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Recent posts
#1
Knife Sharpening / Re: DF-250 / SJ-250 combo
Last post by Ken S - Yesterday at 11:31:53 PMWelcome to the forum, Espen.
Please give us more information in order to give you more informed replies. My first recommendation for a hobbiest would be the SG wheel. With the stone grader, you will have 220 and 1000 grit, all the grit range you will need.
Let us know if you have special needs.
Ken
Please give us more information in order to give you more informed replies. My first recommendation for a hobbiest would be the SG wheel. With the stone grader, you will have 220 and 1000 grit, all the grit range you will need.
Let us know if you have special needs.
Ken
#2
Knife Sharpening / DF-250 / SJ-250 combo
Last post by EspenT - Yesterday at 10:41:32 PMHi,
Would this combo of wheels be suitable for a hobbyist?
Or is the gap from 600 to 4000 too big?
Thank you.
Would this combo of wheels be suitable for a hobbyist?
Or is the gap from 600 to 4000 too big?
Thank you.
#3
General Tormek Questions / Re: upcoming online class
Last post by John_B - Yesterday at 06:51:25 PMIt was a very informative video. I think the black wheel may be an underutilized economical alternative for harder steels. These videos do increase my lusting for more wheels.
#4
General Tormek Questions / Re: upcoming online class
Last post by Ken S - Yesterday at 06:38:48 PMRich,
Your post strikes a note with me. I have a favorite Tinker with a blade worn prematurely from overzealous sharpening with my SG. Unless one of my SAK blades is damaged, I will start with my SJ.
Thanks for posting.
Ken
Your post strikes a note with me. I have a favorite Tinker with a blade worn prematurely from overzealous sharpening with my SG. Unless one of my SAK blades is damaged, I will start with my SJ.
Thanks for posting.
Ken
#5
General Tormek Questions / Re: upcoming online class
Last post by RichColvin - Yesterday at 05:47:03 PMI watched the class in re-run, and it is really good. One thing which I believe Wolfgang missed about the Japanese water stone is its value for re-sharpening knives with thin blades.
I carried a Swiss Army Tinker pocket knife for years, and I too ate up the blades too fast when resharpening them.
Now, when I resharpen the Swiss Army knife, I find that the SJ water stone is quite sufficient to achieve the needed work, and it greatly minimizes the metal removal, extending the life of the knife.
I carried a Swiss Army Tinker pocket knife for years, and I too ate up the blades too fast when resharpening them.
Now, when I resharpen the Swiss Army knife, I find that the SJ water stone is quite sufficient to achieve the needed work, and it greatly minimizes the metal removal, extending the life of the knife.
#6
General Tormek Questions / Re: Hello
Last post by kwakster - Yesterday at 12:36:49 PMCleavers can be sharpened very well using a small knife rest.
Problem is that at this time you would have to make one yourself, as Tormek still doesn't offer such an item.
Edit: for thicker bladed cleaver a convex edge would be a better option, but you can't make these correctly with a Tormek.
In general i do these by hand on wet & dry paper on glass and/or benchstones.
Problem is that at this time you would have to make one yourself, as Tormek still doesn't offer such an item.
Edit: for thicker bladed cleaver a convex edge would be a better option, but you can't make these correctly with a Tormek.
In general i do these by hand on wet & dry paper on glass and/or benchstones.
#7
General Tormek Questions / Re: Hello
Last post by Ken S - Yesterday at 01:03:39 AMWelcome to the forum, Kev.
Several years ago, the handbook said that knives could only be honed freehand with the T4. Looking critically at my T4, I realized that the problem was caused by the the locking screws of the knife jig, sleeves(the horizontal tubes which hold the support bars and a high spot on the knife jig bumping into the support bar. The easiest way to prevent this is with the Tormek MB-102. In addition to being a Frontal Vertical Base, the MB-102 also allows accurate flat grinding with diamond wheels using the side.
If the knife is too long for the standard US-103 support, the longer US-430 support bar will correct this. For my tests, I was able to both grind and hone (using the knife jig and leather honing wheel) with my T4 and a ten inch chef knife.
I am reluctant to push people into purchasing more jigs and accessories. In your case, since you already have the diamond wheels, I believe the MB-102 will do double duty. Watch the online class covering it. If any of your knives are too long for your support bar, the US-430 will fill the bill and also be a useful second support bar.
Keep us posted.
Ken
Several years ago, the handbook said that knives could only be honed freehand with the T4. Looking critically at my T4, I realized that the problem was caused by the the locking screws of the knife jig, sleeves(the horizontal tubes which hold the support bars and a high spot on the knife jig bumping into the support bar. The easiest way to prevent this is with the Tormek MB-102. In addition to being a Frontal Vertical Base, the MB-102 also allows accurate flat grinding with diamond wheels using the side.
If the knife is too long for the standard US-103 support, the longer US-430 support bar will correct this. For my tests, I was able to both grind and hone (using the knife jig and leather honing wheel) with my T4 and a ten inch chef knife.
I am reluctant to push people into purchasing more jigs and accessories. In your case, since you already have the diamond wheels, I believe the MB-102 will do double duty. Watch the online class covering it. If any of your knives are too long for your support bar, the US-430 will fill the bill and also be a useful second support bar.
Keep us posted.
Ken
#8
General Tormek Questions / Hello
Last post by Kev56 - April 17, 2025, 09:53:35 PMHi my first post here. I've got the T4 with diamond stones and the 906 tool kit. loving the experience.
My question is, how do i sharpen a clever, the blade is about 8cm just over 3 inches. Is there another piece of kit i need?
Thanks.
My question is, how do i sharpen a clever, the blade is about 8cm just over 3 inches. Is there another piece of kit i need?
Thanks.
#9
Knife Sharpening / Re: diamond cross section shap...
Last post by kwakster - April 17, 2025, 09:15:23 AMOriginal first model French paratrooper dagger from the 1950's and/or 1960's.
On the steel guard it reads "Poignard de Combat" and "Special Beret Rouge", which translates into something like: "combat poniard for red berets"
Most likely the main reason this Red Beret dagger looks like it was never used or even carried is the fact that it had only rudimentary edge bevels that weren't even apexed, and it also only had a narrow rounded section where originally a sharp point is supposed to be.
My guess is that it must have slipped the final quality control, or the worker just didn't care enough.
I used my Tormek T7 wet sharpener and a home made small knife rest to create what looks like narrow factory bevels nicely coming together in a symmetric and needlesharp point, making it fully functional again while at the same time preserving that untouched appearance so it looks like nothing was done to the dagger.
Taping the (disassembled) blade is also essential to avoid any faint surface scratching
Specs:
Overall length: 11.89 inches (30.2 cm)
Blade length: 7.08 inches (18.0 cm)
Max blade thickness: 4.82 mm
Steel type: drop-forged carbon steel
Handle materials: steel guard with blackened brass handle (can be disassembled & weighted)
Sheath: black leather
Weight without sheath: 261.7 grams
Weight with sheath: 300 grams
On the steel guard it reads "Poignard de Combat" and "Special Beret Rouge", which translates into something like: "combat poniard for red berets"
Most likely the main reason this Red Beret dagger looks like it was never used or even carried is the fact that it had only rudimentary edge bevels that weren't even apexed, and it also only had a narrow rounded section where originally a sharp point is supposed to be.
My guess is that it must have slipped the final quality control, or the worker just didn't care enough.
I used my Tormek T7 wet sharpener and a home made small knife rest to create what looks like narrow factory bevels nicely coming together in a symmetric and needlesharp point, making it fully functional again while at the same time preserving that untouched appearance so it looks like nothing was done to the dagger.
Taping the (disassembled) blade is also essential to avoid any faint surface scratching
Specs:
Overall length: 11.89 inches (30.2 cm)
Blade length: 7.08 inches (18.0 cm)
Max blade thickness: 4.82 mm
Steel type: drop-forged carbon steel
Handle materials: steel guard with blackened brass handle (can be disassembled & weighted)
Sheath: black leather
Weight without sheath: 261.7 grams
Weight with sheath: 300 grams
#10
Knife Sharpening / Re: Repairing a Botched Sharpe...
Last post by Nico - April 17, 2025, 04:44:57 AMIt's funny because I've sharpened dozens and dozens of blades on my T-8 before and this has never happened. Something strange about the Santoku blade profile. I will definitely have to pay more attention next time.