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That is similar to how the local knife shop, has their much larger stone.  I think our T2 converted platform, on the new side bar, could do the same from one side of the wheel.

[very important to always apply a low pressure]

Could anyone tell me please the Tormek diamond wheels technical specifications or where I can read it?

Are they aluminium, steel or something else based?
What diamonds are used: polycrystalline or monocrystalline?
What bonding is: nickel-electroplating or else?
What is the diamond layer thickness?
What warranty they come with - lifetime or ...?

Hello Wootz and the rest of you,

The Tormek Diamond Wheels are constructed with a precision machined steel frame. The frame is coated with a single layer of diamond grit that is electrolytically anchored with nickel. The type of diamond we're using is confidential and cannot be shared publicly. The bonding is, like you (Wootz) is suggesting, nickel-electroplating. The diamond wheels are covered of the general Tormek warranty against peeling.

The life of the wheel is very much related to how it's used. It is very important to always apply a low pressure when sharpening. If you are sharpening with a new diamond wheel, a very low pressure should be applied. The diamond grits on a new diamond wheel are very sharp and sensitive to high pressure. We also recommend to always use water when sharpening with the diamond wheel, as it prolongs the life of the wheel and provides a finer surface. When you sharpen with water, remember to always use the ACC-150 Anti-Corrosion Concentrate in the water to prevent rust on the diamond wheel.

Here's a link to the information sheet with all the information: https://www.tormek.com/media/1911657/information-tormek-diamond-wheels-en.pdf

Kind regards,
Marie - Marketing Manager, Tormek

Are the T2 wheels the same manufacture, and would there be benefit to using them with water?
I can say, after getting a T2 that I got to try the other day, it really has put a smile on multiple faces.  Takes as much time to get it out and setup as it does to sharpen a knife that is just starting to get dull, and back to work in under two minutes.

Maybe if a few members email expressing some interest...

Advanced Machinery Email 

I bet it wouldn't hurt to CC support at Tormek.  (they need to know there is a want/need as well.

Let us know the part number and availability when you hear back.  Thanks

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bfEVKoPX2ZQ

I remember there was a discussion some time back and this person was the one linked to/poster in a forum.

Do you have a google or Youtube account?

Maybe someday, this forum will have an option that so many others do.  Either subscribe or bookmark threads, so that one can refer/return to them later.

https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3565.msg22884#msg22884

Tried via the search to see if any link to the video was posted.  Did this video happen and if so, where the heck is it?

Slanted front, means it should also have the sticker that gives you an idea (if you forget a tape measure) how big the wheel is.
That model became the T-7 when they changed the shaft to Stainless steel.  A year or two later (approx) they changed the shaft again, to the quick release model (the upgrade that is purchasable now). 
Check to see if it runs (they certainly should be able to prove that), and see if there are signs of rust around the wheel.  You could (if they allow examination), remove the nut and wheel on the opposite side and pull the shaft out with the grinding wheel on, and see if it seems stuck to the shaft.  (common, but makes it worth less, or could be brought up to make competitors think less of it)
If it is stuck, you could just use it as is, until you need/get the next wheel, then upgrade both the shaft and replace the bushings at the same time.
See the video on Youtube labeled Tormek upgrades: EzyLock and AWT-250
Just for square frame/history:
https://www.tormek.com/usa/en/about-tormek/the-tormek-story/

I do wonder about those that didn't upgrade the support bar, as most that I have observed, seemed to be/have turners tools/attachments for it, where they set the bar with other methods.  The threaded bar (which at least one member here, threaded his existing bar with a die), is more for hand tools/knives and such.  That may not be a big thing for your uses.
Take a picture of the tool kits, so you can spot the accessories if they are sold separately, which is another auctioneers trick to raise more money.

Some years back now, I beat the norm by buying a Supergrind and all the turning components and spare wheel for $188.
Mine is the version that has the same shape as the T-7, not the earlier square version.  I wonder which style frame the one your looking at has, as the square version could have clearance issues with some tools and that front mount.  Is there rust on the shaft and stone?  Any other tools with it?
Auctions tend to go one of two ways, but personally I don't see this as the "bare tool" to be worth more then $250, while they are routinely priced at a LOT more then that.

I would be interested in seeing axes done.  I have had success with hatchets, but not with axes and those two to three foot handles.

I use superlube and there should be an initial greasing of the shaft as well as oil the leather wheel before the first use.  This is where the older Jeff Farris video's shined, as he originally included a bit of oil and grease years ago, with his units as a setup kit.  I haven't seen the current T8 setup video, so I don't know what they include.
As a home user, I have to grease mine once a year.  Maybe Steve will chime in with how often he had to grease his portable units.

One reason for the thrift store recommendation is to learn/practice Steve's by hand technique.
One other thing that I think would be a good item to have is a ceramic hone.  I was asked to sharpen some knives by my friends restaurant recently.  I took them home, cleaned them and ran them over the leather wheel then the hone.  That was all they needed and my friend found out the hard way, how sharp they were. (cut himself without noticing)

Now I bought them the T4 and for their uses, they are excited at how easy it is and it saves me some time. (and I get to play with it)
Enjoy your time with the new toy.

I would also recommend Steve's book/course, and make a recommendation of hitting up thrift shops in your area (garage sales as well) for old knives/tools.  You could practice on them and then have them for sale, as a reminder for people to bring their stuff for sharpening.

Try the OUTSIDE of the anglemaster.  What angle does it fit, divide in half.

The answer is in the question... no measuring needed. 

No, no measuring needed, because it is already set.  That doesn't mean I don't think some future reader will get the idea this is the way you are supposed to use it.

Try the OUTSIDE of the anglemaster.  What angle does it fit, divide in half.