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Recent posts
#1
Wood Turning / Need a Nose job
Last post by FIGO - Today at 08:03:46 PMHello!
I have squared off my bowl gouge nose. I am using a t8 with a 186r
hole A
protrusion 65
jig setting 3.
Attached shows my gouge on the right.
I'm trying to give it a fingernail grind like the one on the left...
Appreciate any advice to fix it in advance..
I have squared off my bowl gouge nose. I am using a t8 with a 186r
hole A
protrusion 65
jig setting 3.
Attached shows my gouge on the right.
I'm trying to give it a fingernail grind like the one on the left...
Appreciate any advice to fix it in advance..
#2
Knife Sharpening / Re: CATRA Lab Results: Knife G...
Last post by BeSharp - Today at 05:53:06 PMResults Oriented - Not Equipment Nor Protocol Specific
The report shows (with the caveat below) good Cutting Edge Retention ("CER") is not equipment dependent - good CER values was achieved with three different pieces of equipment. Also, KnifeGrinder's protocols are not the only way to achieve good CER. That's why on page 25, under Conclusions, I stated, "Experiment"!
The caveat is that guided sharpening (knife clamped + guide bar) achieved much higher CER values than those that did not (sharpeners PB, WK, OA, and KH). In KGA Variation #1 (page 14), half a degree angle made a noticeable difference to CER values.
I posted somewhere else last week that I helped a commercial fisherman get his knives from around 265 BESS to around 95 BESS by deburring at .5 degree higher than the 15º angle.
Assuming a 2"/50.8mm tall knife blade (from knife edge to the spine), 15º means the spine is .518" / 13.15mm above the cutting board. 15.5º means the spine is .534" / 13.58 mm above the cutting board.
Can a human accurately and repeatedly shift from 15º to 15.5º, even with years of training one's muscle memory? I don't know. I know that I can't. After all, the difference above the cutting board is only .016" / .43mm, or 1/64".
With the fisherman's skinny Frost fillet knives (only .625" / 16mm high), I would argue the height difference between 15º and 15.5º is humanly imperceptible.
Using knife clamps and guide bars, such as on a Tormek T3, T4, T7 or T8, takes longer. But it's safer and easier to learn. Plus, better CER values means you can justify charging more. In the end, what market do you want to be? The lower-end market, or the premium sharpening (term coined by Paul at Alexandria Knife Sharpening - go check out his YouTube Channel) market?
Next Week: What is the K-Shaped Economy?
The report shows (with the caveat below) good Cutting Edge Retention ("CER") is not equipment dependent - good CER values was achieved with three different pieces of equipment. Also, KnifeGrinder's protocols are not the only way to achieve good CER. That's why on page 25, under Conclusions, I stated, "Experiment"!
The caveat is that guided sharpening (knife clamped + guide bar) achieved much higher CER values than those that did not (sharpeners PB, WK, OA, and KH). In KGA Variation #1 (page 14), half a degree angle made a noticeable difference to CER values.
I posted somewhere else last week that I helped a commercial fisherman get his knives from around 265 BESS to around 95 BESS by deburring at .5 degree higher than the 15º angle.
Assuming a 2"/50.8mm tall knife blade (from knife edge to the spine), 15º means the spine is .518" / 13.15mm above the cutting board. 15.5º means the spine is .534" / 13.58 mm above the cutting board.
Can a human accurately and repeatedly shift from 15º to 15.5º, even with years of training one's muscle memory? I don't know. I know that I can't. After all, the difference above the cutting board is only .016" / .43mm, or 1/64".
With the fisherman's skinny Frost fillet knives (only .625" / 16mm high), I would argue the height difference between 15º and 15.5º is humanly imperceptible.
Using knife clamps and guide bars, such as on a Tormek T3, T4, T7 or T8, takes longer. But it's safer and easier to learn. Plus, better CER values means you can justify charging more. In the end, what market do you want to be? The lower-end market, or the premium sharpening (term coined by Paul at Alexandria Knife Sharpening - go check out his YouTube Channel) market?
Next Week: What is the K-Shaped Economy?
#3
General Tormek Questions / Re: Uneven grit in SG-250
Last post by Thy Will Be Done - Today at 01:24:54 AMThe cutter is likely skipping over the smooth side as I'd expect one side of the cutter is slightly more worn and not digging in. I had this happen in the past. The grading stone is not aggressive enough to remove material fast enough to get rid of the deep/coarse surface side but if you used it long enough it would even things out likely.
#4
General Tormek Questions / Uneven grit in SG-250
Last post by fll-freak - Today at 01:18:37 AMI have a T8 with an SG-250 waterstone. I have been using it for a while and just recently went to true the wheel. I noticed as I moved the carbide cutter from the inboard side to the outboard side that the cutting sound changed significantly. I have a flat stone, but now when I grind a chisel, the grinding sound is very different on each side. On the outboard edge, it sounds much coarser. I have tried the grading stone with no luck. Any ideas on what is going on?
#5
General Tormek Questions / Re: White Fluffy Mold On SG-25...
Last post by Thy Will Be Done - Yesterday at 10:11:40 PMI called support and left a message with no reply, no idea why. I'm pretty sure it's mold as it sort of goes away after use then comes back after several days sitting damp. Not leaving it in the trough either, just staying damp for a good while on it's own.
#6
Hand Tool Woodworking / Re: Jig for sharpening router ...
Last post by RichColvin - Yesterday at 04:03:55 PMAlan, I added links to these jigs on the router plane blade page of the Sharpening Handbook.
#7
General Tormek Questions / Re: White Fluffy Mold On SG-25...
Last post by Herman Trivilino - Yesterday at 03:53:15 PMQuote from: Thy Will Be Done on January 29, 2026, 10:39:30 PMI seem to have some mold growing in and on the wheel,
Do you empty the water trough after each sharpening session? That's a good practice.
Ken's advice about also removing the wheel is even better.
I hang mine on a long construction screw on the wall right next to me sharpening station.
#8
General Tormek Questions / Re: White Fluffy Mold On SG-25...
Last post by Ken S - January 30, 2026, 10:43:56 PMI agree with checking with support.
The other thought I have is to check your water. I would pick up a gallon or two of distilled water from your grocery store. I would start with scrubbing your wheel with a scrubbing brush. When you are through sharpening, store your wheel dry.
Please keep us posted.
Ken
The other thought I have is to check your water. I would pick up a gallon or two of distilled water from your grocery store. I would start with scrubbing your wheel with a scrubbing brush. When you are through sharpening, store your wheel dry.
Please keep us posted.
Ken
#9
Knife Sharpening / Re: Knife restoration- Wade & ...
Last post by Rossy66 - January 30, 2026, 07:54:46 PMAmazing job 
#10
Knife Sharpening / Re: Anyone had experience with...
Last post by Rossy66 - January 30, 2026, 07:53:19 PMThank's, I may order one.