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[Minus the security of the new product guarantee)Frankly, that seems too high of a price to me.]

Scott, for $550 plus perhaps another 50 for shipping, you would be getting the Tormek and some jigs for within 40 of the price of the new unit. (free shipping) Minus the security of the new product guarantee)Frankly, that seems too high of a price to me.

The kits do offer a saving.  However, they include some items you may or may not need.  Ex: the hand tool kit includes the axe and long knife jigs.  You would know best which of the turning jigs you really need,  at least at first.

If i was a seller and the buyer wanted to photograph my driver's license or as a stranger, come to my house, I would tell him to shop elsewhere.  I would recommend you buy new and avoid  the risks.

Ken

I recently completed an on again off again project lasting several years.  I inherited a very cupped Indian stone from my grandfather.  Over the years, I have spend an hour with 90 grit carborundum powder; at least a couple hours with wet and dry paper; and finally about an hour with a Dia flat lapping plate.  It is finally flat.  I would not have bothered without the sentimental value.  Since I began using my Tormek, the oil stones get very little use.

The moral of this story is, regardless of whether you use oilstones, waterstones, or a Tormek, keep the stone surface regularly dressed and flat.

Ken

Welcome to the forum, Scott.  And, welcome back, Rob.

Scott, just how far away are these two sellers from you?  Given the possibility of saving the cost of shipping, if you can drive there and back in a day, I would suggest driving.

The almost new unit with the hand tools jigs is not really a bargain if you do not plan to use them.  I think I would narrow the field to either one of the used units with the gouge jig or a new unit with either the gouge jig or the turner's kit.

When you do the pros and cons between used and new, make sure the used units have the stone grader and diamond dresser.  Also, the new unit, in addition to the new warrantee, will come with the EZYlock shaft, the latest universal support bar (with micro adjust) and the enhanced water trough.  You probably wouldn't miss most of the minor improvements, but will need the grader and diamond dresser.

If you would be ordering a new unit, they are generally available with free shipping.  The piece of mind with the warrantee is worth being in the pro side of your consideration.

Rob is much more of a turner than most of us, myself included.

Good luck and keep us posted, either with your decision or more questions.

Ken

If you guys are concerned about wearing out the SG 250, consider switching to oilstones.  I have a couple of Norton combination India stones which belonged to my grandfathers.  These remarkable stones have outlasted two generation of my family, and will most probably out last me as well.  They don't cut very fast, but their staying power is remarkable!

On a more serious note, I would suggest actively watching for sales at Tormek dealers and buying ahead if the price is good.  Kudos for having built up such a thriving business!

Ken

I have no idea of the math involved.  However, I do wonder what condition your blades are in before you sharpen them.  I'm being curious, not critical.  If you sharpen your tools when they just begin to lose sharpness, you shouldn't need to remove much metal.  It should be more of a refresh operation than a major grinding.

I am also surprised that all of your blades need to be resharpened at the same time.  I am not a very active woodworker.  In my case, only a few chisels might need to be refreshed after cutting some dovetails.  Perhaps two or three planes might need the same refreshing.  Some of my rarely used chisels haven't needed to be sharpened in years.

Perhaps you might share some more of your sharpening situation.

Keep us posted.

Ken

Welcome, staysharp and picoviolin.  I second Herman's positive thoughts.  Using a nagura stone never occured to me.  What an intriguing idea!  I also like the idea of grading with different diamond hones. 

Please keep us posted.

Ken

Welcome, Jim.  Be sure to watch the videos on the Tormek website.  I believe the Tormek jigs for turning tools are some of Tormek's best designed tools. I think the video about the Irish turneris outstanding.

Making money is another matter.  If you happen to live anywhere near Cleveland, Ohio, I would suggest you contact Steve Bottorff.  He teaches weekend one on one classes in knife sharpening.  Part of the training is being his apprentice for a day at the farmers market.  This would be valuable "in the trenches" experience.  My only contact with him was purchasing his book.  My impression is he seems like a square shooter.  If you live far from Cleveland, he might be able to recommend someone in your area.

My point is suggesting investing in practical knowledgd before investing in tooling.

Best of luck with this and please keep us posted.

Ken

Welcome.  The easy lock nut has a left hand thread.  Does that do it for you?

Keep us posted.

Ken

Make sure that very sharp knife doesn't roll off the counter and land point first on the wife's new kitchen floor........ It was VERY sharp. (This happened to me.)

Ken

Thinking about the DBS-22:

I have an old Belsaw key cutting machine.  The depth of cut is controlled by a micrometer head. The threads on the depth of cut adjusting screw on the DBS are .5 millimeter, or roughly .020.  The standard threads on most micrometers are 40 TPI, or .025.

With that in mind, using a bit large enough to easily see, we should be able to get a rough idea of how much of the primary facet is removed from adding just a partial turn beyond the initial contact.  I'm sure there is some trig to support this more exactly, but a good eyeball would put is in the ball park.

I will do some experimenting with this the next time I sharpen drill bits.  In the meantime, I thought I would throw out the idea to the forum.

Ken

Welcome.  I would go with the Ford Engine Blue color.  I suppose it is natural to regard an expensive object like the Tormek as precious.  I was the same way.  Eventually it evolved from precious to useful.  Useful is not as pristine as precious, but it is a lot more practical and fun.  Keep it reasonably clean.  Don't leave the water bath full between sessions.  Use your Tormek.  Should you reach the point where you wear out a wheel, your Tormek will be much more useful because of your experience.

Enjoy and keep posting.

Ken

I have found Alan Holtham's DBS-22 video useful.  My one suggestion would be more concentration on aligning the primary facet leading edges would be useful.  I realize that no company wants to leave an impression that a product is difficult to use.  The DBS-22 is not difficult to use, however, it does take some practice.  The results are worth the effort.

Ken

Marccus,

The videos are Tormek advertisements.  However, they are also informativeis  and interesting.  They are located on the main Tormek.com site.  The "forum" button is located on the left side of the page; the videos are on the right. The first video, featyring an Irish turner, shows the real world effective simplicity of the Tormek touch and turn technique.

Ken

Be sure to enjoy the recently posted videos on this Tormek website.  Well done, and very interesting, Tormek!

Ken

Cleancut, I am winging this answer, as I have not used my DBS-22 in a while.  That stated, I believe you may have removed too much with the primary facet grind.  Try removing enough with the secondary grind setting to completely remove the primary facets.  Then set up to primary and proceed very slowly.  Check frequently.  Sneak up on matching the facet lines.  Start with barely removing any primary facet metal.  Note where the lines are.  Then set the adjustment to do just a little more.  Your lines should be approaching each other.  Go slowly.

This may seem tedious, however, once you get the hang of it, it will go faster.  And, you will like those crisp four facet edges.

Keep posting.

Ken