Messages

I've been thinking of motorizing my TT-50 truing tool.  The thinking is that it would allow it to run slower (I sometimes get impatient and run it too fast). It would make it run consistently, and I can enjoy a cup of coffee whilst it runs ("Look ma, no hands!").

Rich

The older truing tool seemed to me to be more difficult to control.   Before moving to the new tool, I was reluctant to true the wheel mainly as I was never able to master the old tool, and thusly the grinding wheel never got a smooth finish.  I disliked the old one so much that I gave it to the Tormek historian (Ken Schroeder).  Haven't heard if he has tried it or not.

With the new one (TT-50), it is very easy to take controlled, light, and even strokes.  It leaves the stone flat with very light truing ridges that can easily be cleaned up with the stone grader.  But I didn't realize the difference until I got the new one. 

If you have an older truing tool and want to upgrade, you can get the new one without the diamond tip (TT-50U vs. TT-50), and transfer the diamond tip from the older tool.  That will save you $20-25.  (And indeed, it is the route I took).

Oh, and by the way, I can't imagine truing my Japanese wheel with the older tool !!

Good luck,
Rich

I upgraded my truing tool and can tell you the new one works quite a bit better. 

I'm interested in understanding more about how lasers get used in sharpening on the Tormek.

• what type of laser do you use ?


• where did you buy it ?
• how much did it cost ?
• how do you mount it for use ?


• is it attached to the Tormek, or to the bench ?

Pictures would be great !

Kind regards,
Rich

Wootz,

I'm having trouble following your work.  I think it would be good to create some language to describe what you are saying relative to movement. 

Airplanes use the language of roll & yaw (http://visual.merriam-webster.com/transport-machinery/air-transport/movements-an-airplane.php ).  That would work if you used them in terms of movement of the SVM-xxx knife jig, but that's just one option. 

Your testing is very worthwhile & I want to understand it better so I can replicate you good learnings. I may not be the brightest crayon in the box, but I am smart enough to learn from my betters & elders.

Kind regards,
Rich

Wootz recommends the use of collars (see also, https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3050.msg16671#msg16671 ). 

I just keep them on the jigs.

Kind regards,
Rich

Very interesting concept, sort of a hybrid of the svs-50 and the svs-32

2 thoughts, if you don't mind some input:
1) it looks like your screw is off centered on the D collar, as well as slightly angled. That could be causing the twist.  For your next attempt, maybe it'd be easier to drill that hole before attaching to the half circle?
2) I think the most ideal solution would be to have the collar attached to the jig, rather than the tool. Then there's no need to set up the spacing and fiddle with 2 separate bolts every time. I could see this with that same D shape attached to the jig with just a flat plate across the top of the two..... Of course, then you're dealing with joining zinc and aluminum, but i see no reason you couldn't drill and tap instead of weld for that part

Just some thoughts to consider, but this idea in general is really cool. Two thumbs up for your innovation

This is based on the knife jig collar described by Wootz in this posting => https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=3050.msg16671#msg16671.

As for the machining (#1), well, I think I will end up making another one on the lathe, similar to the "O" collar I made.

As for the collar attaching to the SVS-50 Jig (#2), I don't think that would work as the tool has to rotate 180 degrees to sharpen all the sides.   To attach it to the jig would make this hard, or the attachment may be too weak.  Don't know for sure, but it is an interesting idea.

Rich

I was pleased to see the TTS setter modified for knives among your jigs.

That's my HanJig, serial number 1 !!

Here is the link to the messages where it is outlined https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=2639.msg16563#msg16563.

I have a basement workshop, and I am a big believer in 5S (i.e., keeping the tools where you need them, and keeping the space neat and tidy).  Thusly, I keep the Tormek jigs out where they can be grabbed easily for use. 

Here is my sharpening station :

You may notice that I've labelled where each jig or accessory goes.  That is to be sure they go back to the right place after use.  Also, when my father passed on, I had quite the task to figure out what some of his tools were (and I had his brother to help me).  So I'm saving my sons that effort, but hopefully that is 30-40 years from now.

There is a spray bottle of camilla oil I keep on the left side of the bottom shelf (the one with Japanese text on it, beside the Wahl oil).  It is quite useful for protecting tools that get sharpened and put away for a while (e.g., utility chisels).

I keep the manuals available, and have to refer to them when doing something I've not done for a while.

Oh, and you may also see the gun cleaning rod and wire brush (the T-handled tool hanging just above the black grinder).  That idea came from the AAW forum where it was recommended as a way for cleaning the flute on gouges, particularly bowl gouges.  It is a great approach, and keeps my hands away from the cutting edge.

Kind regards,
Rich

It's gonna take a bit more practice combining the motion of rotating the jig while at the same time keeping the tool moving across the surface to keep from wearing grooves

Ha !  Good luck.  I've been using a Tormek for 15 years and still do that when I sharpen a lot on gouges.

As Ken says, the grindstone is an item that just has to be replaced. 

Rich.

I made that upgrade.  Very worthwhile investment!

Rich

I completed the collar, trying two separate approaches. 

The first one I made I call a "D" collar (on the left in the picture below).  It is made from a steel pipe with a 2 inch internal diameter.  I sawed it into two pieces and welded a flat piece to the top.  (Probably good that I'm in IT and not a professional welder ...)

I didn't like the quality of the first one, so I made another other one that I call an "O" collar (on the right in the picture below).  It was made from a 3 inch bar stock of aluminum, and was turned on the metal lathe.

The "D" collar is about 1/2 inch wide, and works pretty well.  I did notice that it would rotate on the tool somewhat, so that is what I made the "O" collar.

   

The "O" collar is about 1 inch wide, and works well in terms of not rotating on the shaft. However, it is too big when the projection is only 55 mm.  So, I guess I will have to work with both, using one or the other depending on which works better.

   

I'm not happy with the quality of the "D" collar :  it works, but I will probably end up making another.

Welcome home.

[SVD-186 Gouge Jig]

Bill,

The ones I've found useful include :

• For larger gouges, the SVD-186 Gouge Jig (much better than the SVD-185 !!)


• which also requires the TTS-100 Turning Tool Setter
• For smaller gouges, the SVS-38 Short Tool Jig (or the SVS-32, but the SVS-38 replaced the SVS-32.  Also, the SVS-38 is wider :  38 vs 32 mm)

The LA-120 Profiled Honing Wheel is a useful item also.


I've cataloged how I sharpen these on my site, www.SharpeningHandbook.info.  Good luck, and please do let us know if you experience any issues.  Loads of experience and helpful advice on this forum.

Kind regards,
Rich

I've made some updates to the site, adding instructions for a few new tools.

Two new things have been added: 

• I've added a section where information on useful tools or jigs for sharpening will be provided (it is in the Sharpening Resources link).
• The second new addition is Jan's guide for using a laser as a goniometer.

Thanks to Jan for the addition.

Kind regards,
Rich