Recent posts

#1

Knife Sharpening / Re: Grit reccomendations for c...

Last post by kwakster - Today at 12:13:15 PM

The 1200 grit CBN wheel will most certainly grind an initial edge on ceramic knives, but that edge will be completely unusable due to chipping (even with careful use)
For most commercial work after creating an initial edge on the SB-250 Blackstone i refine on a first Paper Wheel with 15 micron diamond compound (edge is still unusable after this), and then at least up to 6 micron diamond compound on a second Paper Wheel.
When there are no large chips i often only use the 15 and 6 micron Paper Wheels.

Further refinement with 3 micron diamond compound on a third Paper Wheel or even 1 micron diamond compound on a fourth Paper Wheel leads to a noticeable keener edge as well as much longer edge longevity.
The problem is of course that this also takes much more time, so after a lot of experimenting & testing i have found refinement up to 6 micron to be a good balance of edge keenness & longevity, and time spent sharpening/polishing.

Also: i avoid working on cheap ceramic knives, these are not worth it.
These days i only do quality ceramics.

Maybe this older thread is also helpful:

https://forum.tormek.com/index.php/topic,5672.0.html

#2

Knife Sharpening / Re: Grit reccomendations for c...

Last post by Ken S - Today at 06:30:20 AM

Bpalv,

I found this article by our late member, Wootz (Vadim of Knifegrinders).

Ken

phttp://knifegrinders.com.au/06Procedures_ceramic.htm

#3

General Tormek Questions / Re: Good Light

Last post by Rossy66 - Today at 03:52:22 AM

sorry it's taken so long to reply, been very busy. I don't have the box but took a picture of the back so maybe you can find it online.

#4

General Tormek Questions / Re: Good Light

Last post by BPalv - Yesterday at 10:52:33 PM

Led light panels are relatively cheap, easy to install, bright and many you can change the color on.  The more the merrier.  Install more than you think you will need.  Never too much light in the workspace.

#5

General Tormek Questions / Re: Ultrasonic cleaner to remo...

Last post by BPalv - Yesterday at 10:47:06 PM

I'm wondering if anyone has duplicated these amazing results?
Inquiring minds want to know...

#6

Knife Sharpening / Grit reccomendations for ceram...

Last post by BPalv - Yesterday at 08:49:57 PM

I have an old Gerber with a ceramic blade I would like to try on my T8. My question is, I have CBN wheels up to 1200.  Is that grit small enough or will chipping be an issue?

#7

Knife Sharpening / Re: some subtle information ab...

Last post by BPalv - Yesterday at 08:46:00 PM

For me, edge leading gives me the water bump that helps me keep things square.
Edge trailing for hand sharpening for sure.

#8

Knife Sharpening / Re: Guide to Knife Steel Types

Last post by tgbto - Yesterday at 08:49:37 AM

For more details, you can read a piece I've written in my personal blog.

Hello Jamie,

I sincerely hope your presonal blog is not a collection of AI-written articles. Still, a couple of things would have me either believe the contrary or at least think you should cross-check what you present as definite truths.

A few examples amongst many :
- On your page about "hollow edge knives", what you are describing is not a hollow edge (the edge being the part that actually cuts the food, a hollow edge or concave edge is created by a convex sharpening medium such as a wheel). I suggest you quickly compute an estimate of the weight difference between a scalloped blade and a plain one, you'll see soon enough that there is no significant difference in knife weight. And... "I prefer chef knives because they're thick"? Really ? The "hollow" santoku you show is probably twice as thick as the thickest of my chef knives. The thicker the knife, the higher the resistance to cutting because of the effective surface.

- What you present on your article as a chef knife is actually a santoku, the chef knife being a gyutou instead. I  fail to see how a chef knife would be less able to handle mincing herbs than a utility knife. A chef knife, having a higher blade, allows for more control and consistency while mincing.

And there are countless others.

Well, actually it does look like AI slop. I'm not sure it does anyone a service, including yourself.

#9

Knife Sharpening / Re: Guide to Knife Steel Types

Last post by John Hancock Sr - Yesterday at 02:59:12 AM

With the prevalence of diamond and CBN the sharpening difficulty is not so relevant anymore

#10

Knife Sharpening / Re: Guide to Knife Steel Types

Last post by Jamie007 - May 26, 2026, 11:39:54 PM

Hello,

TDRL; There are two main types of steel you'll find on most knives i.e. Carbon Steel and Stainless Steel.

1. Carbon Steel- It holds the edge for a really long time and is much stronger however, it can't withstand corrosion resistance and needs regular maintenance.

2. Stainless Steel- It is corrosion resistance due to the addition of Chromium and needs fewer maintenance.

For more details, you can read a piece I've written in my personal blog.