Is this saying that one should get better results on rock hard felt?
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Show posts MenuQuote from: cbwx34 on June 08, 2023, 04:21:21 PMQuote from: darita on June 07, 2023, 09:52:09 PMI want to use Vadim's method of using an 8" buffer for paper wheels. Right now I'm using a Delta variable speed grinder that has a lot of runout and I don't know what speed the wheels are turning at. I'm looking for good, reasonably priced, buffer recommendations.
Your Delta should work. Most variable speeds run between 2000-3400 rpm. The actual speed is not that important. Paper wheels are pretty easy to true to a machine. (Depends on how much runout there actually is I suppose.)
I tried paper wheels on a Tormek... works OK I guess, but no advantage I saw over the leather wheel, and doesn't give the same results as running on a faster machine.
Wax has nothing to do with honing... it's only used on the grinding wheel.
Quote from: tgbto on June 08, 2023, 04:28:49 PMWould the MB-100 help in supporting the chisel when using the side of the wheel ?
Quote from: Ken S on June 08, 2023, 04:25:05 AMDarita,
Ascertaining the speed of a variable speed grinder or buffer is easy enough to do. Digital read out tachometers are inexpensive and readily available. I used one when I converted my belt grinders to variable speed. (From practical experience, angle the light slightly. I had problems with straight on reflection.)
An unusual suggestion: Buy a second hand or stripped down T4. (Although there is no official ."T4 Custom", some dealers may sell them that way. Advanced Machinery is one.) The T4 motor spins at 120 RPM, compared with the 100 RPM motor of the T8. Also, for use with a paper or felt wheel, with the water trough removed, the T4 works with a 250mm wheel.
With paper wheels, the need for high speed is to generate enough heat to melt the wax. As I recall, Vadim used no wax.
Ken
Quote from: WimSpi on June 07, 2023, 08:25:44 PMThat is a particularly beautiful result. My compliments.
I myself have been a carpenter for more than 50 years. I am also going to give it a try on my 52 year old 'Nooitgedagt' chisels.
For me, sharp is enough. That's because a wood chisel can quickly become blunt again. Especially when working on construction work. You are then not able to sharpen chisels properly.
For that, you have a whetstone in your toolbox and sharpen "by hand," while working. That's how we were taught in school.
This always results in the end that the cutting edge is no longer 27 degrees*), or a corner is out, or the angle becomes slightly rounded. And with the Tormek, I make the cutting edge exact again, as it should be.
So if you're ever going to sharpen for a carpenter, it's not about "as sharp as possible," it's about "sharp" and the right sharpening angle. And: a straight cutting edge, exactly at 90 degrees.
But your test I do enjoy reading.
*) In Holland we sharpen wood chisels at 27 degrees and not at 25 degrees
Quote from: 3D Anvil on June 06, 2023, 11:43:56 PMNow you could get really fancy and mount it on the honing wheel side. That way all you have to do is flip the USB around.
Quote from: tgbto on May 31, 2023, 11:54:58 AMThe FVB can clearly be used like this, might even be yet another reason to replace or complete the current (seldom used ?) HUSB holes with another set of USB.
I can see why spillage would happen in the vertical/edge trailing setup, though I think the standard practice would be to sharpen with the horizontal USB. Agreed, you would not have the same body/arms position.
Could it also be that the wheel is too deep in the water trough ? The only spillage I could not get rid of is that black gunk that sprouts from the honing wheel when deburring...
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