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So you'd have to measure the protrusion distance ...

Even then it would not be accurate since the jig is specifically designed to use with the knife jigs which center lines are sitting a specific distance above the bar. I have not checked but if the Square Edge jig is a different distance above the bar then the geometry will be out.

I personally find it quite ironic how people can discuss (and argue) about how various types of natural stones need to be used for sharpening a knife

My training was electronics and I have been interested in Hi-Fi all my life. It is the same there but far worse. Some of the claims are interesting to say the least!

I don't have the skiving skills or tools of which you speak but would be interested in learning

Here is a really good demonstration. I have linked to the relevant chapter. She uses a head (curved) knife but I use a straight or right hand angled knife.

In thin instance I skive the upper of one end and the lower of the other end to zero thickness for the distance of the overlap.

https://youtu.be/QPGki0VKJTM?si=rEBQHo8RpjM9mHEY&t=388

I see lots of YouTube users struggling with smooth movement that I was taking for granted so I thought about it and came to the welding conclusion.

Yes, like any skill, it is down to practice. I have spent my life making things so using the Tormek was almost instinctive. I am also an armature musician so I am guessing that that also helps since it trains hand eye coordination. I have friends who never did anything really practical and I could imagine that they would struggle.

Do you print your own wheels?

There are a couple of printers in the family, my son and son-in-law. The first couple the pins broke off since they were fragile. I drilled them out and used short screws in their place. The next time I'll get them to use 100% infill around the pins to see how that goes.

I don't have the skiving skills or tools of which you speak but would be interested in learning or contracting that part out.

A skiving knife from DS Horne is relatively cheap and they are pretty easy to use. The trick is keeping it sharp, but I am guessing that will not be a problem 

If you shop at D.S. Horne I'm guessing you're in Adelaide.

Willunga

You're welcome to drop into the workshop or I could pop in to visit or buy one off you.

Will do when I am  down your way. Not sure when, I don't go that way often.

From a google search "Commercially pure grade 1 titanium has a Rockwell B Hardness of 70 – 74"

Seems like a gimmick to me. I would stick with wood myself. Relatively cheap, anti bacterial, easy to clean and maintain and low impact on knives. Also looks good IMO.

If it is softer than you knife the surface will end up with scratches all over it. If that is the look you are going for ...

but not ideal as the abrasive in the wheel is softer than the carbides in the blades.

Yes. A pretty basic principal in sharpening. Sharpening is in its most basic form scratching to remove material in order to create an edge. The finer the scratches the more refined the edge. De-burring is, again scratching away at the burr to remove it leaving a clean edge. In order to create the scritches you must use a harder material for the abrasive in order to scratch the softer material being sharpened.

In practice I found that I was glazing the SG wheel with harder steels which quickly rendered it ineffective.

I have been surprised with the small number of posts about convexing with the KJ-45

When I sharpened my hatchets and axes by hand I would always convex since it was really easy, not for any other reason. I know professional competitors will hone their axe face to ultimate precision but for me it is pretty much "get it cutting". I got to the point where I could shave with the axe pre Tormek but that took so long. Now I can get the same result in a fraction of the time and am soo looking forward to trying out the new jig.
For me the idea of concave vs convex vs flat is a moot point.

I have long felt that the 220 and 1000 numbers were arbitrary and certainly not "digital" (either/or).

As you are probably aware the grit system is best described as "it depends". What the actual number means depends on which standard you are using and even then it is a range, not a fixed number. Assuming that the maker complies with whatever standard they are using the particle size will be within a specified range.

And to be blunt we are really talking about creating an apex. In the vast majority of applications so long as the apex is clean and consistent the tool will perform more than adequately, even if some scratches have been left behind.

Mine is on order!

As for wrapping kangaroo tails around wheels I made a prototype. I wrapped one around an old CBN wheel that had failed.

I got a couple of 3D printed honing wheels and used veg tanned (from DS Horne) (I keep a coupe of half hides of various thicknesses for leather projects) I think 1.5 - 2 mm, and some contact. I used a quality contact that I used for leatherwork and that works a treat. I skived the ends of the strip with a taper of about 10mm and made sure the overlap was front to back so that it would not tent to lift with the rotation. Any slight hump left I cleaned up; with the skiving knife and a sanding drum on the Dremel.

With the 3D print use 100% infill around the pins otherwise they will break off.

I have been using the first one now for months with no issues and the second is the spare.

Nice to see some familiar names mentioned from the chat.

There is a YouTube channel called Tormek Innovation and they have many useful videos that go through using the Tormek and contain a lot of useful tips.

Is it fine to re-use the distilled water

Yes. However you don't need to use distilled water. Any water is fine. As for reuse - again re-use is perfectly fine. I decant mine into a bottle and I simply wash away the dregs in the bottom after using the magnet and scraper to clear out the shavings.

How do you tip out the water?

There is a knob on the back that you can use to wind the water tray down. When it is fully down you can slide the tray out since it clears the wheel.

The wheel is currently stuck on - I can't undo the thumb screw

Facing the front of the machine grasp the honing wheel with your left and and the grinding wheel with your right push the grinding wheel away from you (it has a left hand thread) at which stage it should come loose.

You should remove the wheel from the machine between use. It can become stuck if left on for too long. Avoid loosening the wheel by rotating the knurled knob.

Is it fine to use this wheel for grinding/shaping rather than only sharpening?

So long as you are not too aggressive. Be very gentle. Softer materials can clog the wheel so be aware of that.

A review from Sharpening Supplies

https://youtu.be/b-q53A8-qBg?si=J-XZAVVJKV5acz2Y

Once again, the Tormek Development Team has cleverly built ...

I agree. Just watching now and this will definitely be added to my jigs. Looks nice.