Recent posts

#1

Scissors Sharpening / Re: The way I found to sharpen...

Last post by RickKrung - Today at 07:40:10 PM

...snip...

It could almost work like this. The problem is because the resting plate is so wide, the second scissor kind of touch the plate (closing the scissors).

To fix it, I put a piece of wood on top of the plate. While the scissor is open 90 degree, it can go as far as the stone.

To be able to have a proper angle, I also had to thicken the piece of wood.

...snip...

Very interesting and curious. 

One curiosity is, why do you not use the standard scissors jig platform rather than the Tormek SVD-100 Tool Rest? It has at least two advantages, 1) plastic sliding surface for easier movement and 2) allows getting the support bar closer to the grinding wheel, providing more support close to the wheel. 

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An obvious answer could be that it is wider than the SVD-100 which makes the interference at the wheel worse, which is your primary issue (red ellipse in image). 

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I see two things you could try, one being most likely to solve the problem, the other may help with this, but many of us have found to be a huge help in other ways. 

1) Modify the platform jig, whichever one you use, to remove material to eliminate the interference.  It could be as simple as using a hacksaw to cut away the entire side of the platform.  Or it could be just removing some of the underside that slides on the USB so that the platform can move/slide over further before is stopped by the USB.  I did this a couple way.  Sort of the first option was to cut the scissors jig into two pieces and modified them to provide narrower platforms.  The second is shown in the photo with the several jigs, lower left corner one.  It is also shown, more elegantly with by the cutaway on the underside of the drill bit platfrom, which was done on a milling machine. 

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The other thought, that goes to needing to elevate the work with the wooden block, is to use the Tormek MB-102 and a USB to achieve that elevation, yet allow you to use jigs and platforms directly on the USB bar.  This sort of device was originated by the late Vadim Kraichuk of Knife Grinders of Australia, known as the "Frontal Vertical Base" (FVB), in part to provide clearance of the knife and jig during honing.  The functionality of the FVB has since been incorporated into the modified Multi-Base, MB-102.

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#2

Scissors Sharpening / The way I found to sharpen sci...

Last post by Saintemouleurdelenergie - Today at 04:25:13 AM

Disclaimer : english is my second language, sorry for the mistakes.

So, I had some issues while I was sharpening scissors. Here they are :

1. Some smalls scissors don't fit properly in the jig.
1.1. Some scissors are not square at all, they back have a weird angle, so they are hard to clip straight in the jig.

2. While the inner blade of the scissor is all flat, some, on the back, near the pivot point have a piece of metal that always touch the stone. It's not a big deal, I've see that you can just mark the point with a marker but it's annoying.

That was the problem.
So, in my opinion, it make more sense if we clip the scissor on the other side of the jig. The inner blade resting on the bottom of the jig (the other part of the scissor is on the right then).

You then have a problem, because the other scissor is touching the machine. The wheel also don't spin in the proper way. But if you put the bar horizontally, you then don't have those problems.

It could almost work like this. The problem is because the resting plate is so wide, the second scissor kind of touch the plate (closing the scissors).

To fix it, I put a piece of wood on top of the plate. While the scissor is open 90 degree, it can go as far as the stone.

To be able to have a proper angle, I also had to thicken the piece of wood.

When it's done, it work kind of well. It's similar to the jig that some people create to sharpen knife freehand, except this one work for the scissor.

So, I I don't have picture to explain what I said, but I've made a youtube video about it. It's in french, but you'll get the idea with the images.

Anyway, I was curious to ear your thoughts about it. It's more freehanded, but it work well when you have the proper angle. The results also seems pretty good. Plus, you don't need to unclip/reclip the other scissors. Anyone have done something similar ?

A bunch of people ask me if I sharpen scissors. I feel like it's something really in demand, so I think it worth it to find a proper way to do it properly.

Thank you.

#3

Knife Sharpening / Re: Knife restoration - Marble...

Last post by Brock O Lee - Yesterday at 01:46:29 AM

Impressive!

#4

Knife Sharpening / Re: SG-250 Question

Last post by Ken S - Yesterday at 01:08:47 AM

Here is a link to the Knife Grinders youtube describing how to use the diamond grading plates:

https://youtu.be/141hD1d1zj0?si=KNY8N51jgPNBNrE9

Ken

#5

Knife Sharpening / Re: SG-250 Question

Last post by ABall - December 20, 2025, 09:09:00 AM

This is what I bought yes, and also followed his advive, purchased the 1000 for the SJ250, I think he said actual grading would be higher than the plate numbers but my memory is a little rusty. The only advice I didnt follow was to buy heavy plates, mine where under £1 each on Ali, to be honest I didnt expect them to be any good but they are showing no sign of wear after multiple uses.

#6

Knife Sharpening / Re: SG-250 Question

Last post by Drilon - December 19, 2025, 08:42:41 PM

Working with the diamond plates is great. But I use 80 grit and 400 grit plates as suggested by Vadim Kraichuk (RIP).

There are 65 mm wide and 80 mm wide plates available. I prefer the wider ones.

Regards,
Drilon

#7

General Tormek Questions / Re: Knife Steel Nerds

Last post by tgbto - December 19, 2025, 08:53:32 AM

It looks nice, I'd love to try one. Unfortunately, most seem out of stock at the moment, as if this steel wasn't available for this kind of knife anymore...

#8

Knife Sharpening / Re: SG-250 Question

Last post by tgbto - December 19, 2025, 08:28:22 AM

I personally wouldn't purchase the grader but a set of well-reviewed diamond plates in 160-ish and 1200-ish grits. So you can grade the stone much more efficiently than with the grader, and slides those plates in a SE jig to avoid the pitfalls of the stone grader.

#9

General Tormek Questions / Re: Knife Steel Nerds

Last post by Brock O Lee - December 19, 2025, 07:04:23 AM

Does anyone know of Magnacut chef knives ? Ideally a japanese yo-gyutou or the like... I couldn't find any, only pocket knives...

I see a few options pop up for kitchen knives in Magnacut with a Google search...

Here is a 3-year review I found (not me) of a Magnacut Gyutou, to give you a sense of the characteristics of the steel in this application.

I do not own kitchen knives in Magnacut, but I have a number of pocket knives in it. It keeps an edge well (similar to S30V) and sharpens and deburrs easily at 63-64 HRC (easier than S30V). Impervious to corrosion. I like it.

#10

Knife Sharpening / Re: Consistenty of sharpening

Last post by John Hancock Sr - December 19, 2025, 04:01:43 AM

This is common since the knife may wear unevenly depending on the usage. It also depends on how the knife was sharpened previously. Even pressure throughout is best but with maybe a little less in the centre of the knife. Sharpen until you fell a burr along the whole length of the knife.  Also make sure you watch the Tormek Innovation videos on knife sharpening.