Messages

Mike, thanks for your thoughts.

I don't think Tormek has really addressed this issue.  That may be because the interchangeable wheels are a fairly new addition to the system.  And/or because many of the specialized wheel users may not change wheels very often.  For example, a turner using high speed steel tools might just leave the SB wheel on the machine. A carver might just leave the SJ wheel in place and "refresh" sharpen often.

Like you, I am leaning toward vertical storage.  I know it's overkill, however, I happen to have the older Tormek water trough and stainless steel shaft in my Tormek accessories/spare parts box.  I don't remember if the EZYlock shaft replacement kit included a new washer or not.  The stainless nut would certainly work with a hardware store stainless metric bolt.  (I'm not losing my memory; my Tormek is 150 miles away from my computer.  I'm in the process of moving.) A half inch bolt would work fine, too. The water trough is perfectly sized, although part of a quart plastic bottle or something similar recycled from the kitchen would work just as well.  Changing wheels would mean changing the water in the trough.  A very short "spin cycle" without water should mostly dry out the wheel.

I don't think I would be doing much "on the fly" changing between the standard wheel and the SB.  Sharpening my jointer or Lion trimmer blades is more of a separate activity. Likewise with sharpening a dozen drill bits.  If I needed to touch up one drill bit mid project, I don't think I would bother changing the wheel.

The SJ wheel was a very recent purchase at a rare bargain price.  Time will tell if it replaces my old fine grit water stones. I don't think I would change wheels mid project to resharpen a single chisel.  The leather honing wheel seems more efficient for that.  I would be more apt to change to the SJ wheel after sharpening several chisels and perhaps a couple plane blades.  This would be an end of the day or end of the project chore.  I set the wheel distance and vary the blade projection to change bevel angles.  I would sharpen all the blades with the regular wheel before switching wheels for honing.

Ken

Welcome, Tony.

I remember when I bought my Milwaukee Sawzall (around 1993).  What a useful tool!  I still have it and wouldn't part with it. It has cut everything from tree branches to a slot for the circuit breaker box wiring to an old antenna tower.

The Tormek is turning out to be a very useful keeper as well.  I'm pleased you are having such good success with knife sharpening.  Of all the kitchen "gear" I have bought over the years (Kitchenaid, Cuisinart, etc), my knives and large cutting board are the day in and day out troopers.  I remember an old quote from James Beard stating his belief in taking care of one's knives, that they were at least as valuable as the silver.

Keep us posted on your knife sharpening journey.

Ken

When I get settled into my new workshop, I plan to build a work station for my Tormek.  I have the DVD and measured drawing for Norm Abram's design.  I plan to use that as a starting point.

Norm's design was made before multiple grinding wheels were available.  I have the SB and SJ wheels.  I am wondering how they should be stored in the work station.  Horizontally or vertically?  Should any procedures be followed to allow them to dry after use?

Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

Ken

Welcome, Tom.

Be sure to watch the videos on sharptoolsusa.com.  Jeff, our moderator, does an excellent job of explaining how to get up and running.

Next, my standard (and by now probably boring to the rest of the forum) advice:  Start with a very simple tool like a mid size chisel, about 3/5"(correction 3/4") or 18 mm.  Exact size is not important.  Practice on it until you are starting to feel fluent and confident.

Best of luck, and keep us posted.

Ken

I just received my replacement Tormek.  As I posted earlier, my T-7 was stolen during a burglary.  The thief stole the Tormek unit itself, but not my diamond truing tool, universal Support Bar, stone grader,water trough or SE-76.  The loss was not covered by insurance (no content coverage on a vacant dwelling during a move).

I asked a knowledgeable person I trust for advice.  He told me to contact Hanns at Advanced Machinery.  (My local dealer was not interested in selling an unadorned T-7.) Hanns treated me right.  My new T-7 arrived earlier this week.  It has the SE-76 and honing compound.  It does not have the universal support bar, diamond tool or stone grader.

The discounted unit included the free RB-180 and free shipping.

I can use the honing compound.  Also, I will experiment with sharpening two chisels at a time. (Actually I can do three, as Ionut helped me procure one of the older model jigs for sharpening mortising chisels.)

Unfortunately, I do not believe my original T-7 will ever be recovered.  On the off chance it is, I will use one unit with my SJ 250 wheel. 

So, thanks, knowledgeable one, and thanks, Hanns, for the fine service.

Ken

I read on another forum that any Tormek unit purchased in June will include a free RB-180.  Can anyone confirm that?

Ken

Good thought, Jeff.  It was nice to know I had more than one way to remove the screws.  As it turned out, the Sears #2 Phillips to 3?8" square drive worked very well.  I carefully loosened the screws by applying gentle but firm torque with a non ratcheting handle.  Then the ratchet did the rest. NO batteries required.

I plan to rehang the cabinets in my workshop.  I will pre-drill screw holes, and use some paraffin on the threads.  I would guess it's even money as to whether I will eventually relocate the cabinets.  I want to be kind the the next guy, as it will most likely be me.

I also plan to place a ledger strip beneath the cabinets.  This strip will hold them in place while I am securing them, and add a lot of strength.  In a workshop they may be loaded heavily.  The extra support will be useful.

Thanks for your reply, Jeff.

Ken

I want to move two upper cabinets from my laundry room to the basement.  Each cabinet is secured to the wall with three Phillips head screws.  My standard Phillips screwdriver won't budge them.  My 18 volt drill/driver removed one part way, while partially destroying the screw head.

I needed a good "plan B".

I tried Lowe's and Home Depot without success.  Finally I tried Sears.  I wanted a Phillips #2 screwdriver on the front and a 3/8" square drive for a socket wrench on the back end.  Sears carries them.  It should give me the leverage to remove the screws without camming them out.

Ken

I don't believe that would be a problem.  Before I bought one of these, I used a single point industrial diamond.  I find the strip easier to use, especially if the wheel is dressed with a crown instead of flat.

150 seems like a very fine grit to me.  My dry grinder doesn't get much use since I bought the Tormek.  (It may, if I have sharpening to do before I get to replace my stolen unit.)  I use an 80 grit white wheel and (the newer wheel) a 46 grit Norton X3. I really like the 46 grit wheel.  It grinds quickly and coolly.  The Tormek is much safer for things like chisels and plane blades.  When I had several decades of mushroomed head on a splitting wedge to remove, the X3 really shone.  not much danger of overheating that hunk of steel.

Ken

I have used this with good results.  It's inexpensive, and does the job well.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=55075&cat=1,43072,43080&ap=1

Ken

I will add it to my order.  Thanks, guys.

Ken

George,
I wouldn't give up on repairing the motor quite yet.  There are tools called "Easy Outs".  You would drill small holes in the Phillips screws and thread these into the holes.  They have left hand threads.  Once they seat, they are supposed to back out the screws.  I would talk to a motor repait shop before trying it.

Either way, you have a working Tormek. 

Best of luck with your Tormek; it may work for many years, despite being noisy.

Ken

I am considering adding adding one of these when I order my replacement Tormek unit.  Has anyone on the forum had a chance to actually use one?

Ken

The Sandflex blocks are so useful.  I've used them for years, and would recommend everyone have a set of three.  They restore metal tool surfaces whenever there is a starting bit of rust or stain.  They last a very long time and are not expensive.

Clever application, Mike,

Ken

No other chisel users on the forum?