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Hope you don't mind an "old thread" revival... (remember, I asked)....    but there's a lot of good info in it.

First, a picture to refer to (you can click on it for a larger view)...



First thing I wanted to point out, that when pivoting the blade (1 & 2 in the picture),,, on smaller blades it won't necessarily allow the belly/tip area to reach the LOC... but will drop below it.  So, length of the blade matters.

Second, depending on the setup, when you pivot the blade, you can actually "ride up" on part of the clamp (picture 3).  Can be avoided, but something to watch for.

The main reason I brought this thread up though, is honestly, even after reading thru this and the other related thread referenced... I've never been totally convinced that the original intent of the knife jig was to pivot the blade... but to merely lift the handle to follow the belly to tip area.  In part, based on Jeff Farris' video saying, lift don't rotate, (in fact he makes a point that pivoting is incorrect) and in part, it just doesn't seem a natural movement on many knives.  I understand the purpose... pivoting makes an attempt to maintain the same LOC... so the angle will stay the same... but am not really convinced that the curve of the stop on the jig was designed for this.  (I would swear that it wasn't even mentioned in the old manual... but maybe it's just Jeff's voice stuck in my head).

Lifting on the other hand, will also allow you to keep the same angle, depending on how you set up the clamp, (as seen in Jan's picture in this thread, although the pivot point would change), and to me, seems to be a more natural way to follow the shape of the knife when using the standard jig.  I try to illustrate in pictures 4 & 5... that when you lift the handle, you also change the orientation of the bevel in relation to the wheel... so that the angle is no longer totally dependent on where it is on the wheel, but also includes the "side angle" of the bevel in relation to the wheel.  Think of the extreme... if I stood to the side of the Tormek and sharpened a knife on top of and parallel to the wheel (doesn't have to be on top, but easier to visualize)... the angle would totally depend on the angle of the knife.  So, when setting the knife in the jig, by adjusting the belly/tip area closer or farther from the pivot point of the jig, this angle can be altered so that, even by merely lifting the handle...  the same (or at least similar) angle can be maintained throughout.  So, if you clamp the blade where the handle is lifted higher to reach the tip, you increase the angle... and the opposite if you clamp farther away from the tip.

It seemed in reading thru this thread, that the main focus was keeping the angle the same based on the LOC... and not what I'm describing.  And, obviously, I'm not saying pivoting doesn't work, (and it of course is the answer for freehanding where the blade is held level, or for Herman Trivilino's setup, etc.)... but I'm of the mind that with the standard jig setup, lifting the handle in many cases, may be the better option.

So, what say y'all? 

I was pleased to see the TTS setter modified for knives among your jigs.

That's my HanJig, serial number 1 !!

It appears your knife jigs have been modified too?  Any more info on that?

Kavik,

This seems like a workable solution for a small space. It could not only be a goid work stand for your Tormek, it could be a very compact, portable multipurpose table.

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=32759&cat=46158,42665&ap=1

Ken

I've tried a folding table like that... not really sturdy enough IMO.  (Machine makes them 'top heavy').

Edit to add:  If you're looking for a small portable table, this one (attached picture) isn't too bad... it 20"x30", height adjusts from 21-28", and is fairly stable.  (Personally though, I like the 4ft. portable tables better).

Thanks cbwx 
I like yours too, as a stationary unit.
I don't know if you ever travel with yours, but I've seen similar foam inserts you can buy for drawers that could keep your stuff from shifting around if you do
...

The toolbox is 20"x12"x8.5"... so it's portable... (close to the same size as yours).

I put in "non-skid" drawer liner... so things don't move around.

I like it.

I use a 3 drawer Toolbox...

I was hoping that photobucket would concede that it was a bad idea, and at least offer an alternative for previously hosted pics... but so far no go.

Personally, I think... for a company to make that big a jump (0 to $400)... there's probably a bigger issue behind it they're trying to survive.  Wouldn't surprise me if they go under.  So if you have pics you want... I'd download them sooner than later.  (Just my personal opinion).

I too, was a 'victim' of the photobucket debacle.  I've had good luck using imgbb,,, free and pretty simple.  (Not sure if there's a downside to it).

As I mentioned, this came with 3 knife jigs...which is a bit confusing. I can only find reference to 2 different sizes anywhere on tormek's site.
What I've got here is the svm140, then something that looks to be an older version of the svm45 (functions and measurements are the same, just no model number stamped on it).
The third looks just like the svm140, but is only 100mm wide.
So the question is, was this an old version of the long knife jig? Or is this something different?

Can anyone suggest a method for sharpening a round knife / head knife?
It's a thin flat bladed knife with a semi circular edge, about 4-5" in diameter.
Here's an example on amazon
I don't have one here to experiment with yet, but looking to get one soon and just thinking ahead.  I don't expect it to be long enough to use the tool rest without the handle hitting the rest

Congrats on your purchase.  Sounds like a great deal.

This is the only part I can answer... the 100mm was an older version replaced by the 140mm "long knife jig".

I'll be interested if someone has an answer for the knife you linked to.  I have something similar... the only way I could do it on the Tormek was freehand... very carefully.

BTW, I think if you register on the main Tormek website, you can download an updated version of the manual.  Tons of info in the forum though... I'm finding new 'gems' every day.

Enjoy!

Thanks for the input.  It has inspired an idea to add a section of "commercial sharpening tips" (coming soon).  I too, have benefited over the years from Steve's knowledge... his "Sharpening Made Easy" book is also full of info, and was glad to see he put a few videos on YouTube (I linked to some already... more to come).

Thanks!

Started a blog post of links/references for sharpening knives on the Tormek... mainly to organize the excellent threads and posts I'm finding here.  Link will be in my signature, and will update it periodically.

Would love input, if you have a favorite thread, post, video etc.... any reference that would be of value!   

Thanks!

The angles are marked on the wheel from the top in 5˚ or 10˚ increments (your choice).  (Every .436in. or 10.90mm is 5˚ on a 250mm or 10in. stone, if my math is right).

Close enough. I'm getting about 10.91 mm or 0.429 in.

What are you using for a laser?

Thanks for checking my math.  (You're right, I used 10" instead of the correct 9.84" of a 250mm stone). 

The laser is a Black & Decker BDL220S.

My .02... I think cost and intended use are probably the main factors.  Space (mainly storage) would have to be at a premium... since, in use, you still need pretty much the same amount of room to work.  If mainly used for knives, (like me), the added jigs are of little value.  (I've maintained my stones with an XXC DMT for years, and have been able to keep it true, at least enough for knives... probably not accurate enough for the other uses though).  For the home user, cost of the larger stones may not be worth it, since you may never "wear out" even the smaller stone of the T-4.  So, lower cost, light use, and type of sharpening (knives) may point to the T-4.  And of course the reverse... heavier use, sharpening more than knives, need for the included accessories, etc. point to the T-8.  (That's my take anyway).

Well heck, this was simpler than the clamp...   



... and shows better on the stone.  I also partially covered the laser lens with tape, so it only shines on the stone, and not across the housing. Less distracting. There's also a "drill stop collar" on the support where it goes into the housing... between that and tightening the knob, it stays steady.  (Forgot to point it out before).

(BTW the laser is a Black & Decker BDL220s I got at the local hardware store... it has a magnet in the base.  Just checked... still around after all these years!) 

Cbwx, be careful not to scratch the USB.

I have dealt with similar considerations as you, but without a specific output. The form of the adjustable stop was designed for easy sharpening of typical knife belly.

Jan

Haven't noticed any scratches... but I'll keep an eye out.  Thanks.

I agree about the stop, and thought about trying to modify the KME jig to see if I could fit it on there... but decided probably not worth the effort.  (Maybe later).

I can set a knife to just "lift the handle" of the knife in most cases, to adequately cover the belly/tip area, (although I know rotating is usually the better option).

Interesting info about the "continuous duty".  Thanks.

Any reason why the SiC Blackstone wouldn't make it to the T-4?