Oh Dear!

[Rob]

I noticed 2 things:

The grinding wheel was starting to slip when under pressure and shortly after a bumping sound as the drive wheel went out of true.  Ouch. never seen this fault before.

[Jan]

Ouch! Rob, I am wondering why the parts of the drive wheel are so far apart when the drive wheel is belted by massive rubber friction ring. Even more the drive wheel is kept together by three pins of the honing wheel. 

Was not the M12 nut tighten with an extreme torque?

Jan

[Ken S]

Rob,

Ouch!    Fortunately the drive wheel has been redesigned for the T8. Better still, the new zinc drive wheel will fit your Tormek. When you order the new part, make sure you will be receiving the new model. I would email support@tormek.se to verify the new part's number.

Ken

[Rob]

That's interesting Ken.  I dug out the receipt today and by a lucky chance it' still in warranty until this coming August when the 7 years is up :-)

Do you think the dealer will automatically ship the zinc part?

[Rob]

Ouch! Rob, I am wondering why the parts of the drive wheel are so far apart when the drive wheel is belted by massive rubber friction ring. Even more the drive wheel is kept together by three pins of the honing wheel. 

Was not the M12 nut tighten with an extreme torque?

Jan

The M12 nut hasn't been removed since the machine was new Jan so I'm unsure if it was over tightened but I doubt it because that's a procedure I imagine the factory uses a torque wrench to do on assembly.

[WolfY]

Ouch! Rob, I am wondering why the parts of the drive wheel are so far apart when the drive wheel is belted by massive rubber friction ring. Even more the drive wheel is kept together by three pins of the honing wheel. 

Was not the M12 nut tighten with an extreme torque?

Jan

The M12 nut hasn't been removed since the machine was new Jan so I'm unsure if it was over tightened but I doubt it because that's a procedure I imagine the factory uses a torque wrench to do on assembly.

That was an unpleasant surprize. Lucky you are under the warranty.
To me it looks like the outer screw that holds the leather honing wheel in place was to tight tightened. There is no reason to do so cuz there are 3 pines inside holding it from sliding. Probably after long time the plastic got tiered and broke. That's my opinion. Still you are under warranty.

[Ken S]

If the torque of the nut is really an issue, it should have been noted as a caution in the handbook.

Considering the number of much older Tormeks still in regular use with the original plastic drive wheels, I do not consider the design to be defective. That stated, I believe the design team at Tormek must have realized that the benefits of redesigning the drive wheel in zinc outweighed the costs involved.

While I consider the older plastic Tormek drive wheel to be a good product, I consider the new zinc model to be superior. The regular stainless steel shaft was an improvement over the regular steel shaft. With the advent of the EZYlock shaft, the regular stainless shafts were discontinued, and only the EZYlock is available as a spare part. I applaud this decision. I believe the zinc drive wheel will or probably has replaced the plastic model as a spare part.

I hope Tormek will replace your broken drive wheel with the new zinc model. I can understand a temporary shortage, leading to temporarily sending you a plastic one from current stock, however, I believe the permanent replacement should be the current zinc model.

Ken

[Rob]

That would suit me fine Ken :-)

Having dismantled the honing side of the machine I had a good look at the shaft which is still the original steel one and it's completely free of any sign of corrosion??  Whether that was luck or due to me always taking the trough off after use so the wheel doesn't wick up and drip I don't know. 

One trouble is that there is a little cylindrical "cotter pin" for want of a better word.  Not sure what it's called in engineering terms but its about 3mm in diameter with a slot running its length.  It fits inside the central locking moulding and slots through the shaft....well it did.....its now somewhere in the shavings under my lathe!!

I've looked for over an hour.  Can I find it?  Er....no.  Does warranty cover user stupidity???

[Ken S]

Rob,

Divide and conquer. I would take a handful or two of turning chips and run a magnet through them. If not, Tormek might be big hearted and spring for a new cotter pin.

Your T7 is the same vintage as my first one. Mine came with a stainless steel shaft, non EZYlock. Speaking of EZYlock, this would be a very opportune time to convert to EZYlock. You have to go through the conversion procedure regardless of which shaft you use. The kit comes with a new set of bushings. Check with support about the cotter pin; I don't remember if you need it or not. EZYlock is one of those "Bob's your uncle" accessories.

Add a turkey baster and you will really be cooking with gas!

Ken

[Rob]

I don't "need" to convert to Ezylock just to replace the drive wheel do I?

[Jan]

One trouble is that there is a little cylindrical "cotter pin" for want of a better word.  Not sure what it's called in engineering terms but its about 3mm in diameter with a slot running its length.  It fits inside the central locking moulding and slots through the shaft....well it did.....its now somewhere in the shavings under my lathe!!

I've looked for over an hour.  Can I find it?  Er....no.  Does warranty cover user stupidity???

Rob, the correct term is "locking pin". Do not worry, it is a standard spare part No.39. 

Jan

P.S.: May be I have an explanation for this fault. The drive wheel was unsatisfied with its uncertain future after the Brexit vote. 

[Ken S]

I don't "need" to convert to Ezylock just to replace the drive wheel do I?

Rob, absolutely no need to convert to EZYlock. My only thought was that you will have your Tormek somewhat taken apart anyway. This seems a logical time to clean and regrease the bushings. Your present shaft, as always, will work fine. I just find the EZYlock very convenient.

Ken

ps to Jan: funny comment! 

[Herman Trivilino]

I don't "need" to convert to Ezylock just to replace the drive wheel do I?

No. The main shaft you have has lasted so long precisely because you've taken such good care of it. It should continue to work fine provided it's not bent. Go to the sharptoolsusa web site and find the part you've lost. Might as well order new nylon bearings while you're at it. They are inexpensive. But if you do buy a new main shaft keep in mind that new bearings do come with it.

[Ken S]

Here is the link for the locking pin on advmachinery.com (Advanced Machinery, owner of Sharptoolsusa and Tormek parts source in the US.)

https://advanced-machinery.myshopify.com/products/39-locking-pin

Rob, surely either your dealer or Brimarc would be a better place for you to start.

Going by memory, I recall Jeff mentioning in his blog that Tormek switched to stainless steel shafts in 2006, although the EZYlock version did not begin until 2010. Please note that I revised this sentence to include 2006.

Ken

[SharpenADullWitt]

The T-7 era was a paint color change.  In late 2006, they started making the shaft stainless steel.  For as easy as it is to use a wrench/spanner (for Rob), I see no benefit to change it.  Those of use who had the non stainless shaft, or someone who regularly changes stones, might find one useful.
Not the first splitting drive wheel thread, and while I found several of those, I thought I remembered several cracking wheel threads, that might have been the drive wheel, OR the honing wheel.
http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=1072.0
http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=1216.0
http://forum.tormek.com/index.php?topic=1650.0

Off topic
If Jeff Farris were still around, I have read his old posts, but never found one where he mentioned the smaller size stones he used for cleavers.  (he freehanded them)  Rob, you built a larger support bar, but do you also use a smaller stone?