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Looks good. Will have to dig into it. Painting of the shed ceiling waits for no man!

Saw this James is one of my favourite woodworking educators. Having said that it is a thinly disguised advert for Narex, but he is up front about it, unlike many others! I have a set of those Narex Richters and absolutely love them. The best value for money for the harder steel chisels. The Diamond wheels are invaluable for sharpening them due to the high MOHS hardness.

Great video and well explained.

The screw and nut is the pivot point for the three fingers. All three need to be touching the wheel when the angle is set. I put a few drops of lubricant on the jig to get it to slide smoothly

Many of them were my grandfathers tools.

My brother got the majority of my dad's tools. He did his apprenticeship in the 1910s but I got a few and have accumulates some others in the mean time. I seem to spend most of my time these days setting up my shed rather than doing actual woodwork!

Completely agree Ken. This is my default for most things. However, I do have an over abundance of wood working tools with harder steels which makes the diamond and CBN invaluable

I am considering a DF-200 for the planer blades.
It has been recommended by Tormek in their Video's for the T-8 - 4 years ago, when there were no diamond wheels for the T-4 - but I would like to learn from community members if that would be the right choice.

The DF is a perfect choice for HSS planer blades. If they are badly chipped then it may take some time to sharpen but for a resharpen only the DF is perfect.

I suspect that the tools in the videos are close to sharp already. Also, sometimes we can sharpen way beyond the point of sharp enough. Not an issue just a preference

Tormek recommend the fine side of the grader to dress the SJ wheel.

https://youtu.be/FirTgeSWYcw?si=zAW84HYGsfTeA45k

Saw this on FB. These guys have a 25% closing down sale on and they have a bunch 'o Tormek stuff

https://canadianpreparedness.com/collections/sharpening?fbclid=IwRlRTSANnl7NleHRuA2FlbQIxMQABHugBxRsukMmknH2f8nL0GIm_Flogt5_FaHBTtDl7rXeJekvmA0By-uiIfCV8_aem_AKMEUwIUh3aoYGJFW2IPpw

The SVD-185,186,186R all come with a shaft specifically for rotary cutters, or am I confusing blades and jigs?

Mike

You are correct. Specifically designed for small carbide inserts but may also be used for round blades, depending.

The MSK-250 is stainless steel as well so a highly recommended upgrade. Also get yourself a tub or tube of white lithium grease for the shaft. I also always remove any sharpening wheels between sessions.

The only thing that matters is square across the cutting edge relative to the blade sides.

Absolutely agree!!!!

But, make sure the small square is square.

Again, excellent point! When I built my shed I was surprised as to how much of my metrology was not accurate. Always double and triple check your measuring tools before trusting them.

I always double check square with a small square as I start to ensure that the iron is being sharpened square. I never trust the jig to be perfect.

As a PS. I sharpen my Swiss army knife freehand on the SG. It is quite soft and I find it easy to sharpen but you may still wish to use the knife jig if you are not confident freehand

add the square edge jig if it seems like I need it.

You will need the SE jig for chisels and plane irons.