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I recently re-sharpened my Two Cherries 40mm carpenters chisel after a project.  My process was:

• Clean up the edge using the SG-250 grindstone, graded to a rough grit
• Sharpen the edge using the same SG-250 grindstone, graded to a very fine grit
• Hone on the leather wheel
• Hone on a paper wheel using red rouge
• Hone on a paper wheel using jeweler's rouge

When I grabbed one of them today to use it again, I slipped and it cut me pretty badly.  The picture below shows how easily it was to splatter blood (yes, it is my own blood).

You cannot view this attachment.

So, two take-always:

• The Tormek is more than adequate for sharpening chisels
• Be careful handling those sharpened tools.

Ken,

I like this.  It also seems to me like a pre-flight checklist.  This is a great way to be ready you are setup for success. 

Rich

They are probably at a 40-45° grind angle, and need a good, clean edge (not razor sharp).  My first thought is that these should be sharpened by hand, running against the Tormek grindstone.

Ken,

I am quite sure that in my case, it is definitely the operator at fault. 

Rich

I would like to say that this never happens to me ... 

Rick you're right. I seldom use my stone grader anymore. A diamond plate in the SE-77 works a charm.

Would you be so kind as to share of picture of what you're doing?  It sounds intriguing.

Rob,

You need to look at this using two criteria:

1. Is the blade removable?  If so, then sharpen it using the SVD-186.  That is the way we sharpen cutter blades for wood turning (https://sharpeninghandbook.info/WW-Scrape-Blade.html).

2. If not, then is the shaft (between the handle and the blade) round?

• If not, consider using the SVD-110 Tool Rest.  It would be easy to align the sharpening action with the sides of the shaft.
• If it is round, then this is a bit of a sticky wicket.  The SVD-110 could still be used, but you'd have to use more hand control on the sharpening action.  That is not terrible, but it requires more attention.

Just some thoughts.

Rich

Sergei,

I've looked on Thingaverse and Printables.  Both seem to have bits and bobs available.  Some seem to me to be clear violations of Tormek's intellectual property rights; Others, not so much. 

One thing I do use often is the drip tray.  It and others I've found useful are cataloged on the Sharpening Handbook in the Jigs section (https://sharpeninghandbook.info/indexJigs.html).

Rich

Today I experienced an interesting find relative to the correct grindstone to use for sharpening for an old chisel.  The chisel of note is an old Stanley 1 1/2" wide chisel I inherited from my grandfather.  He passed away in 1985.  So I know the chisel is over 40 years old, but it is probably closer to 75+.

All that matters as it says that this chisel is definitely made from high carbon steel.

I love using this chisel for all the nostalgia reasons, but also because it works so well.  Recently though, I nicked the blade when using it on old wood (I hit a hidden nail). 

The process I wanted to follow was:

• Re-profile the ground surface, removing the nick, using the coarse diamond wheel (DC-250).
• Sharpen the chisel using the fine diamond wheel (DF-250).
• Clean up the grinds using the extra fine diamond wheel (DE-250).
• Hone the edge using red rouge on a paper wheel.
• Hone the edge using jeweler's rouge on a paper wheel.

What I found was that step 1 was taking a LONG time.  So, I switched over to the tried-and-true process:

• True the traditional grindstone (SG-250), and then re-profile the ground surface, removing the nick.
• Re-grade the traditional grindstone to around 250 grit, and then clean up the surface scratches.
• Re-grade the traditional grindstone to around 1000 grit, and continue cleaning up the surface scratches.
• Do a final clean-up of the cutting edge using the Japanese waterstone (SJ-250).
• Hone the edge using red rouge on a paper wheel.
• Hone the edge using jeweler's rouge on a paper wheel.

I found that the 2nd process took about 30 minutes, and I achieved the desired sharpness on my chisel.  After applying camellia oil, this chisel is ready for business again.

I was surprised at the difference I saw in the time required.  It reinforces what Ken has said so many times:  the original grindstone is not dead.

On the SVS-50, I use 0° & projection of 55mm, combined with setting the USB using hole A on the TTS-100.  This gives a 35° edge angle.

https://sharpeninghandbook.info/WW-SpindleRoughingGouge.html

I have a SuperGrind 2000 & a T-8.  On both, I use the full width when using the DBS-22.

So you slide with the drill bit completely beyond the outer edge of the grinding stone?

I do

I have a SuperGrind 2000 & a T-8.  On both, I use the full width when using the DBS-22.

Daniel,

It looks to me like you are not aligning the bit rotationally correct in the DBS-22 jig.  The leading edge of the bit needs to be aligned with the line on the DBS-22.  This is outlined in the manual for the DBS-22 on pg. 7 (pictures on the 2d row).

DBS-22 Manual ==> https://tormek.com/download/18.681cbd68182e94c066a21e2d/1688042189465/InstructionDBS-22%20Drill%20Bit%20Sharpening%20Attachment.pdf

Kind regards,
Rich

Andrew,

I do a lot of semi-fine woodworking on my bench, and wanted an easy way to quickly resharpen my bench chisels.   This thread on the forum discusses some great insights I got from others for a way to use the SE-77 with the TTS-100.

      https://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=4971.0

The 3D-printed jig works wonderfully.  You can get the plans for that on the Sharpening Handbook site:

       https://www.sharpeninghandbook.info/indexJigs.html#ProjJigTTS100

This is probably useful for you to get a chisel reshaped as you are noting. 

Rich

Well, I guess it is a grinder...