New member-lot of questions

[DRQ96]

Hi

Completely new member to the forum. As a guy both very interested in cooking as well as being a hunter I have lots of knives (too many? according to my lovely wife).

I have been sharpening my expensive knives on japanese whetstones for many years which might be ok but is very time consuming. As a family man, I dont have that time. And since I have moved out from the big city, it is a two hour drive (one way) to the closest sharpening shop where I usually get hunting knives and scissors sharpened.

I decided to do some research and landed on a T-8 with a jig-kit (GTK706).

Now, down to all newbie questions:

1. Will it be ok to finish with the paste or should I finish with my 8000 grit stones? Will the edge last longer with a more polished surface (so I learned as a kid many years ago living in lapland Sweden).

2. Do you use 20 deg for all butcher knives? We shot 6 wild boar and some red deer this weekend, I really need to sharpen my butcher knives before taking care of all the meat. They are really dull after 25+ animals this fall. What about hunting knives like Falllniven and Eka Swingblade? (have about 6-7 of those as well)

3. Some, or at least one, of my japanese knives have extremely low angle (sub 10 per side), are they even possible to grind on the T-8? I have nerver sharpened it myself, have given it to a japanese master sharpener the few times it has been sharpened.

4. Is it possible to sharpen straight razors on the T-8? The blade shape is extremely convex.

5 and last question, do you always go for maximum sharpness, even on hunting knives? I always learnt that a too sharp knife will dull faster than a 95% sharp knife

Sorry for all questions but I am brand new to the Tormek world, have had the T8 for approximately 18 minutes:)

Tine to bring out some cheap knives from the garage and start testing!

[cbwx34]

I'll take a crack at a 'em...

Hi

Completely new member to the forum. As a guy both very interested in cooking as well as being a hunter I have lots of knives (too many? according to my lovely wife).

I have been sharpening my expensive knives on japanese whetstones for many years which might be ok but is very time consuming. As a family man, I dont have that time. And since I have moved out from the big city, it is a two hour drive (one way) to the closest sharpening shop where I usually get hunting knives and scissors sharpened.

I decided to do some research and landed on a T-8 with a jig-kit (GTK706).

Now, down to all newbie questions:

1. Will it be ok to finish with the paste or should I finish with my 8000 grit stones? Will the edge last longer with a more polished surface (so I learned as a kid many years ago living in lapland Sweden).

I don't think there's a right answer to this.  The edge off the leather with compound is pretty polished... and it may be more of whether or not you can tell a difference.  One advantage to switching to a flat stone after the wheel is you're only contacting the "edge of the edge" and shoulder of the edge (since it has a slight hollow), so it can be easier to maintain the edge for a while.

2. Do you use 20 deg for all butcher knives? We shot 6 wild boar and some red deer this weekend, I really need to sharpen my butcher knives before taking care of all the meat. They are really dull after 25+ animals this fall. What about hunting knives like Falllniven and Eka Swingblade? (have about 6-7 of those as well).

Again, an area where you can experiment and see what works best for you (especially since you have several knives, you can try different angles, finishes, etc. and see what works).  I usually suggest start by matching what angle the knife is currently at, then adjust from there.

3. Some, or at least one, of my japanese knives have extremely low angle (sub 10 per side), are they even possible to grind on the T-8? I have nerver sharpened it myself, have given it to a japanese master sharpener the few times it has been sharpened.

Probably not that low.  A lot depends on the knife and how it is actually sharpened... there are a few of variables to this one... maybe be more specific on the make/style of knife?

4. Is it possible to sharpen straight razors on the T-8? The blade shape is extremely convex.

I don't really know... anything is "possible", but you might ruin a razor figuring it out.  I don't think I could... but I don't have a lot of experience with them.  A lot depends on skill level... take a look at this thread, as well as the links that are in it.

5 and last question, do you always go for maximum sharpness, even on hunting knives? I always learnt that a too sharp knife will dull faster than a 95% sharp knife

Not really true IMO... I think some feel that way because you notice the initial loss of sharpness sooner on a blade that is "more sharp"... if that makes any sense at all... 

Sorry for all questions but I am brand new to the Tormek world, have had the T8 for approximately 18 minutes:)

Tine to bring out some cheap knives from the garage and start testing!

Yup... sharpen a few knives and I think you'll answer most of your own questions.

[DRQ96]

Thanks a lot!

I assembled the T-8, trued the stone that was ever so slightly off. I have now sharpened 8 knives!!

First went really bad. Did some mistakes. Managed to sharpen the knife jig a little *haha*

2-8 went ok. Did #1 again, this time ok.  They are not supermegasharp but very much sharper than before.

Managed to cut myself..

I dont have the skill set to attack my most expensive knives just yet..and definitely not my razor...

The japanese knives are a couple Shun and two really expensive ones from master Yoshikazu-Ikeda

They look a little like these other knives by him (I have a very similar long 280 mm and also a shorter and very delicate 200 mm)

Link:

https://www.yanagiknife.com/akazawa-hokoshin-yoshikazu-ikeda-3-sides-mirror-shiro-ichi-ko-mizu-honyaki-sakimaru-300mm

I also have some cleaver style knife that I bought when traveling in Asia. Very thick blade, will be difficult to fit in any jig..

[cbwx34]

Thanks a lot!

I assembled the T-8, trued the stone that was ever so slightly off. I have now sharpened 8 knives!!

First went really bad. Did some mistakes. Managed to sharpen the knife jig a little *haha*

2-8 went ok. Did #1 again, this time ok.  They are not supermegasharp but very much sharper than before.

Managed to cut myself..

I dont have the skill set to attack my most expensive knives just yet..and definitely not my razor...

The japanese knives are a couple Shun and two really expensive ones from master Yoshikazu-Ikeda

They look a little like these other knives by him (I have a very similar long 280 mm and also a shorter and very delicate 200 mm)

Link:

https://www.yanagiknife.com/akazawa-hokoshin-yoshikazu-ikeda-3-sides-mirror-shiro-ichi-ko-mizu-honyaki-sakimaru-300mm

I also have some cleaver style knife that I bought when traveling in Asia. Very thick blade, will be difficult to fit in any jig..

Sharpening the jig is a "right of passage".   

The Shun's you could probably do... the one you linked to... not so sure... (my way of saying probably not). 

The cleaver... take a look at Herman's Homemade Knife Rest thread... basically a platform that can be made that should work for the cleaver.  (Or watch the video).

[RichColvin]

Alexander,

A lot of your questions are answered in the online Sharpening Handbook (http://sharpeninghandbook.info/) I've compiled (free to use).

Some information on edge retention has been compiled by Vadim Kraichuk at KnifeGrinders.  He has one on edge retention that may really be interesting to you.  I've linked to a number of them on the knife research page at this site (look under the "Miscellany" section on the lower part of the front page).

Specifically, on your questions :

1. I'd recommend using only the honing wheel.  The (high grit) Japanese stones are useful for edges needing very fine edges (e.g., woodworking planes), but probably not needed for knives you use.  (That's my opinion.)

2. (see kitchen knives in Sharpening Handbook)

3. Japanese knives can be sharpened on the Tormek.  I sharpen my Japanese marking knife on it.  Note, I do use the SJ-250 stone (4000 grit).

4. I think it is possible, but I'd probably use the SJ-250 stone (4000 grit).  Alternatively, consider paper honing wheels (again, details are in Sharpening Handbook).

5. I will defer to Vadim Kraichuk at KnifeGrinders again.  He has done a study with the butchers he supports and has published a Proprietary 7-Carcasses Edge document (links to this are in Sharpening Handbook).

Hope that helps.

Kind regards,
Rich

[DRQ96]

Thanks a lot, tons of info there!

[timpaulgeorge]

Great posts guys, I'm also looking to sharpen a straight edge in the future! Let me know if you ever get around to it on this unit with the SG stone, DRQ96.

[timpaulgeorge]

I'll take a crack at a 'em...

4. Is it possible to sharpen straight razors on the T-8? The blade shape is extremely convex.

I don't really know... anything is "possible", but you might ruin a razor figuring it out.  I don't think I could... but I don't have a lot of experience with them.  A lot depends on skill level... take a look at this thread, as well as the links that are in it.

Those threads are ancient! And the postees haven't been active for quite a while. i wonder if anybody else has succesfully sharpened their straight edge on Tormek?

[cbwx34]

Those threads are ancient! And the postees haven't been active for quite a while. i wonder if anybody else has succesfully sharpened their straight edge on Tormek?

Well, in a way, so is the Tormek. 

But that's all I ran across, (which in itself, might be a clue)... 

[Sigs]

So appreciate all the info you experts share. I'm a new member as well and have been using my T8 for about a month. It's replacing both waterstones and an very well used edge pro setup. The T8 is wonderful, and I am getting great results as I gain the touch for using the various jigs. Also a shout-out to Vadim for his help and advice and some very innovative products (I think I helped him with a car payment this month). I am getting ready to launch a business and will be spending many nights reviewing the thousands of posts available here.
Can anyone suggest a forum for the business side of sharpening? Groups that would be important to join? Any suggestions are very appreciated.

[bisonbladesharpening]

Steve Botorff's Sharpening School in a Box is a very worthwhile investment.
Includes both sharpening info and much useful business Info.
Best Wishes
Tim

[RichColvin]

So appreciate all the info you experts share. I'm a new member as well and have been using my T8 for about a month. It's replacing both waterstones and an very well used edge pro setup. The T8 is wonderful, and I am getting great results as I gain the touch for using the various jigs. Also a shout-out to Vadim for his help and advice and some very innovative products (I think I helped him with a car payment this month). I am getting ready to launch a business and will be spending many nights reviewing the thousands of posts available here.
Can anyone suggest a forum for the business side of sharpening? Groups that would be important to join? Any suggestions are very appreciated.

John,

I've noted a number of these on http://www.sharpeninghandbook.info/

You'll see a link to these from the Knife sections, or on the bottom left from the main page.  It is shown on the main page as :

• Knife Sharpening - research articles, other information, and some final thoughts

There is other information that I've cataloged on that site, including some user-made jigs that may be of use to you.

Kind regards,
Rich

[B Sharp]

I would not do a straight razor on a Tormek. The Japanese stones work real good for that.  Lay the razor flat on the stone, there is a reason the spine is that wide.