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#1
The Tormek T8 had been introduced 10 years ago in 2016.
#2
Quote from: Herman Trivilino on September 24, 2026, 03:50:47 PMI'm curious, John. Where was the rust? Where the grindstone makes contact with the main shaft? Did the rust penetrate into the grindstone?
The rust was under the wheel. It did not extend into or past the bearing. The wheel was completely stuck to the shaft It was about 15 years old when I bought it and I suspect that it had never been removed. It was in a liquidation auction for a business. The rust did not penetrate into the wheel. There is a collar inside the hole which is part of the wheel, which stopped it. It only rusted where the wheel contacted the shaft. The bearings were also quite worn.

In hindsight I could have used vinegar to dissolve the rust and remove the wheel but it cracked when I tried to remove it.
#3
Quote from: Dan on September 24, 2026, 10:57:22 PMSo, I just removed the wheel, in case of any problems and all is fine
It will take a while to show. Also greasing will help.  I bought a second hand T8 that was about 15 years old. The SG wheel was rusted solid to the shaft. I suspect that it had never been removed.  I think if you remove it regularly you may be fine. I will continue to remove mine after every session thought ;)
#4
General Tormek Questions / Re: Removing the Grinding Whee...
Last post by Dan - September 24, 2026, 10:57:22 PM
Hello all,
A little update on this subject...
After some of your comments, I was a little worried that my choice of leaving the wheel on all the time wasn't maybe so wise.
So, I just removed the wheel, in case of any problems and all is fine.
No rust or any sign of rusty bits.
I did use some thickish lithium grease the last time and it seems to have protected everything OK.
The wheel and the ezylock came off easily.
I just regreased the shaft and put it all back on.

Until next time....
Danny
#5
General Tormek Questions / Re: Removing the Grinding Whee...
Last post by Dan - September 24, 2026, 06:01:30 PM
thanks for all your replies.

Food for thought...
Danny
#6
General Tormek Questions / Re: Is there a way to prevent ...
Last post by Herman Trivilino - September 24, 2026, 03:50:47 PM
Quote from: John Hancock Sr on September 24, 2026, 03:33:31 AMI bought a T8 second hand and it had the "stainless" shaft. The SG had rusted on and could not be removed. Always remove the wheel between sessions.

I'm curious, John. Where was the rust? Where the grindstone makes contact with the main shaft? Did the rust penetrate into the grindstone?
#7
General Tormek Questions / Re: Is there a way to prevent ...
Last post by John Hancock Sr - September 24, 2026, 03:33:31 AM
Quote from: Herman Trivilino on September 21, 2026, 04:16:49 PMThe reason I remove the grindstone between sessions is to prevent rust. The grindstone soaks up water and remains wet for hours if not days.

You can read about my adventures with a rusty main shaft here


Same. I bought a T8 second hand and it had the "stainless" shaft. The SG had rusted on and could not be removed. Alwas remove the wheel between sessions.
#8
General Tormek Questions / Re: Removing the Grinding Whee...
Last post by John Hancock Sr - September 24, 2026, 03:28:55 AM
Two reasons.

The material used in the SG wheel is extremely porous and retains moisture for a long time after use. This moisture can cause the shaft to corrode. Note that stainless steel does not mean corrosion free. If subject to long periods of moisture then it can corrode as I can certainly attest. In addition if you are sharpening carbon steel these particles can collect on the shaft under the wheel and these will accelerate the corrosion process. Removing the wheel will prevent the shaft from corroding under the wheel.

As you grind some small grit particles can get trapped inside the nut and washer. If the wheel dries out, this can lock the nut and make it difficult to remove.
#9
General Tormek Questions / Re: Is there a way to prevent ...
Last post by Herman Trivilino - September 23, 2026, 05:53:21 PM
Geez! I just hang my grindstone on a 3-inch screw that sticks out of a 2x6 attached to the wall. I know it can't hurt to remove the grindstone between sessions, and I think it helps with the overall health and maintenance of the Tormek. There's grease on the main shaft and water in the grindstone. I know water and grease don't mix, but leaving them in contact with each other causes parts to stick and can make it more difficult to remove the grindstone. And you do need to remove the grindstone occasionally, even if you're not changing grindstones, to grease the main shaft and its bearings.

If you pay attention you'll notice that it takes a lot more water to fill the trough when the grindstone is dry. Even if I haven't used it for a couple of days it still takes less water to fill the trough when I do go to use it. In the humid climate of Houston. I wonder if it would be different if I lived in an arid climate.
#10
General Tormek Questions / Re: Is there a way to prevent ...
Last post by Ken S - September 22, 2026, 11:24:20 PM
Herman is our forum expert on frozen grinding wheels. I was a late comer and did not arrive until 2009, when the shaft on my T7 was the pre EZYlock straight stainless version. I did encounter the the extended dampness problem when I returned my SJ-250, which I thought had dried, to its cardboard box. The box was not ruined, however, it was worse for the wear. After trying several options, I decided on printing the 3D plan from Rich Colvin's Sharpening Handbook. They come in two sizes (250 mm and 200mm). They are non absorbant, joinable, and provide safe, ventilated storage.

Ken