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Hhere is the video starting at the question

https://www.youtube.com/live/zPfckZXyW6Y?si=JH-VJ7j85GTDkCyi&t=1371

TBH I would still be the one using it

In the absence of a T1, the T2 makes a good stand in

The T1 is pretty much novice proof (reluctant to use teh "i" word). It would be for the wife to use mainly so that she can undestroy the knives she constantly destroy. She out never use a T2.

Also what's all this talk about composite honing wheels?

To add to what Ken said, the composite wheel is in effect rubber embedded with abrasive. It is coarser than your typical leather strop or wheel with honing compound. Probably equivalent to a strop with one of the coarser compounds.

The composite wheel is perfectly fine for removing the burr but will not get you super refined. For that you would probably want to add a leather strop. I know Bazz from Findon Sharpening here in Adelaide takes his knives to a leather strop to get a super refined edge but for most kitchens the composite wheel is perfectly fine to quickly get you back to work with a perfectly useable edge.

John,
Is the T2 available in Australia?
Ken

Yes.

This is still my favorite:  the Tormek T-99

When you see Japanese knife sharpeners on their huge waterstones that does not seem so absurd. Also grandpa's huge sharpening wheel. We actually have one here. I intend to build a new frame for it.

Fortunately I don't have to make that decision since they are not released here in Australia. I dread the time when it is released and I have to make that decision.

So I am going to add a 250mm CBN 80# Grid as soon as possible

Have you decided which one?

1. File off those (pointless?) marks atop the edge of the jig

That mark is for centering a plane blade in order to apply a symetrical curve on the iron.

Ha ha. There had to be at least one

Just because something is "designed to be used for" does not mean "can only be used for". Ask any good engineer or designer. I have spent my life using things outside their intended purpose. Saves time money and a lot of effort.

I suspect that turps (mineral turpentine) would work better for removing that glue. It takes a while to soften the glue but patience should give you a squeaky clean surface.

As for cleaning the wheel IPA or maybe window cleaner would be better. IPA will not leave a residue and neither will damage the surface. You can also use the rubber sand paper cleaning sticks and run it across the surface as the machine is running.

There is one on eBay ATM, located in Florida

https://www.ebay.com/itm/225453580804

In answer to your first question about asking price, rare to see more than a couple of hundred in discount against new. The Tormek is one of those where people know their value and usually don't discount much. Which is why it took me over ten years to find a bargain.

In short yes. However ...

The issues you raise are genuine and all very good. I had the opportunity to purchase a lightly used, almost new Tormek for a heavy discount about 10 years ago but procrastinated too long.

A 2011 T7 came up at an auction last year and we secured it for about $160 when they are about $1,000 plus change new here in Australia. However it had some bad rust to the body, rusted shaft, so bad that the wheel broke trying to remove it, worn SEE-76 square edge jig (worked sort of ok), and no water tray.

I did some sharpening with it as it was and it was OK and could have continued to use it in that condition, but wanted to get it to as close to original as I could.

So, new shaft, new wheel, new water tray, new SE-77, new grading stone, were all ordered. I then cleaned off all of the old rust and cleaned up the paint work. I had a Kill Rust blue which I tested against the original colour in a spray can and this was a very close match so used that to touch up the cleaned up areas. With all of the replacement parts it looked pretty much like new and the overall cost was still about 2/3 new cost which to my mind was coming out way ahead.

Would I do it again - absolutely yes. I ended up with a fully restored machine for well below new price. I had to wait another ten years to get one so there is that.

Second hand Tormeks are very rare in Australia and extremely rare in Adelaide so ten years between drinks is to be expected. Where they are more common they should come up more often and more chance of one for a good price. The question is, are you willing to bide your time whilst waiting and keeping your eye peeled?