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Topics - Ken S

#681
General Tormek Questions / Tormek mirror technique
March 15, 2013, 09:48:46 AM
This you tube of a luthier (I believe in Swedish with English subtitles) shows the luthier sharpening a chisel with a Tormek (at about 2 min, 20 sec and toward the end).  He uses a mirror to check his progress.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TryJtirFFME

Ken
#682
I am submitting this for forum evaluation as a start for our beginner advice sticky message.  I welcome constructive criticism, suggested additions, deletions, or changes.  I also welcome other posts. 

My suggestion would be to have this and other submitted posts available for forum criticism.  Once we feel comfortable with a reasonably "final" version (which can still be easily changed if necessary) I would give Jeff full moderator prerogative to edit, add or delete.

Please be part of the process.

Ken


Using a Tormek is like driving a stick shift car.  There is a bit of a learning curve, one which thousands of users have completed successfully.  Here is our advice to develop your "clutch foot".

Spend some time becoming very familiar with the videos on the tormek.com and sharptoolsusa.com websites.  You may have found them before even purchasing your Tormek.  Read your Tormek handbook; do not be afraid to make it your own by highlighting and flagging.  Keep it nearby.

Every Tormek user should have a Sharpie marker. The Sharpie marker, as shown in the videos and handbook, allows the user to quickly verify grinding angles.  It is an essential tool.

The first tool you should learn to sharpen is a chisel.  Regardless of what your intended use for your Tormek, if you can sharpen a chisel proficiently and fluently, you can learn other tools. A chisel is the  simplest edge to grind.  It is ground square, not angled.  The bevel angle of 25 to 30 degrees is an easy range to duplicate.  Unlike most knives, only one bevel is ground.  The full range of the Tormek is used in sharpening a chisel, initial grinding with the stone graded coarse; finer grinding with the stone graded fine; and finally, stropped with the leather honing wheel.
 
An excellent first chisel is the Irwin 3/4" Blue Chip chisel.  Why an Irwin 3/4" Blue Chip chisel?  During various posts on this forum, 3/4" has emerged as the most practical width chisel for learning how to use the Tormek.  The Blue Chip chisel has enough blade length to be a very usable first learning tool. The steel is good carbon steel. The sides are also ground square to the back of the blade with no rounding over (which would interfere with preparing the back for sharpening).  Irwin acquired Joseph Marples, the fine company which had made these good chisels for a very long time.  And, on a very practical level, these chisels are very reasonably priced.  At this writing they are available on Amazon for $8.51.  A set of four (1/4 to 1" is also available for about $25 for those who would like several practice chisels.  They are also working standard tools in many shops.

Do not just sharpen this chisel once before moving on.  Blunt the edge with a hammer or file several times and restore the edge until you become proficient.  During these practice sessions you will learn a lot about machine.  Learn to listen to the sound of the grinding.  Learn to become sensitive to the feel of the  grinding.  Learn to be consistent in setting up your machine.  Learn what a truly sharp edge is, and what it can do.

Even if you do not intend to do woodworking, go through these exercises with your chisel.  And, keep the chisel nearby.  Should a day come when your sharpening is going badly, you can always return to sharpening your chisel. This will simplify your troubleshooting.  If you can match your initial sharpening, your basic machine and wheel are functioning properly.  If not, this exercise will point you in the correct direction to solve the problem.

Getting a mindset for the grinding wheel:

All too often, new users approach the grinding wheel with a sense of reverence and feel a need to preserve it.  While proper use is important, it should be remembered that the grinding wheel is designed to be worn away during use.  Look at the wheel as you would a set of good tires or brake linings.  Good care extends their useful life, however, they are designed to be worn out.

The Tormek wheel is designed to be used as either a coarse wheel or a finer wheel, depending on how the grading stone is used.  The wheel actually has a third grading when freshly dressed with the TT-50 diamond dresser (more coarse).   Do not try to squeeze a bit more life out of your wheel or a bit of time off the sharpening operation by skipping the grading operation.  Proper use of the grader is well covered in the videos and handbook.  Follow these instructions!

Be patient and persevere.  Your Tormek skills will quickly develop.  Please feel free to participate in the forum.  We welcome you.
#683
Back during the time period when Ionut made his small knife blade jig, I posted a couple ideas.  One was for a wooden jig, similar to Ionut's.  The other was essentially sawing an SVD-110 in half.  That would allow a small blade to be held on either side of the wheel, as the table would be about the same width as the wheel.

I purchased a second SVD-110 at the time, and never got around to finish the jig. 

Herman inspired me with his jig.

this afternoon I got out the SVD-110s.  one had two holes for holding screws.  I measured off a line about 1 7/8" from one side and headed toward the bandsaw.  My 1/2" 3 tpi blade made short work of the cut through the extruded aluminum.  Surprisingly, the cut was almost as smooth as the factory cut.

I knew I would need to turn the jig around to get close enough to the wheel.  I had purchased a regular 6mm short bolt to substitute for the Tormek knob.

Alas, the bolt was still too long.  I ground down the bolt on the belt grinder.  Still too long.  I filed down the threaded surface on the jig.  Still too long.  At this point I am unable to get close enough for a 20 degree bevel.

I have not given up.  I will attach something, either wood or metal on top of the jig.  It will work in time.  For now, I have an SVD-110, an SVD-70 and an SVD-45.  (wow!)

still plugging along.....

Ken
#684
Here is a thought for our stickie file:

I believe the beginning Tormek user should start with a Sharpie marker and a chisel.  I state this recommendation for all new Tormek users, not just woodworkers.

Specifically, I would recommend an Irwin 3/4" Blue Chip chisel.  These are readily available and not expensive (presently $8.51 at Amazon).  Blue Chips, formerly made by Joseph Marples of England (now part of Irwin) have been a solid chisel for many years.  The steel is well made carbon, ideal for the Tormek SG wheel.  They are a good working length, not excessively long, but with plenty of sharpening area.

The sides are ground square to the back with no rounding over to interfere with flattening.  These are an excellent learning tool as well as a very good user.

I recommend learning to sharpen a chisel first because it is the simplest edge tool.  It is ground square.  There is no camber to grind like with a plane blade.  Only one bevel is ground, unlike a knife blade.  The chisel fits easily in the basis SE-76 jig.

General chisel sharpening uses the coarse wheel setting, fine wheel setting, and leather honing.  It requires learning to be able to set a bevel and work square.

I believe when a new user can consistently sharpen a chisel well, he will be ready to move on to whatever tools he requires.

The use of the Sharpie marker for setting the bevel angle is well covered in both the handbook and Jeff's videos.  A dedicated sharpie should be kept with the Tormek.

Do not be hesitant to sharpen the Blue Chip chisel many times as part of the initial learning process.

Ken
#685
General Tormek Questions / initial dressing
March 07, 2013, 05:26:55 PM
With our "quick start guide" in mind, I am wondering whether or not to include a recommendation to use the diamond dresser before initial grinding.  My unsupported dry grinding memory would indicate this would be a good practice to true the stone with the grinder.

I find no mention of this in the Tormek handbook.  Early in the book, it states that "A grindstone can, after a period of use, become uneven on its sruface and run out of true."  it then suggests using the TT-50 diamond dresser.

The TT-50 itself doesn't appear in my copy until page 139.

I recall carefully using the TT-50 to initially true the wheel on my first Tormek. I don't recall doing so with my second unit.  (both were purchased new).  I don't recall any difference in the performance.  (Except less operator with the second unit)

My question is, should a recommendation for initial truing of the stone be included in our guide, or omitted? If it serves no practical value, i would like to keep things simple.  Comments?

Ken
#686
I have read several posts recommending using cheap tools for learning.  Although I see the logic of this advice, I disagree. 

While the paper cutting test an thumbnail test are certainly good indicators of sharpness, I believe the final test comes at the workbench or cutting board.  A wise cooking dictum states that one should never use a wine for cooking one would not drink.  I believe that should apply to using a Tormek, right from the start.  I'm not saying one should necessarily start with  the very best tools, however, the initial tools should at least be tools one would use in good work. 

The initial knife used with the Tormek should be the knife you use on a regular basis on your cutting board.  I was pleased to read the recent comment that "I do a lot of cooking".  That is so important; the feedback on your knives should come from you actually using them on a regular basis.

The same applies with chisels and other tools.  Whether your chisels are used for rough work of hand cutting dovetails, you should learn to use your Tormek using the actual field tools.  In theory this could shorten the tool life. In actual practice I believe we would learn more carefully and thoroughly using our good tools.

I was delighted to feel the results of finally becoming proficient with my knife jig.  My knives make easy work of tomatoes and onions.  (One also made a very sharp incision on one of my finger tips, not so good, but very sharp.)

Ken
#687
I found this in our archives, and thought it might be interesting and relevant for those who want to flatten their backs:


Hand Tool Woodworking / Re:Not just for TORMEK -- LET'S TALK HANDTOOLS!
« on: December 23, 2003, 10:16:57 pm »
Just to clarify my approach to sharpening.  I use the Tormek for grinding only, despite having had an excellent half morning's session with Torgny Yansson!

My sharpening is done on 800 and 8000grit waterstones.


Many people who come on my courses have done irrepairable damage to the flat side/back of their blades before arrival.  Please beware of rounding the flat side on hollow waterstones, or even the scary sharp method.
David Charlesworth.
#688
I know ow exciting it is to open the box of a Tormek.  The energy flows and the natural impulse is to set up, grab an edged object, and have at it.

May I make a more boring suggestion?  Before setting up the machine, read the included book very carefully.  It's your book.  Don't be afraid to highlight, underline or use tape bookmarks.   

Most of the common beginner problems are covered in the book.  They are not always covered  thoroughly enough to circumvent a hands on learning curve, however, having a good working knowledge of the book will generally keep you on the right track.

If you are reading this before your Tormek arrives, make sure you have a Sharpie marker.  this simple little marker will be invaluable in your learning curve.  It will keep you on target with setting bevels. 
Do not shortcut it!

Do not try to avoid using the stone grader.  I include myself in the large group of (foolish) users who tried to avoid using the stone grader in the hope of making my precious grinding wheel last longer.  The wheel is a consumable.  It is designed to be worn down and replaced.  A key word here is "eventually".  That might be a very long time.  Has anyone on the forum actually worn out a wheel through use?

Before leaving this topic, the way to stretch the life of a wheel is regular and careful dressing.  Using the whole surface of the wheel instead of wearing a narrow groove helps, too.


I must leave to pick up my granddaughter at school.  I hope this gets the ball rolling.  Please feel free to comment and add.

Ken

#689
I have wondered about who began this forum and that person's intentions for it.

I have only been a member since 2009. At that time, no one had posted the fifty posts in order to qualify as a junior member.  Of those actively posting at that time, only Herman and I are still active.  The most active posts only had around twenty postings.

After a very cursory glance, it would appear the forum may have begun in 2003.  (That's when Jeff's data should his membership began.)  I am curious as to how much Tormek AB in Sweden has been involved in either the startup or ongoing direction of the forum.  I would also be interested in learning the founding expectation "parameters" for the forum.

I have not seen any posts from anyone directly associated with Tormek AB.  I have received two emails from an official in the company in Sweden.  I had posted a comment critical (in  a constructive way) of what I believed was a lack of video training aids.  For the record, I still feel that lack remains.

The founders apparently did not envision having photos included with posts.  While this may have been more difficult in 2003, I have not seen any effort put forth by the forum administration to facilitate posting photographs.

I have continued my grumbling about the lack of good training material in several private intraforum emails.  I believe Tormek AB is missing a very good opportunity to increase sales by leaving so many users lacking confidence.  I think it would be a fine addition to this forum to include solid training materials presented in an organized way which would not necessitate the iffy search protocols.

My impish side thought we should offer this help in at least two languages.  I would call them "fish and chips" and "Big Mac".  We are, after all, "two nations divided by a common language".  Including local terms together with explanation would add spice to the learning.

I have doubts as to who would take charge of such a project.  While we have some enthusiastic helpers, in my opinion, the only person on this forum with the breadth and depth of Tormek knowledge and field experience is Jeff.  Such a project might involve a lot more time than administering a forum.  To do the project well should involve photos, illustrations, and video. 

Perhaps a good start would be an article about setting up the Tormek and sharpening a chisel.  A second article might be sharpening and maintaining knives.

Because of the nature of the forum, the project could start small and evolve.

I welcome your thoughts.

Ken
#690
General Tormek Questions / knife jig
February 27, 2013, 08:04:40 PM
When I purchased my first Tormek in 2009, the knife jig was the first accessory I added.  When  first looked at it, I noticed the sloppy casting and was not impressed.  I tried it with one of my knives with so so results, and put it away. I went back to my preferred method of using a 1000 grit waterstone.

Recently I have been thinking I should give the knife jig another chance.  I may have not properly factored in the possibility of operator inexperience.

Today was that second chance.  Either the jig improved with hibernation or my skills may have grown.  Within a very short time four of my favorite kitchen knives are now paper cutting sharp. I am impressed.  I took out my trusty six inch mill file and smoothed up the casting.  (Maybe my jig was made on a Friday or another less than optimum time.)  The sloppy casting is now forgotten.

If anyone in Sweden is reading this, not cleaning up the casting does not leave a positive first impression.  Fortunately examining the EZYlock shaft was much more impressive.

Ken
#691
I am in the process of rehabbing my closets.  I really like the versatility of Closetmaid adjustable shelving.

In the past, I have hung the vertical supports using a level.  Since the move last year, I am now starting with the horizontal support bars.  That lets me place the vertical supports without being so dependent upon screwing them into a stud.

I finally purchased a twelve bolt impact driver.  What a tool!  No more aerobic exercises with a screwdriver.  I have an older drill driver, but never liked worrying about camming out the screw.  The impact driver does a much better job.

As a homeowner, I appreciate the smaller, lighter size of the twelve volt tools. The new llithium batteries seem much improved over the old ni-cads.

I purchased a close out.  The company (Milwaukee) has redesigned the tools with improved brushless motors.  Ideally, I would have purchased the improved models.  However, for my use, last year's tradesman models are more than sufficient.  I don't predict much use for my longtime favorite Yankee screwdrivers in the future.

Ken
#692
General Tormek Questions / a question for Jeff
February 20, 2013, 01:54:59 AM
Jeff,

Would you please post your demo schedule on the forum?  I believe many of us, myself included, would enjoy meeting you and watching you put the Tormek through its paces.  It would be an enjoyable learning experience.

A lot of the shows also feature discounts.  We might even bring our wallets (and our knives with broken points!).

Thanks,

Ken
#693
Hand Tool Woodworking / really sharp
February 16, 2013, 11:46:10 AM
When I was a kid, I remember a billboard for a Pennsylvania Dutch restaurant that read, "Get to know what good is."

I believe these two short videos from Fine Woodworking show "what sharp is".

http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/106038/9-reasons-why-i-dont-sharpen-my-plane-blades-as-well-as-i-thought?&lookup=auto&V18=&V19=&V20=&V21=&V22=&V23=&V24=&V25=&V26=&V53=&V54=&Taun_Per_Flag=true&utm_source=email&utm_medium=eletter&utm_content=20130216-nonsense-knife&utm_campaign=fine-woodworking-eletter

Enjoy, 

Ken
#694
General Tormek Questions / new electronic on of switch
November 25, 2012, 01:13:32 AM
I saw this in the description of the T 7 in the Black Friday sale ad:

"new electronic on/off safety switch"

I wasn't aware of any problems with the older switch.  Does anyone know why the switch was switch, and when?

Ken

#695
Wood Turning / see posting in hand tools
September 28, 2012, 12:46:10 PM
I think the turners would enjoy the link to the video I posted in hand tools.

Ken
#696
I enjoyed this, and thought the forum would, also.  The program includes an interview with President Carter and wood turning.

http://thehighlandwoodworker.com/?et_mid=581752&rid=5728235

Ken
#697
Bradley, you mention using the Shapton stones.  I have used the Norton water stones for quite a while with good success.  (Better success since I do the initial work on the Tormek).

I have wondered if the finer Shapton stones (above 8000) give a noticeably longer lasting edge?  Have you noticed anything one way or another?

Thanks,

Ken
#698
Drill Bit Sharpening / DBS-22 thoughts
August 31, 2012, 12:37:44 AM
I finally had a chance to fire up my DBS-22 (drill bit grinding jig).  As promised, here are my initial thoughts on the jig.

The jig seems very well engineered and well machined.  Impressive.  It also seems very versatile.  I suspect its versatility is largely wasted on average users, although anyone doing a lot of specialized metal drilling would appreciate its flexibility.

Set up is not as difficult as one might think.  Developing a "by the numbers" mind set helps in set up.  Another help is keeping things as simple as possible.  The example which comes to mind is the point angle setting.  The jig will handle angles from ninety to one hundred and fifty degrees.  I would suggest leaving the 118 degree setting fixed until one has really mastered the jig.

The distance between the grinding wheel and the Universal Support Bar is easily set with the included template.  Set it and let it remain a constant instead of a variable.

The protrusion of the drill bit beyond the holder is set with a stop on the jig.  This is another smart constant. 

By leaving the point angle at the standard 118 degrees and leaving USB distance and bit protrusion as designed, the jig is noticeably simpler to use. 

The same template used to set the USB distance is also used to set the clearance angle.  It has four settings from seven to fourteen degrees and a table of recommended angles for different diameter bits.  It is a simple setting.

The only setting which is tricky is the depth of cut screw.  My first sharpened bit is at least respectable, so setting the depth is not really difficult.  it will just take some more experience to become more proficient with setting the depth.

I like the four facet cut.  It should cut down on the bits skating before actually cutting.  As a practical observation, the instructions state the secondary faces are not necessary when reaming (enlarging) a hole.  For those of you who can access the finewoodworking membership site, Ernie Conover has done an excellent you tube on precision drilling of wood with regular bits.  For a precision size hole he suggests using a small pilot hole, then a bit close to final size and then the final size bit.  Not quick, but very accurate.

The instructions do not specifically address the issue, but I cannot see any benefit from using the fine graded stone on the secondary faces.  The cutting is done only by the primary faces.  I can see the possible benefit of regrading the stone with the primary faces.  I would regrade the stone and smooth the primary faces before setting the jig for the secondary faces.  (I would regrade the stone to coarse before grinding the secondary faces.  That would also leave the stone ready to grind the next bit.)

Is the jig worth the money?  I confess I bought mine at a very attractive (possibly mismarked) price compounded by a 20% discount due a tool show.  I was the first customer through the door and immediately bought the DBS-22.  By the way, the "22" is 22 millimeters (7/8"), the maximum bit size the jig will handle.  3mm (1/8") is the minimum.  I think it is worthwhile, but I am a Tormek junky.

I have no experience with any other drill bit jigs except grinding by hand and using a file.  I'm not skilled at either of these.  The Tormek has the advantage of consistency while removing the minimum of metal and not overheating the bits.

I happen to have a black wheel, however, I believe the drill jig should work all right with the standard wheel.

I would welcome comments, especially from those who have used the jig more than I have.  (If you have sharpened three bits or more, that means you.)

Ken
#699
General Tormek Questions / wheel storage
June 17, 2012, 02:29:08 AM
When I get settled into my new workshop, I plan to build a work station for my Tormek.  I have the DVD and measured drawing for Norm Abram's design.  I plan to use that as a starting point.

Norm's design was made before multiple grinding wheels were available.  I have the SB and SJ wheels.  I am wondering how they should be stored in the work station.  Horizontally or vertically?  Should any procedures be followed to allow them to dry after use?

Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

Ken
#700
I just received my replacement Tormek.  As I posted earlier, my T-7 was stolen during a burglary.  The thief stole the Tormek unit itself, but not my diamond truing tool, universal Support Bar, stone grader,water trough or SE-76.  The loss was not covered by insurance (no content coverage on a vacant dwelling during a move).

I asked a knowledgeable person I trust for advice.  He told me to contact Hanns at Advanced Machinery.  (My local dealer was not interested in selling an unadorned T-7.) Hanns treated me right.  My new T-7 arrived earlier this week.  It has the SE-76 and honing compound.  It does not have the universal support bar, diamond tool or stone grader.

The discounted unit included the free RB-180 and free shipping.

I can use the honing compound.  Also, I will experiment with sharpening two chisels at a time. (Actually I can do three, as Ionut helped me procure one of the older model jigs for sharpening mortising chisels.)

Unfortunately, I do not believe my original T-7 will ever be recovered.  On the off chance it is, I will use one unit with my SJ 250 wheel. 

So, thanks, knowledgeable one, and thanks, Hanns, for the fine service.

Ken