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This is still my favorite:  the Tormek T-99

When you see Japanese knife sharpeners on their huge waterstones that does not seem so absurd. Also grandpa's huge sharpening wheel. We actually have one here. I intend to build a new frame for it.

Please post pics 

Yeah, marks on plywood would work well too.  The projections needed are discussed in this forum thread:  https://forum.tormek.com/index.php/topic,4971.msg35710.html#msg35710

Hey everyone,

I thought I'd share with you my findinds pertaining to laser engraving. I started with a 5W output 455 nm, and I managed to get sub-par results by coating the blade beforehand (sharpie, mustard, painter's tape...).

I recently acquired a USD 400ish 2W 1064nm IR head, and the results are amazing. I can engrave knife blades with the sharpening angle or with their owner's name. I can also put a straight mark on a chisel right where I want. It can also mark plastics (preferably light or dark as the result is kind of greyish), so
handles can be marked too.

It might be a nice addition to a premium sharpener's toolset. Mine is an open-frame one, so quite bulky, but there are also portable versions that will engrave up to 70x70 mm.

Cheers,

Nick.

What laser do you use?

This is still my favorite:  the Tormek T-99  https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/New-Tormek-T-99-W213.aspx

The 3D-printed jig I outlined works the same way your board does for setting the protrusion of the chisel beyond the SE-77 jig.   And, as Ken noted, the TTS-100 is used to set the USB distance to the stone to a standard.  

This approach handles 3 angles:  20°, 25°, & 30°.  I think those work well for the majority of chisels.  

I'm at the point where I have complete sets of Imperial, number and letter sizes, and metric bits.  If I break a bit, it is usually one which I use often, so I replace it with a well-made one (and buy a 2d for a backup). 

I wanted to do the same.  That is what this jig is for https://sharpeninghandbook.info/indexJigs.html#ProjJigTTS100

I have a mish-mash of drill bits which have come from many sources, including inheritance from my dad (who loved Harbor Freight). As I replace them, I but good quality ones from McMaster-Carr.  

I may be wrong, but it seems to me that bits which are much shorter (e.g., ¼" shorter) are not as hard as they were before grinding off that material. At least they need to be resharpened more often. 

I usually use the SVM-00 for blades which are short.  One easy example is a marking knife.  It works well for that.  

Rick, I'm glad you've posted this.  I've also used a bench grinder to start the process of cleaning up a badly damaged drill bit.  I knew that I sometimes ground down past the area of hardening, but did not know about damaging the DBS jig. 

I'm interested in hearing what you find

Madam Cutler,

Over the 20+ years I've been using a Tormek, I have found that there are very few singularity correct answers or approaches.  If you find that sharpening free-hand works best (or, as I call it, "Jed Clampet Style"), then do what works for you.

I don't find this to be that onerous, and as Rick noted, at times the alignment is not along the marks.  

Ken,

The extra knob on the SVD-186-R does not limit the swing.

I have captured information about sharpening gouges here:  https://sharpeninghandbook.info/WW-SpindleGouge.html. 

The sweep back is driven by grinding activity, and less so about the jig's setting.  If you grind more on the sides than the tip, you get a more pronounced "fingernail".  Some of the videos I have noted help explain better.

Kind regards,
Rich