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Hi all. New here and to the Tormek world. I'm sore these types of questions have been asked before but I was hoping for some direct advice.

Today I picked up a T-3 with some nice accessories for a good deal. Could easily make money selling it. I don't turn and it came with a TNT-808 turning kit which I'll likely sell.

What's the difference between this and a T-4 or T-8?  Wheels smaller? 

Wondering if I should invest in this T-3 or hold out for a different model.

I'd like to use this mainly for planer blade and chisels. Was hoping to located a cheap rough shaping wheel to remove defects/material. Heard about sourcing from China made sharpeners.

Thanks! 

If you can sell the T-3 for a profit, and invest that money into a T-4 or T-8, that is the route I would take.  The T-3 had issues with the "plastic" casing, for example, it was from a Tormek rep that...

T-3 had a plastic housing witch was not as stable (compared to the T-4) with its vertical and horizontal sleeves.

... the result being that the T-4 is advertised as "Precision improved 300%".

There's also an issue with heat and the casing, so the 30 min. "duty cycle" applies to the T-3, which was eliminated with the T-4's zinc casing.

Sizewise, the T-3 and T-4 are the same, the main (and important) difference is the change in casing.  The T-8 is a larger model.

I'd only keep the T-3 if you only plan on using it for light work.

p.s.  I don't think registering your Tormek gives you access to the manual yet, (the link was broken in the website update), but you can access it HERE

... A working app for the iPhone would be great!!!

-DON-

The Calcapp Calculators work on the iPhone. 

I just bought this knife: https://bernalcutlery.com/products/copy-of-new-vintage-canadian-15cm-6-chef-carbon-rosewood-50s

It's 14.5" long. Will the normal knife jig work or do I need the bigger one?

The length doesn't matter... it's whether or not the knife flexes.

TormekCalc is an amazingly detailed and excellent app, but I find it way more than I need and unless one spends the time to really figure out what is going on, way more difficult to use than I care to go through. 

There are other calculators where it is easier to find, although I could not in CB's Calcapp.  I use his older and possibly no longer available "Go Calc" app that shows USB to Wheel right on the main screen. 

Maybe CB can post an image of where to find it in an angle calculator that is much easier to use, such as Calcapp. 

Rick

USB to Wheel is present on every relevant calculator page in Calcapp, for example...

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... the only difference from GoCalc is you first pick the calculator you want to use from the main menu.  The picture shows the "2 in 1 Calculator"... probably the one used the most.

...
but I don't see the 'ease of use' for this distance preprogrammed into TormekCalc, am I missing this somewhere or are you using different software?
...

"T-USB" is the measurement directly to the wheel in TormekCalc (in the column under the wheel size)...


If you want to know what the arrows are for, see this post. 

[Edit:]

...
Working with the Tormek has been an important part of my life since 2009. I think I could contnue if I switch to a sitting position. Your thoughts and suggestions will be most appreciated.

Take a look at some of Knifegrinders videos... he had his Tormek sitting on what I think he said was a motorcycle maintenance stand or something like that, and sat behind it on a stool.  There's an example in this video...

Edit:  Found where he described it:  Stand for Tormek of a dirt bike stand

Yes - I came to that conclusion. If you look at the Tormek product description it is listed on the regular T8 but not on the Black. No big deal really.

Probably want users to use the insert with the cutouts to store everything.

I have been looking for the metal plate referred to in the T-8 getting started guide that came with my T8 Black but there does not seem to be one. Is this deliberate? Maybe they thought that it would mar the clean black look of the anniversary edition???

Seeing that it's not in the description video... my guess is it doesn't come with one.

Probably better than chopsticks...
...snip...
    

Ha, I like it. Have you actually used it this way?  Did it work?  I think, when the need comes up (these things are usually ("when, not if"), I'll give that a try.

Only for that one knife, and yes it worked, but I'm sure there's better ideas.  Like I said, I just did it to inspire some.

TBH, I rarely use the SVM-00 anymore, like someone said earlier... easier just to freehand them, or use the Platform (not a jig) jig. 

....
The question I have is not about the alignment aspect, rather how well the packings you speak of can actually maintain the alignment sought.  Based on the posted photos, I cannot determine what those "packings" are and how they hold the knife in the desired position.  As far as I can tell, all that is shown is the alignment pieces. 

Rick

Probably better than chopsticks...

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Why couldn't you just have the piece that slides onto the SVM jig, then have the lower piece with the V shape come up and center the edge... that should be enough to center the blade for "packing" the handle and clamping?  I'm not sure you'd need more than that and spine to edge taper wouldn't matter.

Did the 4000 prove that the other versions were not really knife sharpeners?
If so, how?

Looking at the photo, there is an AWT-250 water trough.I am not sure if this was part of the original T4000. It is possible; however, it was also included with T7s starting some time around 2010 and has always been part of the T8.
(My original T7 from August 2009 had the original, smaller water trough. After it was stolen, the replacement I purchased had the AWT-250.)

The SG-250 and leather honing wheel shown were also standard issue on all T7s and now on the T8 Original.

The US-400 support bar shown was never standard issue with the T8, although an improved version, the US-430, has been available as an optional extra for several years.(The US-430 has the same longer bar. the two legs are 50mm longer for sharpenng cleavers.)

The frame of the T4000 was stainless steel and longer, both desirable features.
However, the machined zinc frames and EZYlock shafts of today's Tormeks have essentially eliminated the advantage of stainless and provide more precise alignment. Using a FVB and US-430, I can easily sharpen and hone my longest knife, a ten inch chef's knife, even with my T4.

Tormek has developed some remarkable jigs for woodworking and turning tools. However, there are no specialty machines for these tools. By contrast, the Tormek lineup now includes two specialty machines for different segments of the knife sharpening market. Tormek has added the self centering KJ knife jigs and a new setting jig is in the development pipeline.

Tormek put heavy research and development in the T2 for the restaurant market. This included working with the Swedish Culinary Team and customers in Sweden before announcing it globally. making the frame longer would not have been a major issue for the design team. I have to believe the design team had sound technical reasons for not using a longer frame. The T2 has a knife jig specially designed for it and comes with a diamond wheel and composite honing wheel, both Tormek's latest innovations. I have no doubt that Tormek will eventually introduce modifications and relacement models for the zt2, as they have for their entire lineup. I have already seen this with my T7 and most of the jigs and accessories I originally purchased. The old ones still work as well as ever; the new ones just work better.

Ken

For starters it was labeled as a "knife grinder"...

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...  and while the T-4000 does share parts that the T-8 does... the design itself (that you dismiss in a single sentence) is what makes the difference.  Mainly, the added distance between wheels means you don't have to add/remove wheels to get knives to fit, or angle knives to avoid hitting the opposite wheel, etc.  Two vertical USB supports add versatility (although even that part would need tweaking.)  Your comparison is akin to saying a car is as good as a pickup for hauling supplies... since they both share a lot of the same features.

It would be interesting to learn why it was discontinued.  I suspect that it was ahead of its time... many years ago, based on the old Yahoo Tormek group, knives were seldom mentioned.  It's what led one member to write a post way back in 2005, to inspire more Tormek users to use it to sharpen knives.

As for the T-2, I'm pretty sure it was primarily designed for ease of use, and for use in the commercial kitchen, not for a professional knife sharpener.  It's more of a maintenance sharpener, vs what the T-4 or T-8 is capable of.

[Constant HH]

I'm working on setting up my 8" slow speed Rikon bench grinder for sharpening drill bits using the DBS-22 drill bit jig.  I am curious if there is a height difference of the USB bar, relative to the machine shaft centerline when set up on the two sizes of Tormek machines, T8 and T4.  This could be a question pertaining to other jigs as well, for example, if Tormek designed them to be the same. 

I measured my T8, with the USB set up in the horizontal (front) slots and distanced from a true 250mm grinding wheel using the Tormek lip clearance angle template, per the instructions.  Distance between the USB centerline and the machine shaft centerline was about 4cm.  Measured it by measuring from the bench top surface to each centerline and subtracted (24.3cm - 20.3cm = 4cm).

If someone with a T4 and the DBS-22 could set up the USB for the DBS-22 and measure the these heights, I would really appreciate it. 

Part of why I ask is that I'm using an FVB in a BGM-100 setup in the horizontal position and a standard USB vertical in the FVB, so I have no reference this height so the drill point addresses the wheel in an orientation similar to on the Tormeks.  Instructions for setting up the BGM-100 do not address the sort of setup I'm working with, putting the USB well below the centerline of the grinder. 

Rick

I guess I'm not sure what you want... 'cause it sounds like all you want is the distance between the center of the USB in the horizontal position, to the center of the driveshaft... Constant HH in jvh's diagram...

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... which on the T-4 I measure as 29mm.  But I don't need a DBS-22 to measure that, so I don't know if that is what you want?  (If not, maybe show in a pic or diagram.)

Thank you for your responses about my noise concerns and freehand sharpening.

Any thoughts on the diamond wheel vs. the stone grinding wheels. The diamond wheel is pricey, but it doesn't get worn away apparently. Also, less mess? I believe there's a magnetic in the tray that collects the dust. Does it get really sludgy with the grinding wheel? I mention this because I sharpen onsite at stores and businesses and not in a workshop. The only thing I am dealing currently with the belt grinder is the metal dust.

Also, the comment about taking more time to sharpen. Never considered that. Can you expand on that? Right now it takes like 2 - 3 minutes to max to sharpen a very dull 8" chefs knife with a course grit belt, then a fine belt and stropping. Is it the speed of the rotation of the T8 that makes it take longer?

Thank you!!!

I'd go with the standard wheel... and never worry about grading it back and forth to change the grit... just leave it in its "natural" state.  It will still need to be trued occasionally, but that can be done at home.  While the diamond stone won't change diameter, it will still "wear" and will need to be replaced over time.

As for time... I ran across a company a few years back Jansen Sharpening, that from what I could tell, did most of the sharpening and repairs on a Tormek, set up at a farmer's market.  Might be worth trying to contact them for some real world experience?  I didn't mean the Tormek was necessarily "slow", just slower than you're probably used to.  I guess it depends on the volume you do in a day.

Definitely contact support...

https://forum.tormek.com/index.php/topic,3285