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Fernando, the hot water heaters put out hot water normally in the range of 120 to 140 degree's F.  It is mixed at the faucet to bring it down to a temperature that one is comfortable with, that is much lower then what would affect the tempering of a knife.
I am wondering if your confusing 120 (where is that degree symbol again) F, with 120 C?

Mineral oil is also used on cutting boards, so it is something good to have around for both uses.  (I know it is also the oil/lube recommended for the Hobart slicer my friends restaurant uses)

I want to see Ken demo this.

How did you inspect the play in the bushings?  Were you able to get the stone off the shaft?
If your able to get it off and you think you need bushings, consider the shaft upgrade with the EZ nut.  (WELL worth it)
The bushings and the shaft should be lubed once a year (probably more if used a lot with the non stainless shaft).  While any grease should do, I believe white lithium was what was originally recommended.  I however use a food grade approved grease that is inexpensive and I picked up as Snap on uses it in their ratchets.  (Super Lube)  One tube should last a long time as is inexpensive, as well as available at some building centers, and a few other places.
As you learned you should always fill the water trough and let it run a bit.
Also on those older models, they do not have a magnet in the tray.  The newer ones have a place for a magnet, the older ones I have seen a magnet inside a small ziplock bag, or gluing magnets on the outside of the water tray.  Both have pro's and con's.  I think if I obtained a new to me, older unit, now what I might do is glue some metal onto the tray and place a magnet on it.  This would allow me to pull the magnet off and watch the metal fall into the trash can easier.

Ken,
There are two types of knives, Forged, which tend to be thicker, and stamped, which tend to be thinner.  Forged knives, generally have scales on them (the handles) and a lot of health departments are getting away from scales (already got away from wood/porous handles).  The rivet locations are "another potential problem, source.
Stamped knives are common in both low end and high end.  Their handles are plastic in nature, with various gripping textures and you can find them in your local warehouse stores, to knife shops (think the Victorinox knife that gets such high ratings).  They are thinner then the forged ones, and lighter weight.  Like a kerf on a saw blade, they allow less waster, where the forged knives might give you more heft for tougher cutting.

CB,
The bevel of the knife.  With a full size Tormek, I could create enough bevel, to have a secondary bevel via the buffing wheel.  With the T2, I was not pressing down, but letting the wheel do the work, where the bevel was smaller.  When I get some more knives, I will have to try pressing down some, and see if I could increase the bevel, so their is a pronounced spot where the secondary bevel would be.

Thanks for the link, I watched the video and my first reaction was "they are running these in water?".
Then I realized the water is more of a heat sink for the tool and to take away metal particles.  But is something required to use water with these wheels?  (additive) or does this recommend/require distilled water?  Will that affect the wheel (cleaning, or substrait rusting) ?
Also one image of the video, makes me want to see the finish of the extra fine wheel, compared to the SJ wheel.  I am now starting to think the EF wheel might be the better value.

Received my/our (sharing with the restaurant), T2 today.  I didn't press hard and just basically drew it across the diamond wheel, and it definitely only required a light touch.
I noticed it produces a smaller edge then I can put on the same blade, which could be both a good and bad thing.  It will require sharpening a bit more often, however it is easy to do with it.  I also think one can get something sharper on some blades with the full size Tormek then on the T2, as the T2 can not handle as thick of blades.  The T2 works great however and certainly fulfills a need.

That said, it is making me want to play with the new wheels.

I certainly would be interested in the butchering stuff.  I ALSO, would love to see something that I don't remember ever seeing a Tormek video of, sharpening serrations.  A lot of knives, both indoor and outdoor, are serrated at least in part.  I'd like to actually see someone from Tormek do that.
What about arrowheads? (bow hunting)
Thank you!

If it was a square frame model (as I suspect), you would probably want to replace the shaft with the newer stainless model with quick release, anyway.
The frame, without seeing, could be taken to a machinist or autobody shop, and possibly straightened, or replaced with a later 2000 or T7 frame, that matched except for paint colors.
The last time I priced a housing, it wasn't considered cost effective.

For me, the side of the wheel will give the opportunity to use it for flattening backs of chisels and plane blades.  I expect it might also be great for the backs of serrated knives, where I use the wheel as the "flat line" to have an even surface.

I have a T2 coming, so I will be interested in if there is anything different with its honing wheel and doing serrated knives. (no good english video's)

I see the honing wheel as a step into the past as it sounds like the original wheel. (stuff impregnated in the wheel during manufacture)
I certainly understand a couple reasons for going diamond.  The lack of needing water (and a tray for bacteria to grow in), the ease of use (fixed size/repeatable), the general commercial need for touch ups, not chip removal.
The size has pro's and con's.  While you may not be able to work as easily with as large a knife as its predecessor, the ease of storage/use and the normal knives used in a kitchen, make up for it.

I think the SJ stone has a place certainly in certain types of eastern restaurants (spelling, sishimi knife). 

So, my curiosity was aroused... anyone have an example of the SJ wheel actually being used on a Japanese knife? 

(A sashimi knife in particular... I think you'd be hard pressed to find one being sharpened on a Tormek... but would be interested in seeing it done).

I have no idea where I saw it.  Before the T2 was available for commercial use in the USA, there was a video (seems like it dealt with other issues) where during it, they shown their T7 and their SJ stone that they used regularly on their knives.
This is why I think someone would choose the SJ stone over the diamond stone, current user and no reason to spend more money.

I think my comments about social media replacing forums, was viewed as a negative against Tormek (and maybe Stig).  That was not my intent.  I think it's simply a fact

While it is a fact that a lot of things are going that way, IMHO, it IS a negative.   When you have family in certain professions, and/or deal with stalking victims, or others whose safety requires more privacy, staying off social media, doesn't always mean just that person.

I haven't been on the forum in a while, life has a way of getting in the way.  (been working 12 to 14 hour days, so when I am off, I am exhausted)
I am looking forward to the course wheel, and due to my long hours, when I saw the email, I tried to find one online to order (missed the coming in June part).  I like refurbishing tools and such and can see this for things like dressing screwdrivers, chipped plane blades, shaping lathe tools, etc.  Then I could use either my black wheel or my SG stone, and of course vary the grinding a bit (pressure, stone use, etc).
I think the SJ stone has a place certainly in certain types of eastern restaurants (spelling, sishimi knife).  The E series diamond stone, might give it a run for its money in cost, durability, and edge for those that don't already have one.  But most knifes I think the thoughts on the forum are, should have a bit of a toothy edge.
So I would think if you were consistently touching up the same types of tools, the F diamond stone, might be as fine as you want.

I would be more apt to use a diamond stone, then I would an SJ stone if it is the machine I think it is.