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Messages - darita

#31
Is this saying that one should get better results on rock hard felt?
#32
Quote from: cbwx34 on June 08, 2023, 04:21:21 PM
Quote from: darita on June 07, 2023, 09:52:09 PMI want to use Vadim's method of using an 8" buffer for paper wheels.  Right now I'm using a Delta variable speed grinder that has a lot of runout and I don't know what speed the wheels are turning at.  I'm looking for good, reasonably priced, buffer recommendations.

Your Delta should work.  Most variable speeds run between 2000-3400 rpm.  The actual speed is not that important.  Paper wheels are pretty easy to true to a machine.  (Depends on how much runout there actually is I suppose.) 

I tried paper wheels on a Tormek... works OK I guess, but no advantage I saw over the leather wheel, and doesn't give the same results as running on a faster machine.

Wax has nothing to do with honing... it's only used on the grinding wheel.



Believe me, I tried to get those wheels to run true, but no matter what I did, they chisels were bouncing like crazy.  That grinder just doesn't cut it.
#33
Quote from: tgbto on June 08, 2023, 04:28:49 PMWould the MB-100 help in supporting the chisel when using the side of the wheel ?

Only if you can align the support bar to be inline with the wheel side, then you could use it as a fulcrum to gently lay your chisel back down on the wheel.  It's a good idea.
#34
I've been working on chisels lately and found that I can use the side of my diamond/CBN wheels for flattening, however I have to pay a lot attention when I do so.  Much care must be taken while laying the chisel down so as not to allow the chisel back to rock either side-to-side or heel to tip.  What makes it difficult is that there is a constant pull on the chisel from the rotation of the wheel.  All that said, using the wheel side removes material much faster than doing it all by hand, on stones.  Once I'm sure the chisel is flat, I finish by hand on stones.  I recommend practicing on a junk chisel first.   Hope this helps.
#35
Quote from: Ken S on June 08, 2023, 04:25:05 AMDarita,

Ascertaining the speed of a variable speed grinder or buffer is easy enough to do. Digital read out tachometers are inexpensive and readily available. I used one when I converted my belt grinders to variable speed. (From practical experience, angle the light slightly. I had problems with straight on reflection.)

An unusual suggestion: Buy a second hand or stripped down T4. (Although there is no official ."T4 Custom", some dealers may sell them that way. Advanced Machinery is one.) The T4 motor spins at 120 RPM, compared with the 100 RPM motor of the T8. Also, for use with a paper or felt wheel, with the water trough removed, the T4 works with a 250mm wheel.

With paper wheels, the need for high speed is to generate enough heat to melt the wax. As I recall, Vadim used no wax.

Ken

That's interesting, as I have a SuperGrind that is doing nothing right now.  Question is, what effect would the slower speed have on the process?  I would think Vadim could have used his paper wheels on a T8, however he chose to use slow speed polishers instead.  Any idea why?
#36
Quote from: WimSpi on June 07, 2023, 08:25:44 PMThat is a particularly beautiful result. My compliments.

I myself have been a carpenter for more than 50 years. I am also going to give it a try on my 52 year old 'Nooitgedagt' chisels.

For me, sharp is enough. That's because a wood chisel can quickly become blunt again. Especially when working on construction work. You are then not able to sharpen chisels properly.
For that, you have a whetstone in your toolbox and sharpen "by hand," while working. That's how we were taught in school.

This always results in the end that the cutting edge is no longer 27 degrees*), or a corner is out, or the angle becomes slightly rounded. And with the Tormek, I make the cutting edge exact again, as it should be.

So if you're ever going to sharpen for a carpenter, it's not about "as sharp as possible," it's about "sharp" and the right sharpening angle. And: a straight cutting edge, exactly at 90 degrees.

But your test I do enjoy reading.

*) In Holland we sharpen wood chisels at 27 degrees and not at 25 degrees


I take your point respectfully, as you are a carpenter, where I am just a hobby woodworker.  I have the luxury of time. 
#37
I want to use Vadim's method of using an 8" buffer for paper wheels.  Right now I'm using a Delta variable speed grinder that has a lot of runout and I don't know what speed the wheels are turning at.  I'm looking for good, reasonably priced, buffer recommendations.
#38
Quote from: 3D Anvil on June 06, 2023, 11:43:56 PMNow you could get really fancy and mount it on the honing wheel side.  That way all you have to do is flip the USB around.

Thing is, I'm not sure it will be that simple.  It may cause me to have to remove the chisel from the jig and flip it around, which is what I've been trying to avoid.  That said, I'll have to give it a try.
#39
Well, I was able to get a 52 Bess reading.  After honing with a leather wheel and chromium oxide, I went to a paper wheel with 1u spray and got the 52.  I'm happy with that.  Now I think I have a protocol for chisels.

#40
Wow!  Just got the SchleifJunkies 250mm leather wheels and it works great!  I do edge trailing sharpening cuz I find I get much less edge chipping that way.  Going from CBN wheels to this leather wheel is just a matter of changing the wheel.  No other adjustments needed for guided honing.  Although this is the smooth wheel, I got the rough one as well and will decide which I like best.  This has simplified things a great deal for me.

#41
Just to update, since switching to edge trailing sharpening, I've been able to get BESS readings at or near 75 consistently, on 25 degree edges.  Under the scope, edge leading edges produce a lot more chipping, where edge trailing produces a much smoother edge.  Edge trailing also produces a much finer burr at every grit. 
#42
Quote from: tgbto on May 31, 2023, 11:54:58 AMThe FVB can clearly be used like this, might even be yet another reason to replace or complete the current (seldom used ?) HUSB holes with another set of USB.

I can see why spillage would happen in the vertical/edge trailing setup, though I think the standard practice would be to sharpen with the horizontal USB. Agreed, you would not have the same body/arms position.

Could it also be that the wheel is too deep in the water trough ? The only spillage I could not get rid of is that black gunk that sprouts from the honing wheel when deburring...

Well, it turns out you're right!  I was going a bit too deep in the trough, which put a little too much water on the wheel, which resulted in the spillage.  When I just touch the water with the wheel surface, I got much less spillage if any.  User error lesson learned.  Thanks for the help.
#43
Every time I see this ridge on the drive wheel, it bugs me.  Will it hurt or help anything If I do trim it?

#44
Thanks!  Just what I was looking for.
#45
Just wondering why there are no CBN wheels finer than 1200 grit? Is there another alternative that doesn't need truing and won't change diameter?