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#1
Knife Sharpening / Re: Paper Wheels
Last post by Rossy66 - Today at 02:45:40 AMThanks for the reply. The spyderco looks amazing.
#2
Knife Sharpening / Re: Use of KS-123 with adjusta...
Last post by cbwx34 - Yesterday at 11:10:49 PMFrom your pdf...
Why are you resting the stop against the clamp and not the USB (like you do when using the KJ jig?)
Also, your reference 2 link doesn't work in the U.S. (Need to change the nl to us)...
https://apps.apple.com/us/app/basic-programming-language/id1540244170
QuoteSVM-jigs is unfortunately not possible without further ado.
The KS-123 is clamped onto the Universal Support Bar (USB) while setting
the sharpening angle. When using the adjustable knife jigs, the adjustable
stop will rest against that clamp and is therefore at a distance Ko from the
USB.
Why are you resting the stop against the clamp and not the USB (like you do when using the KJ jig?)
Also, your reference 2 link doesn't work in the U.S. (Need to change the nl to us)...
https://apps.apple.com/us/app/basic-programming-language/id1540244170
#3
Knife Sharpening / Re: Paper Wheels
Last post by kwakster - Yesterday at 09:40:34 PMA Strider SMF with S110V blade from a Dutch forum member.
According to my Tormek angle gauge the old edge measured ~ 40 degrees inclusive from the heel to half an inch before the tip where it changed into 45 degrees inclusive.
The owner uses this knife mostly to cut various kinds of green wood & twigs in horticulture, and had already tried his hand at reprofiling the edge himself with a DMT Diafold.
Together we came to the conclusion that the edge could do with a full reprofiling, as well as with a finer edge finish to better suit his specific purposes.
BTW: the owner also contacted Duane Dwyer by mail, among other things to ask him about the hardness of this S110V blade, and according to Duane it measures 61 HRC.
This was the knife before sharpening:
After reprofiling & sharpening.
The new edge angle came out at ~ 32 degrees inclusive along the entire edge, and it can treetop armhair and slice single ply toilet paper.
Probably due to having the flu at the moment my hands didn't do exactly what i wanted them to do, and as a result i didn't manage to get both bevels completely symmetrical.
Grit progression: a Paper Wheel with 220 grit SiC for reprofiling, a second Paper Wheel with 15 micron diamond compound for refining, and a third Paper Wheel with 0.25 micron diamond compound for removing the tiny burr.
According to my Tormek angle gauge the old edge measured ~ 40 degrees inclusive from the heel to half an inch before the tip where it changed into 45 degrees inclusive.
The owner uses this knife mostly to cut various kinds of green wood & twigs in horticulture, and had already tried his hand at reprofiling the edge himself with a DMT Diafold.
Together we came to the conclusion that the edge could do with a full reprofiling, as well as with a finer edge finish to better suit his specific purposes.
BTW: the owner also contacted Duane Dwyer by mail, among other things to ask him about the hardness of this S110V blade, and according to Duane it measures 61 HRC.
This was the knife before sharpening:
After reprofiling & sharpening.
The new edge angle came out at ~ 32 degrees inclusive along the entire edge, and it can treetop armhair and slice single ply toilet paper.
Probably due to having the flu at the moment my hands didn't do exactly what i wanted them to do, and as a result i didn't manage to get both bevels completely symmetrical.
Grit progression: a Paper Wheel with 220 grit SiC for reprofiling, a second Paper Wheel with 15 micron diamond compound for refining, and a third Paper Wheel with 0.25 micron diamond compound for removing the tiny burr.
#4
Knife Sharpening / Re: Paper Wheels
Last post by kwakster - Yesterday at 09:36:21 PMAnother earlier one, this time a user Spyderco Military in S90V steel from a Dutch forum member who requested a little more bling.
First i used a standard Paper Wheel with silicon carbide grit, followed by a second Paper Wheel with 15 micron diamond paste as well as a third Paper Wheel with 6 micron diamond paste, after which the tiny burr was removed on the Tormek leather wheel.
It's not a true mirror edge, as with the magnifying glass in my Victorinox SwissChamp i can still see fine scratching, but with the naked eye it's close.
Sharpness is hairwhittling (both to and from the root) and it can also slice single layer toiletpaper with ease.
First i used a standard Paper Wheel with silicon carbide grit, followed by a second Paper Wheel with 15 micron diamond paste as well as a third Paper Wheel with 6 micron diamond paste, after which the tiny burr was removed on the Tormek leather wheel.
It's not a true mirror edge, as with the magnifying glass in my Victorinox SwissChamp i can still see fine scratching, but with the naked eye it's close.
Sharpness is hairwhittling (both to and from the root) and it can also slice single layer toiletpaper with ease.
#5
Knife Sharpening / Re: Paper Wheels
Last post by kwakster - Yesterday at 01:31:38 PMAlso an older one: a DPX Hest folder with D2 steel blade from a Dutch forum member.
This one was reprofiled to an ever so slight convex edge of between 25 and 30 degrees inclusive on a standard Paper Wheel with silicon carbide grit, then refined on a second Paper Wheel with 15 micron diamond paste, and finally i removed the very small burr on the Tormek leather wheel.
Close-up of the 15 micron finish:
This one was reprofiled to an ever so slight convex edge of between 25 and 30 degrees inclusive on a standard Paper Wheel with silicon carbide grit, then refined on a second Paper Wheel with 15 micron diamond paste, and finally i removed the very small burr on the Tormek leather wheel.
Close-up of the 15 micron finish:
#6
Knife Sharpening / Re: Paper Wheels
Last post by kwakster - Yesterday at 01:28:11 PMSpyderco Paramilitary 2 in CTS-20CP steel.
The previous owner tried to sharpen it on an Edge-Pro, which sadly resulted in quite uneven bevels, several chips along the edge, and a piece of unremoved burr.
I removed the apex of the old edge by cutting a few times straight into a silicon carbide stone, and then resharpened it to an almost exact 30 degrees inclusive on a Paper Wheel with 15 micron diamond compound, then removed the tiny burr with a second Paper Wheel with 1 micron diamond compound.
Although i couldn't get both bevels exactly even in width, the new edge is now treetopping sharp without chips or burrs.
I call this a bling & bite finish, as to the casual observer it may look like a mirror finish (diamond compounds cut very clean), but when inspected up close with a loupe you can see a fine scratch pattern perpendicular to the edge that still provides for enough bite for most EDC tasks.
The previous owner tried to sharpen it on an Edge-Pro, which sadly resulted in quite uneven bevels, several chips along the edge, and a piece of unremoved burr.
I removed the apex of the old edge by cutting a few times straight into a silicon carbide stone, and then resharpened it to an almost exact 30 degrees inclusive on a Paper Wheel with 15 micron diamond compound, then removed the tiny burr with a second Paper Wheel with 1 micron diamond compound.
Although i couldn't get both bevels exactly even in width, the new edge is now treetopping sharp without chips or burrs.
I call this a bling & bite finish, as to the casual observer it may look like a mirror finish (diamond compounds cut very clean), but when inspected up close with a loupe you can see a fine scratch pattern perpendicular to the edge that still provides for enough bite for most EDC tasks.
#7
Knife Sharpening / Use of KS-123 with adjustable ...
Last post by Dutchman - Yesterday at 12:16:28 PMThe angle-setter KS-123 is not directly suitable for use with the adjustable knife jigs SVM-45 and SVM-140. However, with a relatively small correction, this is possible. In the attached report, I have described the problem and derived two possible solutions.
One of the solutions requires some calculations, so I expect again several spreadsheets to result.
One of the solutions requires some calculations, so I expect again several spreadsheets to result.
#8
Knife Sharpening / Re: Paper Wheels
Last post by kwakster - Yesterday at 12:11:13 PMIf the sharpening itself was done right, just deburring generally takes only a couple of passes on a slotted wheel.
(Semi-) polishing an edge will take longer: with standard steel types it can be mere minutes, with steels that have a high vanadium carbide content it can take hours.
Plus for this category you need diamond compounds. as the aluminium oxide isn't hard enough to cut & shape these carbides.
For most standard stainless knives i prefer the original slotted Wheel used with the block of white aluminium oxide, and for higher end knives (especially the ones with lots of (vanadium) carbides in the apex) i prefer a Wheel with fine diamond compound.
Regarding dust production: when new a standard slotted Wheel used with the block of white aluminium oxide will produce some airborne dust (both from the deburring process itself as well as some cardboard fibers that will come loose from the surface.
This will however diminish over time once the Wheel has been used for a while and becomes a bit blackened.
Then the dust production drops off sharply.
So especially in the beginning i would wear a good dust mask, later you will probably not need one anymore.
When sharpening/deburring with diamond compounds a slight amount of debris (a combination of diamond particles, oil, and steel particles) is slung off the Wheel during the process, gets airborne for only a fraction of a second, and then attaches itself to the wall behind my grinder. (see pictures)
Nowadays i put a piece of cardboard against the wall and exchange that from time to time.
Because no debris remains airborne (it is an ever so slightly "wet" process) i do not need a mask.
I do however always wear a quality pair of safety glasses (this is important)
This is my basement workplace:
(Semi-) polishing an edge will take longer: with standard steel types it can be mere minutes, with steels that have a high vanadium carbide content it can take hours.
Plus for this category you need diamond compounds. as the aluminium oxide isn't hard enough to cut & shape these carbides.
For most standard stainless knives i prefer the original slotted Wheel used with the block of white aluminium oxide, and for higher end knives (especially the ones with lots of (vanadium) carbides in the apex) i prefer a Wheel with fine diamond compound.
Regarding dust production: when new a standard slotted Wheel used with the block of white aluminium oxide will produce some airborne dust (both from the deburring process itself as well as some cardboard fibers that will come loose from the surface.
This will however diminish over time once the Wheel has been used for a while and becomes a bit blackened.
Then the dust production drops off sharply.
So especially in the beginning i would wear a good dust mask, later you will probably not need one anymore.
When sharpening/deburring with diamond compounds a slight amount of debris (a combination of diamond particles, oil, and steel particles) is slung off the Wheel during the process, gets airborne for only a fraction of a second, and then attaches itself to the wall behind my grinder. (see pictures)
Nowadays i put a piece of cardboard against the wall and exchange that from time to time.
Because no debris remains airborne (it is an ever so slightly "wet" process) i do not need a mask.
I do however always wear a quality pair of safety glasses (this is important)
This is my basement workplace:
#9
General Tormek Questions / Re: Radial and lateral play ms...
Last post by rescwood - Yesterday at 10:58:55 AMAs read in the Tormek manual the original composite bushings allow about 0.1–0.2 mm radial play and around 1 mm axial play.
Is it normal that brand new msk-250 kit shows higher value (0.25) ?
Is it normal that brand new msk-250 kit shows higher value (0.25) ?
#10
General Tormek Questions / Re: Sharpening a curved herb k...
Last post by Rossy66 - Yesterday at 01:06:57 AMI received one from a customer and spent nearly 3 hours trying every jig I have, and I have nearly all of them but was unable to sharpen it with the Tormek. I ended up using my Worksharp Ken Onion which sharpened it it in about 6 minutes. I wish these type of mezzaluna had screw in handles, like some of the old ones did.