Messages

Have one friend that owns a restaurant.  Neighbor, retired chef (Austrian), and a friend who is Japanese and a chef.  In these cases, I can see them liking the SJ stone, for constant touch up's of their knives.  I think there are times when it would be good, but for an average person, it would just be a want, not need.

Tormek has added the black and Japanese wheels to increase its range of cutting capability.  I believe at some future date we may see a diamond wheel for the Tormek. that would be superb (and probably priced that way).  To have the cool dust free cutting of the Tormek combined with the fast cutting of the diamond wheel with no need to re-true and refresh the stone would be a major advance.

If I just had a Tormek with a diamond wheel and the skill of my grandfather and the old carpenter............

Ken

ps I highly recommend having a set of bastard, second cut and smooth mill files with proper handles.  I have them is several sizes.  They see a lot of use, usually quick smoothing and fitting chores.

I haven't seen the diamond/CBN wheels on this side of the pond, but I have seen them listed for a Tormek both in the UK and Australia.  Others came out with other stones for the Tormek, before they came out with their other stones, so it isn't surprising.  I would think the CBN stones, would be along the lines of the SJ, more then the other ones, personally. (great if your only honing, not so much for any shaping)

Just keep in mind when comparing prices that a new Tormek comes with only the square edge jig and the truing tool.

Wrong, try again. The grading stone, the larger water trough, the stainless steel shaft (and a new stone, compared with what size stone is on a used one and the possibility of breakage, when swapping shafts) a possibly newer angle jig (shows lower degrees for some things), and a FULL tube of honing compound.
Those all need to be figured into the cost, new verses upgrading. It can be done (I did it, sub $190 for my Tormek), but I didn't also need the newer frame and stickers, that the square frame model would to bring it up to date. (also need to know the time frame one has to wait for one, I waited 7 years from the time I saw one and couldn't afford it, till I found a deal)

Grepper, yes they do.  Friend that has the restaurant has had me take one of theirs into the local service place (also does the sharpening).  Knowing how sharp those blade are, as well as awkward, I wouldn't want to try it on the Tormek.

If I had my time over again, although I definitely value my T7, I wouldn't be happy paying the new price for it.  I would buy 2nd hand (because they're so robust).

As someone who bought his second hand, I want to modify this a bit.  I am happy with my setup, as it was very cost effective.  Mine is a Tormek 2000, from around the time they switched to the stainless shaft.  It didn't take much to upgrade my machine; my biggest cost was the jigs I wanted weren't with it (former owner had more of the turning stuff).
Now, there is the third Tormek on my local CL that I have seen.  (mine, a T 3 NIB unused, and now the older square frame 2000 model) Since the one on there now costs more then mine did (listed for $250 now, after dramatically dropping over the last couple months), has fewer, older, jigs, and has the square frame, the cost to make it current, would be too close to new. (without the warranty)
You can do better, if you know what jigs you need and how far along the one your looking at is.

The Chinese style (also used in Japan, and who knows where else), are typically thinner, and square all the way around, and not used for meat, but vegetables.  Meat cleavers are thicker and can be straight or have the slight smile.  I was thinking the knob might act as more of a pivot/problem on the thinner square produce cleavers (verses the flat section of the handle riding against the bar).

Thanks

Was it the same way for both style cleavers, or is this just for the meat or Chinese produce cleavers?

Hi Gino. Welcome to the forum.

See Post #3 in this thread:

http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=930.msg2537#msg2537

Post 3, from Jeff, also known as the don't try this professionally, slower then beard growing.  Post 4 from you gives directions.  Are you typing Freudian style, where you think it takes more time then worth?

When I first got the Tormek and the newer SE76, before I even watched the video, or read the instruction manual, I used the front brackets, to touch up a chisel (didn't really need it, but I figured practice).  Only thing I tried it with was a butt chisel and the 32 jig.  (really need to bench grinder or something first, was a garage sale, really out of whack chisel).  Will take a LONG time on the front, and I am still not comfortable with a lot, free hand yet.

Lars, since you have already removed the shaft to replace the bearings, it should be easily removable again.  You could roll the bar on a flat surface and watch it. 
Part of me thinks, what will be found is a cracked drive wheel (overtightening), or a high spot on the drive wheel that doesn't allow all three dimples to fall into their respective spots on the adjoining wheel.
Part of me says you didn't leave the camera there long enough for a valid look at the spacing, and the wheel coloration, is causing me to see an optical illusion.

I looked inside my Tormek with the grinding wheel removed.  The sleeves appear to be held onto the frame with nuts.  The largest metric wrenches own are 19mm, too small for the nuts. 

Do the sleeves fit into precisely sized holes or are the holes oversized to allow for some adjustment?  If Kenny's sleeves are out of alignment, that might be the problem.

Ken

http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=62.0

According to Jeff's post from 2004 (is the 2007 model different?), they have some play to one side. (and 27mm nuts)

At this point, I think the ball is out of our court.  I just hope what is found is posted, rather then leave threads without an answer, like the other one I found with the same/similar? issue from 2004: http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=57.0
This board is only a good resource when the solutions are here, not just problems.

Bump,
with the recent activity, I think this should be remembered.

I´m listening 
The biggest problem is time, were can a man buy more hours ?

Stig

A day on Pluto is approximately 153.36 hours.
Otherwise, what did you do with all that time off?  (I have been trying the last several years to take a vacation, too many people not at work getting injured, and their hospital stays, keep preventing that). Last vacation, was over 22 years ago.
Doesn't matter what you do, there is also more projects, then time.

LOL, Lorenna Bobbit comes to mind.

I mentioned checking the sleeves to see if they were tight.  I found a post here, that mentioned they should have some side to side play, due to minor differences in the USB (welding/heat can cause some issues).  I would see how hard it is to take them off completely, then reattach. (would also see if the metal housing under them is dimpled or something, causing it to not be parallel of if the sleeves themselves, off the machine, have an issue (angled instead of perpendicular drilled).
I second Ken's opinion of your attitude in finding the problem.