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I've used both diamond wheels and diamond stones and on other systems as well.  There is definitely and brak-in period before they smooth out and give a more even scratch pattern.  Of course, using lite pressure on the last passes help as well.  My understanding is that the diamonds pile up on each other in some places and those must be knocked down.

If that is your concern about it, put your effort into improving your ACC measurement methods rather than trying to remove the plastic cover... My reasoning... not using the correct concentration of ACC may put the working/important part of the diamond wheel at risk which is far more serious than the annoyance of a bit of water draining from the wheel. 

Rick

Thanks for the advice Rick. I'll try that.

I asked the question on FB as well and got a reply from Wolfgang Hess.  He said that the plastic cover is there to help deaden sound.  He also said water that gets into the wheel will drain out and ACC150 leaves a protective coating on the inside that will keep it from rusting.  The translation was a bit off, but that's what I gleaned from the reply.  You can read it for yourself on Tormek Users.
I'm still a bit concerned as I don't have 100% confidence in the ACC150 or maybe it's my rather haphazard measurement of the fluid.  At any rate, I'm very tempted to remove the cover so I can wipe the inner wheel after every use.   

So how do I clear the water out of my DF250? 

Thank you for your replies.  I'll take your advice and leave it as is.  I happen to have an older SG 2000 with a glazed over wheel, so I'll take your advice.  Thanks again.

OK...well I just saw a video ad for Tormek showing different operations and one shot showed the sanding of the rubber drive wheel under the leather strop.  The ad is for Oatwina Shop on FB.  What's that for?

I've had the same issue and I've tried various pressures.  I can get rid of the chatter by increasing pressure, but I find that makes the blade hotter than I'm comfortable with.  I rarely use the paper wheels these days.

I hear you on that.  I'm careful to take one pass at a time and allow a few seconds between for cooling.

Yay! Glad that helped Darita.
I suppose that the paper wheels are quite a departure from the slow, even grinding work on the Tormek and it takes a little while to gain confidence, especially as there is an element of jeopardy in the higher speed revolutions.
Personally,I have all but given up on chasing sub 50 Bess scores. Too much time and fiddle faddle involved which can't be justified to most clients. Would only bother with a high end knife and by agreement with a customer.
Let us know how consistent you can get results with the paper wheels. I have had mixed results and don't bother with them much anymore.

I understand your position.  I'm a hobbyist and I have the time and inclination.  That said, consistency is what I'm after, so if paper wheels don't deliver, then I'll move on.  So far, paper wheels have given me quite good results though, so I'll carry on. 

When I started using paper wheels I had the same problem and it was a little worrying. So I think I got quite tentative which only made the problem worse. I contacted Vadim who instructed me to use greater pressure than one would think ( can't give you a quantitative figure for how much pressure).
Anyway, from that point on the process became much smoother with little or no chatter. I think there was a bit of a learning curve and a bit of 'running in' for the wheels themselves.

Well I followed your and Vadim's advice and ignored the chatter, using more pressure.  With that, I was able to get my first sub-50g Bess reading...I got 40g!  My hope is that as the paper wheel gets worn in, the chatter will go away and smooth out and I'll be able to get even sharper.  As it is, that 40g edge is able to split hairs easily, so I'm a happy sharpener.  Thanks again!

When I started using paper wheels I had the same problem and it was a little worrying. So I think I got quite tentative which only made the problem worse. I contacted Vadim who instructed me to use greater pressure than one would think ( can't give you a quantitative figure for how much pressure).
Anyway, from that point on the process became much smoother with little or no chatter. I think there was a bit of a learning curve and a bit of 'running in' for the wheels themselves.

Great advice, both from you and Vadim. I really do miss be able to ask him directly. Thank you for chiming in.

I can't,for the life of me, get rid of the bouncy vibration I feel in my tool when using these slotted paper wheels.  I've adjusted out 90% of the wobble in the wheels.  My 1/2 speed arbor has less than .0001" runout.  I've even tried attaching sandpaper to the back of a TT50 in an attempt to knock down the high spots on the out of round wheels with little success.  Is this normal?  Do all of yours do the same thing?  Or, should I have continuous contact with the wheel surface and have smooth, vibration-free contact.

I'll tell you my answer, (even though I know you won't like it)...

The faster, the smoother. 

...but does this happen for everyone?  I mean the seemingly out of round wheel?

That could be, but at this point, anything could be.  I get two high spots on the wheel on opposite surfaces and two low spots on opposite surfaces.  Is this normal or should it be a continuous contact pattern?

I can't,for the life of me, get rid of the bouncy vibration I feel in my tool when using these slotted paper wheels.  I've adjusted out 90% of the wobble in the wheels.  My 1/2 speed arbor has less than .0001" runout.  I've even tried attaching sandpaper to the back of a TT50 in an attempt to knock down the high spots on the out of round wheels with little success.  Is this normal?  Do all of yours do the same thing?  Or, should I have continuous contact with the wheel surface and have smooth, vibration-free contact.

Well, I was able to get a 52 Bess reading.  After honing with a leather wheel and chromium oxide, I went to a paper wheel with 1u spray and got the 52.  I'm happy with that.  Now I think I have a protocol for chisels.

I sharpened a chisel on the Tormek for the first time and removed the burr with the rockard felt wheel.
Then over a leather wheel, with 0.25 micron diamond polish.

But because this chisel got so short from grinding after 52 years, I had to do the deburring freehand. Grinding just barely went with the guide.
I got to BES 149.

Then I deburred with a Belgian whetstone and came up to 82 and 107.

I am not dissatisfied. But I will not reach the BESS 52 with this chisel.

I'm usually happy with anything at 100 or less.

Am I seeing that not only can you run slotted paper wheels on the Tormek, but that they produce a better edge than 1/2 speed grinder/polisher?