the stone ,as to using diamond cards to dress the wheel i already have trend diamond cards in 300,600 and 1000, should i be using them ?
looking forward to this sharpening journey
Steve
i was referring to the rough cut as being as soon as the tool to true the stone had been used as i noticed it was cutting a lot more than when the 220 grit was in operation ,
great info re grading the stone ,as to using diamond cards to dress the wheel i already have trend diamond cards in 300,600 and 1000, should i be using them ?
looking forward to this sharpening journey
Steve
#10
Hand Tool Woodworking / Re: having 5 or six chisels to...
Last post by Dan - September 08, 2026, 04:31:44 PMHello,
Not sure what you mean by the 'rough stone setting'. The rough stone setting is the 220 grade. In general, you need to keep the chisel in the jig for both initial rough grind (220 grade) and then the same exact angle once you make the wheel smoother (1000 grade)
This allows for a finer finish in exactly the same angle. You should see no difference in the grind except finer lines.
All it takes is 10 - 20 seconds using the stone grader to make the wheel less abrasive. (Or more abrasive the other way round)
Once the grind is finished, you can remove the chisel from the jig and do the honing on the honing wheel, normally freehand.
In reality the grading of the stone is not so precise. It is at its most abrasive just after truing it with the diamond truing tool. After that it generally settles down to around 600.
You can make it more rough or smooth with the grading tool but it is not really 220 or 1000!
The basic idea is to use the rough cut for more metal removal when you need to and then finish it with the finer grind.
I, and others, tend to use a diamond plate of different grades to roughen or to smooth the stone.
See this Tormek video for a good example of chisel sharpening
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yd6nnexsPjY
When I sharpen my knives, I like to hone at a precise angle using a different honing wheel setup.
That's a different story...
Danny
P.S. There are many useful videos on the Tormek channel for all sorts of sharpening.
P.P.S. The chisels will be less sharp pretty quickly especially if used on harder woods or very resinous softwoods.
When it loses its edge, it is possible to just touch up the cutting edge on a stone afterwards. The hollow grind of the Tormek helps this a lot.
P.P.P.S. Welcome to the sharpening rabbit hole
Not sure what you mean by the 'rough stone setting'. The rough stone setting is the 220 grade. In general, you need to keep the chisel in the jig for both initial rough grind (220 grade) and then the same exact angle once you make the wheel smoother (1000 grade)
This allows for a finer finish in exactly the same angle. You should see no difference in the grind except finer lines.
All it takes is 10 - 20 seconds using the stone grader to make the wheel less abrasive. (Or more abrasive the other way round)
Once the grind is finished, you can remove the chisel from the jig and do the honing on the honing wheel, normally freehand.
In reality the grading of the stone is not so precise. It is at its most abrasive just after truing it with the diamond truing tool. After that it generally settles down to around 600.
You can make it more rough or smooth with the grading tool but it is not really 220 or 1000!
The basic idea is to use the rough cut for more metal removal when you need to and then finish it with the finer grind.
I, and others, tend to use a diamond plate of different grades to roughen or to smooth the stone.
See this Tormek video for a good example of chisel sharpening
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yd6nnexsPjY
When I sharpen my knives, I like to hone at a precise angle using a different honing wheel setup.
That's a different story...
Danny
P.S. There are many useful videos on the Tormek channel for all sorts of sharpening.
P.P.S. The chisels will be less sharp pretty quickly especially if used on harder woods or very resinous softwoods.
When it loses its edge, it is possible to just touch up the cutting edge on a stone afterwards. The hollow grind of the Tormek helps this a lot.
P.P.P.S. Welcome to the sharpening rabbit hole