Recent posts

#1

General Tormek Questions / Re: 50Hz vs 60Hz Tormek motors

Last post by Ken S - Today at 01:50:50 AM

Points well taken. I won't post any more youtube links. I will delete this topic tomorrow.

Ken

#2

General Tormek Questions / Re: 50Hz vs 60Hz Tormek motors

Last post by Sir Amwell - Today at 12:45:49 AM

No offence to you Ken, you do an amazing job for this forum.
But let's face it this slop is pretty easy to identify.
Why not all agree to keep it off this excellent resource?
Surely this forum is all about real people doing real things in the real world?
I used to watch several informative YouTube channels presented by real humans, but as soon as AI changed their formats ( including masculising their cover photos) I have binned them. Just cant watch.
I know this isn't Tormek centred but just making a general point........

#3

General Tormek Questions / Re: 50Hz vs 60Hz Tormek motors

Last post by Ken S - Yesterday at 08:04:28 PM

I posted this topic to provide some background information on a related topic. I did not mean to offend anyone. I know essentially nothing about ai. I do know something about electricity, enough to believe the information presented in the video was reasonably accurate. If the information is not useful or is incorrect, please state that in a reply and T will delete the topic.

Ken

#4

General Tormek Questions / Re: LA-100 leather honing whee...

Last post by tgbto - Yesterday at 08:58:14 AM

I agree with Rich. In my experience, the Tormek leather wheel + PA70 compound is the best efficiency / edge retention compromise.

I'm not sure what a high speed honing device would achieve that the leather wheel cannot, plus the risk of overheating or messing up the edge seems not worth the hassle.

#5

General Tormek Questions / Re: LA-100 leather honing whee...

Last post by RichColvin - Yesterday at 03:55:14 AM

If you want to do high speed honing, use paper wheels.  But, I've found that the leather wheel at Tormek speed works better for me. 

#6

General Tormek Questions / Re: 50Hz vs 60Hz Tormek motors

Last post by MikeK - October 12, 2026, 04:32:14 PM

Unfortunately, YouTube doesn't offer a way to block videos with AI-generated content.  As soon as I see the AI logo under the video title, I don't bother watching and click on the "Don't Recommend Channel" option.

#7

General Tormek Questions / Re: 50Hz vs 60Hz Tormek motors

Last post by tgbto - October 12, 2026, 11:53:06 AM

These AI-generated videos, in addition to being IMO auguries of our impending doom, are excruciating to watch.

The monotonous tone is incredibly boring, the images make my eye bleed and ... what happens when you plug in a 110V/60Hz charger in 220V/50Hz outlet is not primarily driven by the frequency mismatch.

#8

General Tormek Questions / 50Hz vs 60Hz Tormek motors

Last post by Ken S - October 12, 2026, 12:16:05 AM

We occasionally receive questions about 50 Hz and 60Hz motors. This video should answer all of our questions in this area.

Ken

https://youtu.be/7voH3cm2h1M?is=81WoHESvKKLtgNsk

#9

General Tormek Questions / Re: sharpening japanese carvin...

Last post by RickKrung - October 11, 2026, 06:28:44 PM

hello, I want to sharpen this carving knife:
https://www.dictum.com/en/marking-knife-kogatana-standard-double-bevel-blade-width-18-mm/710201
I read the instructions if I am not wrong the recommend using the SVD.186 R and MB-100 with one diamond stone. To me this is impossible to do. Too expensive. Isn't there another cheaper way to do it? I tried to do one free hand. I am not crazy about it, although there was an improvement compared to my previous method with waterstones.
Thanks Enrico

I believe I have dealt with a similar challenge recently, with sharpening very small, thin blades for woodworking marking knives. My blades are about 1mm (0.029") thick, 10mm wide (0.375") and 50mm (2") long.  Bevels are straight, primary at 10º and secondary 20-25º.  The secondary bevel is quite narrow. 
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I used the standard Tormek knife sharpening jigs, both SVM and KJ, but because the blades are so thin, narrow and short, had to hold them off to the side of the jig in order to get them in close enough to the grinding wheels, particularly to get the 10º primary bevel.  Keeping them level and square was also a challenge.  I had to be careful about getting the blade aligned square in the jig and the jig collar snug against the USB, all while carefully and slowly bringing the blade up to the grinding wheel. 
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It took some practice to get right and I'm not showing what some looked like, just those after I got it figured out better (except on of the six blades shown does show a bit of non-uniformity in the primary bevel).  I comment on this partly because it is just what had to be done to get the bevels right, but also because the secondary bevel on the OP's example Kogatana knife is not particularly even. 
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In both the SVM and KJ jigs, I had to use shims under the blades to be able to clamp them, because they are so thin.

The primary difficulty with this setup was keeping the blade/jig from rotating, both radially and axially.  This is what took practice and it ultimately came down to very controlled movements.  Also, I found it worked best when I used magnification (OptiVisor @ 5X) to get in close to view the placement while grinding. 

#10

General Tormek Questions / Re: sharpening japanese carvin...

Last post by Enricopg - October 11, 2026, 09:08:06 AM

Thanks John, I was thinking the same but wasnt sure! 👍