Messages

It may be heresy on this forum, however, I just sharpen the gullets.  I use a dowel covered with self stick abrasive.  It's easy to eyeball.  Your sharpener would probably work at least as well, and maybe better.  I don't grind the flat side at all.

Herman makes a good point about using the black marker.  I would recommend just turning the wheel by hand when using the black marker.  That's enough to indicate whether the angle is set right or not.

Ken

I have a DBX-22 and have used it successfully.  It takes some practice and "fiddling".  It does a very nice job, but I haven't gotten to the skill level where I can "set it and forget it". 

I recommend sneaking up on grinding to match the edges.  Once you get the edges right, it makes  very impressive edges.

Good luck, and keep us posted.

Ken

ps I find the bits closer to 10mm easier to learn with.

Welcome, Frank.

sharptoolsusa.com is the US distributor of Tormek parts.  I have purchased parts from them and recommend them.  Only the T7 parts are shown on the website, however, the website specifically states they also carry parts for the other models.

Good luck and do keep us posted.

ken

Grepper,

What kind of cutting board are you using? I use wood, which is more forgiving on the knife edges.

Ken

Welcome to the forum, Ellis.

I wouls suggest you forego using the secondary bevel technique with your new Tormek.  Learn to use the Tormek with the recommended coarse grind, fine grind, and leather honing wheel with a single bevel.

Once you are very proficient with this method you will be able to decide if you prefer the single bevel honing wheel method or finishing off your tools with fine stones and a double bevel.  The answer may be "it depends".  Give yourself the skill required to make an intelligent choice based on proficiency with both methods.

The hollow grind effect is less of a factor with ten inch wheels.  I would be more concerned with whether you are using the chisel being struck with a mallet or being pushed by hand.  Also how hard the wood is.

Keep your wheel refreshed frequently with the stone grader.

Spend some time really getting to know the Tormek and one chisel.  Three quarter inch more or less is a good learning tool.  It is less steel to flatten and polish (the back) and wide enough to fit easily in the jig.  Really learning one simple chisel will teach you a lot about the Tormek.

Keep us posted.

Ken

Welcome to the forum, Greg.

Considering a new motor would cost $311, I would say a new starting capacitor would be a good investment.  You may be able to install it yourself.  If not, it should be a quick and easy job for a motor repair shop. 

Being able to run in either direction reminds me of a "one lunger" (a boat with a single cylinder motor, which ran in reverse by starting the motor in the opposite direction..

Ken

Paul,

Welcome to the forum. Just a gut feeling:  I would purchase a tube of Tormek honing compound and have a go with a piece of steel or a non prime tool.  That might get some or most of the crud off the leather wheel.  Don't be tight with the compound.  If, by chance, this doesn't work after several tries, you aren't out anything.  If it did work, you have saved the sixty bucks for a new wheel.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Ken

Interesting idea,Sergio, however, I think you might be frustrated by the 90rpm grinding speed of the Tormek.

If you can fit your CBN wheel on your Tormek, I would suggest giving it a try.  (please post the results)  The same slow RPM which might frustrate you will also make it safer to try.

I read about a new two wheel grinder recently.  It had a DC motor with variable speed from 400 to 4000 RPM.  It had turned metal wheels with CBN impregnated.  It also worked directly with the Tormek jigs.  It looked like a fine dry grinder; it also cost $1200.

Have you looked into a mister for you Baldor?

Ken

Jeff,

You should be justifiably proud of the fine work you have done making your videos.  I had the impression you had intended to do more.  I hope those plans may be realized some day.

You videos are not only useful for prospective and new Tormek owners, they are also very good "quick refreshers" for somewhat out of practice old users.

Ken

Elroy,

Back to your original post: I wouldn't let the issue with the honing wheel keep you from enjoying your new Tormek.  In my opinion, the honing wheel is an added bonus.  The main function of the Tormek is sharpening.  It does this very well with no danger of overheating the steel.  The last bit of polishing, whether on the leather honing wheel, a leather strop or a fine stone, is the easy part of the work.  The manual labor part of sharpening is where the Tormek excels. 

By all means, get sharpening. 

Ken

Elroy,

Welcome to the Forum.  I would suggest you write a diplomatic letter of complaint to Tormek in Sweden.  The handbook may cover how to correct the situation, and, in fact, it is a probably a minor issue.  However, you did not purchase a Tormek "kit" to be finished by the customer or a discounted refurbished unit.  I am certainly a fan of Tormek quality and design.  However, I don't think your unit should have left the factory with a bump on the honing wheel.  It should be an easy thing for a factory quality inspector to identify and correct.  If the remedy is printed in the handbook it is too common a problem. The factory could have remedied the situation as easily as they expect you to do. You paid full price; you should get a first class unit.

If you do write them, please post the results on the forum.  I hope they rise to the occasion.

Good luck.

Ken

Why wouldn't the Tormek jigs work with the multi tool?

A support bar would have to be placed where the jigs could be used with the belt direction moving away from the tool being ground to prevent ruining the belt. 

If the multi tool was mounted horizontally, the support bar would have to be in the equivalent of the vertical position.  Some shimming might be necessary to get the bar to a workable height.

All this would require some thought.  However, it shouldn't be all that difficult, expensive or time consuming. 

I have an old (ancient?) Dayton belt grinder revived from a neighbor's garage sale for twenty five dollars.  it is missing the disk sander parts and needed new pulleys, belt and wiring.  I put another thirty dollars in pulleys and belt.  I had a usable cord on hand.  It is a usable and useful tool now.  It is nowhere near being in the same league as the multi tool, however, it does the job for me.  If I did not have this, I would look very seriously at a multi tool.  It seems a fine adjunct to the Tormek.  With the variety of belt grits available, the tool is quite versatile.

Ken

We will have to refer this to our Rob, our Resident Detective Chief Inspector  of the Yorkshire Vocabulary Constabulary.........

Ken

Albion, welcome.

I believe the best way to honor our elders and their tools is to keep them razor sharp and make our hands skilled.  The Tormek and practice make a good combination.

Ken

I recently read about a new design dry grinder from a Canadian company.  (sorry, I don't remember the name)  It has a variable speed DC motor with speeds from 400 to 4000 rpm.  It apparently runs quite smoothly.  It has steel wheels with some kind of boron compound inset.  It's almost as hard as diamond, but the binder is not effected by heat.  And, it is compatible with the Tormek jigs.  The one downside is cost, around twelve hundred dollars.

However, combining a Tormek wet grinder with one of these would be an ideal set up.  Superb tools, each doing its preferred function.

Ken