Messages

I would lean, like Steve, in the direction of the O1.  Plan to do minor touch ups more frequently rather than sharpen.

Eventually, Steve, you will probably have both blades (and more!) for the low angle jack plane.

Do keep us posted both with the project and the plane.

Good luck.

Ken

I recently grumbled about the lack of good instructions with the EZYlock shaft.  The instructions provided with the DBS-22 are much better.  In fact, the DBS-22 seems like a class act start to finish.

Ken

Matt,

I just bought my DBS-22 last Friday.  Anything beyond what won't fit would be just a guess on my part.

The jig looks like a very solid product.  I think you would like it for your other bits. 

My gut feeling is the SB-250 stone would be good for high speed bits and carbide tip touch ups.  (It's the next thing on my radar.)

Keep us posted.

Ken

ps, The two videos I mentioned in my last post really are worth your time to view.  Both are thorough.

Matt,

Good question.  The vise part which holds the shaft of the drill bit will only handle up to 22mm (Hence, the "22" in DBS-22)  That's about 7/8".  The protrusion in front is only one inch.  Unless you bit is half inch almost of the length, it won't work with the jig.

If you google "Tormek drill videos" you will find a couple very good videos.  One is "Stu's Shack and I don't remember the name of the other.  Both are lengthy and will give you a good look at the jig in action.

Ken

Steve,

Do you presently have any planes? 

If not, you might consider building a kit as needed.

If you already do have some planes, the question becomes what would be a strategic upgrade in the areas most beneficial.

In my case, although the Lie-Nielsens and Veritas planes look tempting, most would be nicer duplicates (or near duplicates functionally) of what I already have.

Be sure to read the recent article in Fine Woodworking by Chris Becksvoort about the bevel up jack plane.

Ken

"If it takes five seconds to change a wheel, what's the logic of having a machine for each wheel?
Steve".........Good point, Steve.

TB,thanks for your thoughts on the 4000 stone.


Ken

"What kind of planes do you like? Japanese look like fun but a little fussy in the adjustment. Lie-Nielsen cost $510 for the jointing plane with the corrugated sole. I'd have to get a job at Wal Mart to afford that kind tool. Whata ya think?
Steve"

Steve,

For $510 planes, I would suggest you send your resumé to Goldman Sachs instead of Wal-Mart.

My three main bench planes are 1909 vintage Bedrocks.  They are a lucky find from when I was young and had no idea of what they are.  I am the second owner.

In modern planes, being a traditionalist, I generally favor the Lie-Nielsens.  However, Lee Valley makes an intriguing looking bevel up jointer with a custom designed fence for it. The price for the plane is $275.  Fence is $38.  It is available with different blades.  It looks like it might be just the ticket for your butcher block job.

Ken

ps One nice thing about this kind of a job is that you get to enjoy it every day.  That's a lot of pleasure in the results of your labor.

Joe,

My T7 was just before the EZYlock.  I had no problems with the old shaft, but decided to upgrade.  I really like the new EZYlock.  It does make changing the wheel a snap.

I only have the one wheel at this point.  I am considering adding wheels in the future.  While ideally it would be nice to have separate machines for each wheel, my retirement amateur shop would be very adequately served with a single machine.  Space is as  much a consideration as cost.

If I did a lot more work, or did it professionally, separate machines would be the cat's meow. I think Ionut's method is really slick.  (A second machine still tempts me.)

Ken (also 1950)

ps, Steve,

Don't sell you Civil War era block plane.  A fellow named Leonard Bailey has been pushing metal planes.  It's just a fad.  Stick with the real wooden planes.

Ken

Nothing personal, Steve, but I hate ebay snipers!!!!  I do take some pleasure when I am sniped, but the sniper pays a very high price, of at least making the so and so pay!

Call me old fashioned.....Ken

Good post, TB.

Your "shoeshine" method reminds me of watching Kelly Mehler round his square tenons to fit router cut mortises--fast and effective.

Ken

Steve,

Since we are lean on youth, I would suggest being very sharp with the block plane!

Ken

ps Chris Schwarz's Plane book and Brian Burns, Double Bevel book might be useful to you at this time.  I recommend both.

Steve,

Based on your most recent post, I change my hesitation.  Go for it!

Ken

tb,

Patience is a virtue.  Hang in there.  I have found ebay to be an inefficient market.

Ken

Steve,

If I could design my ideal kitchen, wood countertops would be my first choice. I spend a lot of time doing food prep in the kitchen, and wood would create a pleasant work environment.   Linoleum and formica are all I have ever used.  They are OK, but wood has a softer feel,  Solid surface and granite seem cold to me.  (I might be tempted to use a granite counter top for lapping my planes, not good for the domestic tranquility!)

That stated, I would never attempt to make the counter top myself.  I could probably do the jointer and planer work.  However, that much maple is awfully heavy and bulky to scribe fit.

Do you have experience with this kind of work?

If not, I would suggest a first project.  Make a work island.  Building a butcher block top of maple say 24" x 48" would give you a feel for the work.

This would not be a "mock up".  It would be a useful food prep and serving area.  If you put it on large wheels, you could roll it to other areas as well.  Include a separate cutting board, perhaps 18" x 24", for the actual food chopping.

The experience of building a smaller work area would help you decide if you want to continue with the large counter or contact a local counter shop.

If you do decide to go ahead yourself, by the time you are through, you will be able to change and sharpen your jointer and planer knives like a GI can field strip his rifle.

Ken