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Messages - Ken S

#7711
Elroy,

Back to your original post: I wouldn't let the issue with the honing wheel keep you from enjoying your new Tormek.  In my opinion, the honing wheel is an added bonus.  The main function of the Tormek is sharpening.  It does this very well with no danger of overheating the steel.  The last bit of polishing, whether on the leather honing wheel, a leather strop or a fine stone, is the easy part of the work.  The manual labor part of sharpening is where the Tormek excels. 

By all means, get sharpening. 

Ken
#7712
Elroy,

Welcome to the Forum.  I would suggest you write a diplomatic letter of complaint to Tormek in Sweden.  The handbook may cover how to correct the situation, and, in fact, it is a probably a minor issue.  However, you did not purchase a Tormek "kit" to be finished by the customer or a discounted refurbished unit.  I am certainly a fan of Tormek quality and design.  However, I don't think your unit should have left the factory with a bump on the honing wheel.  It should be an easy thing for a factory quality inspector to identify and correct.  If the remedy is printed in the handbook it is too common a problem. The factory could have remedied the situation as easily as they expect you to do. You paid full price; you should get a first class unit.

If you do write them, please post the results on the forum.  I hope they rise to the occasion.

Good luck.

Ken
#7713
Why wouldn't the Tormek jigs work with the multi tool?

A support bar would have to be placed where the jigs could be used with the belt direction moving away from the tool being ground to prevent ruining the belt. 

If the multi tool was mounted horizontally, the support bar would have to be in the equivalent of the vertical position.  Some shimming might be necessary to get the bar to a workable height.

All this would require some thought.  However, it shouldn't be all that difficult, expensive or time consuming. 

I have an old (ancient?) Dayton belt grinder revived from a neighbor's garage sale for twenty five dollars.  it is missing the disk sander parts and needed new pulleys, belt and wiring.  I put another thirty dollars in pulleys and belt.  I had a usable cord on hand.  It is a usable and useful tool now.  It is nowhere near being in the same league as the multi tool, however, it does the job for me.  If I did not have this, I would look very seriously at a multi tool.  It seems a fine adjunct to the Tormek.  With the variety of belt grits available, the tool is quite versatile.

Ken
#7714
We will have to refer this to our Rob, our Resident Detective Chief Inspector  of the Yorkshire Vocabulary Constabulary......... :)

Ken
#7715
General Tormek Questions / Re: Newbie here....
September 20, 2013, 10:23:48 PM
Albion, welcome.

I believe the best way to honor our elders and their tools is to keep them razor sharp and make our hands skilled.  The Tormek and practice make a good combination.

Ken
#7716
I recently read about a new design dry grinder from a Canadian company.  (sorry, I don't remember the name)  It has a variable speed DC motor with speeds from 400 to 4000 rpm.  It apparently runs quite smoothly.  It has steel wheels with some kind of boron compound inset.  It's almost as hard as diamond, but the binder is not effected by heat.  And, it is compatible with the Tormek jigs.  The one downside is cost, around twelve hundred dollars.

However, combining a Tormek wet grinder with one of these would be an ideal set up.  Superb tools, each doing its preferred function.

Ken
#7717
Thanks, Scott, for the kind comment.

As I understand it, the purpose of the oil is to let the leather something cheaper than the honing compound. I don't know how much of an exact science this is.  I started with considerably less mineral oil with my second Tormek than I used with my first.  I add compound as it seems necessary.  You will soon develop a feel for it.

Good luck, and keep us posted.

Ken
#7718
General Tormek Questions / Re: Bench Height
September 20, 2013, 01:13:53 AM
Welcome to the forum. The shop drawing for Norm Abram's New Yankee sharpening station (the one he built during the episode which featured Jeff Farris) shows a height of 34 inches.  He also has a slide out foot stool for work requiring a higher position.  I would consider this a good starting point.

For many years I tray developed large sheet film in my photographic darkroom.  Height was critical.  If the trays were too low, I quickly experience back pain.  With that in mind, I would design the stand so that the height could easily be changed.

Let us know what you decide and how it works.

Ken
#7719
I have an old Flint "sandwich knife".  It belonged to my father, and probably dates to around 1950.  I keep it in a slot with the other knives for sentimental reasons and to open letters.  It was dull enough so that the "sharp" edge could almost be measured with a radius gage.

Recently I ran it through the Tormek.  It now does amazing things with letters and opening cereal boxes.  I had no idea the old knife was capable of such things!

Ken
#7720
Most of my knives have bolsters.  I'm a reader, and read that the bolster was a sign of a well made knife.  I still believe that, however, I have come to the conclusion that the guys who like the bolsters are those who use the knives, rather than sharpen them.  If I were buying a knife today, I would be very tempted to buy one without the bolster.

Stig is right on about the importance of a knife bevel looking right.  Jeff is correct in lifting the knife to keep the bevel consistent. Jeff's videos are an excellent training aid.  I wish you would continue making them, Jeff.  As much as I enjoy books, the videos are very effective learning tools.

Ken
#7721
General Tormek Questions / Re: How did I do?
September 04, 2013, 04:12:18 AM
Good post, John.  Welcome to the forum.

From the bits and pieces I've heard about Geoff Brown, he seems like a Tormek legend.  I happened to replace my original water trough with the larger newer model.  It works well, but so did the older model.  It's amazing how much steel the magnet draws.  Electrical tape works fine.

My first Tormek was stolen.  When I replaced it, the new one came with the new turntable.  I like it.  However, the slickest idea I have read is to use an old cafeteria tray. It's easy to turn around, and it catches any water.

My original Tormek had the regular shaft, but in stainless steel.  You are absolutely right about the lithium grease.  Combined with dumping the water tray after use, rust shouldn't be a problem.  I confess the new EZYlock shaft is a spoiler.

I hope you will continue posting.

Ken
#7722
General Tormek Questions / Re: How did I do?
September 03, 2013, 07:35:16 PM
The reason I chose to order the second nut form sharptoolsusa is that the thread on the universal support bar is not a standard thread.  It is something like an Acme thread, with a flat surface for the holding knob.  I don't know if a standard nut would work or not.  I do know that the Tormek micro adjust nut works well.  The second micro adjust feature is not needed, but does no harm.

Ken
#7723
General Tormek Questions / Re: How did I do?
August 31, 2013, 03:16:02 AM
Don't worry, Herman.  Your secret is safe with me.  By the way, I'm not a real midwesterner, either.  Born and raised in New Jersey.  We were neighbors, sort of.

Ken
#7724
Make sure you use the fine side of the stone grader thoroughly before you begin.  Then go lightly.  Spend more time where you need to grind more.

Stig had a good post recently; you  might want to find it.

Ken
#7725
Wood Turning / Re: Alan Lacer skew
August 28, 2013, 01:32:58 AM
I think this link will get you to the correct page for parts (with diagram) at sharptoolsusa.com.

http://www.sharptoolsusa.com/index.php?target=part&partsProdID=31&catID=6

Ken