Messages

I noticed the video did not include sharpening a machete with the SVM-00 like Herman did. I can see different uses for each jig.

Ken

Excellent post, Ionut.  Innovative and thorough; typical of the high caliber I would expect from you.

John, you have received an answer from the forum member I referred to as the only one I know of who happily and successfully uses the Japanese waterstone.

Ken

Well done, Herman.

Ken

Herman, I suspect we all get comfortable with whatever we happen to have. ( At  least those of us wise enough not to be on a continual buying quest.)

I don't think it matters whether a knife is stamped or forged if it works for us.  My post was to encourage people to learn about different bevel angles, not different knives.  Maybe the question of stamped versus forged would be an interesting thesis topic.

By the way, do we list our new Hero status before or after our non Tormek academic credentials?

Ken

John,

Don't get discouraged.  As strong as the Swedish economy is, you may look back on this and be amazed you bought the SJ-250 for only 220 (sorry, this Yank doesn't know how to type the pound sterling sign).

Keep thinking and doing.

Herman, I don't think adjusting the USB for differences I wheel diameter is actually a big project.  When I first bought my Tormek, I had a terrible time using the angle master.  After i redesigned and "improved" it, I tried using it in good light and found out that the standard approach as shown by Jeff in the videos really works quite well.

Ken

Herman,

The numbers are the jig length in millimeters.  DBS-22 will handle bits up to 22 millimeters (or 7/8" for us folks on the "English" system).  The 45 of the knife jig is the holding part is 45mm wide.  The SVD-110 is 110 millimeters wide (the factory ones, mine are different, now.)  I think the scissors jig table is 150mm wide.  Etc.

I don't know about the SV (Swedish? or referring to old Viking gods?)

Ken

The only knives I have used for the past twenty three years are a set of Henckel five star knives.  I found this interesting from Elden's post:

" I know how to hone, but not how to sharpen.  I've been reading the board all morning and I know you guys frown upon knife sets, but I can't help it, that's what I want.  This will be in a contemporary home, so while obviously function of the knives is most important, decor is as well.  My present set is a forged set of JA Henkels that I got from Costco as a housewarming present (not the same as, but comparable to the set they have on their website now for ~$200).  I feel I'm outgrowing these knives and desire something better. "

I cannot honestly speak about the guy's set of Henckel knives.  I know Henckel makes several grades of knives.  My set (as I remember) came with 8" chef's;  6" slicing; 4" paring; and a steel.  It may have included the 8" bread knife and/or the boning knife.  My memory is fuzzy.  I added a second paring knife and an 8" slicer, both of which see occasional use.  The basic knives see daily use.

Stamped of forged?  Mine are forged, and I have no experience with stamped.  Hopefully others have and can chime it.  I do like the added weight of the forged chef's knife.  I use it for even small work like chopping nuts.  The extra heft and gravity seem to make the job go easier.

I have two issues with the quoted person:  Unless he bought a really junky grade of Henckel knives, I cannot imagine "outgrowing them"  And, changing knives to fit the decor?.......... not this old Yankee.

So, stamped or forged? I would say whichever you plan to use.  The exercise is to become familiar with the cutting and edge retention of different edge angles with whatever knives you use.

Ken

Welcome again, John.

My primary reason for purchasing a Tormek was for the grinding function. I had just prepared several chisels for a hand cut dovetail class using water stones.  They needed a lot of work flattening and polishing the backs, let alone the bevel side.  My older hands were quite soar.  The Tormek seemed like a better way than hurting my hands.  It still is.

I also liked the idea of not overheating any more edges with the dry grinder and having my chisels a bit more square.  (i'm sure you have never encountered these problems.

I'm afraid you won't get many replies about the 4000 grit wheel. It's a fairly new accessory, and, shall we say, not terribly underpriced.  I doubt many of us actually have one.

I happen to have bought one.  It was a sale situation at my local dealer. As it was on my list of future hopefuls, I bought it.  It sits pristinely in the box.

I know only one member of the forum who uses the 4000 grit water stone happily and successfully. He uses it in a separate Tormek machine than his regular wheel.  (You really didn't want to hear this, did you?)  In my opinion, that's the way to really use this fine accessory well.

The black stone, which I have used, is a stand alone stone for its functions.  For high speed steel turning tools, drill bits, planer/jointer blades; it does the whole job.  No need to switch back and forth with the regular wheel. Having a separate machine is a lot less pressing with the black stone.

The Japanese wheel is for polishing, just like the 4000, 8000, or higher water stones, diamond powder or "stones", or Arkansas stones.  To use it on a chisel, you first go through the coarse and fine gradings on the regular wheel.  then, if you have only one machine, you must change wheels.

If you are sharpening several blades, you could do all the general wheel work first, and change wheels only once.

Frankly, I find either of those choices more complicated than using an 8000 grit water stone with the blade in a jig set for a slight micro bevel.

I do plan to add a second Tormek unit someday for the 4000 grit wheel.  Until then, unless a special situation arises where I have a lot of polishing to do, the SJ wheel will probably remain in waiting.

I hope you hear from other members who have actually used the 4000 grit stone. Good luck with your new SJ.

Ken

I have a suggestion for those curious about the effects of various knife angles:  Purchase two Forscher chef's knives.  Those are the ones recommended by Jeff as holding up well during his demos and being reasonably priced.

Sharped each carefully on your Tormek using either the Tormek of forum knife jig, your choice.  UUSe the same jig for both knives.  Sharpen one at the recommended twenty degrees for each bevel (total angle forty degrees). Sharpen the second knife at fifteen degrees for each bevel (total angle thirty degrees).

Use these two knives in your day to day cooking. Try to give each knife half of each task, as equally as possible.

This exercise will tell you at least two things: 1) Which knife angle seems to cut more easily and 2) which angle wil retain its sharpness longer.

Both are valuable parts of educating a sharpener.  The same exercise would be equally valuable with a chisel.

Ken

Good thoughts, Rob.

Leonard Lee was a Canadian government worker who started a very small tool business over a kitchen table conversation with Gary Chan, the owner of Garrett Wade.  Fast forwarding, he has turned over the day to day operations of that business, Lee Valley (and the manufacturing arm, Veritas) to his very capable son, Robin.  His semi "retirement" job is running a related business he established designing and manufacturing specialized surgical instruments.   He grew up on a farm in western Canada, and is no stranger to using sharp tools including azes.  He has a wealth of tool knowledge. I also find his dry and candid humor refreshing.  (Enjoy it in the DVD on sharpening he did sold by Lee Valley.  It, and his fine book should be part of all of our personal libraries.)

Another off shoot of Garrett Wade is Thomas Lie-Nielsen.  He was working in the sales department of Garrett Wade when a favorite plane was discontinued.  He moved back to Maine and set up shop in a converted chicken coop to manufacture that plane.  The rest is history.  By the way, his sharpening book should also be part of our libraries.  (I am embarrassed to admit that although I have read it, I have not yet purchased my own reference copy.) 

Ron Hock is a knife and blade maker of lifelong experience. He has been an early pioneer in premium replacement blades for planes and scrapers.  His book is a must have for us.  He writes an interesting and informative blog.

Lie-Nielsen has produced quite good you tubes demonstrating use and sharpening of their tools.  So have Lee Valley and Ron Hock.  All are well worth our time in exploring.

Jeff Farris certainly needs no introduction here.  While most of us are various levels of beginner to intermediate in some areas, Jeff has been demonstrating and trouble shooting the Tormek for many years.  While some of us (myself included) have fairly solid educations in parts of this work,  Jeff is a long time veteran of many campaigns in the trenches.  We are most fortunate to have him and his expertise.

I am certain there is much expertise and experience at Tormek.  Some of that I have seen and some I take on faith.  I would like to see more training material from Tormek.  The new you tubes are a definite step in the right direction.  There is room (and a need) to grow.

I also believe there is value in this forum.  That value will continue to be directly related to our desire to expand our knowledge and proficiency.

I am positive about the future.

Ken

A good illustration of the need for different blade angles in a kitchen is the recent post about the knife missing a large hunk of the blade due to using it to cut a lobster. (The choice of knife might have been done more carefully as well.)

A Sawzall blade which routinely had to cut through nails as well as wood would be a poor choice for cutting dovetails.  Likewise a dovetail saw would be easily destroyed by a nail infested 2x4.

My Chinese cleaver used for slicing vegetables can and should be sharpened to a different angle than the heavier chopping cleaver of a more carnivorous  person.  Vegetables are boneless.

A paring chisel should be ground to a finer bevel than a dovetail or mortising chisel which is hit with a mallet.

Is the exact angle critical?  I think we live in a world of tolerance ranges.  If I needed a chisel for paring in a size that I only had one sharpened for dovetail chopping, I would use it.  Being very sharp covers a multitude of sins.  It might not be the ideal tool, but it would work.

One of the joys of skillful sharpening is the ability to adapt edges to specific uses.  We can grind a knife or chisel specifically for very light, intricate paring.  We can grind the same tool for more utilitarian use.  A good chef or woodworker would want that flexibility.

I believe a "compleat" sharpener also uses the edges he creates and maintains.  Whether the blade is a chef's knife, chisel or for a lawn mower, the person who sharpens that blade should have a working knowledge of how the tool behaves under different degrees of sharpness.  The true test of a sharp kitchen knife is on the cutting board, cutting whatever the intended use is.

I am one of the forum who regularly proclaims the value of being able to sharpen a simple chisel edge.  That is an important foundation block in sharpening.  I would not minimize it.  However, once the basics become solid, there is a whole range of options to adapt the tool to the job and the individual worker.  I believe both the satisfaction of doing basic work well and the creativity of choices add to the satisfaction of the sharpener.

Ken 

Congrats, Herman on being the first hero member from Texas!

Welcome to the "club".

Ken

Rob, check out Rob Cosman's videos.  He is definitely a salesman, but his technique and products are very solid.

Ken

Ionut's recommendation of Lee Valley is a very good one.  Lee Valley is a very reputable place and has some interesting and unusual things as well as the standard fare.  (They often offer special closeouts at very nice prices.)  I have been a very satisfied customer for many years.   About once a quarter, they advertise free shipping for orders over forty dollars US.

Ken

Herman, home shop machinists purchase small quantities of metal and plastics.  A copy of Home Shop Machinist magazine should have adds for these places.

Ken