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So short that you don't post a link?

SADW,

Would love to have access the accumulated information you've compiled from the manufacturers.

Kind regards,
Rich

I think I have contacted only three so far, and it was on certain series/brands of knives.  (basically due to finding deals on the knives, not retail)

1.  I am not surprised, as I expect there is some excess in manufacturing left on the stone, as it allows truing whether your tool is new, or is old and needs new bushings and not parallel.  I would recommend truing it.

2.  My understanding is the T8, due to its design, allowed the water tray to raise higher then on the T7 or earlier designs.  This has the benefit of causing the stone to last longer/be used at smaller diameters then older models.
Don't raise it to where it is hitting, as you use the stone, you will raise it higher, as the stone wears.

Dutchman,
I was the winner of the naming contest, as I though based on Ken's plans, it was appropriate.
That doesn't make the science behind it of any less value.

Newbie, in the forums software (used on LOTS of forums) is based SOLELY on POST COUNT. 

Ken, this is why I ask the manufacturers for the angle they sharpen whatever the knife that I bought is.  So far, most have responded pretty quick.

x50CrMoV15 is in a classification as German steel.  That label has to meet certain criteria and be put ON the blades by their laws.  I do wish all steels had to be marked that way, as it would be easier to learn ones preferences.  I have found the Victorinox and Update international ones that use this type of steel, seem harder and take longer to sharpen, then my personal favorite, the Dexter Russel sani-safe. (only labeled as high carbon steel)
Both work well at 15° though.

How about a name on that tester?

I contacted some of the manufacturers of the knives I have done for my friends restaurant.  My thoughts were to try to match the factory angles.  What I have read online, indicated that most western chef's knives were typically 20°, but contacting the manufacturers of restaurant style knives, they were more the eastern/Asian grind of 15°.  Before I had the Tormek, most of the sharpeners I would use on something like that, were the V style and set at 20°. (prior to Tormek, most of my sharpening was old planes I were restoring)  I was asked to sharpen another batch (three), and one of them would still cut paper, but to them was dull.  (I suspect it was as sharp as a new knife, but not as sharp as they have become used to since I started sharpening them)
I have not sharpened any butchers or cimeters yet, although maybe next year, as their brother has been doing bbq contests.  When they put an order in for some stuff, I did order one to practice with as I couldn't buy it anywhere else at the price ($8).  I need to find a use for it, as I don't want to dull a knife, just to practice with; seems wrong.
Personally, I think the 20° angle, might be better on a knife that is used for dicing.  However, at a damaged freight store, locally, I picked up two Nakiri knives for $10 each and gave one to them.  The factory said 15° on them.
For Ken:
I also picked up a Santoku, which is similar to the Nakiri, but the later allows more hand space around the handle (less knuckle hitting if dicing).  As they go from slicing tomato's to dicing lettuce and the Nakiri is about the same height as a chef's/cooks knife, with no pointy tip.

You got the shaft, and not the one your looking for.    Was this listed as new, or something like an Open box/damaged packing listing (in which case it would make me wonder if someone returned the wrong one back in the other box, for a bigger refund)?

+1 on Greppers answer, with the addition of people believe the hand stones may provide better edges, in part, due to some training with them, and practice with them.
My knife experience with the Tormek, proves to me that with experience/practice, I have improved with the Tormek, enough so I do get better edges, in less time, then the edges of tools I have done with a whetstone.
But if you compared my knives, to Steve's, I bet he would win, as he has even more experience/feel for it, and he could probably beat me as well, using a whetstone.

I think we are spending too much time discussing one knife. Let's imagine a "typical" sharpening job. For ease of calculating, let's say you sharpen ten knives. Included is the chef's knife with the minor damage. Chances are that the other nine will be at various stages of dullness. Assuming that you are using a kenjig of Wootz' computer program, set up will be fast. You will probably use only one bevel angle, or at most two. The wheel diameter will remain constant. You already have your grinding wheel trued and graded.

Some of the ten knives may sharpen very quickly. Some will need an "average" time. Some, like this chef's knife will take longer. If ten knives take half an hour, your average time is three minutes. I believe most customers would think a surcharge would be reasonable for something obvious, like a broken tip or major grinding time due to poor sharpening in the past. If the other knives look average or better, a customer would appreciate a very modest or, even better, foregoing a charge. You could tell the customer that since he brought several knives, or is a regular customer, you will forego the extra repair charge. You will make up the time/cost on the easier knives. Even better, this customer may become a repeat customer. Be sure to politely share some knife care suggestions to help prevent future damage and make his knives cut better and last longer.

I have never sharpened professionally. I have served customers for thirty five years as a telephone installation/repair technician. As a customer, I am a loyal repeat customer to business people who are competent and treat me well. If I get quality workmanship at a fair price, I am reluctant to go across the street for a cheaper price.

You have asked a pertinent question. Keep up the good work.

Ken

ps Like you, I also appreciate the Tormek's dust free environment.

Careful Ken.  Go sharpen 10 different brand chef's knives, and you will find not all their blades are identical in width.  That does affect the angle on the stone and where freehand makes speed easier.
I found out that sharpening knives for my friends restaurant.  Granted, I typically pick them up at the end of their business day, and sharpen them that night, returning them the next morning, so a few more minutes to set up doesn't bother me.  (nor do the free meals)

Lots of hits for this via the site search box but I couldn't find a picture of this interesting-sounding device. Can someone kindly provide a pointer, please?

You'll have to get Ken or someone who has one to post a picture... I don't think they're being sold anymore.  From what I remember it's just a USB on steroids. 

Still on his site I see:
http://www.sharpeningtraining.co.uk/ourshop/prod_6129672-Tormek-Extended-Universal-Support-Bar.html

Am I missing something? When many of us either have or are lusting after an SJ-250 Japanese grinding wheel costing several hundred dollars, why is the cost of honing compound such an issue?

I thought with the SJ stone, you didn't need to use the leather wheel?  (thought the point of it was honing/polishing)

Designing a machine with a purpose to serve in the professional kitchen, where they count minutes and seconds in everything, the design and operation must be as easy as possible. A large issue is the hundred or thousands of different knifes that are on the market. There is no design that can sharpen absolute everything so the main goal is to find a design that work on most of them. During our research, the knifes that cbwx34 are using to demonstrate the problems he found, is of course the same knifes that we know needs more steps in the set up. We found this type of knifes to be less used in the professional kitchen than knives with the design on Mac, Global, Victorinox Grand Maître and very more brands and in general, knives with no bolster or handles that goes over the knifes blades back.

We worked with some of the best chefs in the world before we started to sell the machine outside of Sweden.
They wanted a reliable machine to sharpen their knifes as fast as possible with the same result every time. We have a 100% positive feedback from the users we are addressing this machine to, from all our markets we now sell the machine on. In France, where the Sabatier design is common, we have sold hundreds of machines with no comments of problems from the chefs using the T-2.
They don't care about some minor scratches on the blade, they don't use the paper inlay, the knife is a tool to be used and they want it sharp at any time. As one of them said, he made more scratches with the steel he used before starting using the T-2.


Sincerely,
Stig

I would disagree with you a bit, but then again, what you may mean and wrote, could come across as two different things.
What defines a "professional kitchen"?
I would say the knives that CB tried, would be used in something between 75 and 80% of the commercial kitchens I am aware of.  Now the chef's in higher end kitchens, are more likely to have both higher end and costing knives, as well as being less likely to let someone else use or sharpen them.  I do agree that they are less likely to worry about scratches, if THEY are doing the sharpening, and also in a hurry.  If they have someone else doing the sharpening, I expect they would want the condition of the knife to be better then that.
I think that sharper then most knives out of the package, would be wonderful to most of the users, of these lower cost knives if they choose to go the sharpening route, verses considering them as consumable.
I would have to talk to my neighbor about his chef's experience, and find out if it was like his carpenters experience, prior to him coming over to the USA.  That involved apprenticeship where he spent a lot of time just sharpening the tools.

As for the T-2's use without the guide, I do expect it would be used freehand, by any of those establishments with larger knives or things like cleavers.  So I don't think that is out of range of this tool.
Otherwise, my view is even if it takes a bit more time, or if they don't grind all the way back to the handle (how many use a full stroke of those knives), this would certainly prolong the use of the knives, before having to send them out to have them professionally sharpened.

I would love to see the coarse wheel, especially in comparison to the SG stone, and time for chip removal.  The coarse wheel should have a longer lifespan then the SG and I could see the potential benefit of using that for chip removal/blade reconfiguring (be interested in this on your chisel tests), then switch to the SG for fine grinding, then lastly the SJ stone. I do think this would be overkill for the average customer, but might be beneficial to those of us who like to find old/used tools and refurbish them.

While this will work on forged knives, I do expect there will be some that will be too thick for it.  You should see a circle with NSF on the blade if the knives are certified for commercial use. (Wusthof is the exception that I have seen, they don't place that mark on them) Wooden handles are not allowed, and riveted handles I have only seen on forged knives, must have non porous material for the handle (scales I believe is the term).  Forged knives the bolsters vary, and I expect those will be an issue, as they have been before, using the other model Tormeks.
So far all the stamped NSF certified knives I have seen, have a molded handle, and no bolster, and are lighter then the forged, which tends to be more comfortable to use all day in the kitchen.  These later knives, I believe to be the target audience of this machine.  I think their BESS readings, would be higher then a forged knives, due to the thickness issues.  However I think an experienced sharpener, or even a beginner who takes more time, could surpass them on a regular Tormek.
I also would be interested in seeing how this goes if using a completely dull knife (no edge, just plain steel).  I have a term for that kind of knife, as I was asked to eliminate the edge of one knife, for a "cake knife", that is loaned to customers who bring in birthday cakes, etc.  Good enough for a cake, and much harder for a kid to hurt themselves with.