Recent posts

#31

Hand Tool Woodworking / Re: How to grind a out of squa...

Last post by rolsen - October 22, 2025, 12:13:26 PM

It is ofc nice to have square edge on handplane iron, but actually square enough is enough, because handplanes usually have the lateral adjuster. If they don't have it, then a small plane setting hammer, any hammer actually, does the trick.

#32

Hand Tool Woodworking / Re: How to grind a out of squa...

Last post by John Hancock Sr - October 22, 2025, 02:49:12 AM

The only thing that matters is square across the cutting edge relative to the blade sides.

Absolutely agree!!!!

But, make sure the small square is square.

Again, excellent point! When I built my shed I was surprised as to how much of my metrology was not accurate. Always double and triple check your measuring tools before trusting them.

[square with the sides of the plane blade]

#33

Hand Tool Woodworking / Re: How to grind a out of squa...

Last post by RickKrung - October 21, 2025, 03:40:52 PM

Good day to you too ! And welcome to the forum.

If everything is square and your blades come out out of square, then there might be an issue with your technique. So if you keep on grinding the same way, you will probably keep sharpening out of square.

What I'd do is skew the SE-77 so you grind your plane blade back towards square. It is explained on page 127 of the SE-77 manual

I agree with tgbto and John.

Adjust the it using the skew screws -in very small increments - until you get the front edge of the grind square with the sides of the plane blade.  But it is unclear to me what your reference is here.  I think I'm reading square to the jig and square to the wheel. The only thing that matters is square across the cutting edge relative to the blade sides. 

Also, as tgbto points out, technique has a lot to do with how squareness turns out.  Before the skew adjustable jig came out, one way to affect the grind was to put more pressure on one side of the blade.  Even with the skew screws adjusted, I find I still have to use controlled pressure.

Use the black marker trick to help show where grinding is occurring, as you work your way back to square.  I put black marker on everything, every time I put something to the wheel, knives, scissors, drill bits, plane and chisel blades - even things that aren't cutting tools.

John mentions using a small square, which is exactly right.  But, make sure the small square is square.  I've seen mention and pictures of 3D printed small squares, but I wonder just how square they are.  The best tool to use is something precision, like a Starret 4" adjustable square, or a very small precision machinist's square.  I like the Starrett or Lee Valley Small Double Square, as projection of the scale can be adjusted, based on the projection of the blade from the jig.  Tools like these are not cheap, but I find they are worth it. 

#34

Hand Tool Woodworking / Re: How to grind a out of squa...

Last post by John Hancock Sr - October 21, 2025, 04:29:48 AM

I always double check square with a small square as I start to ensure that the iron is being sharpened square. I never trust the jig to be perfect.

#35

General Tormek Questions / Re: Noob Looking for Recommend...

Last post by John Hancock Sr - October 21, 2025, 04:26:49 AM

As a PS. I sharpen my Swiss army knife freehand on the SG. It is quite soft and I find it easy to sharpen but you may still wish to use the knife jig if you are not confident freehand

#36

General Tormek Questions / The spam issue last weekend

Last post by Ken S - October 20, 2025, 10:25:23 PM

A couple diligent members pointed out to me about the spammer last Sunday. Enough topics were effected that I emailed Tormek IT. As I expected, IT corrected the problem quickly. Over the years, I have come to rely on Tormek IT's rapid excellence. I also rely heavily on Tormek support (support@tormek.se) for technical backup. We are most fortunate to have both groups.

Ken

#37

General Tormek Questions / Re: Adjusting stones

Last post by Ken S - October 20, 2025, 10:17:05 PM

 I agree with Rick. I like the rust erasers.

 Ken

#38

General Tormek Questions / Re: Adjusting stones

Last post by RickKrung - October 20, 2025, 09:56:28 PM

I was quite unclear. Adjusting was the wrong word maybe.

How do you clean your sj stone?

Ah, yes, that is quite a different question. 

I would definitely not use the Tormek grading stone.  Some like the Nagura stones, but I find even them to be too coarse, removing too much SJ wheel material.

Instead, I have been using Sabitoru "rust eraser" pads.  The website linked here shows three grits available, but I've only used two that came in a pack from a different source.  Cleans the surface beautifully, removing nearly all traces of metal and black marker. Images below show before and after cleaning with the Sabitoru pads. 

#39

General Tormek Questions / Re: Adjusting stones

Last post by Marr - October 20, 2025, 06:34:05 PM

I was quite unclear. Adjusting was the wrong word maybe.

How do you clean your sj stone?

#40

General Tormek Questions / Re: Adjusting stones

Last post by RickKrung - October 20, 2025, 05:44:04 PM

The SJ stone is very fine and also quite fragile. I would dare touch it with anything that isn't reasonably parallel to the USB.

Even when recently trued with the TT-50, it remains quite smooth and polishes well. There are precautions to take (such as never exit the stone with the TT, always hit the shoulders moving into the stone. You can find several posts on this topic.

If you want to grade it as fine as you can, I'd suggest a very fine diamond plate held in place with the SE jig, as seen in Wootz's stone grading videos.

Many have found that putting a radius (chamfer) on the corners of the SJ stone helps a lot to prevent chipping of the edges, both in sharpening, but more so for truing.  The grading stone works well for creating the radius.  A fine diamond plate (~1000 grit) is what I use for reconditioning the surface of the SJ but I'm not sure that it is coarse enough to put on enough of a radius. The chamfer shown in the image below is barely adequate. 

I have also found that it is possible to exit the edge/side of the SJ wheel while truing, if two things are done:  1) a healthy radius exists and 2) travel speed of the truing tool is VERY slow.