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Messages - RichColvin

Quote from: Ken S on July 04, 2024, 02:48:31 PMRob, old friend, you haven't yet completely sold me on the Axminster deal, unless someone wanted a second Tormek. Even then, my inner thrifty old Yankee is skeptical. £400 could buy a lot of water and shininess. Or, I would think the proceeds from selling your old reliable Tormek plus that £400 could pay for a shiny new T8 Original with shiny new grinding and honing wheels, all with Tormek's new warranty.

I would stay in the serious considering mode a while longer.

I agree.  I've had to replace some parts over time on my Tormek T-2000, but it is a beast.  And some of the replacement parts are better than the original ones, so like Robert Pirsig's bike (in Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance), it is always getting better!  As long as Tormek sells replacement parts, I'll keep using it.

Some Tormek stuff is worth replacing when new ones come out:
  • The SVD-186 is a significant upgrade from the SVD-185, which was a nice upgrade from the SVD-180
  • The SE-77 is a really nice upgrade from the SVH-60
  • The KJ-45 is a really great upgrade from the KVM-45, especially when used with the KS-123.
  • The TT-50 is a HUGE improvement over the ADV-50

The base machine isn't in that category for me.  It is more like the grindstones  I have the diamond grinding wheels, yet I find myself using the SG grindstone most often. 

Summary:  if you want to get a 2nd machine, then this is a good way to go. Otherwise, I'd keep the machine you already have. 
Well, as one who's worn out two SG and one or two SB grindstones in the 21 years I've had my Tormek, I'd say it is very possible.

To me, 178mm is the more interesting point.  I've always thought of 180mm as the min.  And to get down to that, I had do some interesting machinations to get the water trough on the T-2000 raised up high enough (  
Wood Turning / Re: bowl gouge question
June 23, 2024, 07:22:14 PM
There are three factors in play here, and as this is a non-standard grind angle, you will need to figure out the recipe for yourself.

I recommend you incorporate these thoughts:

  • The USB's height above the grindstone: I recommend you use the TTS-100 to set this and start with hole A.  Using this approach locks down this variable and makes for a repeatable approach.
  • The JS on the SVD-185 or SVD-186: this determines the amount of sweep in the bowl gouge's wings (higher numbers = greater sweep). The chart in the Tormek manual shows this (page 82 in edition 10.5).  Again, locking down this variable makes for a repeatable approach.
  • The projection of the tool from the SVD-185/186 is the last variable.  It will probably need to be greater than 75mm, but you will need to experiment with this factor.

These notes are all based on grinding the tool's edge on the grindstone in a traditional manner.  You might want to also consider using the multi-base (MB-100 or MB-102) as this will allow for sharpening at these angles with shorter projections.  This will become more important if you don't have enough tool shaft to achieve the needed projection. This approach is a little less repeatable though, and I'm sure that you already know that turning tools need to be resharpened often, so repeatability is key.

Good luck, and do keep us up-to-date on what you find.
I love the mrpete222 videos.  
I would have used the KJ-45.  Am I missing something?
I've made one of these and, as usual, Per's design is excellent.  
Is the Japanese knife sharpened on both sides, or only one?
This video overviews the SVS-32 which is the predecessor to the SVS-38, and works the same way (just 6 mm narrower).

As noted, it works with tools down to 45mm / 1 ¾" in length. 

Either can be combined with an MB-100 or MB-102 and, using the side of the grindstone, get even closer.  Here's a video about the MB-100 (the MB-102 works the same way for this).
Quote from: 3D Anvil on May 30, 2024, 05:22:29 PMI've been round the bend with this issue, too.  The truth is that it's just a limitation of the current system, and there's no perfect way around it.  If you draw the blade straight across, keeping the jig perpendicular to the guide bar, and only raise your elbow to bring the belly into contact with the stone--as suggested by Tormek--you will have a higher bevel angle toward the tip. 

If, on the other hand, you pivot the jig to get the belly/tip lower down on the stone, there will be some inconsistency in that area, although it can be minimized with practice.  However ... there are some situations where no amount of pivoting can get the tip low enough to match the angle on the rest of the knife.

These days I don't let it wreck my head.  The angle difference generally isn't that extreme, and the system gets knives sharp, and quickly. 
I would ad to this:  identify a process which is repeatable.  In my book, that is the #1 key to success.
This design allows for use of the side of the grinding stone, but certain angles would not be cut using that approach.  For example, the single point cutters used on metal lathes have a cutting edge angle along with a rake angle.  
Yes, the 250mm grindstone is 50mm wide, and the 200mm grindstone is 40mm wide. 
Knife Sharpening / Re: Simple Platform Jig
May 24, 2024, 09:33:14 PM
Please share the STL files.
Both have legs which are 145mm long.  The difference is in the top bar

  • US-105 = 305mm
  • US-103 = 295mm

As noted, the US-103 is 10mm shorter to accommodate the 200mm grindstone which is 10mm thinner than the 250mm grindstone.
I am in the process of designing a goniostat for the Tormek, and am seeking feedback.  This jig is designed for sharpening these types of tools:

  • Single point cutting tools for small metal lathes.
  • Engraving bits used in rotary cutters, especially as driven by a router type motor on a CNC machine, and
  • Tools for ornamental turning, especially on rose engines.
  • End mills

The picture below shows the parts I've designed so far.

The parts are:

  • DBS-22 Plate (item #2, p/n 2350, shown in gray).  This slides left / right on the base of the DBS-22.

  • Goniostat Base Plate (blue).  The final one will need some form of marking to show the angle for setting.  The drawing below shows shows the tool fence with the pointer at the top and the locking knob removed.  This angle would read 90°, and the fence can be rotated left or right as needed.

  • Tool Fence (red) - used to set the angle for grinding the edge.  The tool or tool holder would be held against this when sharpening.
    The bolt coming up thru the Goniostat Base Plate is a T-Slot bolt from McMaster-Carr (p/n 92770A113).  I had to turn the shoulder down a little so that it did not protrude too much above the surface of the Goniostat Base Plate.  The area noted in red below is what was turned to the the same as the screw shaft.

  • Plate Angle Gauge (yellow) - used to set the angle of the plate (DBS-22 and Goniostat Base Plate) on the USB.  This would also have indicator marks.  They are simulated at 15° increments in the drawing below.  There are no rollers on the design (like on the TTS-100).  That would be an improvement which would be welcome.

  • Round Tool Holders (green) - these are used to hold tools for sharpening which have round shafts.  They have a 60° nose angle to allow the held tool to be ground up close.  The hole in the top is for a 6mm set screw to hold the tool's shaft in place.
    The sizes shown on the right are the ones I will use.  3D printing the 8 of them will take a while on my 3D printer, which is pretty slow. There are two generic ones shown on the left.  The left-most one is 25mm square and would be drilled for holding bigger tools.  The other one is 15mm square and would be drilled for holding smaller tools.
These are videos of the goniostat in use.

Wood Carving / Re: Japanese chisel challenge
May 21, 2024, 04:36:48 AM
The MB-102 helps greatly and allows you to use the side of the grindstone.