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#1

Knife Sharpening / Re: How to achieve less than 1...

Last post by BPalv - Yesterday at 08:00:35 PM

This is almost exactly my process. I think I am at or below the 100 Bess mark based on tests outlined in Vadim's sharpening chart. I normally hone at +1.5°. I will try altering it to a lower number as you suggest after initial passes. Switching to the honing wheel with diamonds impregnated does help. I only bother with this step for my own knives. I normally stop with the PA-70 paste followed by stropping on leather.

Our techniques do seem to be very similar...
When I use the angle setter I just guess at +1.6.  That number can vary,  depending on steel or temper.
I only use diamonds selectively.  High end knives or anything I'm trying to polish.

In honing, I believe the angle and pressure (coupled with your choice of stropping compound) is the key.  Strop too lightly, no progress, too heavy and you grind away the teeth and risk rounding the apex.  That angle comes into play as well.

#2

Knife Sharpening / Re: How to achieve less than 1...

Last post by John_B - Yesterday at 06:59:40 PM

This is almost exactly my process. I think I am at or below the 100 Bess mark based on tests outlined in Vadim's sharpening chart. I normally hone at +1.5°. I will try altering it to a lower number as you suggest after initial passes. Switching to the honing wheel with diamonds impregnated does help. I only bother with this step for my own knives. I normally stop with the PA-70 paste followed by stropping on leather.

#3

Knife Sharpening / Re: How to achieve less than 1...

Last post by BPalv - Yesterday at 03:58:58 PM

It will also show you when you've stropped too much.

Can you elaborate on this ? What are the effects of too much stropping ? Do you mean honing on the honing wheel ? What is your process ?

I have never experience such a thing as too much honing, but maybe it is because I haven't done enough testing...

Sorry for the late reply. 
I have a small shop and do not advertise. I rarely work all day and have time to experiment with different processes and techniques.
When I sharpen on the T-8, I hone on the leather wheel.  Currently I have two.  One is loaded with PA-70, the other with 1um (Tech Diamond Tools) Diamond paste.
I use the Bess every other pass or every pass once the burr fractures or starts to peel away. 
I believe successful burr removal techniques depend on the steel and temper and on my end, angle, pressure, speed of belt, grit size and number of passes.  My First Bess test after the burr starts to fracture will show an edge from 150 to 350, subsequent passes on the same media will result in progressively lower Bess numbers.  I would say, many mainstream steels show improvement till you get around 100.  Often this will be around 4 to 6 passes on the honing wheel with PA-70.  If I continue honing with the same media the numbers will stop improving and will often get worse.  Once that happens (8 to ? Passes) numbers will settle in higher than what I achieve with fewer passes. I believe that is the result of a micro rounded apex.
The best Bess numbers, for me, come shortly after the Burr starts to fall apart, 2 to 5 or 6 passes on the honing wheel.

Once I hit a wall with the PA-70 I switch to diamonds if I'm trying to hit a particular target.  Keeping in mind, the more I strop, the less aggressive the "teeth" will be.  There is a happy medium.

I find the fastest way to remove the burr is honing at +1.6 till the burr starts to fall apart (sometimes after 1 pass) Then lowering the angle to +.2 or.3, or exact angle for a couple finishing passes.

To sum things up, using the Bess as the burr starts to disolve will help preserve the "teeth" and prevent rounding the apex as evidenced by slightly higher Bess numbers on repeated passes.  The rounded apex may be user error by applying too much pressure or the wrong angle... maybe speed, not sure. Negitive and positive burrs require slightly different honing methods.
Bottom line: have a target Bess number in mind.  Don't fight it, stop when you hit it.

As the OP wanted to know how to hit sub 100 numbers, the above process works for me. Quality steel will help ensure your success and keep you from losing your mind. Once you see how long it takes to hit 50 vs. the length of time it stays that sharp, you will probably lose the desire to hit 50. One use will scoot that Bess number over or very close to 100.  It is doable and rewarding once you're there, but not practical for everyday use...IMHO

As mentioned before, Vadim stated there is a correlation between grit size and achievable Bess numbers.  I prefer CBN for consistent grit particles and results.  I do not have a diamond wheel.

#4

Knife Sharpening / Re: Paper Wheels

Last post by kwakster - August 04, 2026, 03:16:10 PM

This thread about a Forever SC-16WB ceramic knife can be also be included here:

https://forum.tormek.com/index.php/topic,5672.msg41579.html#msg41579

#5

Knife Sharpening / Re: Paper Wheels

Last post by kwakster - August 04, 2026, 03:08:54 PM

This thread about two Kohetsu santoku's in HAP40 steel belongs here as well:

https://forum.tormek.com/index.php/topic,5669.msg41557.html#msg41557

#6

Knife Sharpening / Re: How to achieve less than 1...

Last post by kwakster - August 04, 2026, 11:52:53 AM

Probably more AI nonsense,

#7

Knife Sharpening / Re: Best approach for sharpeni...

Last post by tgbto - August 04, 2026, 11:49:05 AM

I simply lock the knife in the jig, set a fixed projection length (like 138 mm from the clamp to the arch), and adjust the support height until the felt wheel perfectly matches the serration angle. Then I just guide the knife smoothly across the wheel.

I have no experience with diamond-loaded felt, so I will defer to those who have. IMO, as long as you slightly grind the edge you're good. However, I'd be careful with guiding "the knife smoothly over the wheel" as you risk rounding out the tips of the serrations. Also, if your grinding is efficient, you *will* get a burr on the backside, that you will have to remove somehow, and honing the frontside will not be sufficient : you will most likely get a foil-like burr.

[EDIT] Have you seen this post about serrated knives ? [/EDIT]

#8

Knife Sharpening / Re: Best approach for sharpeni...

Last post by Peter_Kegels - August 04, 2026, 11:08:59 AM

Hi tgbto,
Thanks for the reality check! You are completely right about the LA-120 and the standard stone.
To solve this, I am planning a different approach using a solid wool felt wheel on the Tormek shaft, loaded with diamond paste.
Because the Tormek runs so slow, it won't burn the steel.To get the perfect angle without freehand guesswork, I will use the standard Tormek knife jig on the universal support.

I simply lock the knife in the jig, set a fixed projection length (like 138 mm from the clamp to the arch), and adjust the support height until the felt wheel perfectly matches the serration angle. Then I just guide the knife smoothly across the wheel.

What are your thoughts on using diamond-loaded felt on the Tormek this way? Do you think it's a good alternative to hand-filing?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T4LItIdH-FI

#9

Knife Sharpening / Re: How to achieve less than 1...

Last post by tgbto - August 04, 2026, 11:04:30 AM

hi

Surface polishing and deburring can be done using 80-120 grit sanders

Yet another commercial post that only adds confusion. Those are becoming more frequent.

#10

Knife Sharpening / Re: Best approach for sharpeni...

Last post by tgbto - August 04, 2026, 10:52:53 AM

You have to grind the serrations before you hone or else you'll just have polished, blunt serrations. The Tormek technique for grinding serrations is freehand on the rounded shoulders of the grinding wheel. Some suggest to grind the backside with the side of the wheel, others to just hone the backside.

As for me, I prefer to clamp the knife in a vise or any holder, work on the serrations with a round ceramic rod, then use a few light passes of a very fine diamond plate for the backside.

The Tormek method is too much trouble IMO for serrated knives, and it is easy to grind way too much, or to inadvertently change the shape of the serrations.