Recent posts

#1

Scissors Sharpening / Re: Deburring?

Last post by Herman Trivilino - Today at 07:19:50 PM

Let me also state right here that in my opinion, apart from maybe paper, or kitchen or big fabric scissors, the tormek is not a good machine for sharpening high end grooming or hairdressing scissors.

I agree.

My comments about deburring refer only to scissors that one would sharpen on a Tormek.

My daughter-in-law is a hair dresser. I wouldn't dare try to sharpen her very expensive scissors. I agree that the Tormek is not the right machine to sharpen those.

Over the years I've had no issues with sharpening our office scissors, kitchen scissors, and sewing scissors; with the Tormek.

If you like, you can whet the flat edge of each blade on a fine sharpening stone, but in my experience it's never been necessary. Others may have a different experience.

#2

Tormek T-1 and T-2 / Re: T1 - problem sharpening to...

Last post by Ken S - Today at 11:27:24 AM

Welcome to the forum, Apex 56.

I reached out to Samuel at Tormek, who did the T1 online class. In his reply, Samuel wrote that he consulted with support who suggested that you send them a short video ([email protected]).

Please keep us posted.

Ken

#3

Tormek T-1 and T-2 / Re: T1 - problem sharpening to...

Last post by tgbto - Today at 09:44:48 AM

It may be that this is the result of the T1 being a constant angle sharpener : as you near the apex, the grinding angle remains constant while the blade geometry usually changes (the most common is : it gets thicker behind the edge). Santokus should be less prone to this issue than standard, upward-curving european chef knives.

Usually, to maintain a constant bevel at the tip, such knives are sharpened at a higher angle near the tip. This way, the bevel width remains constant. Constant angle sharpeners will maintain a constant angle, so you will need to remove more material to get to the apex. Said otherwise, you will have to sharpen the shoulders of the bevel first, before you gradually move down to the apex.

You can confirm that hypothesis with the sharpie : apply it in such a manner that is extends beyond the edge onto the blade, and watch carefully after a full pass : if the ink is removed right where the bevel meets the flat of the blade, you have your answer. And with a constant angle sharpener there is just one way to do it : keep on grinding. Your bevel will widen but there is no alternative.

#4

Tormek T-1 and T-2 / T1 - problem sharpening to the...

Last post by Apex56 - October 03, 2026, 09:20:20 AM

Hi, I've had my T1 for 10 months and get great results on my Wusthof utility and chef knives, and some cheaper santokus. Except the grinding wheel is making limited or no contact with the final one to two centimetres of the bevel to the tip of the knife. I've confirmed this using the marker method. 

I set the angle to 17 degrees on the Wusthofs and 15 for the santokus.

I've watched the Tormek instructional videos on YouTube, as well as those by Ukulele Jay BBQ and Torsten Kluske. I know to gradually lift the handle up as you near the tip, mainly on the Wusthofs, so the bevel stays at the correct angle to the wheel.

Has anyone else had this issue?

Is it possibly the clip-on angle guide being too thick for these knives at my angle settings? So the final section of the bevel to the tip is not contacting the grinding wheel? 

I would be grateful for your thoughts and suggestions.   

#5

General Tormek Questions / Re: Help to identify this old ...

Last post by John Hancock Sr - October 02, 2026, 09:24:02 PM

Our mate Ken posted about this a while ago. See his post here

https://forum.tormek.com/index.php/topic,4570.0.html

#6

General Tormek Questions / Help to identify this old Torm...

Last post by Garyd - October 02, 2026, 08:48:08 PM

 
I came across this old wheel at the back of my cupboard where it has been sitting for 20-odd years. I originally had it fitted to my Tormek, but swapped it for the leather honing wheel and put this one away, where it was more or less forgotten about.

I've recently been looking at the newer composite honing wheels Tormek now produces, and it got me wondering about this old one. It certainly looks like it could be an early version or perhaps a forerunner of the modern composite wheel.

The wheel is approximately 240 mm in diameter and 30 mm thick, and the grey material appears to be some kind of abrasive composite rather than a conventional grinding stone.

Does anyone recognise it or know what Tormek originally called it? I'd be particularly interested to know when it was made, what it was intended for, and whether it was actually an early composite deburring/honing wheel.

It has been stored indoors all these years, but obviously the material has aged. Is there any way of cleaning, conditioning or dressing the wheel to bring it back to a usable standard, or is it likely to have deteriorated too much after all this time?

If anyone remembers these old wheels, has one themselves, or has any old Tormek literature showing it, I'd love to hear from you. Any information or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks GaryD


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#7

Knife Sharpening / Re: JigSteps - Android App

Last post by andrevde - September 30, 2026, 11:57:07 PM

Looks good!

I always suggest providing/including the "USB to Wheel" result, as an alternative to setting the height. Some users prefer this method of setting the USB height.

I am curious... it looks like you're setting the height by measuring to the top of the adjusting nut (if so, good idea), but I noted in the one example on your website the result matches measuring to the top of the machine.  (Maybe the idea changed after you posted the image, or I misunderstood?)

Hopefully, you're not including the "blade thickness" to calculate the result.... 

But overall, looking good!

p.s.  The "setup calculator" may be a little "off putting" for some... you may consider providing some of the common (or ones you've already calculated) horizontal and vertical measurements, so everyone doesn't have to do them.

Sharp eyes, cbwx34, and I appreciate your comments! I've replaced wrong images on the website (you are correct; I modified the code after I created the images, and yes measurement is from the top of the adjustment nut). Blade thickness is relevant to Chord angles, single bevels and using the SE-77 jig...so no this doesn't factor for those images.

It's relatively straightforward adding a second calculated measurement (to the wheel). I support the user having freedom to choose - which is why I provide both apex and chord angle settings (most want apex only but some might want chord for certain scenarios). So - I will add this to the app.

My reasoning for measuring from the adjusting nut: I wanted a consistent method and found that when I used my FVB for edge-trailing grinds, I could barely measure past the adjustment nut to the support clamp. I also didn't really like the longer measurement from the USB to the machine as it was awkward/ungainly getting the caliper properly vertical. Measuring to the adjustment nut is shorter, easier and more accurate (caliper is beside the support), with the downside of additional one-off measurements.

The app is preloaded with default values for the Tormek T-8, based off my own machine. But I've found there are slight differences in values used elsewhere. I advocate for the user to verify their own equipment and use the defaults as a guide. If accuracy really is important, then this one-off exercise (do right, do once) shouldn't be a barrier.

#8

Scissors Sharpening / Re: Deburring?

Last post by Ken S - September 30, 2026, 10:37:00 PM

Years ago, on bessex, the edge on up (BESS) forum, we had a similar discussion. We referred to the last burr as toothiness. While some applications favor a toothy edge, many work best with a smooth edge.

Ken

#9

Knife Sharpening / Re: JigSteps - Android App

Last post by Ken S - September 30, 2026, 10:29:51 PM

The debate about measuring to wheel or to frame remains puzzling to me. Based upon Dutchman's original tables, I have always measured to the wheel. This simple measurement works the same with either my T8 or T4. I hold Wootz (Vadim) in high regard and he used the frame measurement. I suspect either will work. Consistency is the key.

It would be nice if the user could choose either option.

Ken

#10

Knife Sharpening / Re: JigSteps - Android App

Last post by RickKrung - September 30, 2026, 07:02:25 AM

Looks good!

I always suggest providing/including the "USB to Wheel" result, as an alternative to setting the height. Some users prefer this method of setting the USB height.
...snip...

Like me.  I won't even look at it if it doesn't include USB to wheel.  That is the only measurement I use. Period.