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I found the Norton 3X grinding wheels.

The 3X are still aluminium oxide (actually ceramic which is why they are so durable). If you are grinding HSS you need silicon carbide (SB) or harder. So your options are silicon carbide, CBN or diamond.

Another method is to use a small square. If you are establishing the bevel then the marker method may not work. I have a small "double square" that I use and as I go along I use it to ensure that the edge I am creating is square and adjust accordingly. When you re-sharpen you can use the marker method since you know that the primary bevel is good.

Another point is to make sure that the chisel or plane iron is hard up against the stop as you tighten. I have fond that it is easy to slip ever so slightly as you tighten the jig down.

The Vertias (especially the PM-V11), Lie Nielson and Narex Richter series are all excellent steel but it seems that the Narex Richter series are the best value for money. Don't get the regular Narex, make sure you get the Richter.

As for sharpening they are all a problem for your regular SG so you may need an SB Dia or CBN.

I wasn't imagining things

The burr is created by the plastic deformation of the steel. The amount of deformation (size of the burr) depends on a number of factors. The plasticity of the metal, (cheaper knives are more ductile), the sharpness of the grit, a freshly trued stone wheel will produce a smaller burr, and sharpening away from the edge will produce a larger burr since the metal is being dragged towards the edge. How hard you press the tool into the wheel will also impact the burr.

You burr is a combination of softer steel, pressure on the tool, and the direction of the sharpening. If the tools have been sharpened on a regular bench grinder they they may have list their temper due to heat. Otherwise make sure you sharpen with the wheel running towards the tool, make sue the final passes are on a sharp wheel, and use very light pressure on the final passes.

isn't the item circled in red a part of the SVD-185 that was supposed to allow for sharpening of cutter heads

Yes it is.

will the oil contaminate my other wheels

No. That is simply the active ingredient in the additive. Like Ken I rinse mine but still sometimes
 get that residue.

I wonder with Murphy being ever present, if in a pinch I could use the Trend with my T8 diamond wheel

I would definitely not. I would stick to the ACC. I just use water on my diamond plates and dry them after use, but there is no reason not to go the other way and use the ACC mixture (diluted, not full strength) on the diamond plates.

Quite correct. The DBS-22 will not do larger bits. You may able to do them free hand.

I think that the Tormek drill sharpening attachment DBS-22 should be able to sharpen them. That drill appears to be a "glass" drill bit which is similar to a masonry drill bit bit with a single facet. The masonry drill usually has a double facet.

You will need to experiment with the jig to get the angles correct but once you get it set up it should be much easier to set it up again.

If the tip is tungsten carbide (as it appears to be) then you will need to use the black wheel, CBN or diamond since the SG wheel is too soft for tungsten carbide.

I have been thinking about trying to sharpen my masonry bits but have not gotten around to it yet.

Also (again I think too much sometimes) Bazz from Findon Sharpening does strop from the SJ but he hand strops on a leather strop with a quality green compound and that does give him a slightly better edge than straight off the SJ.

I think the reason that Baz gets such a good edge with green compound on a hand strop is that the green is finer than the SJ and perfect for refining the edge. So if you do strop then it makes sense to use something finer than the wheel, which the Tormek compound is not.

what practical impact would it have on sharpness

It will be more durable and will be sharper but for your purpose 1000 should be plenty sharp enough. No reason to not get the DE but it is not *essential*.

I personally recommend the DF-200 (600G) diamond stone

Agree completely. If you are simply re-sharpening then the DF will get you back to sharp in no time. If you do need to remove damage then use the SG.

I believe it gives a finer hone

Yes, this is the benefit of leather. You can hone as fine as you want so if you need a really k3en edge leather is better. The composite wheel is faster and more convenient though.

About half way through I thought "I wonder how sharp the knives are from this national sharpener" then he started talking bout "every 2 weeks". I am guessing that they are doing  a quick run over a relatively coarse belt then hone which would certainly need re-doing every 2 weeks. Interesting to see someone look at what they deliver back to the customer.

Whenever I use it, I always watch Alan's video first to refresh my skill.

Yes. Alan is an excellent tutor. I will have to keep that one handy

The procedure is quite complex and has to be followed by the letter. Your best plan is to watch the Tormek Innovation video on the subject linked below.

https://www.youtube.com/live/kUrJOQryFEg?si=CqMU4fK2CTnvs_-M