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Randy,

The late Dr. Vadim Kraichuk wrote an excellent book about deburring knives and made a shortened version of it free for distribution.  Whilst it is about knives, I believe many of the principles will apply to what you are finding.

To get to the book, this link will get you there: https://www.sharpeninghandbook.info/Documents/Knife_Deburring_book.pdf.

You can get the full-length version from Amazon.

Kind regards,
Rich

That looks like a masonry bit.  Not much guidance on these. 

What are you trying to achieve with a diamond wheel that you cannot achieve with the SG grindstone?

I use both.   I use the composite honing wheel for wood turning tools; otherwise I use the leather honing wheel.  The leather is messier, but I believe it gives a finer hone.

Tormek have designed a product which is simple in design, but ever so useful for so many activities. I really like that Tormek provided the 3D CAD file to enable us to print them at home. 

Just 3D printed two sets.  Nice!

Hugh, as you've doing many chisels, may I recommend a different method.

As I am a woodturner, I am quite familiar with using the TTS-100 to set the distance for the USB from the grinding wheel and the tool's projection from the SVD-186.

I wanted a way to do quick-and-easy resharpening of my chisels that worked along the same approach as resharpening turning tools.  With the help of Jan H, I developed a 3D printed part which is used to set the projection of the chisel from the SE-77.

More details are at https://sharpeninghandbook.info/Jigs-ProjectionTTS-100.html.

Ed,

I don't think it's an easy answer to give. I find that I can resharpen a LOT of tools before I need to re-true the stone.  As for re-grading, that's more driven by the need for making the stone go back from 1000 grit to 200 grit.  For many blades, I don't have to do that. 

Rich

Rick,

I left mine hexagonal. It seemed to work well, but I've not sharpened a lot of small bits. 

Rick,

I agree wholeheartedly.  

Rick,

I used your earlier idea, but with this pin vise:

https://www.starrett.com/details?cat-no=166C

I found that the original one worked acceptably.  It seemed so simple yet worked. 

I have the new one and like it a lot more, but I've not used it extensively. 

I watched the class in re-run, and it is really good.  One thing which I believe Wolfgang missed about the Japanese water stone is its value for re-sharpening knives with thin blades.  

I carried a Swiss Army Tinker pocket knife for years, and I too ate up the blades too fast when resharpening them.

Now, when I resharpen the Swiss Army knife, I find that the SJ water stone is quite sufficient to achieve the needed work, and it greatly minimizes the metal removal, extending the life of the knife.

There are upgrades you can do to your SuperGrind 2000 which will greatly improve it.  I've outlined the ones which make sense to me (as an owner of a SuperGrind 2000 also ... and a T8), and you can get to that at:

https://sharpeninghandbook.info/PurchasedAnOldTormek.html

But if you want to replace your SuperGrind with a T8, I am quite sure you can resell your old Tormek.  

[Sharp-Nado Sharpening Station]

Sharpening Supplies has just announced an amazing new product:  Sharp-Nado Sharpening Station.



There is even room in the middle for your Bess tester!

Here's a link to the product announcement.  I'm not sure when they will be shipping it.