Recent posts

#1

General Tormek Questions / Re: Which Diamond Wheel?

Last post by Ken S - Today at 04:08:01 AM

Welcome to the forum, Steve, and kudos for volunteering at the non profit.

I think the DF-200 wheel is a logical choice for you.I have and like the T4. When Tormek designed the T2, which is specifically designed for commercial kitchens, it was designed for only the DF-200. (The original wheel designation was DWS-200. This was before Tormek introduced the other diamond wheels. The thinking was that the 600 grit was a good balance between fast cutting and a smooth finish. the DWC-200 360 grit was later added at the request of a large Swedish customer.

600 grit  wheel is provided with the T2, T1 and the Black 50 Year edition of the T8. I believe the DF-200 would serve you very well.

Make sure to use light grinding pressure. I recommend using ACC solution with water. A child's medicine graduate, inexpensive and available at a pharmacy or grocery store, plus a plastic peanut butter jar will serve you very well.
j
Please keep us posted.

Ken

PS I suggest you acquire the DF-200 before your SG-200 is worn out. The SG lets you add a small radius on the corners with the stone grader. This is useful in sharpening bird's eye shaped knives.

#2

General Tormek Questions / Re: Which Diamond Wheel?

Last post by Stevesns - Today at 02:18:16 AM

What are you trying to achieve with a diamond wheel that you cannot achieve with the SG grindstone?

Re-read my original post, I note a couple of "issues" I'm trying to solve with a diamond wheel.

#3

General Tormek Questions / Re: Which Diamond Wheel?

Last post by RichColvin - Today at 02:06:23 AM

What are you trying to achieve with a diamond wheel that you cannot achieve with the SG grindstone?

#4

General Tormek Questions / Re: Which Diamond Wheel?

Last post by John Hancock Sr - Today at 01:55:27 AM

what practical impact would it have on sharpness

It will be more durable and will be sharper but for your purpose 1000 should be plenty sharp enough. No reason to not get the DE but it is not *essential*.

#5

General Tormek Questions / Re: Which Diamond Wheel?

Last post by Stevesns - Today at 01:40:12 AM

Thanks for that feedback, I will go with the DF wheel.  What more would you get by also using a DE wheel.  I realize the blade would be "cleaner", perhaps more polished, but what practical impact would it have on sharpness?

Thanks

#6

General Tormek Questions / Re: Which Diamond Wheel?

Last post by John Hancock Sr - Today at 12:20:24 AM

I personally recommend the DF-200 (600G) diamond stone

Agree completely. If you are simply re-sharpening then the DF will get you back to sharp in no time. If you do need to remove damage then use the SG.

#7

General Tormek Questions / Re: Which Diamond Wheel?

Last post by Royale - Today at 12:13:14 AM

For my sharpening setup (T8), I use mainly diamond grindstones. I typically use the DC-250 (360G) for first time customers to reprofile the edge, sharpen with the DF-250 (600G), then refine the edge with my DE-250 (1200G)

That being said, my context is different from yours as I typically sharpen individual customer knives, and I have emphasis on the "wow" factor to increase repeat orders.

If you've already done the heavy lifting of reprofiling all their knives with your T4, and will be the only person sharpening their knives, then I personally recommend the DF-200 (600G) diamond stone as having the most bang for your buck in keeping their knives functionally sharp.

Additionally, I've used the 600G diamond grindstone to reprofile blades, but it does take a much longer time (compared to the 360G) If you don't foresee yourself sharpening individual customer knives like me in the near future, I'd say the DF-200 would suit your needs for your current context.

#8

General Tormek Questions / Which Diamond Wheel?

Last post by Stevesns - Yesterday at 10:41:09 PM

I'm looking for advice on which diamond wheel is best for my situation.  I have a T4 with the standard supplied SG-200 wheel.  I'm doing volunteer work for a non-profit meal preparation organization keeping their kitchen knives sharp.  I sharpening 30 to 40 knives a month.  The SG-200 works great, I can use the lower grit when I have a knife in bad shape but now that most of the knives are being kept in decent shape I mostly just use the ~1000 grit capability of the stone.  I have a couple of "issues" 1) I am noticeably wearing down the stone and I've had to true it a couple of times and 2) the grit seems to drift a bit. For example in the ~300 grit "mode", after a few knives it seems to smooth out a bit to a higher grit and in the ~1000 grit "mode" it tends to roughen up a bit over time.

Those are the reasons I'm thinking about a diamond wheel.  In one of Tormek's videos, I think it was implied the DF-200 performed about the same as the SG-200 when it is in the ~1000 grit "mode".  If so, perhaps that is the wheel I should get.  Where I get sideways, is thinking if 600 is good, isn't 1200 better?

So the question is, is the DF-200 a good option for kitchen knives?  Or should I really be looking at the DE-200 or is that overkill for my application?

Thanks for your thoughts on this.

#9

Knife Sharpening / Re: PA70 polishing paste after...

Last post by Ken S - Yesterday at 05:54:40 PM

We would like to think we live in an exact world of numbers. The real world is either within or outside of tolerance. If our morning coffee is a pleasant temperature to drink, it is within tolerance. If it is too hot to drink or cold, it is outside of tolerance.  with sharpening, if a sharpening step takes too long, it is outside tolerance. If the operation takes too long, an exact grit number doesn't really matter.

We also live in a marketed world. Beginners usually gravitate toward products described as easy to use with minimal steps. Beginners do not have the knowledge to realize that superior sharpening results come from practice and effort.

Grit numbers are just one of several factors. They are also not static. They are variable. Experienced sharpeners just accept this and march on. The online classes teach that using the leather honing wheel with PA-70 after the SJ will remove the tiny burr created by the SJ. Without getting too deep into the weeds, that seems like a logical step to me.

Ken

#10

Knife Sharpening / Re: PA70 polishing paste after...

Last post by BPalv - Yesterday at 03:43:08 PM

After a discussion on the latest video from Tormek (yet to see) I have been rethinking my answer. In it they state that no honing is required after the SJ since it leaves little to no burr. If your last few strokes on the SJ are very light then that will pretty much eliminate the burr. Also, in theory if you lightly redress the wheel before the final light passes, with, say a diamond plate, then the grit will be sharper and thus be fresher this will also reduce the burr.

Also (again I think too much sometimes) Bazz from Findon Sharpening does strop from the SJ but he hand strops on a leather strop with a quality green compound and that does give him a slightly better edge than straight off the SJ.

Even though the Tormek honing compound is only marginally coarser than the SJ it does seem like you are going backwards. I would have thought that very light strokes on the SJ would give you a better result.

IMHO no burr would be acceptable.  I believe it would crush and dull the apex as would any burr.  I would use a fine grain diamond paste to finish.  I use a Tormek honing wheel with 1m diamond emulsion. The lighter the touch the the better results I achieve.