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Pete, this is from the website:

The two day school (about 10 hours) is $600.  All classes are one-on-one unless you come with someone; see two-fer special below.  On Day One you will learn my method of combining wet grinding with paper wheel honing and stropping, and become able to sharpen most household knives.  On Day Two you will learn how to sharpen scissors and garden tools.  You can try any of the listed equipment and get some practice time sharpening knives and scissors that you brought. Two days is recommended for anyone thinking about starting a sharpening business.
A one day class (about 6 hours) tailored to your interests is available for $400.  All classes include lunch. 
Sometimes I am working at a market the day after class.  Students are invited to work as my apprentice on these dates and  see my business in operation.
A certificate is awarded upon successful completion of the course.

Interesting.  I'll try it that way next time I reprofile.

Thanks.

Ken

Jeff,

Would it be correct to assume you mean placing the knife on a flat surface (such as the Torlock) and reshaping at a 90 degree angle?  Would you do this with knife i the front (horizontal) position?

Ken

Pete,

I have been thinking about you and your post.  As I mentioned, I am not a professional sharpener.  However, if I was to to that, the first thing I would want would be good training.

I would recommend good training for you even before purchasing a machine.  I don't know where you live.  I happen to live in Ohio, so I would contact Steve Bottorff (sharpeningmadeeasy.com).  I have never met him, and am going only be what is on his website.  He offers a two day sharpening class.  It is private instruction, only one student at a time.  Depending on when which class one chooses, you get the opportunity to work with him that Saturday as his apprentice.  Two days of private instruction and a day as an apprentice sound like a solid foundation to me.

At that point, you would know which equipment you wish to purchase.  You would learn about the business end of things as well as how to sharpen.

Steve might be able to recommend someone in your area if Cleveland is out of the question for you.

Perhaps other members have taken Steve's class and would chime in.

Ken

Hi, Grover.

I wondered the same thing not too long ago.  I ended up just buying the standard knife jig for a starter.  In my case, the only knife I own which is doubtful with it is the eight inch slicing knife.  All the others, including the eight inch chef's knife, are easily doable with the standard jig.  (My present 1000 grit Norton stone is adequate for the odd time I might need to sharpen the little used long slicer.)

I did later buy the scissors jig.  (I have not had occasion to use it yet.)

I can't imagine (me) using the axe jig. 

At this point, buying the long knife jig would be to add it to "the compleat" collection.

For me, the kit would not have been a good investment.

You know your own needs better than I do.  My thought would be to start out with the T7 and the standard knife jig.

(Be sure to watch Jeff's knife sharpening video.)

Welcome and good luck,

Ken

Good reply, Ern.

Pete,
You deserve some good answers.  Unfortunately, I don't think you will find them here.  Look at the member statistics.  If you filter out the members who have not posted ten times or more, you can count the remainder on your fingers.  If you do not include Jeff, the moderator, who is very knowledgeable, I come in about fourth.  I am not a professional sharpener.  Ionut, who is the most active participant, has stated he is an amateur.  I'm not sure about Herman or Ern.

I would assume there are some professionals in the membership, and probably a larger numbers of sideline sharpeners.  The bulk of the membership, unfortunately, is mute.  That seems regrettable, because I believe we may have much more expertise in the group.

I would suggest you check out sharpeningmadeeasy.com.  Steve Buttorff seems a very experiences sharpener who uses (several) Tormek machines.

I hope the non posting members will prove me wrong and chime in.

Ken

mGuitars,

I knew an old refinisher.  He was a real expert in his craft.  He told me that when he was apprenticing, his mentor gave him a piece of bird's eye maple and tole him to scrape it "until the eyes popped out".  He scraped and scraped, and finally told his mentor it could not be done.  The mentor was undaunted, and told him to keep scraping.  With much cursing, he continued.  To his great surprise, the eyes finally popped.

Scraping is a valuable, underutilized skill.

Ken

Robbo, a good use for the Tormek.  The real strength in the design favors sharpening over shaping.

Ken

I started using Ron Hock's suggestion of testing an edge with a plastic pen.  It works like using your thumb nail.  If the blade catches, it is sharp.  If it slides, it's back to the sharpening equipment.

Young children note my resemblance to Santa Claus.  If my white beard had sharpener's disease blotches, it might frighten the young ones.

Happy holidays to all.

Ken

Good point, Ionut.  Often the most difficult part of a task is finding someone capable of doing it and motivated to do it well. Your friend is fortunate. Life is a continuing education.

Ken

Too bad, Jeff.  If the demos were as informative as the videos on your website, they are a real loss.

Ken

Putting a hook on the scraper sounds very aggressive to me. Using the side of a chisel sounds more controllable  and less prone to chatter.  I believe the Lie-Nielsen Cabinetmaker Scraper Plane blade is often used without a hook.  It is slower, but very controllable.

I am concerned about the chunk of leather you super glued back.  It might not be a problem with the slow speed of the Tormek.  I would be inclined to replace the wheel.  Keep the old wheel in case you have any brainstorms for new uses.

Congratulations are in order to yet another "two star".  Kudos, Herman.  Keep up the good work, guys.

"one star"

Interesting post, guys.  Two thoughts come to mind:

1) Why do so many people (dare I say "we") wait until once sharp edges are not dull but blunt?  I wonder what the last hundred feet of boards run through that planer look like?

2) I believe clever people will soon be sharpening things like lathe bits on the Tormek with good success.  Would the original Tormek users have envisioned the efficient way turning tools are now sharpened on the Tormek or that drill bits can now be sharpened easily and well?

When switching wheels, is it necessary to retrue the stone each time?

Ken

This is an interesting post.  I hope more members will join in.

You may have accidentally stumbled upon an amazing discovery: an oil finish which does not need to be rejuvenated!

When you state that you are unable to remove all of the residue, are you actually removing some of the residue, or is none of it being removed?  If none is being removed, some sort of solvent might be needed.  However, if you are indeed removing some of the residue, keep going.

I like both Herman and Ionut's ideas.  I might substitute something like an old t shirt or towel for the wicking media.  I may be wrong on this; oily saw dust may not be so difficult to clean off the leather wheel.

On a lighter note,  I noticed something else in this post.  Ionut, with 50 posts, you have now achieved the status of "Jr. Member".  (congratulations!)....Herman, with 48 posts, you are not far behind.  Onward!  I have wondered if there are different status positions between "Newbie" and "Hero Member".  Does one become a "Senior Member" at 100 posts?

Sorry, I couldn't resist the curious imp in me.  Anyway, this is a good question and good answers.  I hope to read more of these.

Ken