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#1
Hand Tool Woodworking / Re: FIN-BORE CUTTERS
Last post by RichColvin - Yesterday at 10:58:01 PMYou should try: The SVD-110 Tool Rest would probably work well. If not, a platform jig (https://sharpeninghandbook.info/Jigs-Platform.html) may be useful.
#2
Hand Tool Woodworking / FIN-BORE CUTTERS
Last post by LAffuteur - Yesterday at 07:43:17 PMHello everyone, has anyone ever sharpened 6-inch or 8-inch ice auger blades on a T8? These are blades that curve inward.If so, does it work well?
Merci thanks
Tommy
https://www.rapala.ca/ca_en/fin-bore-replacement-cutters
Merci thanks
Tommy
https://www.rapala.ca/ca_en/fin-bore-replacement-cutters
#3
Knife Sharpening / Re: Choosing a default angle
Last post by tgbto - June 18, 2026, 02:41:06 PMQuote from: Ken S on June 18, 2026, 12:18:52 PMMy question is, if the KS123 is not satisfactory for high volume such as "weekend warrior" farmers market sharpeners, what is satisfactory?
The way I see it, a sharpener at a farmer's market will not reset the angle but rather reproduce the existing one using the sharpie method. If one wants to reset the angle to, say, manufacturer's specs then the KS-123 will do just fine but my gut feeling is it's not going to be the majority of cases.
When I'm talking about high volume sharpening, I'm thinking more of a "I want to sharpen these 10 knives @15dps". In that case, KJs, vernier calipers and a calculator/Dutchman's tables/a simple arccos+arcctan formula are a bliss.
#4
Knife Sharpening / Re: Choosing a default angle
Last post by kwakster - June 18, 2026, 12:59:51 PMMy own rule of thumb: as thin as possible, but thick enough.
30 degrees inclusive (15 degrees per side) is my upper limit, if a certain steel cannot handle this angle i have no use for it.
My Cold Steel machetes in extremely tough 1055 steel @ 56 HRC have hand convex ground edges of ~30 degrees inclusive, while my Condor machetes in still very tough 1075 steel at a little higher hardness also have hand convex ground edges of between ~25 and ~30 degrees inclusive.
With quality Chef knives my aim is ~20 or ~22.5 degrees inclusive.
Cheapies i first grind just as thin, but then apply a microbevel at ~30 degrees inclusive.
I often try to go thinner until the edge fails, then enlarge the edge angle just enough so no damage occurs anymore.
The above goes for tasks a knife is made for, not for abuse by ham-handed / ignorant people.
When sharpening for others an important aspect is to judge with what sort of person you are dealing with, and also what his or her requirements are.
Dialing these two things in correctly often takes time, but especially the professional knife users often appreciate that you are willing (and able) to work with them to find the right combination of edge angle & edge finish that works best and longest for them.
30 degrees inclusive (15 degrees per side) is my upper limit, if a certain steel cannot handle this angle i have no use for it.
My Cold Steel machetes in extremely tough 1055 steel @ 56 HRC have hand convex ground edges of ~30 degrees inclusive, while my Condor machetes in still very tough 1075 steel at a little higher hardness also have hand convex ground edges of between ~25 and ~30 degrees inclusive.
With quality Chef knives my aim is ~20 or ~22.5 degrees inclusive.
Cheapies i first grind just as thin, but then apply a microbevel at ~30 degrees inclusive.
I often try to go thinner until the edge fails, then enlarge the edge angle just enough so no damage occurs anymore.
The above goes for tasks a knife is made for, not for abuse by ham-handed / ignorant people.
When sharpening for others an important aspect is to judge with what sort of person you are dealing with, and also what his or her requirements are.
Dialing these two things in correctly often takes time, but especially the professional knife users often appreciate that you are willing (and able) to work with them to find the right combination of edge angle & edge finish that works best and longest for them.
#5
Knife Sharpening / Re: Choosing a default angle
Last post by Dutchman - June 18, 2026, 12:29:42 PMQuote from: Ken S on June 18, 2026, 12:18:52 PM...Unfortunately, the Kenjig is valuable when used with SVM jigs that have an adjustable stop. With KJ jigs, its usefulness is very limited.
The kenjig is not limited to just one bevel angle. setting up for more than one angle just requires making extra jigs. This is no big deal, either is construction time or cost. It will lengthen then sharpening time somewhat.
...
#6
Knife Sharpening / Re: Choosing a default angle
Last post by Ken S - June 18, 2026, 12:18:52 PMTgbto,
I agree that the KS123 is very useful for low volume sharpening, which, I suspect, is what most of us really do.
My question is, if the KS123 is not satisfactory for high volume such as "weekend warrior" farmers market sharpeners, what is satisfactory? Remembering designing the kenjig, the two major components of sharpening were the grinding wheel and the knife set up. Any modification to either could not negatively impact the quality of the sharpening.
The kenjig is not limited to just one bevel angle. setting up for more than one angle just requires making extra jigs. This is no big deal, either is construction time or cost. It will lengthen then sharpening time somewhat.
The real time constraint is the variety in the width of knives. Wein the real world, where most customers will bring in knives of varying widths.
Ken
I agree that the KS123 is very useful for low volume sharpening, which, I suspect, is what most of us really do.
My question is, if the KS123 is not satisfactory for high volume such as "weekend warrior" farmers market sharpeners, what is satisfactory? Remembering designing the kenjig, the two major components of sharpening were the grinding wheel and the knife set up. Any modification to either could not negatively impact the quality of the sharpening.
The kenjig is not limited to just one bevel angle. setting up for more than one angle just requires making extra jigs. This is no big deal, either is construction time or cost. It will lengthen then sharpening time somewhat.
The real time constraint is the variety in the width of knives. Wein the real world, where most customers will bring in knives of varying widths.
Ken
#7
General Tormek Questions / Re: Tormek T2
Last post by Ken S - June 18, 2026, 11:56:56 AMGood question, Bobi.
Here is how I solved the riddle with my T2: While the angle setter on theT2 (and T1) may seem problematic, once you figure it out, it is really quite simple. Don't worry about breaking it or putting it together incorrectly. Take it apart and then reassemble it several tomes. It is actually easier than a soldier field stripping his rifle, and you have no drill sergeant looking over your shoulder.
You will master this task in a very few minutes! (If I could do it, you certainly can.)
Ken
Here is how I solved the riddle with my T2: While the angle setter on theT2 (and T1) may seem problematic, once you figure it out, it is really quite simple. Don't worry about breaking it or putting it together incorrectly. Take it apart and then reassemble it several tomes. It is actually easier than a soldier field stripping his rifle, and you have no drill sergeant looking over your shoulder.
You will master this task in a very few minutes! (If I could do it, you certainly can.)
Ken
#8
Knife Sharpening / Re: Choosing a default angle
Last post by John Hancock Sr - June 18, 2026, 05:14:53 AMQuoteJohn, do you measure the sharpening angle you achieve to compare it to the KS-123 setting?
No, but I do not get any hysteresis, which is the discussion I am commenting on. If I wind up a fraction the needle moves, if I wind down a fraction the needle moves.
#9
General Tormek Questions / Tormek T2
Last post by bobl - June 17, 2026, 06:42:47 PMHi Ken, I just recentley got the Tormek 2. When I was taking it out of the box and doing the set up, the angle direction needle fell out of its origional set up. I dont know if I put it back incorrectly ( or even if that is possible) as the 15 degree angle should be the same either way>
I am struggling to get the knives sharp. Is it a problem because I might have re-inserted the angle pointer wrongly?
As you know I have had the T7 for a while with all the jigs, but I feel let down as the T2 is not working for me.
Obviously I can not return it as it has been used. I have the origional fine diamond wheel and the course diamond wheel for the T2.
Please help>
I am struggling to get the knives sharp. Is it a problem because I might have re-inserted the angle pointer wrongly?
As you know I have had the T7 for a while with all the jigs, but I feel let down as the T2 is not working for me.
Obviously I can not return it as it has been used. I have the origional fine diamond wheel and the course diamond wheel for the T2.
Please help>
#10
Knife Sharpening / Re: Choosing a default angle
Last post by tgbto - June 17, 2026, 11:03:49 AMKen, you're right, I'll give it a shot.
TL/DR : 15 dps.
For a more detailed summary : most members recommend something in the 15-20dps range, with a majority grinding closer to 15dps. Setting this angle using the KS-123 is practical for low-volume sharpeners.
TL/DR : 15 dps.
For a more detailed summary : most members recommend something in the 15-20dps range, with a majority grinding closer to 15dps. Setting this angle using the KS-123 is practical for low-volume sharpeners.