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#21
General Tormek Questions / Re: Capacitor Impedance for To...
Last post by HaioPaio - July 04, 2025, 01:50:11 PMWhat you are looking for is called capacitance, not impedance.
Tormek support will help.
Tormek support will help.
#22
General Tormek Questions / Re: Capacitor Impedance for To...
Last post by Ken S - July 04, 2025, 01:03:49 PMWelcome to theforum, Derek.
I suggest you email support, (support@tormek.se).
Ken
I suggest you email support, (support@tormek.se).
Ken
#23
General Tormek Questions / Capacitor Impedance for Tormek...
Last post by dellis356 - July 04, 2025, 11:30:01 AMWhat is the micro Farad required for this machine?
#24
General Tormek Questions / Re: Water disposal
Last post by tgbto - July 03, 2025, 02:09:36 PMAside from specific, occasional sessions where I combine diamonds and SG,I usually leave the water trough to rest for a day, on the lowest position. This allows for the wheel to release the water it absorbed, and for the slurry to sediment on the bottom.
Afterwards I empty the (mostly clear) water in the sink, and the wet (yet compact) slurry goes to the trash.
Afterwards I empty the (mostly clear) water in the sink, and the wet (yet compact) slurry goes to the trash.
#25
General Tormek Questions / Re: Water disposal
Last post by RichColvin - July 03, 2025, 01:18:12 PMSome use a coffee filter for such purposes
#26
General Tormek Questions / Re: Water disposal
Last post by PANIC!!! - July 03, 2025, 11:45:23 AMThanks all for the replies / recommendations.
I will try to figure something out. I also have to consider winter time where I don't really want to have to go outside to empty the water tank.
I think it will end up being something like separating the water from the solids in two buckets of some sort. And disposing of both in a different manner. Like trashing the solids/residues and flushing the water.
I will try to figure something out. I also have to consider winter time where I don't really want to have to go outside to empty the water tank.
I think it will end up being something like separating the water from the solids in two buckets of some sort. And disposing of both in a different manner. Like trashing the solids/residues and flushing the water.
#27
General Tormek Questions / Re: Should I Persist?
Last post by Ken S - July 03, 2025, 09:02:33 AMPete,
It may surprise you to learn that I actually agree with you on several points. Those of us who have followed my posts over the years will know that I have been an advocate of the T4 since it was first introduced. That stated, I have been an honest critic. I have never liked the way it has been marketed. I have never thought of it as a stripped down, less expensive version of the T8.
When it was introduced, the T4 was Tormek's most advanced model. It was a major redesign of the T3. The machined zinc top, later incorporated in the T8, allowed much greater accuracy than the Then flagship model, the T7. My comments over the years have run counter to the prevailing "more ecenomical, hobbiest" sales pitch. In my opinion, the T4 is a professional quality machine when properly equipped. I have equipped my T4 with a TT-50 truing Tool, and both the steel EZYlock and quick change nut listed as spare parts for the T7/8. The "thirty minute duty" myth should have been eliminated from the start. It never was a problem with the T4..
I believe the T4 should have only been sold with the truing tool. Initial truing is always good grinding practice, just as frequent flattening is for bench stones. The need for truing is not a criticism of Tormek quality; it is just part of grinding, just like oil changes are with vehicle engines.
Sadly, we live in a do it yourself world where customer training is regarded as an expense rather than a compensated part of customer service. A training session with a Tormek instructor would have solved your problems. The bump in your leather wheel is a one time, less than a minute fix with a scrap of sandpaper. Truing the grinding wheel requires a Truing tool, but is a skill quickly and easily mastered.
Getting a square grind is also not a difficult skill to learn.Tormek has made learning so much easier with the handbook and the online classes. I have lost track of how many times I have read the handbook and watched the classes. I learn more with each repetition.
Purchasing a Tormek is a lifetime investment. I hope you will not short circuit your Tormek experience by premature giving up. The learning curve is worth the effort.
Keep posting your questions; we have all been there.
Ken
It may surprise you to learn that I actually agree with you on several points. Those of us who have followed my posts over the years will know that I have been an advocate of the T4 since it was first introduced. That stated, I have been an honest critic. I have never liked the way it has been marketed. I have never thought of it as a stripped down, less expensive version of the T8.
When it was introduced, the T4 was Tormek's most advanced model. It was a major redesign of the T3. The machined zinc top, later incorporated in the T8, allowed much greater accuracy than the Then flagship model, the T7. My comments over the years have run counter to the prevailing "more ecenomical, hobbiest" sales pitch. In my opinion, the T4 is a professional quality machine when properly equipped. I have equipped my T4 with a TT-50 truing Tool, and both the steel EZYlock and quick change nut listed as spare parts for the T7/8. The "thirty minute duty" myth should have been eliminated from the start. It never was a problem with the T4..
I believe the T4 should have only been sold with the truing tool. Initial truing is always good grinding practice, just as frequent flattening is for bench stones. The need for truing is not a criticism of Tormek quality; it is just part of grinding, just like oil changes are with vehicle engines.
Sadly, we live in a do it yourself world where customer training is regarded as an expense rather than a compensated part of customer service. A training session with a Tormek instructor would have solved your problems. The bump in your leather wheel is a one time, less than a minute fix with a scrap of sandpaper. Truing the grinding wheel requires a Truing tool, but is a skill quickly and easily mastered.
Getting a square grind is also not a difficult skill to learn.Tormek has made learning so much easier with the handbook and the online classes. I have lost track of how many times I have read the handbook and watched the classes. I learn more with each repetition.
Purchasing a Tormek is a lifetime investment. I hope you will not short circuit your Tormek experience by premature giving up. The learning curve is worth the effort.
Keep posting your questions; we have all been there.
Ken
#28
General Tormek Questions / Re: Should I Persist?
Last post by PeteH - July 03, 2025, 03:33:30 AMFurther, if it is necessary it true the wheel before any use, then the TT-50 should be included with any starter kit and should be included in the instructions.
#29
General Tormek Questions / Re: Should I Persist?
Last post by PeteH - July 03, 2025, 03:27:10 AMHi Rich
Yes I understand the process of setting up an artisan made tool. However, the marketing of these expensive machines highlight the high quality of construction. The machine I bought displays no such qualities.
My experience of Tormek has found the quality control to be on par with woodworking tools purchased on Temu.
Yes I understand the process of setting up an artisan made tool. However, the marketing of these expensive machines highlight the high quality of construction. The machine I bought displays no such qualities.
My experience of Tormek has found the quality control to be on par with woodworking tools purchased on Temu.
#30
General Tormek Questions / Re: Should I Persist?
Last post by RichColvin - July 03, 2025, 03:02:52 AMPete,
I am sad to hear that you are having such a bad experience with your Tormek. I have had a Tormek for over 20 years, and I am thankful I made the investment back then.
I want to pass on a couple of thoughts to you before you put your machine up for sale. I don't mean for these to be an insult to your abilities; I have never met you so I cannot judge your skills. Rather, it is to offer up some ways of thinking about your sharpening journey.
Consider the work one must do to make a new Japanese chisel usable. John Reed Fox wrote an article for Fine Woodworking in 2013, "How To Set Up Your New Japanese Chisel". Just the activities to set the hoop seem a bit onerous to me (Jay Speetjens wrote an article about that in 2012, "Japanese Chisel Tuneup: Setting the Hoop").
And I cannot begin to think what it must feel like when one must tap out a Japanese chisel blade once the sharpening has progressed back far enough. To say I would be nervous is an understatement.
I guess those activities are what comes with going the route of Japanese woodworking tools, and those like Andew Hunter who have chosen that path seem to find joy in the activities.
I would not view your experiences as user error; rather I urge you to consider it a learning curve.
When I got started using the Tormek, it was many years before I became comfortable grinding the tool with the grindstone rotating towards me. I thought it would be too easy to make a mistake. Now, I am very comfortable achieving quick results that way.
As a woodturner, I feel the same way about the skew and especially the bedan. I've been woodturning for many years (30+), and it is only within the last few years where I have felt comfortable using the skew. (The bedan is still on the list to be mastered.)
I love the Tormek approach to sharpening. I always get consistent results which makes the use of the tools easier: I don't have to readjust to them every time.
I like that the process does not remove lots of metal from the tools I sharpen, tools I spent a lot of money to buy. When I started turning, I sharpened my turning tools on the bench grinder. I found I was quickly making them shorter and shorter (that was before CBN wheels became as prevalent). Now, I don't have that problem.
And I like that the Tormek does not toss a lot of metal filings / dust into the air.
You probably experience the same with hand sharpening on stones; I cannot say as I have not done that for many years. But I can say that using the Tormek does sharpen my tools quickly, far faster than when I did it by hand.
——————————————
As it regards the TT-50 Truing Tool, you were going to need that sooner than later. That accessory should be viewed as comparable to the diamond stone you need to true a water stone.
Best of luck to you,
Rich
I am sad to hear that you are having such a bad experience with your Tormek. I have had a Tormek for over 20 years, and I am thankful I made the investment back then.
I want to pass on a couple of thoughts to you before you put your machine up for sale. I don't mean for these to be an insult to your abilities; I have never met you so I cannot judge your skills. Rather, it is to offer up some ways of thinking about your sharpening journey.
Consider the work one must do to make a new Japanese chisel usable. John Reed Fox wrote an article for Fine Woodworking in 2013, "How To Set Up Your New Japanese Chisel". Just the activities to set the hoop seem a bit onerous to me (Jay Speetjens wrote an article about that in 2012, "Japanese Chisel Tuneup: Setting the Hoop").
And I cannot begin to think what it must feel like when one must tap out a Japanese chisel blade once the sharpening has progressed back far enough. To say I would be nervous is an understatement.
I guess those activities are what comes with going the route of Japanese woodworking tools, and those like Andew Hunter who have chosen that path seem to find joy in the activities.
I would not view your experiences as user error; rather I urge you to consider it a learning curve.
When I got started using the Tormek, it was many years before I became comfortable grinding the tool with the grindstone rotating towards me. I thought it would be too easy to make a mistake. Now, I am very comfortable achieving quick results that way.
As a woodturner, I feel the same way about the skew and especially the bedan. I've been woodturning for many years (30+), and it is only within the last few years where I have felt comfortable using the skew. (The bedan is still on the list to be mastered.)
I love the Tormek approach to sharpening. I always get consistent results which makes the use of the tools easier: I don't have to readjust to them every time.
I like that the process does not remove lots of metal from the tools I sharpen, tools I spent a lot of money to buy. When I started turning, I sharpened my turning tools on the bench grinder. I found I was quickly making them shorter and shorter (that was before CBN wheels became as prevalent). Now, I don't have that problem.
And I like that the Tormek does not toss a lot of metal filings / dust into the air.
You probably experience the same with hand sharpening on stones; I cannot say as I have not done that for many years. But I can say that using the Tormek does sharpen my tools quickly, far faster than when I did it by hand.
——————————————
As it regards the TT-50 Truing Tool, you were going to need that sooner than later. That accessory should be viewed as comparable to the diamond stone you need to true a water stone.
Best of luck to you,
Rich