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#1
Knife Sharpening / Re: Recurve filet knives (why?...
Last post by Swemek - Yesterday at 05:01:59 PM
Haha I see now that the example wasn't the best. There are filet knives that are worse were the recurve starts further down the blade.
#2
Knife Sharpening / Recurve filet knives (why?)
Last post by Swemek - Yesterday at 02:52:09 PM
I think it's really annoying to sharpen many filet knives, the ones that has a recurve, like the one below. I have old wheels that I have rounded for knifes like this. But is there a reason for this shape on (some) filet knives?

My guess is that the negative curve is there for aesthetics and that the often flexible blade needs some support, which a straight blade wouldn't give?

This must be an issue for other sharpening scenarios and not only on Tormek. I have tormeks diamond wheels and want best possible sharpness on filet knives for obvious reasons.

#3
Knife Sharpening / Re: some subtle information ab...
Last post by Swemek - Yesterday at 02:16:40 PM
Isn't it surprising that he said that the grinding direction doesn't matter? I've been told that the direction against the edge gives shorter burr that's easier to remove, rather than longer burr on gets from grinding away from the edge. Maybe it's splitting hairs in the context?

I have one of theses Mora carving knifes, they are a joy to use and extremely sharp when new, way sharper than the ordinary Moras, also very easy to sharpen and maintain.

Nice video, thanks!
#4
Hand Tool Woodworking / Re: Stanley #1 plane
Last post by Ken S - March 27, 2026, 09:10:05 PM
Good questions, Tom. Paul Sellers from the UK is certainly an excellent source. Another excellent resource person in the US is Ernie Conover. He can be emailed through conoverworkshops.com.  I have known Ernie for thirty years and have taken numerous classes with him, including his handplane restoration class. He is an excellent teacher.

The #1 plane is really a very collectable plane rather than a user. Approach any restoration carefully.

Ken
#5
Tormek T4 and T4 Bushcraft / Tormek convexing video
Last post by Ken S - March 27, 2026, 08:50:07 PM
I was pleased to find this new video from Tormek about convexing sharpening a knife with a T4 Bushcraft. Granted, it could be just as easily done with a T7/8 or a regular T4; however, I have felt the T4 Bushcraft has not received much press.

The video was very well done, both informationally and technically. Here is a link:

https://youtu.be/zqqEyRU2SxY?si=-MOVJymKkkPCObaJ

Ken
#6
I know in Australia the woodworking stores have several Tormek knock offs and I think the UK would be much the same. They come in at about AU$400 which is probably around 200 pounds or less. The wheels are interchangeable.
#7
Tormek T4 and T4 Bushcraft / Re: T-4 compatibility in the 2...
Last post by Hobbit72 - March 27, 2026, 10:51:37 AM
Ken

Thank you for the response 👍. I will have a look at those options
#8
Hand Tool Woodworking / Re: Stanley #1 plane
Last post by rolsen - March 27, 2026, 09:55:10 AM
Surface rust can often be dealt with WD-40 and Scotch-Brite pads.
#9
Hand Tool Woodworking / Re: Stanley #1 plane
Last post by John Hancock Sr - March 27, 2026, 05:59:17 AM
If it is just surface rust then I would use Ballistol as a lubricant on some wet&dry - 80-120 as rolsen says. Ballistol disolves surface rust and also lubricates and protects. As for flattening, it does depend on how out of flat it is. If it is way out then it may require a LOT of patience to flatten. You do really want it as flat as possible for best performance.

One of the better hand tool teachers is Paul Sellars. A man with a lot of experience and a great teacher. His plane restoration video is here.

https://paulsellers.com/2016/01/restoring-bench-plane-video-on-youtube/
#10
Hand Tool Woodworking / Re: Stanley #1 plane
Last post by rolsen - March 26, 2026, 09:28:50 PM
1. https://woodandshop.com/identify-stanley-hand-plane-age-type-study/ is quite helpfull usually
2. It depends. If you're going to make it a user, then go for it.
3. Evapo-Rust is my go-to for rust removal, it is safe to use and it does a very good job.

All in all, Stanley #1 is a very collectable hand plane, all things you do for it, will lessen its value. But, if you gonna make it a user for yourself, do whatever you need to make it functional. Thick glass plate is good base to put some 80-120 grit sandpaper on, for flattening of the sole.