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Another "deceptive title" video... this one is actually a pretty decent condensed interview with Larrin Thomas (who invented Magnacut steel) that covers several factors including: different steels, parameters, blade geometry, etc...

Larrin Thomas is also the founder of the website Knife Steel Nerds.

 

I don't usually just post links to videos, but ran across these and thought the titles were a bit deceptive... he actually does a decent job of going thru all the steps for sharpening a chisel...

... and on to the SJ stone...

... so thought I'd pass them along!

Here's a good example of why I use (and recommend) a ceramic rod vs. a honing steel...

(Also some good info on burrs.)

Tormek has a FAQ section that they show as a "Tormek Support Forum" where they answer questions directly, that I hadn't really paid attention to...

https://faq.tormek.com/org/tormek/

Not sure why they have a separate forum here and there, but it's worth a look... since the questions are directly answered by Tormek personnel.

(December 5th, click on the link for your local time)
Just wanted to beat Ken

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NEW PRODUCT RELEASE - EXCLUSIVE DESIGN COLLAB
Tormek T-1 Florentine Vibrant - A Colorful Collab
You sharpen with your eyes first. That's why Tomer Botner, founder of the Barcelona-based knife-making studio @FlorentineKitchenKnives, have created a handle for the Tormek T-1 in his distinctive, colorful style.
The vibrantly colorful handle contrasts the machine's subtly industrial design and makes it an eye-catching addition to any kitchen. Complement it with a matching Florentine Kitchen Knives paring knife with a striped handle from the same carefully selected palette.
Florentine Kitchen Knives has long used Tormek's water-cooled sharpening system in the production of their high-end knives. This time instead it is Tomer's eye for design and Florentine Kitchen Knives' genuine craftsmanship that has resulted in the Tormek T-1 Florentine Vibrant. The handles are randomly assembled from a specific palette, which means that no two machines are identical but have their own fingerprint. The collaboration has also been immortalized by stamping both brands' logos into the fully cast zinc housing.
Now available at shop.tormek.com

 Just an FYI... 

[If you set the USB height by measuring directly to the wheel, none of this matters.]

If you set the USB height by measuring directly to the wheel, none of this matters.


If you want to measure to the top of the MB-102 to set the USB height, like this...

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... these are the "Constant" measurements I got...

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^{(Constants input into Calcapp)}

...with the legs pressed against the vertical part of the main frame of the Tormek...

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...YMMV (depending on how you set it up). 


Again, if you measure directly to the wheel, this isn't needed.

In a wsj article....

"The Grinder"...   

3. The Grinder
If you can make room for a nearly 12-pound machine, the Tormek T-1 Kitchen Knife Sharpener ($357) involves a nice amount of hands-on work. Its guide provides a surface to rest your knife against as you slide it across the main rotating wheel. An extra honing wheel finishes the job.

 

Ran across this in a FB group...

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https://www.facebook.com/groups/251233948371661/permalink/2380392172122484
(Unfortunately, you have to join the group to see the post.)

Sort of a variation of a Platform Jig I suppose.  Haven't tried it, just thought I'd pass it along! 

T-4 with a 210mm wheel installed...

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... only "mod" was to put a small block under the water trough to raise it up.  (I also put a piece a tape on it so it wouldn't move around during use.)

Only downside is the stone has to be removed to install/remove the water trough.

Sharpened a couple of knives, didn't see any issues. (You might need the longer USB for some knives?)

(Do I have hard water?) 

Edit:  Thought I'd add a link to another post where a SG-250 wheel was put on a T-4...
https://forum.tormek.com/index.php/topic,3344.msg20259.html#msg20259

Tormek posted this in FB with the caption Something is Coming...

    

Apparently Tormek is starting a new series... here's the first one:

[Live Sharpening Class: Recurved Blades]

Live Sharpening Class: Recurved Blades

Many of the previous viewers have requested us to do this specific episode. So by popular demand we will show you how to master the techniques of sharpening recurved blades on your Tormek sharpening system. We'll also touch upon different tips and tricks to sharpen other curved blades such as gut openers, paring knives or scythes.

Prepare your questions and tune in on the live tomorrow, Wednesday! 😊

When?
Wednesday, September 7th, 3.30 sharp!😉

(3.30 PM, Swedish time, CEST / 9.30 AM, US Eastern Time, ET)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aw4vJSUPXmk

Both pics are from the Tormek website...



Did the wheel change?  (And is it diamond coated on the side?)

I was messing with jvh's new TormekCalc version, and thought that "BatchCalc" could be used as a quicker way to set the USB height.  (Still thinking about the alternative to setting the Projection with the new jig ala Kenjig, especially for commercial sharpeners).  My thought was this...

• Measure and set the USB based on the lowest Projection Distance (PD) you're likely to use. (yellow markings)
• Place a clamp above the Microadjust, so it's sitting right on the top of it.
• Enter BatchCalc, which tells you the number of turns to change the Microadjust, based on a new PD.  You can set this in seconds.  But don't move the clamp. (green markings).  You could make a cheat sheet as an alternative.  Since you started at the lowest position, you'll always be going up.
• If/when you need to set the USB for a new PD, just spin it back down to the clamp, then make the new adjustment.

Not much different than adjusting the Projection Distance?  I tried it out, seemed pretty simple and quick.  Measure once, you're good for the session.

With all the "concern" about the new KJ not having an adjustable Stop Collar (having one can speed up the process, especially in a commercial setting), will it mark the return of, or should I say, advancement of the Platform Jig?  And if so...



... would you use it?    (It can be customized for "home builds" within reason...)    I know most will say, "let's wait and see", just tossing out the idea. 

p.s.  If your answer is, "What's a Platform Jig?"... this thread will take you down the rabbit hole. 

I (of course) ordered one of Rich's FVBs.  As expected, high quality, and I especially like "no threads" on the insert rods.  Makes everything slide smoothly, and fits like a glove.  (Helluva lot better than the one I made a few years ago...    ).

The only thing I'd point out is insert it with the "Colvin Tools" engraving on the bottom, otherwise it slides in too far.  See the pics  (Seems upside down to me, cause I put it in the other way first,    but no biggie).  I'm assuming this is correct.



A nice bonus is that Rich includes the settings needed for TormekCalc.

Goes without saying (but I'll say it anyway)... nice job!   

Edit:  Forgot to add the link:  https://colvintools.com/Tormek-FVB.html

I've seen it before, but I was watching the "Tormek T-4 Bushcraft" sharpening class, and they made such a point of it, I thought I'd use it as an example.

In the video, Wolfgang shows clamping the blade in the normal manner (Picture 1), with the edge of the clamp parallel to the edge of the knife.

But then he shows (paraphrased here) that in order to properly sharpen the curved (belly to tip) area, he angles the knife in the clamp, parallel to an imaginary line from the heel to the tip (Picture 2).

Now the result of this in theory, would be to change the rotation point of the clamp.

But, when he goes to sharpen the knife, he uses their standard technique of lifting the handle to sharpen the belly to tip area.  No rotation involved.

Here's my thoughts on this...

As I said above, if you sharpen by lifting the handle, there is no need for this... it doesn't change anything, since the rotation point is at the center of the jig.

Using the imaginary line, especially on the stock jig setup, is not correct, even if you do rotate the knife to reach the belly to tip area, because it puts the rotation point in the wrong spot, and it also moves the rotation spot during sharpening (as you rotate the blade the rotation point changes).

Prove me wrong.

p.s.  The 2nd example actually originated from another clamp style sharpener years ago, in an effort to properly sharpen the belly to tip area... and worked more by coincidence than it did setting the knife properly.

Surprised it hasn't been mentioned already (or maybe it has?)...

Tormek on TikTok

... and can you sharpen it?

USA Today article-Sharp Wood Knife cuts better than steel