"let the abrasive do the work"

[Ken S]

I have been watching several of Richard Blaine's you tubes. He made a very interesting comment on his you tube sharpening a Chinese cleaver. He was using DMT diamond tools. He used the expression, "let the abrasive do the work", in other words, use a light touch. He credits his light touch for the longevity of his diamond sharpening tools. I believe we will say the same thing about the longevity of our new Tormek diamond wheels. When using them, we must unlearn our heavy handed SG technique. We have a different kind of abrasive.

Ken

[SharpenADullWitt]

Received my/our (sharing with the restaurant), T2 today.  I didn't press hard and just basically drew it across the diamond wheel, and it definitely only required a light touch.
I noticed it produces a smaller edge then I can put on the same blade, which could be both a good and bad thing.  It will require sharpening a bit more often, however it is easy to do with it.  I also think one can get something sharper on some blades with the full size Tormek then on the T2, as the T2 can not handle as thick of blades.  The T2 works great however and certainly fulfills a need.

That said, it is making me want to play with the new wheels.

[Ken S]

SADW,

Very good post. I think you have discovered the real intention of the T2. Whereas the conventional Tormeks usually sharpen knives infrequently, the T2 is designed for regular sharpening. In a way, it seems like a motorized steel for fastidious chefs who always want their knives to be very sharp. I like the way you summarize it, easy to sharpen often.

I think it is primarily used for the modern, thinner knives. For years I was a devout believer in my heavier, bolstered Henckel traditional knives. I have come to realize that thinner modern knives cut more easily. You are the one involved with a restaurant. Are most of the knives thinner?

I would modify your statement about thicker knives slightly. They work better in the jig. I think the T4 would be just as functional for sharpening them as the larger models.

I agree with your statement that the T2 works great and certainly fulfills a need. It is a very specialized machine, however, it fulfills its specialty well.

I think the curiosity bug has bitten you. The T2's diamond wheels are intriguing and they work with any Tormek. The T4 is an exact fit. With the larger Tormeks, just add the T2's spacer washer to fill the gap and you are ready to go. Just remember, use a light touch, let the abrasive do the work.

Ken

[cbwx34]

...
I noticed it produces a smaller edge then I can put on the same blade, which could be both a good and bad thing.  It will require sharpening a bit more often, however it is easy to do with it.  I also think one can get something sharper on some blades with the full size Tormek then on the T2, as the T2 can not handle as thick of blades.  The T2 works great however and certainly fulfills a need.
...

Can you explain the "it produces a smaller edge" part?  Just curious what you mean... in my head, if sharpening at the same angle, the edge should be the same... so not sure exactly what you're saying here.

[SharpenADullWitt]

Ken,
There are two types of knives, Forged, which tend to be thicker, and stamped, which tend to be thinner.  Forged knives, generally have scales on them (the handles) and a lot of health departments are getting away from scales (already got away from wood/porous handles).  The rivet locations are "another potential problem, source.
Stamped knives are common in both low end and high end.  Their handles are plastic in nature, with various gripping textures and you can find them in your local warehouse stores, to knife shops (think the Victorinox knife that gets such high ratings).  They are thinner then the forged ones, and lighter weight.  Like a kerf on a saw blade, they allow less waster, where the forged knives might give you more heft for tougher cutting.

CB,
The bevel of the knife.  With a full size Tormek, I could create enough bevel, to have a secondary bevel via the buffing wheel.  With the T2, I was not pressing down, but letting the wheel do the work, where the bevel was smaller.  When I get some more knives, I will have to try pressing down some, and see if I could increase the bevel, so their is a pronounced spot where the secondary bevel would be.

[Ken S]

Good information, SADW.
Thanks.
Ken

[cbwx34]

CB,
The bevel of the knife.  With a full size Tormek, I could create enough bevel, to have a secondary bevel via the buffing wheel.  With the T2, I was not pressing down, but letting the wheel do the work, where the bevel was smaller.  When I get some more knives, I will have to try pressing down some, and see if I could increase the bevel, so their is a pronounced spot where the secondary bevel would be.

Thanks.  I guess I still don't understand... bevel size is related to angle... not really pressure.  I wonder if it's a difference in how the angles are being measured between the two machines (especially if you're using the AngleMaster on one)... as well as the shape of the knife, in particular, whether there is any taper on the sides and how much, etc.

[bisonbladesharpening]

Bevel size or angle is not related to pressure.  In my mind
bevel size is how far up the blade the bevel goes and is geometrically related
to the angle of the bevel and the thickness of the blade.
The thicker the blade, the more the bevel will go up the blade at the same angle.
It is also much easier to distinguish a secondary bevel on a thicker or forged blade.
Best wishes
Tim