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Your post is slightly confusing. When you place your 45mm felt wheel on the shaft, are the threads too far away for the nut to screw down or is your shaft too short for your felt wheel?

If the shaft is too long, fender washers with 12 mm bore hole can fill in the space at minimal cost. These often come in three packs.

Ken

Actually just the opposite. Not enough threads are exposed to get a bite because the shaft length is the same length as the wheel is wide.

So I purchased a 45mm wide felt wheel, however it's too long for a 45mm adapter on the leather wheel side of my T8.  Does anyone have a longer adapter or a fix for this?

I remeasured the distance from top of USB to top of stone, even using the rubber band trick and got the same discrepancy between using the AngleMaster vs using Calcapp measurements. Forgive the angle of the picture, as I was trying to show all the settings on the AngleMaster as well as contact to the stone and blade.

The blade is tapered from spine to edge... the AngleMaster doesn't account for that.

Got it.  That makes sense.  From now on, when doing knives, I'll be using CalCapp, since all my knives have some king of primary bevel.  Thanks.

I remeasured the distance from top of USB to top of stone, even using the rubber band trick and got the same discrepancy between using the AngleMaster vs using Calcapp measurements. Forgive the angle of the picture, as I was trying to show all the settings on the AngleMaster as well as contact to the stone and blade.

 

Am I doing something wrong here?  No matter how many times I enter the numbers, there's a marked difference using CalCapp vs using the WM. The WM shows the projection needs to be lengthened.  My wheel diameter is 250mm, Jig Diameter is 12mm, Projection is 139mm and Angle is 15dps.  I got 78.9mm from top of USB to Top of Stone.

I wouldn't imagine that water *inside* the wheel would do any damage, since it's made of aluminum.

I wondered about that, so I put a magnet to the wheel and it stuck.

When I put together my paper wheel setup, I couldn't use the exact distance of USB base to arbor center that is on the T8, because the grinder base was in the way.  Does that preclude my ability to use CalCapp to figure out top of USB to wheel surface calculation?

Thank you. Just what I needed to know. I thought I really blew it.

No... if you measure directly to the wheel to set the USB height, the horizontal (and vertical) distance doesn't factor in.

When I put together my paper wheel setup, I couldn't use the exact distance of USB base to arbor center that is on the T8, because the grinder base was in the way.  Does that preclude my ability to use CalCapp to figure out top of USB to wheel surface calculation?

I've used both diamond wheels and diamond stones and on other systems as well.  There is definitely and brak-in period before they smooth out and give a more even scratch pattern.  Of course, using lite pressure on the last passes help as well.  My understanding is that the diamonds pile up on each other in some places and those must be knocked down.

If that is your concern about it, put your effort into improving your ACC measurement methods rather than trying to remove the plastic cover... My reasoning... not using the correct concentration of ACC may put the working/important part of the diamond wheel at risk which is far more serious than the annoyance of a bit of water draining from the wheel. 

Rick

Thanks for the advice Rick. I'll try that.

I asked the question on FB as well and got a reply from Wolfgang Hess.  He said that the plastic cover is there to help deaden sound.  He also said water that gets into the wheel will drain out and ACC150 leaves a protective coating on the inside that will keep it from rusting.  The translation was a bit off, but that's what I gleaned from the reply.  You can read it for yourself on Tormek Users.
I'm still a bit concerned as I don't have 100% confidence in the ACC150 or maybe it's my rather haphazard measurement of the fluid.  At any rate, I'm very tempted to remove the cover so I can wipe the inner wheel after every use.   

So how do I clear the water out of my DF250? 

Thank you for your replies.  I'll take your advice and leave it as is.  I happen to have an older SG 2000 with a glazed over wheel, so I'll take your advice.  Thanks again.

OK...well I just saw a video ad for Tormek showing different operations and one shot showed the sanding of the rubber drive wheel under the leather strop.  The ad is for Oatwina Shop on FB.  What's that for?

I've had the same issue and I've tried various pressures.  I can get rid of the chatter by increasing pressure, but I find that makes the blade hotter than I'm comfortable with.  I rarely use the paper wheels these days.

I hear you on that.  I'm careful to take one pass at a time and allow a few seconds between for cooling.