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#1
Tormek T-1 and T-2 / Tormek T1 - am I expecting too...
Last post by AJB Temple - Today at 11:28:29 AMNew member here. Adrian. I'm a chef in our small fine dining restaurant. Lifelong knife enthusiast: Japanese single bevel sourced direct from maker's workshops in Japan (all Carbon), several more western J knives - double bevel. mostly VG10 variants (eg Misono etc) and my much older German knives, mostly Gustav Emil Ern but a few others as well. Sharpening hitherto has been Naniwa stones up to about 20,000 grit, splash and go, impregnated leather strops.
Bought T1 which arrived yesterday. Disappointing. I started off with a Japanese SS knife that was pretty blunt and I wanted to profile to about 12 degrees each side. I must have spent an hour on this and despite using marker and lens, I can't seem to get a burr. It seems very close but a burr does not form very well, and then if I use the honing wheel the knife is dulled. It comes back a bit if I hand strop.
T1 is MUCH slower than I expected. Is this normal?
Second question. I'm right handed and my best knives, especially several Yanagibas etc, are single bevel carbon - no bevel (maybe a micr bevel) on the left face. The T1 requires me to go in from the back to rin these through and grinds a tad unevenly. It is easy to catch the horn on the wheel. Any brilliant ideas?
I only really got the T1 to deal with the German knives and maybe a bit of angle change here and there. The premium knives rarely see anything other than an 8000 Naniwa and the strop and they are razor sharp.
It's a bit awkward with butchery boning knives as well - hard to get to the very end closest to the handle without the grind looking a bit rough.
Final question - is there a method for doing Chinese cleavers.
Many thanks. Adrian
Bought T1 which arrived yesterday. Disappointing. I started off with a Japanese SS knife that was pretty blunt and I wanted to profile to about 12 degrees each side. I must have spent an hour on this and despite using marker and lens, I can't seem to get a burr. It seems very close but a burr does not form very well, and then if I use the honing wheel the knife is dulled. It comes back a bit if I hand strop.
T1 is MUCH slower than I expected. Is this normal?
Second question. I'm right handed and my best knives, especially several Yanagibas etc, are single bevel carbon - no bevel (maybe a micr bevel) on the left face. The T1 requires me to go in from the back to rin these through and grinds a tad unevenly. It is easy to catch the horn on the wheel. Any brilliant ideas?
I only really got the T1 to deal with the German knives and maybe a bit of angle change here and there. The premium knives rarely see anything other than an 8000 Naniwa and the strop and they are razor sharp.
It's a bit awkward with butchery boning knives as well - hard to get to the very end closest to the handle without the grind looking a bit rough.
Final question - is there a method for doing Chinese cleavers.
Many thanks. Adrian
#2
Tormek T-1 and T-2 / T1: Damage to the composite/ho...
Last post by Hbietenb - Today at 09:40:40 AMI recently purchased a second-hand Tormek T1. Upon receiving it, I noticed that the composite wheel has small imperfections that look like cuts. It is possible that the cutting edge of a knife was applied in the wrong direction here. There is also a chip visible on the left-hand edge. I can feel these imperfections when using the machine.
Is the composite wheel still usable, or should it be replacrd?
Many thanks in advance,
Hannes
#3
Drill Bit Sharpening / Re: Getting the secondary beve...
Last post by Baldeagle - Today at 04:49:34 AMQuote from: Ken S on Yesterday at 07:57:04 AMWelcome to the forum, Baldeagle. I have long considered the DBS-22 Tormek's most advanced jig. I believe it was also Torgny's last major project. A few suggestions:Thanks Ken, I'll have another session with that video, it appears that the cutting edge MUST be lined up, parallel to the horizontal line .... can you tell me what the other line is there for ?
I watch Alan Holtham's excellent fifteen minute video on the DBS-22 as a refresher before every time I use my DBS-22. Here is a link:
https://youtu.be/fSUa1iFUzkM?is=9l-uT6P72XUh8y_b
Start with bits in the 8 to 12mm diameter range. This range is large enough to see easily without having to use the magnifier and small enough to not require extensive grinding time. It will require some practice to become proficient. Do not become discouraged. If I can do it, you can certainly do it.
Keep us posted.
Ken
#4
Drill Bit Sharpening / Re: Getting the secondary beve...
Last post by RichColvin - Yesterday at 01:59:49 PMTony,
At the Sharpening Handbook, I've cataloged 4 really good videos for using the DBS-22 to sharpen twist drills: https://sharpeninghandbook.info/GT-DrillBits-Twist.html.
Rich
At the Sharpening Handbook, I've cataloged 4 really good videos for using the DBS-22 to sharpen twist drills: https://sharpeninghandbook.info/GT-DrillBits-Twist.html.
Rich
#5
Drill Bit Sharpening / Re: Getting the secondary beve...
Last post by Ken S - Yesterday at 07:57:04 AMWelcome to the forum, Baldeagle. I have long considered the DBS-22 Tormek's most advanced jig. I believe it was also Torgny's last major project. A few suggestions:
I watch Alan Holtham's excellent fifteen minute video on the DBS-22 as a refresher before every time I use my DBS-22. Here is a link:
https://youtu.be/fSUa1iFUzkM?is=9l-uT6P72XUh8y_b
Start with bits in the 8 to 12mm diameter range. This range is large enough to see easily without having to use the magnifier and small enough to not require extensive grinding time. It will require some practice to become proficient. Do not become discouraged. If I can do it, you can certainly do it.
Keep us posted.
Ken
I watch Alan Holtham's excellent fifteen minute video on the DBS-22 as a refresher before every time I use my DBS-22. Here is a link:
https://youtu.be/fSUa1iFUzkM?is=9l-uT6P72XUh8y_b
Start with bits in the 8 to 12mm diameter range. This range is large enough to see easily without having to use the magnifier and small enough to not require extensive grinding time. It will require some practice to become proficient. Do not become discouraged. If I can do it, you can certainly do it.
Keep us posted.
Ken
#6
General Tormek Questions / Re: Is there a way to prevent ...
Last post by Ken S - Yesterday at 07:32:54 AMToday's mail brought a package from Rich Colvin. Rich is one of only four forum members I have had the pleasure of meeting personally. (We both live in the Columbus, Ohio area. We are also both Tormek Ambassadors.) He is skilled in woodturning, machinist work and 3D printing and runs his Sharpening Handbook.
Rich and I have traded packages over the years. Today's package included several 3D printed spacers with the modified indenture. He also included three clever grinding wheel holders in both 200 and 250mm sizes.
Time will tell if there is a problem with wear with the spacers. In my case, in recent years my shop time has been very limited. I do not foresee much of a problem. If so, I may pursue alternative print media.
I have long recommended getting to know a local machinist and/or someone with a 3D printer. I have had several SVM jigs and my DBS-22 jig modified by machinists. These modifications were not expensive.
Rich's Sharpening Handbook includes several useful accessories for the Tormek. I suggest checking it out.
Ken
Rich and I have traded packages over the years. Today's package included several 3D printed spacers with the modified indenture. He also included three clever grinding wheel holders in both 200 and 250mm sizes.
Time will tell if there is a problem with wear with the spacers. In my case, in recent years my shop time has been very limited. I do not foresee much of a problem. If so, I may pursue alternative print media.
I have long recommended getting to know a local machinist and/or someone with a 3D printer. I have had several SVM jigs and my DBS-22 jig modified by machinists. These modifications were not expensive.
Rich's Sharpening Handbook includes several useful accessories for the Tormek. I suggest checking it out.
Ken
#7
General Tormek Questions / MOVED: Getting the secondary b...
Last post by Ken S - Yesterday at 06:51:57 AM #8
Drill Bit Sharpening / Getting the secondary bevel co...
Last post by Baldeagle - Yesterday at 12:14:50 AMHello from NZ,
I've owned a T8 for a couple of years, I've just bought 3 new CBN wheels and I have a selection of jigs, I really like what the T8 is capable of doing. I've been reading all sorts on this forum but my first time with my own question. I consistently have trouble sharpening a drill bit so that the trailing edge is lower than the cutting edge, I have 'played around' with the way I set the cutting edge with the lines on the drill bit holder, I use the magnifier, I've played around with the settings abit and I'm no longer sure which lines I should be using, I seem to get a better result by lining up on the angled lines. As for doing a secondary bevel (on a bit that I've fluked a correct grind) the secondary grind always ends up being out of parallel with the primary bevel .... any clues please and thank you in advance.
I've owned a T8 for a couple of years, I've just bought 3 new CBN wheels and I have a selection of jigs, I really like what the T8 is capable of doing. I've been reading all sorts on this forum but my first time with my own question. I consistently have trouble sharpening a drill bit so that the trailing edge is lower than the cutting edge, I have 'played around' with the way I set the cutting edge with the lines on the drill bit holder, I use the magnifier, I've played around with the settings abit and I'm no longer sure which lines I should be using, I seem to get a better result by lining up on the angled lines. As for doing a secondary bevel (on a bit that I've fluked a correct grind) the secondary grind always ends up being out of parallel with the primary bevel .... any clues please and thank you in advance.
#9
Knife Sharpening / Re: New angle jig KS-123
Last post by tgbto - September 01, 2026, 11:16:43 AMI would try sharpening one knife using a distance-based angle setting method, then checking it with the laser goniometer, so you can actually incriminate the KS-123 or put the blame on your goniometer.
Also, have you tried lubricating the surface where the black plastic scale contacts the metal body of the KS-123 ? This helps reduce hysteresis.
Also, have you tried lubricating the surface where the black plastic scale contacts the metal body of the KS-123 ? This helps reduce hysteresis.
#10
General Tormek Questions / Re: Is there a way to prevent ...
Last post by RickKrung - August 31, 2026, 04:52:40 PMQuote from: tgbto on August 31, 2026, 02:00:54 PM.snip...
Quick question : Aren't your concerned with the plastic washer wearing down with time ?
Quote from: RichColvin on August 31, 2026, 03:08:07 PMWhen I looked at the stainless steel washer on the machine, it did not show significant wear. So that is good.
...snip..
Of course, you could take your current one to a machinist friend and get it modified.
Stainless is a lot tougher than plastic. I see "wear" indicated by the shiny ring that abuts the rubber bushing in the case. It isn't wearing down the stainless, just polishing it, but that could change for plastic, especially if not kept greased. But as Rich says, easy to print another.
Taking a washer to a machine shop sounds nice, but it would be costly enough I think one should re-evaluate the whole situation. Cutting a shallow concavity in that washer is not as easy as it is to say. Easy if CNC is an option, but the time to set it up could be prohibitive for a one-off.
This seems like a solution looking for a problem. Just put your finger on the washer as you slide the wheels off.