Messages

Paul,

To satisfy your curiosity, why don't you make up a prototype longer support bar?  One piece of a good hardwood dowel should be all you need.  Building time should be minimal.  You would then be able to decide if the longer length really is a benefit or a constraint.  You might have discovered a better mouse trap.

If you do so, please post your thoughts.

Ken

ps I wish I had been a tormek user when the support bar was first introduced.  With the possible exception of the built in motor, I think it is probably the most notable advance.

Paul,

Oops! My universal support bars are both the latest version, which includes having the end threaded for the outer stop.  If yours is older, like your jig, it may not be threaded to accept the outer stop.  I've never seen one to know.  If your rod is threaded, it's a simple, and inexpensive fix.  If not, you may end up either living with it or purchasing a new universal support bar.  A threaded bar and the outer stop will solve your falling off problem.  The SE-76 is a nice improvement, although you can compensate by carefully checking the blade for square. I would use a small hammer with light taps to adjust the blade position, just like adjusting a plane blade.

Ken

ps If you order an outer stop, I would order a spare micro adjusting nut if your bar uses it.  It makes a very nice, secure locking arrangement.  With the price of shipping, I would try to combine the parts.  Incidentally, I just ordered a second spare micro adjusting nut (for my spare bar) as part of an order for honing compound.

Paul,

The problem of the jig falling off the end was solved when this jig was replaced by the SE-76.  All you need to correct this is a part:  (from the sharptoolsusa website)



Tormek Systems
Accessories, Jigs and Attachments
Upgrades & Replacements
Replacement Parts

Diagram Key   Part   Qty. Req.   Price ea.   Order
3   3120 Bushing - Various Jigs   2   $ 0.90   
4   0500 Spring - Various Jigs   2   $ 0.60   
5   5120 Threaded stud - SVH-320 & SE-76   2   $ 1.30   
6   2320 Clamp - SE-76   1   $ 20.80   
7   7020 Knob nut   2   $ 5.70   
8   1091 Stop Ring   1   $ 6.70   
9   7031 Locking Screw   1   $ 8.00   
10   1185 Outer stop   1   $ 4.10   
Return to the Replacement Parts category.

All you need is part number 10, the outer stop.  (It comes with the SE-76 jig, but will also work with the SVH 60.  It screws in to the end of the universal support bar.  The website has a good diagram, which for some reason would not copy/paste.  Use the jig as you have it photographed in the first photo, about to fall off.  the Outer stop will prevent this.

Keep us posted.

Ken

Richard,

Welcome to the forum.

The rubber feet you describe sound like the two feet designed to tilt the Tormek slightly.  These let most of the water fall away from the unit itself.  They were added with the advanced water trough.  They are placed front and back on the side with the leather honing wheel.

I was reluctant to use them at first.  I like my world to be plumb, square and level.  Once I began using them i found i did not notice the tilt of the Tormek. I think they are a good idea.

Keep us posted.

Ken

The Leica (camera) company had an advertising slogan, "quality is remembered long after price is forgotten".

Ken

Mike,

It sounds like you have not only made a useful plane till, you have mastered the leather honing wheel.  Good job!

My local grocery store sells bamboo skewers.  They are essentially pointed dowels about 1/8" (3 mm) in diameter.  I would think they would not be expensive, even in Norway. 

Each skewer (about forty in a pack) would provide about enough dowel material to peg the joints in your till.  If you cut them just a little short of the hole depth, you could darken them.  When driven level, they would add a decorative staccato effect, as well as adding some (probably unneeded) strength to the joints.

They are useful for many purposes.  My grandson just put together a Lego Mario motorcycle, minus one of the handlebar grips.  With a touch of gaffer tape, a piece of skewer blackened with a sharpie made a tolerable replacement.

Ken

"Man is the only animal with the one true religion, all seven of them"

                      Mark Twain

I also learned that I should not waste others time and efforts asking questions that are covered by the manual (although I will probably do it again anyway)

Mike,

Don't be so hard on yourself......Better to ask and know than not to ask and wonder.

Ken

Rob, I think the issue of rust with internal components (mostly the shaft) was more of an issue before the shafts were made of stainless steel.  (Storing the wheel dry is still a good practice.)

Ken

Very good question, John.  Already well answered.  Welcome to the forum; I trust you will enjoy using your new Tormek.

You seem to come from a water stone background (as many of us here).  Allowing the wheel to absorb water will soon become second nature.  I just keep a plastic juice bottle nearby and add when the water stops flowing over the grindstone.  I keep an old towel or paper towels nearby.  There is often a small amount of slippage; usually very small.

Dakotapix, I suppose you could leave the full tray below the stone.  For longer intervals, I just feel better starting with clean water.  That may be mostly in my head.

John, if you have not already found them, Jeff Farris' demo videos www.sharptoolsusa.com are the best "quickstart guide" I have found.

Do post your questions and thoughts. I have found the search function on this forum frustrating.  It's easier, and usually more productive just to post a question.

Ken

Thanks, Stig.  That's the video I mentioned.  How could I miss it; it was hiding in plain sight!

Almost forty years ago I took a sales class.  One of the most valuable things I learned in it was the idea that good salesmanship means educating the customer as to what the product can do for him.  This video certainly does that in an interesting way. It also adds a more human touch to Tormek Sweden.  The Tormek is not just a machine; it is an evolving product of human innovation and labor.

Ken

Rob, I would go along with Jeff's advice.

Ken

With the original shaft, changing wheels is doable.  If you replace the shaft with the new EZYlock shaft, changing wheels is a snap.  I upgraded to the EZYlock with no regrets.

If you plan to routinely use the two finer Shapton stones, I question the practicality of purchasing the SJ-250.

I happen to have an SJ-250 which I have not yet used.  I purchased it during a very good sale at my local Tormek dealer.  My long term plan is to eventually add a second Tormek unit for the SJ and SB wheels.

With only one Tormek I think you would be just as far ahead to become proficient with the leather honing wheel and go on to the Shapton stones if you wish.

Keep us posted.

Ken

Good thought, Herman.  I had forgotten the cleaning part.

Ken

Interesting video, Paul.  Have you ever used a wooden view camera?  They are quite addictive.

Herman, my Brett guard is the original design which mounts to the saw.  My saw is a 1930s vintage tilting table Delta.  I need to custom mount the guard.  In the meantime, I use the grrippers.

Ken