News:

Welcome to the Tormek Community. If you previously registered for the discussion board but had not made any posts, your membership may have been purged. Secure your membership in this community by joining in the conversations.
www.tormek.com

Main Menu

Recent posts

#1
Knife Sharpening / Re: JigSteps - Android App
Last post by andrevde - Yesterday at 11:57:07 PM
Quote from: cbwx34 on September 29, 2026, 10:27:48 PMLooks good!

I always suggest providing/including the "USB to Wheel" result, as an alternative to setting the height. Some users prefer this method of setting the USB height.

I am curious... it looks like you're setting the height by measuring to the top of the adjusting nut (if so, good idea), but I noted in the one example on your website the result matches measuring to the top of the machine.  (Maybe the idea changed after you posted the image, or I misunderstood?)

Hopefully, you're not including the "blade thickness" to calculate the result....  ::)

But overall, looking good!

p.s.  The "setup calculator" may be a little "off putting" for some... you may consider providing some of the common (or ones you've already calculated) horizontal and vertical measurements, so everyone doesn't have to do them.

Sharp eyes cbwx34, and I appreciate your comments! I've replaced wrong images on the website (you are correct; I modified the code after I created the images, and yes measurement is from the top of the adjustment nut). Blade thickness is relevant to Chord angles, single bevels and using the SE-77 jig...so no this doesn't factor for those images.

It's relatively straightforward adding a second calculated measurement (to the wheel). I support the user having freedom to choose - which is why I provide both apex and chord angle settings (most want apex only but some might want chord for certain scenarios). So - I will add this to the app.

My reasoning for measuring from the adjusting nut: I wanted a consistent method and found that when I used my FVB for edge-trailing grinds, I could barely measure past the adjustment nut to the support clamp. I also didn't really like the longer measurement from the USB to the machine as it was awkward/ungainly getting the caliper properly vertical. Measuring to the adjustment nut is shorter, easier and more accurate (caliper is beside the support), with the downside of additional one-off measurements.

The app is preloaded with default values for the Tormek T-8, based off my own machine. But I've found there are slight differences in values used elsewhere. I advocate for the user to verify their own equipment and use the defaults as a guide. If accuracy really is important, then this one-off exercise (do right, do once) shouldn't be a barrier.
#2
Scissors Sharpening / Re: Deburring?
Last post by Ken S - Yesterday at 10:37:00 PM
Years ago, on bessex, the edge on up (BESS) forum, we had a similar discussion. We referred to the last burr as toothiness. While some applications favor a toothy edge, many work best with a smooth edge.

Ken
#3
Knife Sharpening / Re: JigSteps - Android App
Last post by Ken S - Yesterday at 10:29:51 PM
The debate about measuring to wheel or to frame remains puzzling to me. Based upon Dutchman's original tables, I have always measured to the wheel. This simple measurement works the same with either my T8 or T4. I hold Wootz (Vadim) in high regard and he used the frame measurement. I suspect either will work. Consistency is the key.

It would be nice if the user could choose either option.

Ken
#4
Knife Sharpening / Re: JigSteps - Android App
Last post by RickKrung - Yesterday at 07:02:25 AM
Quote from: cbwx34 on September 29, 2026, 10:27:48 PMLooks good!

I always suggest providing/including the "USB to Wheel" result, as an alternative to setting the height. Some users prefer this method of setting the USB height.
...snip...

Like me.  I won't even look at it if it doesn't include USB to wheel.  That is the only measurement I use. Period. 

 :)
#5
Scissors Sharpening / Re: Deburring?
Last post by Sir Amwell - Yesterday at 12:37:17 AM
Ok.I apologise in advance if the following causes a storm.
Of course scissors need deburring!
Let me also state right here that in my opinion, apart from maybe paper, or kitchen or big fabric scissors, the tormek is not a good machine for sharpening high end grooming or hairdressing scissors.
But even if it was they would still need deburring.
In fact a great deal of time is spent properly deburring high end fully convexed grooming/hairdressing scissors. It is essential.
Now some people recommend the forced open, shut tight method for cutting off the burr on these type of scissors but its too hit and miss.
Most professional sharpeners of these tools deburr on flat bench stones in a very controlled way so as to preserve blade geometry, especially on a fully convexed pair.
 Note the repeated use of 'convexed'. Not easy to do on a Tormek which produces concave edges, however slight that concavity is.
I have commented on a similar subject before.
The Tormek is a superb machine for sharpening many types of tools.
But please PLEASE don't be tempted to use it for sharpening expensive fully convexed scissors. Its a world of pain.
But my point is, even if you did use a T8 to sharpen these implements they would still need careful deburring.
Just my twopennorth worth....
#6
Knife Sharpening / Re: JigSteps - Android App
Last post by cbwx34 - September 29, 2026, 10:27:48 PM
Looks good!

I always suggest providing/including the "USB to Wheel" result, as an alternative to setting the height. Some users prefer this method of setting the USB height.

I am curious... it looks like you're setting the height by measuring to the top of the adjusting nut (if so, good idea), but I noted in the one example on your website the result matches measuring to the top of the machine.  (Maybe the idea changed after you posted the image, or I misunderstood?)

Hopefully, you're not including the "blade thickness" to calculate the result....  ::)

But overall, looking good!

p.s.  The "setup calculator" may be a little "off putting" for some... you may consider providing some of the common (or ones you've already calculated) horizontal and vertical measurements, so everyone doesn't have to do them.
#7
Knife Sharpening / JigSteps - Android App
Last post by andrevde - September 29, 2026, 02:13:44 AM

Hi all

I wanted to open with a bit of history, since I know Vadim (and his apps/book/knowledge) meant a great deal to people here. I was one of his customers myself — I'd bought and relied on his grinding-angle calculators for Tormek, and his FVB that I bought. After he passed in 2022 and the tools stopped being maintained, one of the apps stopped working properly, and I ended up building my own replacement just to keep going. That grew into something considerably bigger than I'd originally set out to make (I had a few eureka moments along the way!), and it's become an Android app I'm calling JigSteps.

Where Vadim's tools handled one grind step at a time, and one app per equipment type/position, JigSteps walks through a full multi-stage sharpening sequence (steps) as the user chooses — coarse through to polishing/honing — recalculating exact support heights and angles at every stage, on any valid machine/equipment setup. The blade/jig is kept unchanged throughout. It's based on the Tormek T-8 and is compatible with any wheel-type grinder, plus flat/belt setups (I even built-in the Tormek SE-77 jig). It relies on the user creating a library of all equipment they use for jig sharpening, so the geometry lends itself to any similar machine. Once this is done, it is very easy to create the steps intended for the item being sharpened. Lots of clear diagrams are included to explain what is measured, and where the calculated output is measured (it is not the same as Vadim and others have used - I think it's better!).

The app is heading into closed testing on Google Play before public launch (this is a fairly recent requirement as  I understand it), and I'm looking for around 15 people to try it out on the and give honest feedback. It's a real install through the actual Play Store (nothing sideloaded or emailed), and the only ask is a 14-day window of actually using it (Google Play monitors this).

For those that are selected for beta testing, as a thank you for helping me get this into production you'll get a free copy of the full release version.

The app will have free support for life (other than major upgrades), is a pay-once app that you actually own (no subscription), and has no link to any server other than the Play store. I'm finalising price but I'm likely to be around the $14.95 (USD) mark.

The app has a companion website with a full guide and equipment setup info, at https://jigsteps.app — that's also where anyone interested in testing can get in touch directly.

If this proves useful, I'll look at creating an IOS version for the Apple fans.


Thanks for your interest!
Andre
#8
Scissors Sharpening / Re: Deburring?
Last post by Herman Trivilino - September 29, 2026, 01:52:53 AM
Quote from: RickKrung on July 28, 2026, 03:56:34 AMWhere does the procedure/process of deburring by "opening" the blades against each other - after having held them apart so they do not touch when closing them - fit in the scheme of scissors deburring.

As I understand it, scissors are not to be deburred. After sharpening open and close them a few times. To me, this is just breaking in a newly-sharpened pair of scissors. It's all I ever do.
#9
General Tormek Questions / Re: New SVD-186R jig
Last post by RickKrung - September 28, 2026, 03:59:34 PM
Quote from: GKC on September 28, 2026, 05:35:57 AMI wanted a second SVD-186R and remembered that there had been a discussion of this when the R was released with its locking knob. I had a 186 on hand so for the conversion to a 186R I implemented Rick's idea of a collar around the jig to reinforce the tapped hole.

As can be seen in the pictures, the body of the 186 is about 2.5mm thick and the collar doubled that. There is now plenty of thread to hold the knob. (If I were Rick I would have machined a steel collar, but the 20mm ID brass bushing was so cheap ($6) and easy that I couldn't resist; I am confident that it will do the job.)

The brass bushing was a decent interference fit over the jig: I warmed the bushing, froze the jig, slid on the bushing and it tightened up nicely. If the fit hadn't been so nice, I would have put a dab of JB Weld in to keep things orderly.

Though it looks a bit bulkier in the middle, I am finding the homemade 186R to be functionally the same as my "real" 186R, so this was a successful modification for me.

Gord

Nicely done.  I think brass is a good choice here.  If I were doing it, rather than ordinary, rustable steel, I would use stainless, but I love working in brass as well and it will serve quite well and I would be happy with it this way. 

Rick
#10
General Tormek Questions / Re: New SVD-186R jig
Last post by GKC - September 28, 2026, 05:35:57 AM
I wanted a second SVD-186R and remembered that there had been a discussion of this when the R was released with its locking knob. I had a 186 on hand so for the conversion to a 186R I implemented Rick's idea of a collar around the jig to reinforce the tapped hole.

As can be seen in the pictures, the body of the 186 is about 2.5mm thick and the collar doubled that. There is now plenty of thread to hold the knob. (If I were Rick I would have machined a steel collar, but the 20mm ID brass bushing was so cheap ($6) and easy that I couldn't resist; I am confident that it will do the job.)

The brass bushing was a decent interference fit over the jig: I warmed the bushing, froze the jig, slid on the bushing and it tightened up nicely. If the fit hadn't been so nice, I would have put a dab of JB Weld in to keep things orderly.

Though it looks a bit bulkier in the middle, I am finding the homemade 186R to be functionally the same as my "real" 186R, so this was a successful modification for me.

Gord