Messages

Rick,

I agree wholeheartedly.  

Rick,

I used your earlier idea, but with this pin vise:

https://www.starrett.com/details?cat-no=166C

I found that the original one worked acceptably.  It seemed so simple yet worked. 

I have the new one and like it a lot more, but I've not used it extensively. 

I watched the class in re-run, and it is really good.  One thing which I believe Wolfgang missed about the Japanese water stone is its value for re-sharpening knives with thin blades.  

I carried a Swiss Army Tinker pocket knife for years, and I too ate up the blades too fast when resharpening them.

Now, when I resharpen the Swiss Army knife, I find that the SJ water stone is quite sufficient to achieve the needed work, and it greatly minimizes the metal removal, extending the life of the knife.

There are upgrades you can do to your SuperGrind 2000 which will greatly improve it.  I've outlined the ones which make sense to me (as an owner of a SuperGrind 2000 also ... and a T8), and you can get to that at:

https://sharpeninghandbook.info/PurchasedAnOldTormek.html

But if you want to replace your SuperGrind with a T8, I am quite sure you can resell your old Tormek.  

[Sharp-Nado Sharpening Station]

Sharpening Supplies has just announced an amazing new product:  Sharp-Nado Sharpening Station.



There is even room in the middle for your Bess tester!

Here's a link to the product announcement.  I'm not sure when they will be shipping it.

I believe I've seen them on GrabCAD or Printables or Thingaverse. 

Rane has a great point.  I like his approach, but wanted a way to ensure that all the cutters were consistently cut to the same depth and perpendicular to the axis of rotation for the pen mill.

I added a part to the 3D-printed goniostat to address sharpening the pen mill also.  Using the depth stop helps ensure the cutters are consistent.



The angle on all my pen mills of this type is around 10°, and that matches those recommended for soft metals in Design and Use of Cutting Tools by St. Clair.

This is very easily done on the Tormek, and I now will be cursing less when making pens.

You can see the details at https://www.sharpeninghandbook.info/WW-PenMill.html and 
https://www.sharpeninghandbook.info/Jigs-Goniostat.html.

I've cataloged the sharpening of many gardening tools at the Sharpening Handbook (https://sharpeninghandbook.info). 

The SVS-50 can be used.   Here is what I've logged about it.  https://sharpeninghandbook.info/WW-SpindleRoughingGouge.html

Ken, please move this to Hand Tool Woodworking 

I'd use either the SVD-110 or make a platform jig (https://sharpeninghandbook.info/Jigs-Platform.html)

I'd check the projection 1st.  Is it 65 mm?

I would also explore how they use the knives on the cutting boards.  In particular, do the sweep the cut parts with the cutting edge up or down.  It is very common to not flip the knife, and sweeping the board with the cutting edge down will quickly dull the knife.

I can't tell from the picture, but is one side pretty rough, almost like lava stone?  I ask as the rough side of the SP 650 is used to grade the grindstone towards the 220 end, and the smoother side gets used to grade that grindstone towards the 1000 end.