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#1
General Tormek Questions / Re: White Fluffy Mold On SG-25...
Last post by carlhanger - Yesterday at 07:45:47 PMMaybe, instead of mold, the white fluff is efflorescence?
#2
Knife Sharpening / Re: Newbie question: chef kniv...
Last post by RickKrung - Yesterday at 05:44:14 PMQuote from: MarthaH on December 23, 2025, 09:53:11 PM...snip...
That said, how do I remove the excess of material towards the grip? I found a video on YT where someone repaired a similar knive by grinding away the excess metal with a belt sander before grinding the blade. I don't have a belt sander, can I use the standard (coarse) Tormek stone for this?
M.
PS. I now can add pics, this is the knive I want to sharpen.You cannot view this attachment.
Quote from: BPalv on Yesterday at 12:56:33 AMUnlike yourself, I started with a belt grinder. I use mine quite frequently for different needs when sharpening. I have a 1x30 variable speed Rikon, but there are a ton of different units out there. They can be pretty inexpensive and would quickly deal with that particular issue you're having.
If you're just sharpening your own knives it may be overkill , but you will find other uses as well.
A belt grinder could be an excellent option, if you do enough sharpening and need the heavier metal removal often enough. I have two, a Viel 1x42 and now a Vevor 1x30. I also have diamond and CBN wheels for my T8 and a Rikon slow speed bench grinder. All cost a good bit (but not nearly as much as a Tormek) and all perform reasonably well.
One note of caution, belt grinders can generate a lot of heat quickly, so to avoid ruining the temper, I highly recommend one that is variable speed. I have just recently been using the Vevor 1x30 and it can be slowed to the same low surface speed as the Tormek grinding wheels. It can also be reversed (through programming steps) to be able to run edge-trailing. This machined, while running about $200 USD is one of the cheaper options (to diamond and CBN wheels) and is extremely versatile, being usable for general purpose grinding of all sorts of things. It does generate that annoying grinding grit debris, however.
However, I think the least expensive and appropriate for the occasional heavy grinding is a traditional high speed grinding wheel mounted/adapted to a Tormek. There has been a lot of discussion on this forum, since at least 2010 about mounting Norton 3X (blue) grinding wheels of either 64 or 80 grit.
They can be quite aggressive, run in the water bath just like Tormek grinding wheels and trued using the Tormek truing tool. At 1" width, and (at least in the USA) an arbor hole that requires custom sleeves to adapt to the Tormek 12mm shaft. Ken S and I have been strong proponents of this method.
If you do a search here for "Norton" or "Norton 3X" you will find so many posts, it may be difficult to find one specific to actually doing the adaptation. It likely will require a bushing to adapt the arbor hole and some flange washers to take up space on the shaft, due to the difference in wheel width. I machined both because I could. Others have found creative ways, one being 12mm fender washers. I think someone found an online source for an adapter. Below is a photo of an 8" Norton 3X mounted on my T8 and another of the bushing and flange washers I machined. Here is a video of truing a 10" no-name grinding wheel on my T8.
#3
Knife Sharpening / Knife modification - Spyderco ...
Last post by kwakster - Yesterday at 04:05:53 PMYears ago i modified this Spyderco Endura ZDP-189 from a saber/flat ground to a saber/hollow ground knife with the help of my trusted Tormek T7 fitted with an SB-250 Black Silicon stone & a modified knife clamp.
Previously the knife looked like this (with an already Tormek reprofiled edge angle of ~25 degrees inclusive)
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Afterwards the knife looked like this.
Although the edge angle was only marginally thinned to ~22,5 degrees inclusive, the area just behind the edge is much thinner now at ~0.3 mm, making the the knife cut better noticeably.
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The job took about 2 hours of grinding (with the SB-250 stone graded to coarse with the help of the TT-50 diamond stone grader), as ZDP-189 in it's hardened state (64-65 HRC on this model) is quite some wear resistant stuff.
To grade it back to fine (for normal sharpening) i use a large diamond stone, as the standard SP-250 grading stone is completely useless on the silicon carbide stone.
For this project i ran my SB-250 in a trough completely filled with a Windex clone to avoid glazing the surface during grinding & sharpening.
The knife is on a more or less permanent loan with a friend of mine who works as a process operator in a baby milk plant, where part of his job is cutting open huge plastic bags (with glued cardboard top layer and about the size of a small room) containing milk powder.
The wear & tear resistant plastic plus the industrial type of cardboard in those bags ruin edges in no-time, and so far this reground ZDP-189 Endura lasts the longest from all the knives used in the plant, also because of those serrations which enable him to get the job done when the plain edge part gets too dull.
Previously the knife looked like this (with an already Tormek reprofiled edge angle of ~25 degrees inclusive)
Afterwards the knife looked like this.
Although the edge angle was only marginally thinned to ~22,5 degrees inclusive, the area just behind the edge is much thinner now at ~0.3 mm, making the the knife cut better noticeably.
The job took about 2 hours of grinding (with the SB-250 stone graded to coarse with the help of the TT-50 diamond stone grader), as ZDP-189 in it's hardened state (64-65 HRC on this model) is quite some wear resistant stuff.
To grade it back to fine (for normal sharpening) i use a large diamond stone, as the standard SP-250 grading stone is completely useless on the silicon carbide stone.
For this project i ran my SB-250 in a trough completely filled with a Windex clone to avoid glazing the surface during grinding & sharpening.
The knife is on a more or less permanent loan with a friend of mine who works as a process operator in a baby milk plant, where part of his job is cutting open huge plastic bags (with glued cardboard top layer and about the size of a small room) containing milk powder.
The wear & tear resistant plastic plus the industrial type of cardboard in those bags ruin edges in no-time, and so far this reground ZDP-189 Endura lasts the longest from all the knives used in the plant, also because of those serrations which enable him to get the job done when the plain edge part gets too dull.
#4
General Tormek Questions / Re: White Fluffy Mold On SG-25...
Last post by BPalv - Yesterday at 03:21:26 PMQuote from: Thy Will Be Done on January 29, 2026, 10:39:30 PMHi,I don't know the cause, but my wheel does the same. Occasionally I don't use my SG for a couple weeks. As it starts to dry it grows a little white fuzz. It hasn't seem to make any difference.
I seem to have some mold growing in and on the wheel, thinking I need to run a solution of hydrogen peroxide through the wheel to kill all of it. Any idea whether this will harm the wheel? Seems like a vitrified bond abrasive which should be chemically invincible I'd imagine.
#5
Knife Sharpening / Re: Knife angle Setter KS 123,...
Last post by Jevans - Yesterday at 05:28:25 AMThanks guys,
Yes, Im thinking a touch of grease and maybe a slight adjustment to the screw will do the trick.
Yes, Im thinking a touch of grease and maybe a slight adjustment to the screw will do the trick.
#6
Knife Sharpening / Re: Newbie question: chef kniv...
Last post by BPalv - Yesterday at 12:56:33 AMUnlike yourself, I started with a belt grinder. I use mine quite frequently for different needs when sharpening. I have a 1x30 variable speed Rikon, but there are a ton of different units out there. They can be pretty inexpensive and would quickly deal with that particular issue you're having.
If you're just sharpening your own knives it may be overkill , but you will find other uses as well.
If you're just sharpening your own knives it may be overkill , but you will find other uses as well.
#7
Knife Sharpening / Knife modification - Strider D...
Last post by kwakster - February 07, 2026, 06:06:34 PMStrider DB in 3V steel.
This is a limited edition of the DB model in CPM-3V steel and made from thinner stock than the usual S30V versions.
Originally it looked like this:
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The straight edge was reprofiled on a Wicked Edge sharpener to 30 degrees inclusive & polished up to 6 micron 3M diamond paste, while the slanted edge was done on a Tormek T7 to 45 degrees inclusive & polished up to 15 micron 3M diamond paste.
Both edges will treetop armhair, the straight edge will also whittle hair in some places.
Now this DB can and will cut, and it still can be used as a sharpened prybar in an emergency.
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Some close-ups:
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Difference between 15 micron and 6 micron;
.png)
This is a limited edition of the DB model in CPM-3V steel and made from thinner stock than the usual S30V versions.
Originally it looked like this:
The straight edge was reprofiled on a Wicked Edge sharpener to 30 degrees inclusive & polished up to 6 micron 3M diamond paste, while the slanted edge was done on a Tormek T7 to 45 degrees inclusive & polished up to 15 micron 3M diamond paste.
Both edges will treetop armhair, the straight edge will also whittle hair in some places.
Now this DB can and will cut, and it still can be used as a sharpened prybar in an emergency.
Some close-ups:
Difference between 15 micron and 6 micron;
#8
Knife Sharpening / Re: Knife angle Setter KS 123,...
Last post by Ken S - February 07, 2026, 01:56:05 PMThe angle setter on my KS-123 was stiff. I loosened the screw ever so slightly, which solved the problem.
Ken
Ken
#9
General Tormek Questions / Re: Some Questions about my ne...
Last post by Ken S - February 07, 2026, 01:52:37 PMCarl,
A tip given to me by support: When you install your new EZYlock shaft, put a thin coating of lithium grease on the face of the spacer washer facing away from your grinding wheel. This should prevent the EZYlock from seizing.
The EZYlock shaft is a real upgrade. It will serve you well.
Keep us posted.
Ken
A tip given to me by support: When you install your new EZYlock shaft, put a thin coating of lithium grease on the face of the spacer washer facing away from your grinding wheel. This should prevent the EZYlock from seizing.
The EZYlock shaft is a real upgrade. It will serve you well.
Keep us posted.
Ken
#10
Knife Sharpening / Re: Knife angle Setter KS 123,...
Last post by Royale - February 07, 2026, 01:49:08 PMI stripped my KS-123 down, cleaned it thoroughly, and just applied a wee bit of PTFE grease on the pivot area. So far after a few months of daily use, it's been pretty smooth.