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#31
Knife Sharpening / Re: "Blank" Honing Wheel
Last post by AusSn - November 13, 2024, 03:39:18 PMThanks so much! I could not help but notice that Sweden is very short on large footed marsupials so I am forced to make my own. While perhaps misguided and unnecessary, I just want to see what all the kangaroo tail hype is about.
Tormek does not sell a blank LA-220. They were kind enough to reply to my request.
That 3D printing file is a great start. Thanks for the link. I have someone that thinks they can tweak that design for stronger pins. It will take some time to get this all set up but I will report back.
Tormek does not sell a blank LA-220. They were kind enough to reply to my request.
That 3D printing file is a great start. Thanks for the link. I have someone that thinks they can tweak that design for stronger pins. It will take some time to get this all set up but I will report back.
#32
Knife Sharpening / Re: "Blank" Honing Wheel
Last post by Ken S - November 13, 2024, 02:27:10 AMAus Sn,
From the Tormek website: "cowhide from Tärnsjö Garveri tannery". One of the exhibits in the Tormek Museum describes this impressive leather. I can not imagine better quality than the leather Tormek uses.
However, I realize that some of our members have aspirations which go beyond the standard equipment. Therefore, with a little imagination, MDF can be made into very usable leather honing wheels.
https://youtu.be/BAhgVmQoeiA?si=Qxxi4fslkde80rbC
This link shows a second grinding wheel being mounted on the "dry side" of the Tormek. The shaft from the optional shaped leather wheels is shown, although extension shafts of different lengths are available from third party suppliers.
The MDF wheel can be easily be removed and replaced. The wheel can also be mounted in place of the grinding wheel. Spacers such as fender washers can be used to fit the EZYlock shaft.
No doubt others will chime in.
Ken
EDIT: Here is a relater link:
https://youtu.be/c6iIC3wBmNY?si=v0Y-FmLw7fozF5xb
From the Tormek website: "cowhide from Tärnsjö Garveri tannery". One of the exhibits in the Tormek Museum describes this impressive leather. I can not imagine better quality than the leather Tormek uses.
However, I realize that some of our members have aspirations which go beyond the standard equipment. Therefore, with a little imagination, MDF can be made into very usable leather honing wheels.
https://youtu.be/BAhgVmQoeiA?si=Qxxi4fslkde80rbC
This link shows a second grinding wheel being mounted on the "dry side" of the Tormek. The shaft from the optional shaped leather wheels is shown, although extension shafts of different lengths are available from third party suppliers.
The MDF wheel can be easily be removed and replaced. The wheel can also be mounted in place of the grinding wheel. Spacers such as fender washers can be used to fit the EZYlock shaft.
No doubt others will chime in.
Ken
EDIT: Here is a relater link:
https://youtu.be/c6iIC3wBmNY?si=v0Y-FmLw7fozF5xb
#33
General Tormek Questions / How to sharpen the tip part of...
Last post by Proluxline - November 13, 2024, 01:43:52 AMHello guys, I am a beginner and have a tornek t-t system. i want to sharpen my shun 10 inch knife but have a problem, when I am holding tightly the holder and it comes to the tip part, even if I bent the knife but keeping the holder to the metal bar it just can't make the right angle and messed up the tip, it's almost flat at the tip part and I need to hold the whole knife in my hand to get the desired angel but then I could not control as it's not touching the metal bar. It's very annoying I checked all the videos from Tormek looks like they are able to keep the holder attached in metal bar and just slightly bent but keeping one side attached to the bar, but I can't if I do the grinding stone takes too much of angel. Please help me to fix this issue.
#34
Knife Sharpening / Re: "Blank" Honing Wheel
Last post by John Hancock Sr - November 12, 2024, 11:09:24 PMI did this and discovered a few things.
There are some 3D models here https://www.printables.com/model/394248-tormek-leather-honing-wheel-la-220-alternative
The pins on the wheel are very weak so maybe use a stronger filament or 100% infill around the pins. Mine broke off so I drilled them out and used short screws which work well.
The maker suggests epoxy or superglue. I would definitely not use superglue. I used contact cement which worked perfectly. He also appeared to use an angled butt joint - again, I would not do that.
I cut the leather slightly wider than the wheel and trimmed it to width after gluing it on using a skiving knife. As for the join I did an angled skive of about 15-20mm and overlapped so that the join faced away from the direction of rotation so that use would not cause it to lift up. The overlap was slightly bumpy so I laid the wheel on its side and used a skiving knife to trim it flat then used a sanding drum on the Dremel to sand it perfectly flat. I finally ran the tips of my fingers over the join to test its flatness.
After deburring on the wheel I actually use a flat hand strop with green compound to refine the edge and this seems to get the best results.
There are some 3D models here https://www.printables.com/model/394248-tormek-leather-honing-wheel-la-220-alternative
The pins on the wheel are very weak so maybe use a stronger filament or 100% infill around the pins. Mine broke off so I drilled them out and used short screws which work well.
The maker suggests epoxy or superglue. I would definitely not use superglue. I used contact cement which worked perfectly. He also appeared to use an angled butt joint - again, I would not do that.
I cut the leather slightly wider than the wheel and trimmed it to width after gluing it on using a skiving knife. As for the join I did an angled skive of about 15-20mm and overlapped so that the join faced away from the direction of rotation so that use would not cause it to lift up. The overlap was slightly bumpy so I laid the wheel on its side and used a skiving knife to trim it flat then used a sanding drum on the Dremel to sand it perfectly flat. I finally ran the tips of my fingers over the join to test its flatness.
After deburring on the wheel I actually use a flat hand strop with green compound to refine the edge and this seems to get the best results.
#35
General Tormek Questions / the Rolls Royce of turkey bast...
Last post by Ken S - November 12, 2024, 05:28:21 PMMany years ago, one of our longtime members posted the suggestion of using a turkey baster to empty the Tormek water troughs. I purchased one at my local grocery store and have happily been using it ever since. Mine is certainly a low cost version. The one in the link strikes me as a good, longterm investment.
https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/kitchen/kitchen-tools/meat-and-poultry/74738-dripless-baster
Ken
https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/kitchen/kitchen-tools/meat-and-poultry/74738-dripless-baster
Ken
#36
Knife Sharpening / "Blank" Honing Wheel
Last post by AusSn - November 12, 2024, 05:21:14 PMI want to put my own piece of leather on a LA-220 honing wheel instead of what comes from the Tormek factory. Seems tedious and wasteful to buy a brand new one and try and remove the leather before adhering a new strip of leather.
Does anyone have any ideas on either 3D printed patterns, Tormek blank wheels, or possible used ones? Wide open on this. I have a CW-220 and want to try out other leathers for final honing.
Thanks in advance.
Does anyone have any ideas on either 3D printed patterns, Tormek blank wheels, or possible used ones? Wide open on this. I have a CW-220 and want to try out other leathers for final honing.
Thanks in advance.
#37
Knife Sharpening / Re: New member w/ new question...
Last post by RickKrung - November 12, 2024, 07:14:07 AMJohn said it well. Your truing tool diamond cutting tip looks just fine. I questioned this a long time ago and got similar feedback.
Take it seriously, to go slow when truing - MUCH slower than you will think it should go. It is extremely tedious, but worth it. Also, do not take too deep of cuts. You mention several characteristics of your stone(s), one being "rounded in the edges". That can be a good thing. Radiused edges can reduce a gouging tendancy if blades are tipped over sharp edges. Many of us purposefully add the radiused corners. The radius also helps reduce the risk of chipping out the corners when truing, particularly if the cutting head enters or exits the corners too quickly and/or deeply.
The jig you have is of the older, non-self-centering type, but it has been in service for a long time with good results. I like them over the new, self-centering design, primarily because the new design eliminated adjustability of the projection (distance from the tool edge to the support bar).
The one new accessory that you may want to get is the new angle setting tool, the KJ-123. It is a vast improvement over the previous angle setting to, AngleMaster, and well worth the modest cost. It will make angle setting for knife grinding and honing much easier and faster.
Take it seriously, to go slow when truing - MUCH slower than you will think it should go. It is extremely tedious, but worth it. Also, do not take too deep of cuts. You mention several characteristics of your stone(s), one being "rounded in the edges". That can be a good thing. Radiused edges can reduce a gouging tendancy if blades are tipped over sharp edges. Many of us purposefully add the radiused corners. The radius also helps reduce the risk of chipping out the corners when truing, particularly if the cutting head enters or exits the corners too quickly and/or deeply.
The jig you have is of the older, non-self-centering type, but it has been in service for a long time with good results. I like them over the new, self-centering design, primarily because the new design eliminated adjustability of the projection (distance from the tool edge to the support bar).
The one new accessory that you may want to get is the new angle setting tool, the KJ-123. It is a vast improvement over the previous angle setting to, AngleMaster, and well worth the modest cost. It will make angle setting for knife grinding and honing much easier and faster.
#38
Knife Sharpening / Re: Re: New member w/ new ques...
Last post by Proluxline - November 11, 2024, 11:45:12 PMThank you so much, I will start my journey from there.
#39
Knife Sharpening / Re: Re: New member w/ new ques...
Last post by John Hancock Sr - November 11, 2024, 11:28:27 PMQuote from: Proluxline on November 11, 2024, 09:54:49 PMSo my question is can I use that as is or I need to make it flat or I need to buy a separate tip? ($63), any tip for this oneThe trueing tool is fine. It can be as rough as you like. It won't matter. Just take your time winding it across the wheel.
Quote from: Proluxline on November 11, 2024, 09:54:49 PMholder jig I have is a pretty short, can I use that one or I need to purchase the large one?No you do not. The short jig is perfectly fine. The long jig is only for long flexible knives that bend too much as you sharpen them. I have sharpened many knives with mine and am yet to need to use the long jig.
I would recommend that you watch the Tomek videos on the Tormek Sharpening Innovation channel on YouTube. Start with the videos on the topics of most interest to you, for instance the one on knife sharpening.
#40
Knife Sharpening / Re: New member w/ new question...
Last post by Proluxline - November 11, 2024, 09:54:49 PMHellow everyone, I am glad I joined to this community as I purchased pre-owned Tormek T-4 with many jigs yesterday, and trying to set it up to sharpen my Shun knives. Before I start I noticed that the grinding stone is not even and rounded in the edges, I tried to use the sp-650 stone but looks like that stone also was curved and worn. So i am trying to use the truning device but the diamond tip is not flat and has some bumbs, So my question is can I use that as is or I need to make it flat or I need to buy a separate tip? ($63), any tip for this one?
Second, I have 10 inch Shun classic knife and the holder jig I have is a pretty short, can I use that one or I need to purchase the large one?
Thank you in advance!
Second, I have 10 inch Shun classic knife and the holder jig I have is a pretty short, can I use that one or I need to purchase the large one?
Thank you in advance!