Recent posts

#1

Knife Sharpening / Re: Where to clamp?

Last post by Rossy66 - Today at 12:40:02 AM

So I was wondering if the small knife jig would help. I attached the knife (it's quite small) and did a quick alignment. It looks good to my very untrained eye and I know if I take my time setting it up, it would look a lot better. Looking at the edge under mu magnifying glass, someone has tried to sharpen it before and it's all over the place so I don't think I could make it any worse.

Suggestions?

#2

Knife Sharpening / Re: Where to clamp?

Last post by Rossy66 - Today at 12:20:07 AM

Thanks, I'll do some more research.

#3

Knife Sharpening / Re: Where to clamp?

Last post by Dan - Yesterday at 11:35:21 PM

search for 'dagger' on the forum or 'double edge'.
It brings up topics like this one
https://forum.tormek.com/index.php/topic,5751.msg42186.html#msg42186

#4

Knife Sharpening / Re: Where to clamp?

Last post by John Hancock Sr - Yesterday at 11:31:47 PM

I would do that one freehand. You have to be very careful. I have years of practice under my belt though, so I am confident of a good outcome.

#5

Knife Sharpening / Where to clamp?

Last post by Rossy66 - Yesterday at 08:50:14 PM

Being new to the T8, I am trying as many different knives as possible with quite good success but I have a friend who asked me if I could sharpen the knife below. I am at a loss on where to clamp it as it has a ridge all the way down the knife and it slopes on both sides (maybe a scandi grind?)

Any suggestions would be welcome.

#6

Knife Sharpening / Re: Honing wheels same diamete...

Last post by RickKrung - Yesterday at 06:16:14 PM

Not my idea, someone else's here on the forum, but I've used it, at least before I made my own FVB, back when the concept first appeared.  I was going to edit my reply to recommend that your next purchase be the MB-120, if nothing else just for its FVB function.  It's a game changer. 

I'm not sure how you'd use the MB-120 for plane blades and chisels on the side, I just do them on the vertical USB.  I have all the diamond wheels and a couple CBN and have never done any work on the sides. 

#7

Knife Sharpening / Re: Is there still a wire burr...

Last post by ABall - Yesterday at 03:21:44 PM

I think less is deffinitely more. I can consistantly hit over 200 on the bess so I have total faith im not squeing the figures. The Enlan is probably my fave knife, I keep it by my side in the lounge for anything that needs cutting open. My wife picked it up and cut some zip ties with it chipping the hell out of it, I know 15 is not a good angle for this knife but thats not whats its for! I ground the chips out on the SG set to coarse then made 2 passes per side on the SJ, I normally polish this one and im about to mirror the entire blade but im happy with the quick sharpen result. Main improvement I think is following OUTDOORS55 recommendation of de burring in the opposite direction, I sharpened heel to tip then de burred tip to heel. I did the ARC on the SG fine then used 1 micron stroppy stuff on the Tormek leather wheel, same principle.

#8

Knife Sharpening / Re: Honing wheels same diamete...

Last post by Rossy66 - Yesterday at 03:10:03 PM

What a great idea, I will look today while I'm out. I did order the MB-102 as I am interested in sharpening on the side and learning to sharpen chisels and planer blades.

#9

Knife Sharpening / Re: Honing wheels same diamete...

Last post by RickKrung - Yesterday at 08:26:03 AM

...snip...
 As you mentioned, the Tormek video does showing stropping with the USB in the vertical position but they do state that the clamp jig may come in contact with the first holding screw, I was wondering if once I set the correct angle (I also bought the KS-123) then could I just remove the screw? the right screw would still be tightened and the fine adjuster ring would stop the USB from moving forward!
...snip...

Rather than remove the knob(screw), I would try replacing it with a set-screw (some people call these "grub screws").  Takes a touch longer to secure, but removes the interference while providing the clearance.  Some do this with the locking screw on the knife jigs, when that knob interferes. 

Most set-screws one can buy in local/chain hardware stores are "cup-tip", which is a conical shaped cavity in the middle, leaving a circular sharp ridge near the outer diameter.  These will "cut" into the shafts and are meant for situations where the set screw is tighten and left tight so it will securely hold the shaft in more permanently.  You do not want that. 

Look at the end of the Tormek locking screws.  They are flat, which is what you want.  Filing the cup points down will help a lot, but flat-tip set screws are available, at least from online stores like McMaster-Carr, the problem there being they often have to be bought in small - medium quantities (10, 25, 50).  It is rare to find flat-tip set screws in local hardware stores, particularly for these, M6x1.0 metric screws in the USA. 

AND, do you will want Stainless Steel.  Plain steel will rust.

Cup-tip
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Flat-tip
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#10

Knife Sharpening / Re: Honing wheels same diamete...

Last post by Rossy66 - December 06, 2025, 09:07:43 PM

Thanks for replying RickKrung, I will post some pictures soon. I am used to stropping on a flat leather strop so the rotating honing wheel is a bit confusing, especially the angle. I am currently watching the Tormek Honing video and it is very informative, as I mentioned in my post, I may invest in the Tormek MB-102 Multi Base but I have already spent over $1800 so I am trying to keep my costs down. As you mentioned, the Tormek video does showing stropping with the USB in the vertical position but they do state that the clamp jig may come in contact with the first holding screw, I was wondering if once I set the correct angle (I also bought the KS-123) then could I just remove the screw? the right screw would still be tightened and the fine adjuster ring would stop the USB from moving forward!

I guess I am just trying to be overly cheap and I should just order the MB-102. I am trying to set up a time efficient process so I can maintain quality for my future customers while keeping my sharpening/honing time to a minimum.