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No but I see no reason why not. Definitely wet grind though.

You have to very carefully follow the instructions. Any slight deviation can lead to disaster. It took me a few drills before I was getting perfect results. Use the instructions that came with the guide and follow them very carefully and you should be good.

Also note that if you are taking out bad chipping then you may need to do the primary grind, then reset the drill and re-do the primary grind again since the leading edge may have rotated with respect to the jig if a lot of material is removed.

Stay focused on your technique

Exactly. I wish I had said that. I have spent a life time doing just that. Anything which requires hand eye coordination, and kinfe sharpening is a perfect example, requires hand eye coordination, despite the contraptions that Tormek prove to make it super easy. If you concentrate on your technique (watch the Tormek Innovation knife Sharpening videos) then over time you will find that it becomes instinctive, however, you need to focus on good technique while you are learning.

When researching my introduction to abrasives there were references going back to at least the neolithic. In the late stone age people discovered that if they sharpen their stone tools they became more efficient. I watched a Time Team episode where they compared a flint napped axe with a similar flint axe sharpened and they found the sharpened axe much more efficient.

when the Corning engineer's wife discovered that the glass designed for locomotive headlights also worked well for kitchen ware

The discovery of stainless steel in Sheffield England is also remarkable, the company is still there and locally making knives.

Am I the first one in the history of the world to discover this?

Sorry to burst your bubble but not really. I could not find any reference to deburring knives with ultra sonics so this may be new, but there are people deburring parts post machining using ultrasonics so the technique is not new. From what I can find it is extremely effective and your results are consistent which what I see on machined part deburring.

I remember when I was first taught sharpening in high school. The teacher said that Stropping the chisel would successively bend the burr back and forth in order to weaken it and break it off. Seems that ultrasonic cleaning takes to to the next level!

Not convinced. I suppose if you are sharpening for someone who regularly abuses knives then the micro bevel makes sense but if the user is careful and uses the knife fore its intended purpose then just make the angle what it is.

The micro bevel makes more sense for woodworking tools where you are hand re-sharpening on a stone to freshen the edge between full honing so that you can get straight back to work quickly. This depends on work flow.

This would have effectively stopped me from wasting my time watching the video.

How on earth are they expected to ge clicks otherwise!

For some reason 5 of the 80 bits i sharpened seem to be sharpened the "wrong" way around. the cutting bevels wont even touch the material one is trying to drill. i have no idea what so ever why this happened or how its even possible. kinda hard to explain but see pictures. this one obv didnt cut at all.

This has no primary and the secondary bevel is at the wrong angle. This shows that the setup is wrong. It is tricky to get it right. Watching the video that Ken posted above

Here is a link:
https://youtu.be/fSUa1iFUzkM?si=RwoLv-P8RsGWep9L

Should help.

Here i can tell the secondary bevel was not ground far enough.

It looks to be that is is ground too far. The picture you posted in your second post is spot on.

The DBS-22 is one of those jigs you have to get exactly right.

Shun Fuji have a SG2 core, which can be tempered to a high hardness

It appears that SG2 is also a "powdered" steel which is interesting. The claim is that it is "easy to sharpen" so it should fine with silicon carbide (the Tormek SG wheel) which would be convenient.

If you are getting glazing on you SG you may need to use something harder like the SB, CBN or diamond.

I have a powered metal chisel from Veritas and although I can sharpen it with the SG wheel it is slower and more problematic than my carbon steel chisels.

I found the Norton 3X grinding wheels.

The 3X are still aluminium oxide (actually ceramic which is why they are so durable). If you are grinding HSS you need silicon carbide (SB) or harder. So your options are silicon carbide, CBN or diamond.

Another method is to use a small square. If you are establishing the bevel then the marker method may not work. I have a small "double square" that I use and as I go along I use it to ensure that the edge I am creating is square and adjust accordingly. When you re-sharpen you can use the marker method since you know that the primary bevel is good.

Another point is to make sure that the chisel or plane iron is hard up against the stop as you tighten. I have fond that it is easy to slip ever so slightly as you tighten the jig down.

The Vertias (especially the PM-V11), Lie Nielson and Narex Richter series are all excellent steel but it seems that the Narex Richter series are the best value for money. Don't get the regular Narex, make sure you get the Richter.

As for sharpening they are all a problem for your regular SG so you may need an SB Dia or CBN.

I wasn't imagining things

The burr is created by the plastic deformation of the steel. The amount of deformation (size of the burr) depends on a number of factors. The plasticity of the metal, (cheaper knives are more ductile), the sharpness of the grit, a freshly trued stone wheel will produce a smaller burr, and sharpening away from the edge will produce a larger burr since the metal is being dragged towards the edge. How hard you press the tool into the wheel will also impact the burr.

You burr is a combination of softer steel, pressure on the tool, and the direction of the sharpening. If the tools have been sharpened on a regular bench grinder they they may have list their temper due to heat. Otherwise make sure you sharpen with the wheel running towards the tool, make sue the final passes are on a sharp wheel, and use very light pressure on the final passes.