Messages

Steve,

If I could design my ideal kitchen, wood countertops would be my first choice. I spend a lot of time doing food prep in the kitchen, and wood would create a pleasant work environment.   Linoleum and formica are all I have ever used.  They are OK, but wood has a softer feel,  Solid surface and granite seem cold to me.  (I might be tempted to use a granite counter top for lapping my planes, not good for the domestic tranquility!)

That stated, I would never attempt to make the counter top myself.  I could probably do the jointer and planer work.  However, that much maple is awfully heavy and bulky to scribe fit.

Do you have experience with this kind of work?

If not, I would suggest a first project.  Make a work island.  Building a butcher block top of maple say 24" x 48" would give you a feel for the work.

This would not be a "mock up".  It would be a useful food prep and serving area.  If you put it on large wheels, you could roll it to other areas as well.  Include a separate cutting board, perhaps 18" x 24", for the actual food chopping.

The experience of building a smaller work area would help you decide if you want to continue with the large counter or contact a local counter shop.

If you do decide to go ahead yourself, by the time you are through, you will be able to change and sharpen your jointer and planer knives like a GI can field strip his rifle.

Ken

I agree, Ionut.  However, I would guess 95% of the forum sharpen bevel edge chisels to the standard 25 degrees.

Ken

Steve,

I don't do movies.  However, the movies on this website can help you.  Watch the movie associated with the TTS-100.  It will show you how to set the distance from the stone to the universal support bar using the TTS-100.  (I suggest using the thirty degree setting.)

With the distance set, switch to the WM-200 setter.  Watch the film on the site associated with this jig.  Set the protrusion of the blade for the angle you want.  Do not change the distance of the bar; change the length of the protrusion to achieve the angle you want.

The back of the TTS-100 has three protrusion lengths for turning tools.  One of these may happen to fit the length you want for your blade.  If so, use it and note it for future reference.  If not, you may make a sharpie line on one of the lengths to correspond with the length you want.  Making a kine of a piece of cardboard or plywood would also work.  Be sure to label it.

When you switch wheels, just set the new wheel to the same TTS-100 setting as the original wheel.  The two point design of the TTS-100 automatically calibrates the universal support bar to the same angle.

The same method works with the leather honing wheel.

Good luck.

Ken 

In the Woodworking post ("a note to Steve", Jeff made this comment regarding changing the grinding wheel from the general wheel to the 4000 grit wheel:

"If the diameters are different (and they are) you will have to readjust the Universal Support height, but there's no reason to make any adjustments to the jig."

I have been investigating the possibility of using the TTS-100 for setting the height of the universal support bar when sharpening chisels and planes.  Its two point design automatically self corrects for wheel diameter differences.  When using just one wheel, this seemed overkill.  However, it might simplify switching back and forth between different grit (and diameter) wheels, and also with the honing wheel.

Here is how the procedure works"

1)  Using the TTS=100, set the universal support bar to the lower setting (the thirty degree setting).

2)  Set the length of the tool projection from the SE-76 to the correct angle, using either the Angle Master or black marker.  Note this length and make a gage block or cardboard marker.

3) After switching grinding wheels, set the new wheel with the TTS-100 just as you set the first wheel.  The two point alignment system should automatically realign the tool at the original projection length.

Ken

Good point, Gary.  I had a senior moment with the WM-200.  I didn't have much luck using the WM-200, until I set up my Tormek outside one day is very good light.  (My problem was my eyes and poor light , not the unit.)

Brett is right.  All you need to do is measure the stone.  Recheck every few months.

I do believe that the primary purpose of the label is regulatory for the electrical requirements and to indicate the product passed the inspection of whichever regulatory agency is involved.  It would be a good idea to pursue getting a replacement label.

Don't wait for the label to start using your Tormek.  Do watch the sharptools videos.  They are informative.

Ken

Fred,

Too bad the original owner was so careless.  I can understand your wanting to replace the sticker.

Page 34 of my copy of the owner's handbook (the section called Safety) shows the label.  In my edition it's for the T7. The label states the electrical requirements for the unit (either 230V 50 HZ for Europe or 115V 60HZ for North America.) it also has an arrow showing the direction of the wheel rotation.

It does indeed show a scale for the diameter of the grinding wheel.  However, on the next page is the label for the 1200 model, which does not have a scale.  Both models use the same accessories.  I assume the scale is to let the owner know when to replace the wheel.  My guess is that most owners never need to replace the first wheel.

The TTS-100 gage for setting turning tools cleverly auto corrects for variations in the wheel diameter.  For the rest of the jigs, I really don't think you need to be concerned about the diameter.

While you are restoring your unit, if the shaft is rusted, I would recommend replacing it with the new EZYlock shaft.  In addition to being stainless, it is an improvement which makes changing the wheel a snap.  (I replaced mine.  It shouldn't take more than about ten of fifteen minutes to change out the shaft.)

If you don't have a copy of the owner's manual, you should be able to register the serial number and download the latest version.  You will also be able to download new revisions as they occur.

Good luck with your "new" Tormek.  The "sweat equity" will help familiarize you with "the innerds" and give you a deeper appreciation of your fine tool.

Ken

Steve and Dan,

Congrats on your second stars.  (I hope Jeff ordered enough stars.)

Ken

Thanks, Dan.  I think it will work.  The pal design certainly puts the torque axis much closer to the screw head.  I think it would be more controllable, too.  It's on my short wish list for the next time L-V has a free shipping promotion.

Ken

Dan,

Do you happen to know if this screwdriver might also fit the tightening screw on the Eclipse (and clones) side clamping honing jigs?

Ken

Dan,

This isn't a link.  What I did was by adding a post on this old posting, it brought it up out of the dust and put it center stage.  I think it's a good post, and worth the time to read.

Ke

Steve,

I believe you mentioned you had spent forty years in construction. (Is my 60 year old memory right?)

If so, your time correcting the "footer problem" (not grinding the chisel square) will be very spent.  There have been several posts about being out of square.

Enjoy your new sharpening gear.  Keep us posted.

Ken

Well done (and photographed), Ionut.

Ken

Brett,

Nice post, and nice sharpening job.  Good photographs, too.  The original reminded me of some of the telephone splicer's knives I've seen over the years with "creative" sharpening.

Thanks for the follow through.  Do post the "verdict" from the teacher.

Ken

Steve,
You mention the Shapton products.  I have some concerns regarding them.  They may be very fine products; I don't doubt that.

However, I notice that Lie-Nielsen no longer sells them.  (They sell DMT diamond plates and Norton water stones.)

Also, there are at least two different lines of Shapton stones for different steels, and, I believe, at least three generations. Too many unknowns to make an informed decision.  I would back away until I had a good handle on the situation.

From my working past, I never liked radical measures until I had seen moderate measures fail.  I would put  acquiring other sharpening products on the back burner until you have become quite proficient with your Tormek.  At that point, if the results do not satisfy you in some areas, look into other options.

Ionut has found a method which allows him to quickly sharpen his tools to a very high level and return to what he really loves, woodworking.

Ken

I was poking around in the archives and found this.  It seemed worth being read more often.

Ken